Lecture on Tourbillon Watches

Overview

• Tourbillon mechanism in expensive watches
• Example: $5.8 million watch bought at a Chris's auction in 2023
• Complications add significant cost but don't improve performance

Tourbillon Mechanism

• Created to counter gravity's effects on vertical pocket watches
• Modern wrist watches don't need it for accuracy
• Adds significant cost due to complexity and craftsmanship
• Collectors value them for their engineering and aesthetic appeal

Mechanism Details

• Balance Wheel and Hairspring: Main components causing the ticking motion
• Escape Wheel: Advances toothed by tooth due to the balance wheel's movement
• Escapement: The entire mechanism placed inside a rotating metal cage
• Designed to counteract gravity in vertical positions

Craftsmanship

• Highly precise, requires extreme accuracy (thousandth of a millimeter)
• Components often made from brass and steel
• Automated machining: 15-20 mins for small parts, 1+ hour for complex parts
• Heat treatment: Quenching and tempering to reinforce parts
• Chamfering: Bevel edges to reduce friction; aesthetically polished and coated

Case Study: Remy Cools

• 26-year-old watchmaker, works near Lake Annecy, France
• Creates collections of tourbillon watches, each taking about a month
• Uses CNC machines for precision parts
• Employs heat treatment for strengthening components
• Manual crafting for precise adjustments

Team

• Remy Cools and Clemence Ti
• Both graduates of Les Grands Ateliers de France
• Worked for high-end brands (Greubel Forsey, Patek Philippe)
• Clemence is involved in assembling and fine-tuning the mechanisms

Assembly and Fine-tuning

• Balance wheel balancing, hairspring cutting and shaping
• Detailed assembly process using specialized tools
• Takes several days to ensure precision
• Final checks include sealing, waterproofing, and dust-particle scanning

Market Perspective

• Collectors view tourbillons as art pieces
• High demand despite no improvement in timekeeping accuracy
• Retailers like Watches of Switzerland educate customers about independent makers
• Example: Year of the Dragon-themed tourbillon from Breguet costing around $500,000

Conclusion

• Tourbillon watches are valued for their engineering complexity and artistic craftsmanship
• Often considered collector's items and high art in horology