hey everyone we are back with our standard aesthetics my ladybook and we are still working on a lot of these chapters i hope you guys are finding these videos helpful we are going to continue with our chapter five which is going over skin analysis all right well let's not waste any time and let's begin explain the process of skin analysis being knowledgeable about skin types and conditions is one of the most important competencies for a skin care professional this interaction with a client sets you up as a skin care expert the recommendation for the appropriate skin care treatments and products must be uniquely adapted to each person the skin analysis is determining factor in deciding what products to use during the service and what products to recommend for home care use the skin analysis also confirms whether the client is an appropriate candidate for the treatment estheticians should study and have a thorough understanding of skin analysis because before performing service or selecting products an individual's skin type and condition must be analyzed correctly to determine the appropriate treatment and products a thorough skin analysis in client consultation is especially important to determine the cause of skin condition and any contraindications to treatment and product that the client may have using a holistic approach identifying healthy habits and behavior is detrimental to skin health will give you a better understanding of how to help your clients remember our goal is to treat everyone for their skin needs every individual will have different needs identify the four genetic skin types through visualization palpation and consultation skin type please highlight those first two sentences and put a star next to it skin type is a classification that describes a person's genetic skin's attributes skin type is determined by genetics and ethnicity but like everything else skin can change over time generally skin becomes drier over time because our cellular metabolism and our oil lipid production slows down as we age skin type is based primarily on how much oil is produced in the follicles from the sebaceous glands and on the amount of lipids found between the cells the t-zone is the center area of the face corresponding to the letter t shaped formed by the forehead nose and the chin evaluating the pores in the t-zone is the first initial step in determining your client's skin type highlight the following and put a star next to it all skin types need proper cleansing exfoliating hydrating and protection okay we need to protect all skin types finding the right treatment plan to each individual can be challenging and this makes the esthetician's role even more interesting the focus of this chapter is to identify skin types conditions you guys mastering the skills is necessary before learning about which products and treatments to choose for each person when we perform skin analysis we are using our visual abilities often under a magnification to note properties in the skin such as pore size or irregularities in the skin for example blemishes we use palpation to examine the skin through touch manipulating it to determine conditions such as oiliness and elasticity and we use consultation conversing with their clients to determine their lifestyle and dietary issues that impact the skin you will experience more success in your profession as your skills and assessment get stronger and this is something that you will get with more experience and as you grow in the industry in your profession in aesthetics skin types are categorized as follows we have normal combination oily and dry okay so again on page 165 learning to identify skin types will help you formulate the best skin care treatment plan the oil hydration balance is easily affected with combination skin on figure 5'4 oily skin ages more slowly because the oil acts as a protectant to the skin you guys dry skin can have comprised trans epidermal water loss normal skin often changes as we age so although you may find yourself thinking that you have normal skin your skin can change over time and remember that we can all become sensitive at any point all right so normal skin skin type will be normal what does it look like how does it feel how is it treated why and what are the expert tips on page 166 so again normal skin has a very balanced oil hydration is very balanced uh the follicle size is relatively pretty small the appearance is very uniform okay it feels very soft smooth to texture and it has very good elasticity okay how do you treat normal skin so maintenance and prevention treatments so although your skin is normal you would still want to go in for routine facials perhaps once a month use four steps to skin health cleanse exfoliate nourish and protect remember it's all about balancing why body systems functioning holistically for balance most common in 20s and 30s all right so the expert tips would be introduce anti-aging products as client mature so again is never too early to start using anti-aging products and ingredients normal skin will often become drier with age and reinforce the use of sunscreen okay sunscreen is very important all right combination skin put a star next to that has an oil balance moderate to high hydration would be good to uh maybe dehydrated at times follicle size will be larger in the t-zone than cheeks and sides of the face its appearance can have buildup of dead skin cells and oil in pores around the nose but dry or flaky skin outside of the t-zone some blemishes and comedones it feels oilier in the center t-zone then excuse me then sides of the face all right how is it treated cleansing and regular exfoliation water-based products and avoid using harsh products and rough exfoliations why