what's up guys in this video I'm going to show you how I frame the walls in my basement this is going this is going to cover all the basics so you can eventually run electrical and install drywall for a finished basement if that's what you're going for let's get into the video [Music] in the last video I installed rigid foam insulation I'll link that video above but that's typically going to be done before you frame your walls now when framing a basement wall you're going to have a top plate the bottom plate and your wall studs and those wall studs are typically going to be placed 16 inches on Center the bottom plate is going to be in contact with your concrete slab so that needs to be pressure treated and the top plate can be standard Kiln dried Lumber the first step in framing walls is to measure the Wall height which is the distance between the floor slab and the joist above measure in a few locations and the shortest measurement is what you want to frame your walls to so if you measure the Wall height to be say 90 inches between the floor slab and the floor joist above you're going to want to cut your studs to 87 inches to make up for the half inch top plate and the half inch bottom plate so whenever the total Wall height is subtract three inches and that's going to be your stud length after cutting your studs to length you want to take your top plate and bottom plate and I recommend that you run the tape measure along marking 16 inches on Center all the way across this is by far the fastest way to do it but I decided to do stick framing which is where you individually cut the studs after you lift the wall into place in my basement which was pretty inefficient looking back Additionally you want to make sure that you Crown all of your studs making sure that each board is facing Crown up then I recommend that you use three and a half inch nails and a framing nailer to secure the two outermost studs here you can see that I'm using two nails per connection to nail the top plate to the studs and then I'm going to do the same thing with the bottom plate which is pressure treated attaching the studs through the bottom like you're seeing next you're going to lift the wall into place preliminarily I recommend that you actually Mark the wall location on your floor slab using a chalk line and then when it's in place you want to secure it to this lab using a carbide tip drill bit to actually drill through the board and into the concrete slab and then using tapcon screws to secure it in place after anchoring the bottom use a level to make sure that the wall is perfectly Plumb and if everything looks good you can anchor it to your joist above in this part of my basement there was a little bit of a bump out so I took a furring strip and I attached it to the wall by pre-drilling with a carbide tip masonry bit and then using tapcon screws to Anchor it and then I established a line going from the front of that furring strip to the end of my wall and then what I'm going to do is when I frame my wall the outermost part of that wall is going to be flush with the furring strip you'll see what I mean in a second so right now I'm cutting the bottom plate in the top plate and then I'm crowning the boards like we did before to make sure everything is crowned up then I'm installing the outermost studs and then I'm going to nail it in place once everything looks good and as I mentioned before I recommend that you put in all the studs before you lift it into place don't be like me now as you can see I have the wall on that chalk line so basically when I attach the drywall it'll go into that furring strip and line up perfectly with the wall that we just installed now although I anchored all of my bottom plates to the slab using a carbide tip masonry bit to pre-drill and tapcon screws you can also use a powder actuated tool which is going to use gunpowder to essentially launch a nail through your bottom plate and secure it into the slab I didn't have one of these but it would have been a lot faster so for some reason I decided to mark my stud spacing and cut my individual studs once the wall was already lifted vertically I don't know why I chose to do this it ended up making the process a lot longer but here I am showing how I installed those after the fact by custom cutting each stud positioning it in Place 16 inches on Center and then making sure that the studs are perfectly flush with the top plate and bottom plate and because we cut our walls to the shortest Dimension so that they would be able to be lifted into place you might need to shim before actually anchoring the top plate to the joist above here I am moving on to a small sump closet which is just a closet I'm building around my Sump Pump and I'm framing all three of these smaller walls individually I'm getting the First wall position there and then I'm going to frame up the second smaller wall and I'm going to position that in place before cutting the final wall which is going to have the door that I'm going to install later on again with the whole stick framing process I'm going to add the king studs the Jack studs etc for that door later on also use a hammer as needed to move the wall around and manipulate it to get everything Plum and square at this point I'm moving on with the stick framing process and that's cutting each stud into visually positioning it in place between the bottom and the top plate and then toenailing the studs into the top and bottom plate using the framing nail and because these walls aren't supporting any kind of load I'm going to install framing around the window for the sole purpose of hanging drywall so it does need to have the Jack studs and the support that you typically see for these types of Windows now because I wasn't the smartest on this project and I didn't mark my 16 inch on Center spacing for all of my top and bottom plates before I actually lifted the wall I'm going back here and I'm marking the bottom plate and now the top plate and then I'm cutting my studs to length after measuring then I'm going to Crown each of the studs position them in place making sure that they are perfectly in line with the 16 inch on Center markings use a level if you want to check that it's perfectly plumbed make sure that the front of the stud is flush with the top and bottom plate and then just like before we're going to toenail the stud to the top and bottom plate use two nails per connection now if I was doing this again I would 100 frame the entire wall on the floor marking the top and bottom plate at 16 inch on Center spacing beforehand and I'd also probably use 16 foot top and bottom plates to make everything go a little faster here I am marking the top and bottom plates again cutting all of my individual studs and then toenailing it in place this was a pretty redundant process and it took a long time because I didn't do it the right way which is framing the wall on the ground so a lot of the same lessons can be applied here with the stick framing approach but it's by far much less efficient than framing on the ground and lifting it in place there might be some benefit from framing your doors and windows after lifting the walls in place using stick framing but honestly I still think it'd probably be a better bet just to measure everything out and Frame It On The Ground beforehand now before wrapping up the video I want to talk a little bit about framing the corners now for the inside corners of this basement I use something called California Corners which I didn't show too well on video but I'm gonna show in the model here so if we remove the top plate you can see that we're going to go ahead and have a typical stud in the corner that you're always going to have but you're also going to turn one stud sideways and mount it to the inside face of the other stud this will accomplish two purposes one it's going going to allow you to insulate better and two it's going to give you a backing for the drywall or gypsum board you're going to be installing later on and although this video is about framing walls and not doors you'll need to cut out the bottom plate wherever you have a door in your basement so hopefully this video gave you some ideas of what to do and what not to do when framing basement walls in the next video we're going to install electrical in preparation for the drywall installation thanks for watching this one and I'll see you on the next one