before you record video with the Blackmagic app the first thing you need to do is decide whether you want your shutter speed displayed as fractions of a second or as degrees proponents of the 180° shutter are probably going to want to see the latter so in the bottom left corner we have the good old settings Cog tap that and then choose camera in the left menu and about halfway down we have the shutter measurement setting by default VA is set to speed so if you want to see degrees then change this to angle why is it called angle well because this comes from movie cameras that use a rotating shutter you know to be clear I'm talking about cameras that shoot film and the only way you can change the shutter speed is to change the angle of this rotating shutter so if we select angle and then tap camera to return to the main screen we will now see that our shutter speed is displayed in degre and you get this little circle here which is the degree symbol so let's tap the shutter speed at the top and bring up the shutter speed controller like I say if you want to use the 180° rule just move this to 180° and to close this controller tap the shutter speed again and this is actually a good thing to remember when it comes to the Blackmagic UI tap to open and then tap again to close so what you really don't want to do is to set your shutter speed and then tap the middle of the screen because yes this does close the controller but it also sets your exposure to match whatever you tapped on so in other words it totally ruins all the settings that you just spent time getting right so instead just press the button that you press to open the controller for this video which is a complete guide to using the Blackmagic app I'm going to use the normal shutter speed display because it's basically what most people are used to and it's what I use anyway so here's a quick tip if you swipe up on the screen you're going to get a clear preview without all the settings and meters and then to get it back you just swipe down again now that we've adjusted shutter speed exposure is being set manually which means that shutter speed and ISO are not going to change again unless we do it ourselves either by using the controller or by tapping on the screen so how do we go back to Auto exposure if we want to on the right you will find a plus minus button tap this to open the exposure value controller tap Auto at the top so that it goes blue now Auto exposure is switched back on and you can tell this because there's a letter A beside shutter and ioso so we can keep it in Auto and adjust the EV value up or down so this is useful if you want to use Auto exposure but you find that it's just a bit too dark or it's a bit too bright and you can use the controller to adjust just the EV up or down again don't tap on the screen to close the EV control because then it's going to switch exposure to manual and it will set shutter and ISO instead tap the EV button to close it now let's look up Focus the second button down on the right is the focus control tap it to open the focus slider and really this is to my mind the weakest part of the app now firstly it's not too good for recording Focus PS because you can't swipe the whole range from Maximum Focus to minimum focus in one go you have to do it in multiple movements and that's not too good for a smooth Focus Bol and secondly since early November they've added this feature that they call haptic feedback to all the sliders so haptic feedback means the controls are sticky and not smooth you know like when you're setting controls on a regular camera and it sort of sticks into place but the problem is this also makes it harder to shoot Focus because really you want this just to slide nice and easily and smoothly you don't want to be sort of fighting against this sticky haptic feedback thing so I I do hope that black magic design remove this feature and just let the focus slide like every other app and also allow us to go the full range of focus in one movement but that said I have developed a way of doing this and later I'm going to show you how to shoot a focus pull with the Black Magic Camera app now you can add a focus seing overlay and this going to help make sure your focus is accurate if we tap the button above the focus button we open another menu and this menu allows us to add a series of overlays which can help set our controls and one of these is for focus and we know that it's for Focus because it looks similar to the focus button except this button has a subject Inside the Box tap it and now you get a slider control and you get an onoff button at the top so we might get confused here and we might think this is the focus slider but it's not and if you slide it up and down nothing seems to change and this actually controls the intensity or you know the strength of the focus peaking overlay so let's leave that control for now and enable focus peaking at the top and close the control by tapping the button again you can see there's now a little white dot below the button and that tells us Focus peing is switched on and that's the same for all these uh little buttons here if something is switched on you're going see this little white dot below it when we open the focus control again we now get this red overlay everything red is in focus and if we move Focus you can see the red moves as the focus moves and we can also change the way the focus assist works just go into settings and then go to monitor here you can choose whether to use lines or peaking and you can also change the color okay so I think