overproduction of oil in the t-zone may have normal oil production in the t-zone and dehydrated skin on the sides of the face expert tips will be evaluated often as oil hydration balance can be disrupted by hormonal and environmental influences so you will find yourself maybe feeling more oily or more dry you know it just depends reinforce again the use of sunscreen all right now let's get into oily oily skin so oil moderate to high hydration will be good to maybe dehydrate it the follicle size could be moderate too large remember oilier skin types their follicles are a little bit larger okay it's appearance shiny we know that it tends to look a little oily right comedones and blemishes may be visible present in the skin it feels thick yet firm uneven due to congestion perhaps how is it treated regular cleansing and exfoliation and hydrating uh with water-based products treatments to oil balance the oil production why overproduction of oil due to genetics hormonal changes medication stress or environmental factors such as skin care products or makeup that are commonogenic all right what else over exfoliation can create oilier skin a sebaceous glands work to increase surface dryness again just because you have oily skin it doesn't need it doesn't mean that you have to go overboard and over exfoliate your skin if not what's going to be happening is your skin is going to go into overdrive and start producing more oil again that is why i say it's all about balance all right clients with oily skin breakouts and comedones may uh have them on the neck back shoulders and chest clients with oily skin uh age a little bit more slowly since the oil acts again as a protectant on the skin clients will need to use spf regularly to avoid post inflammatory hyperpigmentation dry skin on page 167 at the top put a star next to where it says dry all right so oil very minimal okay very minimal production of oil hydration again very minimal hydration follicle size difficult to visualize the pores are very fine and not that noticeable appearance can be a little dull lack of luminosity flaky sometimes even a little blotchy feeling of the skin can be a little rough thin but yet very tight all right how is it treated oil based products to provide protection of the acid mantle and increase the barrier function dry skin often has a comprised tewl which stands for trans epidermal water loss again caused by evaporation of the skin surface treatments to provide nourishment and protection you want to really nourish dry skin okay why under production of oil due to genetics again environmental factors and hormones as well expert tips dry skin may often be dehydrated can you imagine being dehydrated and dry at the same time my goodness all right reinforce the use of sunscreen again no matter what skin type everyone must use sunscreen all right next differentiate the six fitzpatrick skin types okay and accurately identify them developed by dr thomas fitzpatrick the fitzpatrick skill is used to measure the skin's type's ability to tolerate ultraviolet sun exposure uv exposure many skin treatments protocols are based on the clients fits patrick's skin type okay so you guys due to racially mixed genetics there is no true photo type okay classification system therefore the skill is just a simple guideline please remember that when it comes to skin treatments everyone's level of reactivity is obviously different lighter skin types are generally more sensitive individuals with dark skin have larger melanin deposits in a stratum corneum which gives more protection from the sun but dark skin types face other risk adverse reactions like hyper or hypopigmentation and keloid scarring may occur due to aggressive treatments all right so here is a sample on page 168 of the fitzpatrick type the fitzpatrick scale put a star next to fitzpatrick type number one which it's going over eye color hair color unexposed skin heritage again hereditary um skin reaction to uv exposure all right so type one would be blue or green eyes hair would most likely be blonde or reddish always burns peels with burn does not tan all right they are at a very high risk of skin cancer and obviously again sunscreen protection is necessary fitzpatrick's type number two blue hazel brown eyes uh hair again could be red blonde or brown um unexposed skin would be very light okay um burns very easily usually peels tans minimally okay type three will be brown uh eyes would be brown hair most likely dark uh unexposed skin will be fair to olive um tans will burns moderately type 4 will be dark you know dark eyes dark hair unexposed skin most likely like a light brown tans easily burns minimally experience immediate pigment response uh type five put a star next to type five um again dark eyes dark hair uh dark brown skin perhaps um rarely burns intense easily okay and usually stays tan for a long period of time type six will be again dark hair dark eyes um rarely you know burns and never burns tans very easily okay um so again this is just a simple guide all right of if it's patrick's scale again we come in all different genetic mixtures different colors so it's all beautiful okay but it's very helpful to understand the skins ability to tolerate sun exposure regardless of what type you are you have to remember that you have to protect your skin from the sun by using a full broad spectrum sunscreen all right other skin classification system so there are other classification system used when evaluating the skin but fitzpatrick is the most commonly used they will ask you about the fitzpatrick skill in your state board exam so be very uh aware of it and please make sure that you at least understand it you may want to research other resources for information on the gluco