Transcript for:
De Niro Wallet Presentation Notes

this is the de niro wallet this is by far the best selling wallet that i make and i think it's because of these pockets right here these are called stacked pockets or tea pockets everyone likes these pockets this is a huge wallet what i did because of this was design this byron wallet which also has a couple of stacked pockets much smaller but there's only four pockets in this so what i've done because i love designing is i've created kind of a middle man this is the byron 8.0 because there's eight pockets so what we're going to do today and make one of these and i'm going to show you a couple of tricks first of all you see how this stitching comes around which is pretty normal except for right here it splits comes around this side and this side i'm going to show you how to do that also this stitching looks pretty normal coming through here but it actually stops right there but keeps going through here so i'm going to show you how to do that and i'm also going to show you how to make these tee pockets and what the secret is behind not making them so huge all right we're not trying to do a warrant piece length video here so i'm going to get through some of the redundant parts pretty quick if you want more in-depth coverage on some of the parts i've probably already got a video on the channel for them like hand stitching tool explanations and etc and i will drop some links down in the description all right so we've got the name inside body the back and the pockets so these are the two pockets that's what they look like and then when you stack them all together this whole section will look like that front and back let's get all this cut out maybe something like that but we also need to go over and grab some herman oak for these two pockets here this is just for aesthetics you know it's gotta look pretty right these are pattern weights there's a link down in the description to get yourself a couple of those that's horween five five six ounce horween dublin that is not mayonnaise i'll be doing a video coming up soon about what that is i also use that on my edges so stay tuned subscribe okay i made a little mistake earlier because two of those t-pockets are actually coming over here so we don't need as many as i had before and you'll notice some of these are marked top and bottom the top is a little bit one millimeter shorter for the stitching to work out so we know these harmonics are not the top so we're going to put some bot bottom and of course we don't all have clicker presses so i'm gonna show you i've showed it before there's another video explaining all this let me show you how to do that real quick just take your bump jig set it there pattern or other piece same thing whichever look we're almost there almost as easy as the clicker oh hold on gotta put that corner hold on i mean that curve there you go no clicker press bonus tip golf towels put a hook under your workbench perfect d pockets okay so you're gonna have these three pockets these three pockets and then a bottom the problem when you use five six ounce thicker leather is that ends up getting to be a little thick so what you need to do is skive or split the leather let me show you two different ways let's go old school with the skivving knife first and then i'll show you the bell skyvert with some electricity in order for this skiving knife to work it has to be really really sharp so sharpen and strop very well and what we want we want the top to stay the same because we just want that to be feathered from that thickness down to really thin all right let's take our super duper sharp knife and that is skiving by hand so you get the idea feather this down huh [Music] let's try it with some electricity [Applause] sharp [Applause] again that's sharp [Applause] [Applause] this is what we took off doesn't seem like much that's six pieces so that's the original thickness but then it goes down to that of course only three are on each side but when you're looking at that thick down to that thick it does make a difference all right time to quit messing around let's get this show on the road bonus tip if you're going to dye your edges and you're doing tea pockets die in that corner right there because that'll darken it up and you won't see it when you start stacking them it's hard to see huh but you'll see it if it's not dyed it'll look like white so turn that white die if you dye the rest of it next bonus tip if you're going to dye your edges don't dye your herman oak except for these tiny tiny tiny but do that later don't forget to burnish those sexy edges and also don't forget get that logo on there so here's where we are these pockets these pockets we put these pockets on this piece so i'm gonna shoot to have this top pocket stop right there so i'll mark it i'm gonna do the right side show you everything how to put all the pockets in stitch it finish it and everything the left side you could just pretend like we did it twice but first these two insides were to finish these two edges just like they're on the outside they're floating they're not glued so i gotta do these edges right here bevel die burnish then we'll start putting everything together and i'll show you all the tricks be very very careful with this armor note it'll suck that dye in like a sponge okay we need these three pockets four if you count that one but when your card goes in you want it to stop so we do these three stitch lines on these three pockets card stops you just take your dividers and whatever you would do on your edge for your stitch line then take our main body piece top terminal bottom and get one of our bump jigs and let's get this thing going so just start at the bottom with your bottom pocket get your first pocket down here having this corner bump jig helps you could push right up against it so that's where you want it there's your pocket there's your line and you're gonna need some stitching right there keep that there get your second pocket line it up like so pull that out now you're ready for this bucket same thing line it up pull it out now you're ready to stitch we're gonna stitch this top one first just put your needles in there to hold it since it is floating then you could put it into your stitching pony all right how are we looking bonus tip burn these on the front because some nut job we'll look inside this wallet and see these even though they're deep but you'd rather have your burns hidden all right let's go all right we gotta glue these pieces down um what the hell anyhow remember we got our mark right here we're scuffed that up with a leather rougher my son makes these link in the description now where to stop the glue in the scuff put a jig right here to hold that piece there we're going to go right to where this curve starts to come up so you know and right around there so glue glue the backside of these so scuff these and scuff around here on the back side of this and get to gluing all right all glued up from here around here these are still flapping in the wind just need to get those