De Niro Wallet Presentation Notes

Jul 12, 2024

De Niro Wallet Presentation

Overview

  • Best-selling wallet: De Niro Wallet
  • Key feature: Stacked pockets (or tea pockets)
  • Design variants:
    • De Niro Wallet: Larger with multiple pockets
    • Byron Wallet: Smaller with 4 pockets
    • Byron 8.0 Wallet: Intermediate, with 8 pockets

What We Will Do Today

  • Make a Byron 8.0 Wallet
  • Learn a few tricks:
    • Stitching that splits and continues separately
    • Making tea pockets without them being too bulky

Materials and Tools

  • Key components: Inside body, back, tea pockets
  • Materials: Horween leather (5-6 ounce Horween Dublin), Herman Oak
  • Tools: Bump jig, pattern weights, skiving knife, bell skiver (electric), leather rougher, dividers, stitching pony, beveling tools

Steps and Tips

Cutting and Preparing Leather

  • Cut pieces: Inside body, back, individual tea pockets
  • Label parts: Mark top and bottom of pockets
  • Aesthetic preparation: Use good quality tools for precision cuts

Skiving Leather

  • Old school method: Using a skiving knife
    • Must be extremely sharp
    • Feather down from thick to thin
  • Electric method: Using a bell skiver
    • Faster with consistent results

Edge Preparation

  • Tips for dyeing edges:
    • Dye inside corners of tea pockets first
    • Avoid dyeing Herman Oak excessively
    • Bevel and burnish edges for a polished look

Stitching Process

  • Prepare for stitching:
    • Use dividers to mark stitch lines
    • Utilize bump jig for precise alignment
    • Place stitching holes accurately
  • Magic split stitch:
    • Create stitching that splits at specific points for aesthetic design
    • Double-punch holes for shared stitches

Gluing and Assembling

  • Gluing tips:
    • Scuff areas that will be glued
    • Use binder clips to hold pieces in place while glue sets
  • Special care:
    • Ensure alignment and consistent pressure when gluing

Final Assembly and Finishing

  • Attach back piece: Fold and mark for perfect fit
  • Stitch all around: Start from marked points, use shared holes effectively
  • Bevel, dye, and burnish: Make final touch-ups to edges for a polished look

Tips and Bonus Tricks

  • Golf towels: Use hooks under workbench for convenience
  • Burn threads: On the front side for a cleaner look inside
  • Measure without measuring: Use visual alignment instead of rulers

Conclusion

  • Finished product: Polished Byron 8.0 Wallet
  • Multiple stitch runs required for complex designs
  • Encouragement to keep practicing and refining techniques