what is going on guys i'm consumer attack review and today we're going to be doing a modding guide of the royal clutch rk84 if at any point during the video you want to check out the rk84 or any of the stuff that we're going to use to mod it you can click right over here and check out all of that but let's go through all of this stuff before we get into the actual modding all right so right away what you're going to need to mod it is your royal clutch rk84 this one is white and in completely stock form i then use a self-healing board which is just so i don't cut my desk i then use dielectric grease and crytox 205 grade zero remember you can check all this stuff out over there if you don't know where to get it i then use some micro plastic cutters just a basic paint brush a basic screwdriver you don't need anything fancy an x-acto knife a key count puller and switch puller you don't need to use a nice one like this but it does help some medical tape and then some typical painters tape then beyond that i am using a custom coiled cable you can obviously run yours wireless if you want to but i'm not going to do that this one is from ltc then for keycaps i'm using these echo black and pink asa profile these are going to be really cool we're kind of going for a black and pink vibe here and we're also using echo for the switches i've been wanting to use these switches these are the akko vintage white switches and then i'm using the kikron wooden wrist rest this is really nice you can get it from glorious they have a similar one but i do like this one for this build and then the last thing you're gonna need is some eva foam this is just a 1 16 inch eva foam it's like a buck with all that out of the way let's get to modding all right first thing to do is grab your keyboard take off your skirt and set this aside then you're going to take your key cap puller and just start pulling off those key caps but you know if these actually come off really easily on the sides i can actually just use my hands the stock keycaps are not the best all right once you have all of those off let's move those to the side now we just take off the switches if you don't know how to do it you just take your switch puller either this one or this one you just go in from the top you kind of pinch it and pull it out it's very easy and you can do it pretty quickly all right now that we got all of the switches off it's basically just the bare bones board at this point now we're gonna work on modding these stabilizers all right so to start modding this you're gonna grab your medical tape right here and basically the idea is we pop these stabilizers out all you have to do for that is there is you can see those little pins right there you're going to press those in and then it'll kind of come up like that do that on both sides and then you kind of just pull it out like that very easy so the idea with the medical tape is we're going to cut it to the size of this so when the stabilizer actually hits down it's going to hit on the medical tape not just the pcb alright so take out all of your stabilizers and then get your tape out and i forgot to mention you should probably use scissors here but i have micro cutters so we're going to see if those work surprisingly they actually work well and then what you're going to do this one's actually kind of small once you have a piece about that big you're going to take it with your tweezers just like that and then you're going to put it on the place where the stabilizer is going to hit the pcb so that it hits this instead of the pcb and then you just lay it down in that spot and kind of pat it down and it should look something like that now what you're gonna do after that is take your dielectric grease and that brush open up your dielectric grease dab it into the paintbrush just a little bit you really don't need much here and then you're going to take your board with that medical tape on there and you're going to kind of dab it with the dielectric grease you don't need a whole lot here you just needed to cover it a little bit and change the color of the medical tape once that's all done rinse and repeat for all of them and grab yourself just a little bit of toilet paper we're going to need that later on now we're going to disassemble all of our stabilizers the way that you do this is first grab them pull up at a 90 degree angle you'll hear a slight snap and then you're just gonna pull out and that's how you disassemble them and then this part will come out the bottom and then rinse and repeat for all of them now they're all disassembled we're gonna clean them off now to get the best results you should wash them and let them dry however i'm always lazy and i just wipe them off with a little bit of toilet paper to go through and just wipe them off with some toilet paper or whatever you have paper towels i find that thinner works better especially for the next part that we're gonna do now to clean these small pieces right here i take a tweezer grab some toilet paper with the tweezer and then kind of force it through the two holes that meet up and just kind of clean everything off inside of that hole that's the main important part as well as the two sides right there and right there so kind of just force it through that hole and then through the other hole once all of those are wiped off we're actually going to clip our stabilizers so right here there are four little feet on the bottom but this foot right here the ones opposite each other that protrude and they go further