scale in the reuben scale all right we are now on page 169 at the top distinguish the characteristics of sensitive skin we are constantly bombarded by enviro environmental stimuli stress sun exposure and other unhealthy elements sensitive skin is a condition but you can also be genetically predisposed sensitive skin is characterized by fragile thin skin and redness please highlight all of that and put a star next to it clients with a heritage that is northern european fitzpatrick's skin type type one tend to have fair light color scan that is thinner and more sensitive it flushes easily and may appear red due to the blood flow being closer to the surface individuals with multicultural skin can also be naturally sensitive without the visible redness sensitive skin is easily irritated by products or by exposure to heat or sun telangietasia okay that's another key uh term that we have seen and talked about in other chapters again telangietasia visible broken or distended capillaries less than 0.5 millimeters due to intrinsic um or extrinsic causes may be no noticeable on sensitive skin so if you have distended capillaries if you are pretty fair skin they will be more noticeable on your face these conditions are a proactive visible reaction to let us know that something is irritating the skin all right that's just the skin's reaction fragile or thin skin can also be the result of age or medications skin can become reactive you guys and sensitized from exposure to things such as harsh products heat or even become dehydrated and chapped from cold weather sensitive or yet sensitized skin can be difficult to treat because of the low tolerance to product and stimulation so for example excessive rubbing heat exfoliation or extractions can cause damage and increase redness sensitive skin needs to be treated very gentle with non-irritating calming products and treatments it is important to find out what could be causing sensitive conditions by completing a very thorough skin analysis it is a natural part of their skin condition or is it something the client is exposed to that is causing this primary treatment goal for sensitive skin again is to soothe calm and protect the skin i love it i am here for it all right next page recognize the intricacies involved with treating skin of color all fitzpatrick's skin types have the same number of melanocytes higher fitzpatrick's skin types have melanocytes that produce more melanin melanocytes comprise about five to ten percent of all the cells in the basal layer most of the differentiation it depends on the ethnicity of the individual and their geographic location a person who lives along the equator will have much more active melanocytes than the person who lives at the north pole in addition to these considerations each of these skin types have specific characteristics all right let's talk about fitzpatrick skin type number four considered to be one of the most challenging skin types to treat will has great elasticity and firmness and does not show signs of aging as quickly as fitzpatrick skin types 1 and 2. it can become hyperpigmented from treatments or aggressive exfoliating agents gentle exfoliating products are recommended may need to add melanin suppressants or other skin lighteners to their skin care routine put a star next to the following require sun protection to slow down hyperpigmentation must avoid sun exposure and use sun protection daily especially for anyone prone to hyperpigmentation fitzpatrick skin types 3 and 4 typically have thicker skin that is usually characterized by more oil production and need more deep cleansing treatments additionally waxing is more difficult for individuals with this fitzpatrick skin type that has thicker hair and thicker roots in the follicles if you want to specialize in skin of color explore educational resources and advanced classes for this area of study no matter what a client's skin type or ethnicity background everyone needs an individualized skin care consultation and treatment plan to maintain healthy beautiful skin no matter the fitzpatrick skin type fitzpatrick skin types five and six they generally have oilier and thicker skin but have the same level of reactivity as someone with the lore fitzpatrick skin type reactions may be more challenging to see on darker skin but they may be just as intense as those on lighter skin are prone to a form of hyperkeratosis so therefore they need more exfoliation and more deep pore cleansing may have abnormal hypertrophic scarring such as keloids you guys sun protection is still very much so necessary for this skin types again i repeat i know i sound like a broken record but it does not matter your fitzpatrick okay whether you're a one two three four or a six everyone needs proper sun protection all right we are now on page 171 identify treatment options for the neck and decollete highlight the following and put a star next to it the skin on the neck and decollete is not the same as the skin on the face the neck and decollete have fewer sebaceous glands than the face so they tend to show signs of aging more quickly the neck and decollete are more susceptible to irritation photo damage broken capillaries fine lines and right eyes wrinkles develop just as much on the neck and chest as on the face okay you have what is now called tech neck a new phenomenon caused by the repeated movement of looking down at a cell phone or other electronic devices has created a demand for specialty topical treatments that include antioxidant growth factors and serums and additional moisture be cautious when applying vitamin a or aha and aha products that may cause excess irritation to that certain to that specific area a product such as a retinol may be fine for the phase but