that gives you a good insight into how this app works now let's look closer at how the heads up display is laid out did you actually know that HUD stands for heads up display I actually only just found that out and apparently it comes from a pilot being able to view information with the head position looking up and looking forward anyway so the sort of basic rule with this app is that whenever you want to kind of go back to recording video and you want the main camera preview window just tap the camera button in the top right corner in the top left corner we have the camera picker here you can see the currently selected camera at the moment I have the main camera of my iPhone 15 Pro selected which is the 24 mm equivalent tap it to bring up a menu containing all your available cameras you can actually switch cameras while you're recording but I did notice one little bug because if you switch to the front camera while recording well at least this is what I get I get an upside down video for the front camera uh while all the other cameras are the right way up so I don't know why that is uh and I don't know if this affects all iPhones something to bear in mind if you want to record video and switch between front and rear cameras next along we can see the app is currently set to shoot 30 frames per second tap that to open up the frame rate controller you might notice that the Black Magic app has these weird settings like 29.97 frames per second so what Madness is this you might be asking yourself it's a bit weird isn't it well if you've used Pro cameras or you worked for TV you've probably already come across this 29.97 frames per second setting and to cut a very long story short it all comes down to how TV was invented in the 1940s and I'm not going to go into that here but yes it is another hangover from the distant past that is still still stuck with us and it has no real use uh for people that are just shooting video with their iPhones or smartphones so basically unless you have a specific reason for shooting at 29.97 frames per second then you can forget this setting and the same goes for the 23.98 and the 59.94 frames per second settings and if you choose 1080p resolution then you can now shoot up to 120 frames per second so aside from that the setting frame rate is pretty straightforward tap the current shutter speed to bring up the shutter speed controller and by the way if you want to get a deeper understanding of the six key camera settings I've created a whole course on patreon which you can access as a video creator Pro member next we have our aperture or iris setting which is great out because iPhone cameras have fixed apertures however this number does actually change depending on the selected camera that at the moment it's f1.8 because that's the main camera aperture and if I switch to the ultrawide it now changes to f2.2 and the telephoto is f2.8 so I wouldn't say it's a totally redundant feature I think it is useful to know what your aperture actually is in the middle we have the time code and as soon as you tap the record button the time will start ticking over if we go into settings we can change this to time of day and now it's basically a clock and you can see see the seconds ticking along before we're even recording and personally I'm just going to keep this in the regular time code format tap to open ISO settings or ISO if you want to call it ISO a general rule is to keep ISO as low as possible uh to keep the digital noise as low as possible tap white balance and you can also set this manually use the slider or one of the presets on the right of the slider a white balance is made up of color temperature measured in Kelvin and tint and they can both be set manually by tapping on them the happy medium option for white balance if you don't want to keep setting it exactly each time is you just go into settings and toggle on lock white balance on record so I think you should always have that uh toggled on and that way you don't need to spend time setting it CU it will be set automatically but as soon as you press that record button is going to be locked so it's not going to change during the shot and that's kind of the most important thing really but like I say if you're not sure about these things you can take my course which includes how to use white balance and it's going to set you straight in the left bottom corner we have a histogram which shows you the red green blue and Luminosity levels from Shadows to Highlights bottom right is the audio meter so if you tap this you get audio levels in the middle of the screen and there's a gain level slider here which only works if you have an external microphone plugged in and you can use it to adjust the gain of the external microphone in the middle we have remaining storage space for the current video settings so that's going to change you know if you change your different codec if you change to a different resolution this will change and it's displayed as a percentage as time you know like the amount of time of video that you could shoot and as gigabytes so you can actually remove the histogram the audio meter and the remaining storage Bas displays in settings and then go to Monitor and tole them on or off as you prefer and here you can also actually add a battery level meter for your iPhone and it's going to appear next to the tint setting so let's look at some other key settings so when we want to control the quality of the video you know things like resolution codecs lots and color spaces we need to go to settings tap the settings Cog