down slightly than everything else we're actually gonna clip those off so get your plastic cutters and you're gonna go over the top because you want to get the full top portion you can see how that one protrudes over the top a little bit so you're gonna take this your plastic cutter and you're gonna clip it so that it's flat on top and then do that for the other edge as well and then as you can see it should look something like that with a flat base as you can see right here is flat so just rinse and repeat that for all of them all right now that they're cleaned and clipped we're gonna do the holy mod now if you don't know what that is it's okay this will be the most tedious part of modding your stabilizers but it's absolutely worth it and it's easy to do it just takes some time all right so you're gonna take your clipped portion right here and there is one side with two holes as you can see right there and then on the other side there's one hole that has kind of a slant to it it might be hard to see but as you can see this side has the slanted side with one hole and then on the other side there are two holes now the goal here is we're gonna take some medical tape and we're gonna cut it to the width of these holes so we want it to be about that long but the width is the thing that really matters we want it to be about just that wide so we're gonna take our medical tape get our scissors and then just see if we can cut the whip now as you can see this one that i cut is absolutely way too thin it takes a little bit of time to get this right but it's important that you do once you have a piece that you're happy with then cut it off then take your tweezers and put it on one of the ends just like this it's just stuck to one of the ends right there and then what you're going to do is you're going to take your clipped part of your stabilizer go in from that one hole right there with the sticky side facing up towards the top of the stabilizer and you're just going to fit it through that hole and it'll come out the other side just like that then what you're going to do is use your finger to get it off of your tweezer and you want that to match up perfectly with the angled side so bring it down and then kind of use your tweezer to then press it in then move to the other side with two holes and again you want to press it in and stick it to the top now once the tape is nice and stuck to the angle part as well as the flat part with the two holes you're then going to cut it off with a little bit left just about there and then you're gonna fold it over into that second hole just to keep it in place a little bit better and then you're just gonna press it down and stick it nice this is just to make sure that it stays while it's on your keyboard once you've finished that one just rinse and repeat for all of them now this can't take some time so take your time while doing it it's well worth it all right now that we've got all of those finished we're going to focus on lubing now take some of your crytox 205 grade zero and a little paint brush and all you're going to do is you're going to take your stabilizer housing and you want to just lube the inside of these left and right walls right here so on this side right there and on the other side right there so you want to coat this part pretty generously and just do this for all of the housings all right after you finish that part you're gonna take the clipped part of the stabilizer and put just a little bit of lube on the left and the right walls and then you wanna take your stabilizer housing aim it towards the front with the entrance and match it up with the two-hole section of the now clipped part of your stabilizer and then insert it that way the two holes should be facing the opening and that's how it goes in and then do that for all of them now that all of those are finished we're gonna take our little bars right here we're gonna open up our dielectric grease and then you're just going to insert these into the dielectric grease a little bit past that 90 degree point because there are contact points right there so you want to do it just about like that do that for both sides and then we're going to insert it back inside how you're going to do this is have it 90 degrees to the opening put it in the bottom hole slip it all the way through this will be harder because we did the holy mod once it's all the way through you're then going to bend it 90 degrees down and you'll hear a little click and then do that for all of them all right now that we have all the stabilizers done we're going to go ahead and put all of those back into it and just clip them back in just like you took them out just the opposite all right now that we've finished with the stabilizers we're gonna go ahead and unscrew this and start modding the case and put some foam in there so all you gotta do is unscrew the one two three four five six screws now that we have all of those unscrewed we're gonna pull this out gently and do be careful uh because we do have to detach the battery so first right here as you can see we have the battery right there as well as the main function right there so first we're gonna disconnect the battery make sure the keyboard is off all right once you have the pcb off of the case it is a little bit harder to get the battery off than the actual keyboard function so do make sure to be careful with that but after that's all off we have the battery right here and then we have the usbc and the two usb type a's right there so you do wanna