may be too aggressive for the neck remind your clients that the neck and decollete again need spf protection as much as the face does alright page 172 illustrate examples of skin conditions many internal and external factors affect the conditions of a person's skin skin conditions are more than our genetic makeup these conditions are what the esthetician is most concerned about and they are the focus of skin treatments highlight the following some of the most common skin conditions estheticians see today is adult acne extrinsic aging again this is from sun exposure and the environment and problems related to hormonal fluctuations dehydration which is the skin's lack of water and pigmentation disorders are also significant concerns of our clients today other skin conditions include comedones hyperkeratinization and erythema redness we can improve some of these conditions through regularly scheduled skin care treatments by using specialized products and by avoiding the factors that affect the condition on the client's chart you will want to note other conditions that they that may not be listed in and that you learn about here and in chapter 4 disorders and diseases of the skin all right so again skin conditions in the descriptions here on this chart um i'm not going to go to all of these but please do not ignore the chart i will say to put a star in a highlight where it says affixiated skin which is smokers have asphyxiated skin from lack of oxygen characterized by clogged pores and wrinkles dull lifeless looking skin can be yellowish or even gray in color again please do not ignore all the terminology that is on page 172 and 173 also put a star and highlight the word milia milia is a heart and pearl like collection of oil and dead skin cells trapped beneath the surface of the skin milias are not exposed to oxygen and have to be land sent to open and remove them milias are typically the size of the head of a pin um so yeah there are some states that do not allow estheticians to extract milia so that's that all right next page 174 again there is more terminology on this chart um some of these we actually already went over on chapter four diseases and disorders of the skin so some of this should definitely be more like a review to you but again don't ignore it go over it again if you need to make flash cards to help you remember some of these terms please go ahead and do so all right explain the causes of skin conditions being aware of what can affect the skin will help you determine why a client may be experiencing problems often skin conditions are due to more than one influence okay the esthetician must evaluate multiple causes both external and internal to correct or improve a skin's condition each client is different and the skin of various clients may respond differently to the exact same treatment again that's why it is not a one size fits all okay it is definitely not all right bottom of page 175 external factors that affect the skin you guys have its diet and stress all play a part in our health which in turn is reflected in our skin's appearance skin conditions can be caused by allergies reactions medication medical conditions and other external uh or extrinsic factors okay additionally lack of exercise lack of sleep smoking medication and drugs will have negative effects both inside and out sun damage is the main external cause of aging i repeat sun exposure is the main external cause of aging all right these factors can also contribute to skin problems and can be detrimental to maintain a healthy and attractive complexion as you read through the following chart you can understand why correct skin analysis and product and treatment recommendations are very important all right external effects on the skin again uv exposure sun damage tanning beds environmental exposure pollutant obviously the air quality the environment climate humidity poor maintenance inappropriate skin care you will be surprised how many people out there buy products that is not necessarily for their skin type and they're actually doing a reverse effect on their skin by not having the knowledge and using the wrong skin care products on themselves all right seek an esthetician you guys if you're watching this and you're not in the industry all right again it's here misuse of products or treatments over exfoliation harsh products put a star next to that all right allergies and reactions to environmental factors or products photosensitivity you guys to the sun from medication or products all right internal factors that affect the skin so our body's internal or intrinsic health affect how we feel and how well as well as how our body and skin look and perform free radicals in the body dehydration again lack of water vitamin deficiency improper nutrition genetics hormones puberty pregnancy menopause all affect our skin's well-being hormonal imbalances can lead to sensitivity dehydration hyperpigmentation and micro circulation problems that affect capillaries all right on page 177 describe healthy habits for the skin top 10 healthy habits for the skin will be avoid sun exposure and obviously using sunscreen daily eat a balanced diet do not smoke put a star next to avoid excessive alcohol drink plenty of water get plenty of rest stay active and exercise regularly use beneficial skin care products in a regular home care routine get professional skin care treatments to maintain the result of your of your home care regimen and to more effectively treat the signs of aging blemishes or other skin conditions or obviously any other type of concern implement stress relievers and maintain a calm positive attitude positivity to all okay that's our motto all right bottom of page 177 determine treatment contraindications