Bumper Guide to Vitamin C (Part 1)

Presented by: Michelle from Lab Muffin Beauty Science

Key Points

• Vitamin C in Skincare

  • Raved about due to substantial evidence backing its effects.
  • Vitamin C is commonly confusing due to different forms and products.

• Focus of the Video

  • Discussion on ascorbic acid, the most evidence-backed form of Vitamin C.
  • Explains the functionality, application, product types, and recommendations for ascorbic acid.

Benefits of Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid)

• Increase Collagen Production

  • Vitamin C is essential in collagen synthesis and cross-linking.
  • Important enzymes like prolyl and lysyl hydroxylase need Vitamin C.

• Wound Healing

  • Assists in wound healing post-treatments like fractional lasers.

• Pigment Reduction

  • Reduces pigmentation like sunspots, post-acne marks, and melasma.
  • Interferes with melanin production by affecting the enzyme tyrosinase.

• Protection from Sun Damage

  • Doesn't block UV rays but acts as an antioxidant to neutralize free radicals.
  • Studies show it can significantly increase UV protection when combined with Vitamin E and ferulic acid.

• Protection from Infrared Radiation and Pollutants

  • Helps mitigate damage from infrared radiation, ozone, and diesel exhaust.

How to Use Ascorbic Acid Products

• Concentration

  • Studies test at 3-25% concentrations; lower percentages can be effective and less irritating.
  • Start with <10% and adjust.

• Layering and Compatibility

  • Apply it close to bare skin after cleansing.
  • Avoid using with copper ions and benzoyl peroxide (they deactivate the acid).
  • Niacinamide is fine to use with Vitamin C.
  • Be cautious when combining with other irritants like hydroxy acids and retinoids.

• Application Time

  • Can be used day or night; morning use provides more UV protection.
  • Not photosensitizing; enhances UV resistance.

Challenges with Ascorbic Acid

• Stability Issues
  • Unstable and degrades to dehydroascorbic acid when exposed to water, high pH, light, and oxygen.
  • Breakdown manifests as color change and smell.

Products and Recommendations

• Skinceuticals C E Ferulic

  • The gold standard, well-researched, and effective yet pricey.
  • Alternatives: Timeless, Paula's Choice, Maelove, Geek, Gorgeous, and Ausceuticals.

• DIY Approach

  • Holy Snails provides a tutorial on recreating similar formulations.
  • There's a blog post with a complex DIY recipe for those interested.

• Other Forms and Packaging

  • Airtight packaging, colloidal gold formulations, water-free ascorbic acid, microneedle patches for stability and effectiveness.

Special Note on DIY and Powder Form Products

• DIY Vitamin C Serums

  • Freshly made serums with simple formulations can show good results.
  • Avoid extensive modifications and ensure proper preservation.

• Pre-Mixed Powders and Water-Free Bases

  • Products like drunk elephant allow mixing just before application; avoid inconsistent dosing.
  • Water-free formulations (e.g., silicone-based) offer high stability but might irritate.

Products Mentioned

• Formulated Ascorbic Acid: Ultraceuticals Ultra C23, L'Oreal Revitalift 10%, The Ordinary, Paula's Choice.
• Special Tech: Naturium, Murad (colloidal gold-based products)
• Microneedle Patches: Acropass Spot Eraser, ZitSticka Hyperfade

Conclusion

• Continuous experimentation and mindful application can lead to beneficial results.
• Part 2 will cover Vitamin C derivatives for those who can't handle ascorbic acid.

---

• Subscribe and Follow: For more detailed insights and updates. Check out the blog for additional resources.