make sure to keep those in there uh because we are gonna cover those up as well as making sure that we're gonna leave room for these two right here all right so get your eva foam out now you could draw around this but we're just gonna do a rough cut of this thing so basically get the width right there all right now once your rough outline is and again you can see this is very rough because we're gonna have to do a lot of modifying to this one all right so number one i'm just gonna bend these down a little bit and in fact i'm gonna disconnect this one since it's so easy to and put that aside now what we can see that this needs a little bit of cutting along the top and that is pretty much perfect now at this point get out your exacto knife and you're gonna start cutting this out so we can see first we need to do the standoffs right there there is one right there which we're literally just going to cut on the board now that one pops through one right here that one's good make sure you don't cut the wires as well uh we have one here at the bottom we have another one over here on the other side one here at the top and then one here at the bottom there we go so those are most of these sections cut out nicely however there is gonna be a little bit more cutting going on so number one we're gonna have to cut out this right there now i don't wanna do this on the board because i think that would be pretty dangerous so it's about right there we're gonna take this off we have to cut a hole big enough for the this end to go through so we're gonna cut this like that that should be enough so that this can come up through it just like that and that should fit through quite nicely now we also have to do the same thing over on this side for the usbc which is coming about right here so we're gonna go ahead and cut that as well now beyond that we're gonna have to do some finagling but i'm gonna try to fit it in just like that so let's reconnect the wire okay so with the wire reconnected we're just gonna fit those through the holes first just like that another one through there and then we're gonna fit it over the screw holes this might take a little bit of time but don't worry about it just enjoy the process once that fits down there we have kind of some raised parts right here but first we're actually just gonna try it with the pcb uh to see if it fits or not and right away i think that'll probably work i might be wrong but i think it'll work all right now that we have all of the foam done here on the bottom we do have to make sure to cut out room for the on and off switch and the rgb switch which is about right here all right now that that's done grab your painters tape here and we're going to do the tape mod now we're only going to do one layer of tape because this is a fairly packed board already so we're going to take this and just go along the bottom all you're doing is changing the acoustics by putting some tape there it's a very basic mod but it definitely helps with sound and one of the things here is the on and off switch is right here so i am just going to cut that out after i get this on now that this is on we're just going to cut out that section and then cut out that section for the on and off switches right there and we can just put that there and then we're gonna go through and open up very carefully the holes where these standoffs are going to go now this should be fairly easy to do as you can see one's right there one's there at the bottom once you have a decent job done we're gonna reconnect all of the cables all right once all of those cables are connected i do urge you to try turning on the on switch and then see if it works and then we do have power there so that's a good sign so let's turn that back off and then we're gonna flip this around and line everything up and then screw it back together all right now we got the foam inside of it we got the tape mod on the back of it and we got our stabilizers modded now at this point we're ready for our switches now we are using echo vintage white switches however there is actually nothing in these because i lubed or actually hayley lubed the switches so we got all of ours fully lubed with crytox 205 grade zero here's a clip from my last video showing you how to loop a switch super fast first you're gonna need a switch opener and this is not a kale this is an mx style opener you're just gonna place it on that switch opener press down gently and then pull your switch apart now there's gonna be the stem right here the top housing the spring and then the bottom housing first what you're gonna do is get the stem put a little bit of lube on one side and then the other side put some on the front and then those sides and kind of just blend it all together now you can do this as scientifically as you want or not the thing that you want to do is just make sure that you have good consistency after you have that done we're going to flip this over and we're going to kind of swirl around the bottom right there all right now set that down grab your bottom housing right here and then we're going to put a little dab on the left side and then some on the right rails right there and we're gonna feather that in make sure that you don't have any white spots you don't want that in this once that's all feathered out i do do a little ring around there for the spring and then we're gonna do these two little leafs right here just like that then after that you're gonna get your spring and i'm gonna be quite generous with this you're just