through evaluation analysis and consultation all right certain treatments and skin care products may be contraindicated for a particular client and it is your responsibility to evaluate the appropriateness of treatment and skin care products after your skin analysis and review of the client's medical history these contraindications are factors that prohibit a treatment from being done performed okay or the use of certain skin care products being used on a client's skin okay certain treatments could cause harmful or a negative side effect to those who have specific medical conditions all right you guys so put a star next to that and highlight it communicable diseases skin disorders medical conditions medication and skin irritation can all contraindicate or prohibit a service or use of skin care product the client may list a communicable disease on the client's questionnaire recognizing diseases is vital to avoid causing harm to clients or to you okay we went over again diseases and disorders of the skin and the previous chapter which is chapter four medications or topical exfoliating agents may make the skin too sensitive for facials or waxing okay certain medical conditions illnesses and diseases such as cancer may contraindicate any stimulation to the face or body allergies and sensitivities to the skin care products must be evaluated clients who have obvious skin conditions such as open wounds cold sores or other abnormal looking conditions should be referred to a medical provider for an evaluation and approval for an aesthetic treatment contraindications are also discussed in other chapters on page 178 there is a chart of different contraindications for skin treatments i'm just gonna go over a few of these but obviously again do not ignore this chart um at the bottom and the use of oral steroids put a star next to that and highlight it um avoid any stimulating exfoliating treatments um or waxing anyone that has an autoimmune disease such as lupus vitiligo avoid any harsh stimulating treatments or skin care products okay you have to make sure that you get an approval from their primary um physician okay all right on page 179 client consultations a thorough client consultation is important for many reasons the most important is to determine that a treatment is appropriate for the client okay or that the the skin care product will be will benefit the client's skin a consultation will help you to determine why a client may be unhappy with their skin or its appearance you guys health lifestyle occupation and more affect the skin sometimes estheticians are like detectives trying to determine why the client is having a certain skin problem the more you know about your client the more you can make appropriate recommendations for skin care and treatments reminders on how to prepare for a client consultation all right um is the client comfortable you are about to begin an important conversation with them that will clue you in their needs and preferences is your work area freshly cleaned and uncluttered are all other appropriate tools to perform the desired service ready for use do you have a pen or a laptop or a tablet along with vendor supplied or a salon manufacturer pamphlet photos articles anything that you may need during your consultation make sure you have those in hand do you have a step-by-step photos of the actual treatment process photos can be helpful in letting clients know what to expect all right will you be able to discuss whom the best candidates are for specific treatments to help decide if the treatment is suitable for a client all right something else that's very important during any treatment would be intake forms all right please highlight all of that and put a star next to it an intake form also called a client questionnaire which has health history forms or consultation cards okay this form discloses the client's health history of products and medications um that they're using any known allergies or sensitivities along with their at-home skin care program and skin care treatment the client has recently received that could obviously affect treatment information should be excuse me information should also include important details about the client including their name age what they do diet lifestyle habits all of that again the more you know the better all right and again this is just a sample of what an intake a medical form uh would look like all right you would obviously want to create one that works for your practice okay and for the different services that you offer glenn then we have a consent form all of these are very important okay keeping record and making sure that you have these put away uh locked uh away safely is also um very very important okay all right again consent forms client charts service record card okay how to use the client intake form the client intake form again should be mentioned the moment that the client schedules an appointment you want to let them know to arrive anywhere between 10 to 15 minutes before their appointment to fill out this paperwork i know nowadays not everyone uses paper so if you have all these forms uh uploaded with whatever booking system you use this is something that you want to make sure that your clients fill out before their appointment that way you can review everything if there is anything that is contraindicating for the service that they are looking for you can let them know ahead of time so again this is just all very uh helpful information about all of that okay questions to ask during the consultation what is the reason for your visit what are your skin concerns what are your goals for yours for your skin what is your home skin care routine do you have one you will be surprised as to how many people do