Attarly Aromatic: On the Trail of Traditional Perfume-Making in India

Introduction

• The article explores the traditional perfume-making industry in Kannauj, India.
• Kannauj is known as the "Grasse of the East" and is famous for its attar production.

Historical Context

• Historical records of perfume-making in India date back to the Brihat Samhita, an encyclopedia by Varahamihira, a 6th-century Indian philosopher.
• During the Mughal era, perfumes were popular among nobles. Emperor Akbar's use of attar is documented in the Ain-e-Akbari.
• The Nawabs of Awadh continued the tradition after the decline of the Mughal dynasty.

What is Attar?

• Attar, also known as ittar, is a natural perfume oil derived from botanical sources.
• Traditionally made by hydro distillation of flowers, herbs, spices, and other natural materials.
• Attar is alcohol-free, making it significant in Islamic culture.

Visiting Kannauj

• Rathina Sankari visits Kannauj to learn about attar-making.
• The city still houses traditional perfumers using age-old methods of extraction.
• Meena Perfumery, operated by Rajat and Amit Mehrotra, exemplifies these practices.

Traditional Attar-Making Process

• Traditional steam-distillation is labor-intensive and skill-based.
• Natural ingredients include rose, kewda, marigold, henna, jasmine, oud, and vetiver.
• Sandalwood oil is a common base, though jojoba is often used due to regulatory restrictions on sandalwood.
• The process requires skilled monitoring to avoid overheating and ruining the perfume.

Challenges and Market

• The demand for traditional attars is declining due to competition from modern fragrances.
• Despite challenges, Kannauj attars have received a geographical indication tag, marking their exclusivity.
• Attars are used in perfumes, scented tobaccos, mouth fresheners, and sweets.

Conclusion

• Attar-making in Kannauj is a time-honored craft passed down through generations.
• The industry faces modern challenges but retains its cultural and historical significance.
• The article highlights the cultural heritage and skilled craftsmanship behind traditional Indian perfumes.