Clothing in the Middle Ages

Introduction

• The Middle Ages span from the 5th to the 15th century in Europe.
• It is divided into two phases: Early Middle Ages (5th to 10th century) and Late Middle Ages (11th to 15th century).

Historical Context

• Feudalism develops: political and social system of the era.
  • Vassals or serfs: Worked the lands of the lords in exchange for protection.
  • Lords or nobles: Owned the lands and had power over the serfs.
• The Church had great power, and its influence grew over time.
• Social classes:
  • Clergy: Privileged group.
  • Guilds (artisans, masters) and bourgeoisie: Middle class.
  • Military: Well regarded.

General Clothing

• Byzantine influence at the start and differentiation by sex at the end of the Middle Ages.
• Layering of clothes.
• Fabrics: Wool, silk, linen, and fur.
  • Lower classes: Wool and lower-quality linen.
  • Upper classes: Silks and higher-quality fabrics.
• Colors: Variety. Lower classes used natural colors due to lack of resources for dyeing.

Women's Garments

Underwear

• Braies: Covered up to the waist or thigh.
• Shirt: Covered arms and reached ankles.
• Cos: Similar to a bodice, sometimes with sleeves.
• Faldeta: Placed under outer garments.

Outer Garments

• Salla: Similar to a tunic, fitted at the waist and chest.
• Briel or Corded Salla: Similar to the salla, but longer.
• Gonete: Type of jacket, tight, and of bright colors.
• Peyote: Tunic with side openings.
• Aljuba: Similar to the salla, but wider.
• Habit: Long and loose suit, used by the clergy and in mourning.
• Mojil: Similar to the habit, but with more flare.

Outerwear

• Garnacha: Long and loose.
• Tabard: With openings for the arms.
• Cape and cloak: Similar, the cape fastens with brooches, and the cloak is more versatile.
• Jopa: Luxury garment, fur-lined.
• Loba: Garment of authority, sleeveless.

Men's Garments

Underwear

• Breeches and Hose: Tight, covered from waist to feet.
• Shirt: Similar to the women's, but knee-length.

Outer Garments

• Doublet: Covered the torso, sometimes with sleeves.
• Brial: Shorter and with embroidery.
• Gonela or Salla: Short tunic, with a leather belt.

Upper Garments

• Isallo: Tight tunic, with openings for riding.
• Aljuba or Cote: Similar to the salla, wide and loose.
• Peyote: With side openings.
• Garnacha and Tabard: Long coats with features like arm openings.
• Jacket: Tight-fitting, sometimes padded.
• Sayuelo: Short and military.
• Pellison: With a front opening and short sleeves.

Outerwear

• Cape and Cloak: Similar to women's.
• Paletoque/Cape: Two cloths joined at the shoulders.
• Gabán: Loose, with a hood and wide sleeves.

Accessories

• Importance of footwear and headgear, especially representative of the era.
• Exercise: Create a visual summary of footwear, hats, and headgear.

Conclusion

• The class provides a framework to understand Middle Ages garments.
• Importance of creating visual summaries to better understand the history of fashion.