at the bottom we now have a menu with headings on the left and the one we want is is the record settings so we tap that and on the right we now have headings for codex resolution and so on so let's do resolution so iPhones actually have three resolutions available in this app or even using your native app so 4K is the highest HD which is 1080P and the lowest is 720p and personally I always try to shoot everything in 4k if possible in the top right corner of the preview screen you're going to find the current resolution setting and unfortunately you can't just tap it to change it like you can with the other settings for codex we have h264 and h265 h264 is the older codec which on the downside creates bigger files but on the plus side it's more compatible and it might be slightly easier for editing and this is because more processing power is required to play h265 files because the compression process is more complex so I generally shoot in h265 and then export my videos in h264 because YouTube sometimes seems to have issues with h265 so if you have a proor supporting iPhone you'll also get a list of prores codecs Apple prores 422 HQ is the highest quality that you can shoot with an iPhone but it also creates the biggest files then there's regular Pro res 422 and 422 light which is more compressed and it creates smaller files but obviously it carries less image information Apple proes 422 proxy is an even more highly compressed codec than Apple prores 422 LT and it's intended for use in offline workflows that require low data rates but full resolution video but you know it's still going to contain more image information than than h264 and h265 the other thing is that editing systems should also have an easier time working with apple pror when you compare it to working with h264 and h265 files what you have available in this menu in the color space menu is going to depend on your model of iPhone the regular format is Rec 709 and this is what you normally see when you're streaming TV shows movies and so on on but if you have an iPhone 12 or later you should have the rec 2020 HDR option which is basically the same as the Dolby Vision setting on your iPhone now since iOS 10 iPhones have been able to capture video in the P3 d65 color space so what's this about well simply put if you've never heard of P3 d65 then you probably not going to need it but finally we have the Apple log setting which is only going to be available for iPhone 15 Pro and later models so Apple log is the only setting on an iPhone which allows you to have full manual control because otherwise you've got this Dynamic tone mapping which is controlling different areas of the image and you cannot override that no matter if you switch to a manual app and you start setting ISO and shutter speed exactly as you want it parts of the image will be boosted by this Dynamic tone mapping so if you want this full manual control then use Apple log of course it also allows you to shoot in this Aces log format which is good if you want to spend time color grading your video and I've made a whole video about using Apple log already on this channel so check that out if you want to know more so in case you don't know Lotz stand for lookup table again there's a long history behind Lots but I'm not going to go into that here in settings open the lot tab here we can set the Blackmagic camera app to use a lot for display or we can set it to burn the lot into the recorded video and here we can also select lots and we can import Lots into the Blackmagic app toggle on display lot if you want a lot to be applied to your preview monitor so for example we might have it set to appal and what we then get is this gray washed out image with a display lot applied the monitor is going to show how the video will look once we have applied a lot to it or we can just simply use it to give us an idea of what it's going to look like after grading now you can actually also switch this display L on or off back in the camera preview open the monitor control menu and at the bottom tap the L button and you can enable or disable it with the onoff button so that's going to save you from having to go into settings each time so if you want video clips that look exactly as you see them in the preview with a lot applied toggle on record lot to clip so why would we want to do that isn't the whole point of shooting in log so we can color grade it later well this is true but there is a reason why you might want to burn it in and that's because as I said recording Apple log is the only way to switch off the dynamic tone mapping in the iPhone and if this is your only reason for using this format uh so you're not going to spend hours grading then baking in a lot is going to save you time the Blackmagic app now comes with the Apple log to rec 709 lot pre-installed and this is a basic lot which doesn't really do anything thing except to make your log footage look you know normal and you can use it for preview or obviously you can burn it on to import your own lot tap lot selection then import lot now find the lot that you want to import on your iPhone wherever you've stored it this is on by one lot and it turns your AC's appal log into something resembling the look of an AR Alexa and in the description of this video I'm going to leave a link to that lot you do have to purchase it it is pretty cool I do like the look of it myself if you're interested check out the description and follow the link below the record button we have a button to open stabilization settings and we can set it to off standard