gonna go around the base this is okay if it's not feathered in so you're gonna go around the outside as well as the inside this will just get rid of any unnecessary pain after you have that done get your housing put the spring in there get your stem place it on the spring then get your top housing and just kind of put everything back together and then that is how you lube a mechanical switch super fast alright so here are all the lubed vintage whites they sound pretty good and they feel really smooth stock these are lubed i'm excited i'm very excited all right so let's get these on here they are three pins and they open these you will need a kale style opener let's get these all in here all right guys and we got all of the vintage white akko cs switches on the board very exciting okay so let's continue going with this now we take our skirt back right okay however for this build i'm going for a black and pink theme now with this being a white keyboard you could have just bought the white version however if you're going for a purple theme or an orange theme or green or whatever what you're gonna do is take this and spray paint this any color you want to that will match your build now i'm not going to show you how to do that because there's many other people on youtube just type in how to paint a keyboard the point is you don't have to use the full case you can just use this which is a big deal however i just so happen to have a black one of these it fits on exactly the same now what you see with this is from the front view when you're laying down your desk you won't be able to see anything but the skirt the white back plate you want that because it'll bounce the rgb but you basically won't see the color of the board except for this skirt when it's actually on the table so that's a really cool way to easily with only a little bit of painting uh change the way your keyboard looks so we're doing the black um but again you can spray paint yours whatever color you want all right now it's time to put on the keycaps this is where it gets really exciting taking these out echo always does a great job for a pretty good price i think these are like 60 bucks 55 60. and there we go uh you guys saw this if you're on the stream you saw it comment below if you're on the stream and you saw these keycaps on a different keyboard but you guys know we gotta use the pink space bar and we gotta use the pink arrow keys obviously all right guys now we got the keycaps on this thing is much heavier than before it looks amazing and you can see all the white is gone up until that point but you're never gonna see it like that even on your desk that is freaking amazing okay we're not done yet we're gonna take this away then we got the lcc cable this thing is pretty inexpensive i think it's like 40 bucks uh and you get a very high quality custom coiled aviator cable all right so let's plug this in the way i'm going to style this is we're going to plug it in right there and then now this has a longer as you can see it comes out pretty far here so the way that i've been styling this is i plug it in and it's not really kind of like that although you'll see on the b-roll shots i have it a little bit more perfectly and then we got the wooden wrist rest which i actually on second thought um i actually don't like anymore and i don't think we're gonna use this one i kind of had a feeling about that the glorious onyx one would definitely be better with this but i don't have it for a 75 percent keyboard so i will have to get that in the future however i think the board like this looks awesome okay but the moment of truth obviously with no pad on the desk and having a totally stock rk84 right here let's do the sound test before and after oh yes i really hope this is coming through on the mic the like that you hear when this thing hits is just [Applause] oh i really like these vintage whites they're definitely not as much of kind of a thawky they're definitely that clack i mean it's really and these are all with stock stabilizers we didn't put like any door rocks in here this thing is really good it's very tight like typewriter-esque i really do like it also the way it looks i just think it's so beautiful obviously on the desk this desk doesn't look as beautiful but in these b-roll shots you should be able to see uh just how cool this thing looks and well let's turn the rgb on right away we are definitely gonna have to change this to some different colors but ah guys this thing came out really good the vintage whites they are definitely not a switch for everyone but oh they are very nice uh it definitely is very typewriter-esque and yeah overall happy with the build it's nice and heavy it's definitely heavier than stock [Applause] it's poppy that's the word not clacky it's poppy this thing it is super poppy but very solid very solid but yeah again if you want to check out any of the stuff that i used to mod this keyboard you can check over in this corner right here to see all of the products or you can check below to amazon we have amazon links below as well this is a consumer tech review if you guys enjoyed this video edit helped you out i helped you out and throw a like below i also have a modding guide for the red dragon k552 the tequila phantom 87 and the royal clutch rk61 if you have any of those keyboards or want to just check out other modding videos that i've done definitely consider subscribing and checking out those videos as well this was super sick review and i'll see you guys in the next video