straight bump jig helps with that mask on a zb anvil link in the description japanese cutting mat rocky mountain leather i cut this one to size all right we're just going to put some stitching holes in here just like we normally would and go just with your holes can keep going all the way around one of these holes is going to be the secret to that stitch we're gonna rent some space and share a spot i'll show you remember tolstoy has the rights to anything long like warren p so there's that stitched we're gonna come down to here to here or one of these last two holes here and just stop and turn around backstitch and then we'll pick up later with the rest the inside will look like one complete stitch run the back side will look like i showed earlier and through the magicka tv i just saved you a few hours i've got these beveled dyed burnished glued on stitched and that's how it looks on the back so now we're going to come through here and we're going to show you how to do that magic little stitch split it comes one way goes the other way let's do it first thing let's put some corners on here just a quick easy simple arc punch next thing we need is this pinstriping stitch line pinstriping because it's really just for looks so let's let's put that here all right so our magic split is here and on the pattern i've got it here four holes up one two three four so what we're gonna do i've just pressed in four holes up make a mark so we're gonna start our magic right there one two three four and right there and we're gonna stitch between here and here for the front and of course get this edge looking pretty and sexy now when we're beveling the back here this is going to be attached to the back side so start your bevel in the back where that loop is going to be that's where the magic starts hole four and through the magic of film i have saved you another hour of your life beveled dyed burnished and stitched now let's put the back on one of the questions i get a lot is how to measure this back piece so that it folds it doesn't fold well as we know i've said before i don't measure unless i'm making patterns so i'm not making a pattern so i'm not measuring just take your back piece we'll make this simple put it on there like that that's how the wall is going to be when you're done fold it over like that so that's what you need when you're done just mark it [Music] right there then get olivia out of the way get your bump jig square a sharp implement of some sort put it on that line and there you go yeah we're not measuring we're making this easy now we got to get this on here of course it's longer to accommodate for that fold so just use your bump jig to mark where you're going to glue where are we right there just bump that up there to the end you're going to glue it right there you're gonna glue to right remember our fourth hole we're gonna glue it right there and just do the same on this side you're gonna glue to right there and you're gonna glue to our fourth hole piece of cake just scuff that up figuring out the back scuff is a whole lot easier because you've already got your stitching just go to your stitching like that bonus tip number 847 we know that this fourth hole is going to loop over here and we know over here it's gonna do the same and we need that to be sexy and pretty and beveled and burnished and dyed so we could actually go ahead and get that done right now film magic again got that done all sexy and pretty and shiny now let's glue that on just glue one side binder clips clip it fold it glue the other side and then we'll get to our magic all right i gotta ask are we having fun yep having a blast now just clip these little corners this one up here right up to our magic spot huh how pretty now the other side now we're going to stitch from this shared rental spot hole through here to our magic spot back here around back here one full stitch run around the outside let's just mark those all right we have four holes that are going to be shared so those four holes have to be punched twice already punched now now we gotta punch again so just be careful remember there's thread already in these holes so you don't want to cut that thread but you need to borrow that space and it's got to go through so just bite the bullet and do it so now those one two three four so now just keep on punching all right we're getting a little tricky here in our magic spot so this hole goes through shares that hole and that stitch run needs to come through here so just put a needle in there you can see where it goes take your punch mark where the next hole goes then bend this back as well as you can and keep on punching and that's how it looks holes done i didn't mess it up too bad holes all the way around the outside now we'll start stitching come around to our magic hole and actually you know what i'm going to do because that loops over that stitching we got to get these edges done first so let me get that done and edges done let's get this stitched we'll start right here come around here and get back with me in a second real quick this is where we started through here it's pretty simple we already got the hole you just go back one or two back stitch and then keep going so here we go like i said before i've already got a video done all on hand stitching so if you want to see more of this in detail and explained head over to the channel it's over there and here we go remember we're up we've stitched from the bottom all the way around remember our fourth hole one two three four this is where we're gonna split so loop over for your top loop this is where it's gonna get a little tricky left needle goes into the right side like normal normally i wouldn't pull this all the way tight but to show you how to do it so that would go that way now here's where this comes in your right needle goes into the back left side but instead of coming through out this way come through inside and pull it through so you have your loop and you have your loop but now your two threads are back here now we can continue on this back side with these two pretty sneaky huh all right meet me on the other end okay we've bridged the gap we've come here now we're getting ready to go into our fourth hole our sharing hole this back needle and thread will go into the fourth hole through the back the back will come through all the way to the front see that so it's going to be a little tricky but we can get it so pull the back through all the way your right side is still inside so it needs to stay inside through the back don't pierce your thread just make it work okay so now you're done through there now you just do your loop over like so and then keep on stitching these will go through obviously both sides and boom we got it now we just go on like normal let's button this baby up well did we do it or did we do it i think we did it uh i am rich and if anyone was counting there are ten separate stitch runs one two three four five six seven but either way we got it done you ready to get back to work i'm talking to you hey all right couple more minutes