cinematic and extreme using stabilization crops into the frame a little bit so if we switch off stabilization we will get more screen space standard is usually good enough for most situations but I do recommend that you try the other settings uh just to see what you get so I just noed something about how this uh extra levels of stabilization work at least in my phone anyway um so if I have the preview lot enabled then I do get this latency as soon as I hit the record button um you get this delay as it applies the extra stabilization while you're filming uh if I don't have the lot in enabled then it doesn't apply the stabilization when I'm filming and it sort of seems to apply it afterwards see might not noticed that any stabilization is being applied until you watch the recorded video and that's actually how the action mode works in the regular iPhone app as well you won't notice the stabilization till you watch it back below the stabilization button is the zoom button so this is a digital zoom and the further you go the less pixels you're going to have available and then you start to get this lower quality video and you can actually zoom up to eight times magnification using these presets or you can manually adjust the zoom by scrolling the scale up to 15 times the Black Magic app allows you to apply a variety of grids and guides to assist you when you're framing focusing and setting exposure the zebra display will draw diagonal lines over areas of your image that have excessive exposure level essentially we're just talking about blown out highlights and the slider allows you to adjust the way it looks so that it fits the exposure level that you want to achieve tap the rule of thirds grid button to open a new menu and we now have four options so if you want you can actually enable them all at the same time or you can choose the best combination that suits you the top one is the good old rule of thirds grid next down opens up a vertical or horizontal Crosshair so when the crosses go Blue you know that your phone is perfectly horizontal or vertical so for example this might be useful for doing those top down shots of your food or whatever there there a simple cross and a simple dot to indicate the exact center of the frame the next button applies frame guides and these aren't going to appear in your final video they're just to guide you if you intend to crop your video when you come to editing so this one just adds a top and bottom screen guides and you can set it to standard rate ratios it will put a line as if you're cropping the top and bottom uh for example 2.39 to 1 is a commonly used aspect ratio in cinema next up is the safe area guide button and you can use this to ensure important image information does not get too close to the edge of the screen for example it might otherwise be cut off when viewed on a consumer grade television and you can adjust the size of this with the slider so it's just up to you if you want to use this and you want to set the safe area next button allows you to enable a false color overlay and this uses different colors to represent different exposure values pink represents Optimum exposure for lighter skin tones while green is actually good for darker skin tones and meanwhile red is Overexposed so this slate lets you add additional details such as shot type or project name and you can swipe left or right to change the p pages so below the camera button we have the media button and this is your gallery where you're going to find all your recorded media so you're not going to find your videos in the regular iPhone photos app unless you tell the app to place it there so this is how you do that you just go back into settings media and then tap save Clips 2 and choose inapp and photo library and now it's going to be saved both to the Blackmagic app and to your iPhone photos app now if you have a da Vinci resolve and you have a Blackmagic subscription which includes cloud storage you can sign in here and you can have your media uploaded automatically to a project which you have created and resolve and that way you can open the resolve project and your files they're just going to be there uh ready to edit and you won't have to import them or anything and it's also useful if you've got someone else editing if you're working in a big team theme and uh someone's waiting for the footage ready to edit you can be on location shooting the clips automatically upload and they can start editing straight away while you're still filming but uh I guess that's quite a specialist thing and I think most people using this app aren't going to be using that feature aside from all that tap on a file to view it now if you tap on the IE button you're going to see all the information regarding the video clip and swipe to scroll down and you're going to find the data you created using this slate that I showed you in the previous section so another thing you can do is tap the heart button to favorite a clip and this could save you time later when you want to find the best takes if you done a take and uh you think this is a good one then favorite it so that you can find it easier later tap the share button to send your file as you would with the regular iPhone photos app a focus pull is basically a shot where you move move the focus while you're recording and so essentially you want to record the Focus changing and this is going to lead the viewer's eyes from one subject to another subject first of all get an idea of the two points that you want to move between start recording and then flick the