Lecture Notes: Waves and Oceanography

Understanding Waves

• Types of Waves:

  • Ocean waves, sound waves, light waves
  • Tsunamis - caused by tectonic activities

• Formation of Waves:

  • Waves are primarily created by wind.
  • The shape of the sea bottom influences how waves break and appear.
  • Example: Ship Sterns wave in Tasmania, characterized by irregular sea bottom.

Surfing and Safety

• Surfing Dynamics:

  • Surfers sometimes use straps similar to snowboard bindings for stability.
  • Surfing involves risks similar to everyday activities like driving.

• Wipeouts:

  • Highlight the risks and passion involved in surfing.
  • Stories of surfers' experiences during wipeouts.

Waves in Science

• Waves Beyond the Ocean:
  • Sound Waves: Facilitate hearing.
  • Light Waves: Allow us to see.

Tsunamis

• Nature of Tsunamis:

  • Earthquake or tectonic waves
  • Highly destructive with the capability to destroy infrastructure and sweep away vehicles.

• Visual Learning:

  • Videos showing tsunami impact (details of the video are blocked).

Wind Waves

• Formation by Wind:

  • Originates from storms (e.g., North Pacific, North Atlantic).
  • Wind direction influences wave direction.
  • Waves formed near storms are chaotic.

• Wave Dispersion:

  • Process where waves sort themselves out over time.

Concepts and Terminology

• Fetch:

  • The distance over which wind blows across water.

• Factors Affecting Wave Size:

  • Wind speed
  • Duration of the wind
  • Fetch

• Rogue Waves:

  • Unusually large waves that can appear unexpectedly in stormy seas.

Future Topics

• The lecture mentioned future discussions on the principles of waves, such as wavelength and period.
• Planned coverage of tsunami waves in more detail in subsequent lectures.

These notes provide a comprehensive overview of the discussed topics, including the formation and characteristics of different types of waves, surfing dynamics, and the impact of tsunamis. The lecture emphasizes the role of wind in wave creation and introduces important oceanographic concepts.