not have a home skin care routine on treatments before do you have allergies to products or any type of scents um how does your skin feel during different times of the day do you wear sunscreen do you want to find out how much outdoor activities they do um do they smoke again of any known allergies that they might have um the skin care consultation and skin analysis is your moment okay it is your moment to make the client aware of what you are noting okay about their skin condition and what services or products you offer that could benefit them the consultation is also a marketing and an educational opportunity to the client once you learn about ingredients and start performing skin care treatments you will be recommending products to your clients think about how you can help the client through treatments home care suggestions and preventative measures conduct the consultation discuss with what you see with your client and give recommendations during the analysis or after the treatment that's completely up to you it is beneficial to practice skin analysis before diving into product and treatment each subject you study gives you a foundation to build upon for the next step you guys that is so true all right um on the next page which is page 188 it is talking about performing the actual skin analysis all right knowing how to analyze the skin is the first step in providing excess successful skin care treatment and recommending effective skin care products identify conditions and contraindications as well as providing a thorough consultation and charting clients notes are all elements of a good aesthetic practice educating clients on healthy habits and the causes of skin conditions is part of the service products ingredients different types of facials and caring for their skin okay even if there are no obvious visible change skin care treatments have positive benefits and make a difference information on choosing products for treatments and home care is presented in chapter six skin care products chemistry ingredients which we will be going over next all right soon you will automatically notice skin conditions the more you do the better obviously you become all right that's how you start building experience you will become um very quick at doing skin analysis in the waiting room because sometimes clients need a quick product recommendation or are not sure as far as what type of treatment they should receive this skill can be very beneficial in selling products and treatments you can perform a more in-depth analysis when the client obviously comes in for an actual treatment knowing skin types conditions and the factors affecting the skin's health as well as interviews interviewing skills that encourage your client to open up about their skin care regimen enables you to perform an accurate skin analysis the best tool for analyzing the skin is a magnifying lamp or light a wood slam which is a filter black light that is used to illuminate skin disorders fungi bacterial disorders and deeper levels of pigmentation or an electronic photo imaging system there's technology you guys it's a lot there are a lot of different things that are being used today for skin analysis there are other handheld tools such as a moisture analyzation meter and devices that magnify hundreds of times are available to analyze the skin here's my theory no matter what type of technology is out there you definitely want to be able to do a very good skin analysis by asking your clients questions and really seeing what you are able to see with a naked eye and making sure that you are obviously able to communicate with your client and what you see and what best suits their skin care needs versus really depending on a machine to do it for you right they're cool and all but at the end of the day you want to make sure that you're able to perform a skin analysis very well client information is personal and confidential so be so be objective when you write on a client's chart clients will appreciate you remembering their children's name or the recent trip to hawaii so try so try to recall some personal information the next time they come in uh and keep it in a separate file for your own personal references again it's just to making them feel more comfortable all right your record could be legal documents in a dispute with a client so write um legally make sure you date all entries and sign your name review the steps to performing a skin analysis in procedures 5-1 and demonstrate your abilities to your instructor and set forth in the guidelines okay all right so on page 190 is where it starts to show different pictures and obviously the different steps on how to perform a skin analysis on page 191 please highlight where it says use a magnifying light to examine the skin more thoroughly a woods lamp or an electronic imaging system may also be used again i'm not going to read all of this but please make sure that you guys go over this all right on page 192 uh please put a start and highlight number seven look closely to determine the client's skin type the conditions present and the overall appearance of their skin you know this chapter is actually not not very difficult again i feel like the more um we have gone over other chapters it again is just putting everything into perspective everything is connected so again please review this more than once if you are studying to pass your state board written exam yes you will have questions over skin analysis on that test so make sure that you are reviewing this chapter thoroughly again they are going to ask about the fitzpatrick scale um again all of this information is very important i hope all of this has been very helpful to you and like always i will see you on my next one bye