focus control so it moves on its own then tap and hold the control when you want it to stop so like I say it's not really ideal but this is my way of sort of getting over the issues that Blackmagic have created with the way that they've designed the focus slider it does take a little bit of practice but unless black magic makes Focus easier to work with we do need some kind of workaround to make Focus PS now if you have an iPhone 15 Pro or Pro Max and you're recording big prores files then you probably want to consider recording directly to an external drive and this is how connect the drive open the Black Magic app go to to settings then media and save Clips to choose files and then navigate to your external drive find a folder that you want to save the files to and then tap open and you should now have a check mark beside files and the folder name to the right now when you hit record any files created are going to be saved directly to this folder on the external drive and you should be able to edit directly from this drive if it's fast enough and you know this means that you don't have to worry about transferring files you just unplug from the iPhone plug into your computer import the files directly from the external drive folder into your editing software and off you go now having to wait for large files to transfer from one drive to another so there's a few more settings under the camera menu that are worth looking at I think at the the top we can enable vertical video and if this is off the Blackmagic app is going to shoot horizontal video even when you hold the phone vertically but actually if you try to record 4K video this way you're not going to get it you will get a reduced resolution if you're filming artificial lights and you're getting strobing or flickering you can try using the anti-flicker shutter speed setting this is going to force your shutter speed to use multiples of 50 or 60 depending on on what you said here so 50 HZ for Europe 60 HZ for USA and if you live somewhere else or you're filming somewhere else you need to look up the electricity Supply frequency for your country it's going to be either 50 or 60 htz lens correction is the same as the equivalent in your iPhone camera settings and it's just going to straighten out any lens Distortion you get say you can avoid those bendy lines so it's purely a creative decision you know some people want the Bendy lines some people don't and there's no rule which says that lines mustn't Bend or anything we also have the anamorphic desqueeze setting so if you're using an anamorphic conversion lens you can use this setting to see the frame Des squeezed in the preview but it's also going to bake this in so that you'll get video which fits the 1.33 time or the 1.55 time aspect ratio the flip image for Sr lens is to be used when you're adding a depth of field adapter such as the one made by Beast grip so there's a number of settings to do with audio for example if you want to record your audio via an external mic connected to your iPhone you can set that here tap audio source and if you have a connected mic it should show up here then you can select it the iPhone microphone setting allows you to choose between the different mics that are built in to your iPhone so in my case I can choose between the back the bottom mic and the front mics below that you can choose the audio format and and I just keep this as AAC record audio as allows you to record audio in different ways so you've got mono which means you'll get the same audio across both the left and the right channels stereo just creates a standard stereo recording dual mono means that you have two tracks of audio but they can be different so it's not like a stereo recording Instead This will be used to record separate microphones on separate tracks for example so usually when we're recording two people talking we want to keep each person's audio separate for easier treatment when we're editing and there's also an option for four Channel recording here presumably for use with a four mic setup although I haven't actually tried this myself and Sample rate you're most likely going to want to keep on auto or 48 [Music] khz the way the Blackmagic app allows you to record a timelapse is a little bit different to other systems go to settings record and toggle on timelaps recording so now you can see how often you want a frame to be captured in this big long list so first you can choose between two and 10 frames so that's a little bit different isn't it I've never actually seen that before but my guess is that if you choose one of these settings it will record one frame of video for every 2 to 10 normal frames uh so it's kind of like a time setting so every two frames would be two time speed every three frames would be three time speed and so on up to 10 times apart from that you have settings in seconds and minutes you can record a frame of video every 1 second up to every 10 minutes so we can do a little bit of maths here just to give you some idea a frame captured every second played back at 30 frames per second would obviously equal 30 times faster than normal normal speed and going right to the other end a frame captured every 10 minutes would be 600 times faster than every 1 second so doing the maths again 30 * 600 = 18,000 times faster than normal speed that's the equivalent of 144 frames per day which would be roughly 5 Seconds of video so what would you use this for maybe something like a time lapse of a building being built where you want it to stretch over weeks or even [Music] months