Overview
Tutorial for a ribbed “mohair” beanie (made with cotton + alpaca silk) using a tapered-row technique for a smoother crown and better fit.
Materials and Tools
- Yarn: Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton, worsted weight (4), 100% cotton.
- Yarn: Drops Alpaca Silk (used as “mohair”), worsted weight.
- Hook: 4 mm (smaller to compress fuzz and meet gauge).
- Notes: Work both strands together; keep even tension; mohair can creep and tangle.
Design and Technique Changes
- Previous method: Rectangle with stitch change (half double to single) caused a subtle crown ring.
- New method: Short rows that grow, tapering the crown smoothly; improved fit and look.
Pattern Structure
- Stitches used: Single crochet (SC), slip stitch (SL ST).
- Rows worked: Back loop only (BLO) on SCs, except first SC after turn goes through both loops of the slip stitch.
- Construction: Rows begin short and extend by 2 stitches per increase row, anchored into foundation chain, forming tapered wedges.
- Repeats: 10-row pattern (counting the foundation chain as a row) repeated 7 times; last repeat ends 2 rows early to finish at crown.
Initial Setup and Gauge Cues
- Foundation chain: 44 chains (43 + 1 turning), approx. 11 in / 28 cm tall.
- Work first row into back bumps for a clean seaming edge.
- Keep grabbing both strands in every stitch to avoid uneven fabric.
10-Row Repeat Details
- Work sequence grows by 2 stitches each “increase” pass, then return.
- Always:
- At the long-edge end: Work SC into next unused chain bump(s), then SL ST into next chain bump, turn; first SC goes through both loops of the SL ST; remaining SCs BLO down the row.
- At the short-edge return: Chain 1, turn, BLO SC back to start.
Pattern Growth Example (first full set)
- Row set targets: 34 SC + SL ST; return
- Then: 36 SC + SL ST; return
- Then: 38 SC + SL ST; return
- Then: 40 SC + SL ST; return
- Then: 42 SC + SL ST; return
- Return completes 10 rows (including the original chain row).
Repeat Count and Dimensions
- Repeats completed: 7 pattern repeats.
- Final adjustment: Stop with 2 rows left so the working tail ends at the crown for closing.
- Flat width before seaming (folded bottom measured): ~19.5 in / 49–50 cm.
Seaming and Finishing
- Cut sewing length: About 2Ă— hat height plus a little extra; fasten off.
- Seam method: Mattress-style through the outer legs of the V on each side (right leg on right panel, left leg on left panel) for an invisible seam on both sides.
- Crown close: Weave sewing tail in and out around the top opening, return to starting tail, pull tight, knot securely (tie multiple times).
- Weave in any additional ends (e.g., new skein joins) on the wrong side.
- Turn right side out, fold brim once.
Practical Notes and Tips
- Cotton + alpaca silk choice: Aims for everyday comfort without overheating or itch; wool is optional if warmer.
- Time to make: About 4 hours.
- Tension tip: Keep both strands aligned; mohair may creep—straighten and pull evenly.
Pattern Summary Table
| Step | Target SC Count (BLO unless noted) | Edge Action at Chain Side | Return Setup | Notes |
|---|
| Start | Chain 44 (43 + 1 turning) | Work into back bumps | — | Chain row counted as a row |
| 1 | 34 SC into back bumps | SL ST in next chain bump | Turn; first SC through both loops of SL ST, then BLO to end | No extra turning chain here |
| 2 | Chain 1; BLO SC back | — | Turn | Short return row |
| 3 | 36 SC total (last SC into next unused chain bump) | SL ST next chain bump | Turn; first SC both loops, then BLO | Grows by 2 |
| 4 | Chain 1; BLO SC back | — | Turn | Short return row |
| 5 | 38 SC total | SL ST next chain bump | Turn; first SC both loops, then BLO | Grows by 2 |
| 6 | Chain 1; BLO SC back | — | Turn | — |
| 7 | 40 SC total | SL ST next chain bump | Turn; first SC both loops, then BLO | Grows by 2 |
| 8 | Chain 1; BLO SC back | — | Turn | — |
| 9 | 42 SC total | SL ST next chain bump | Turn; first SC both loops, then BLO | Reaches height |
| 10 | Chain 1; BLO SC back | — | Turn | Completes 10-row set |
Decisions
- Adopt tapered short-row technique for a seamless crown transition.
- Use cotton + alpaca silk blend for breathable, itch-free daily wear.
- End final repeat two rows early to finish at the crown for easier closure.