Overview
This lecture covers the life, influence, and innovations of Coco Chanel, detailing her impact on women's fashion, business, and social roles throughout the 20th century.
Early 20th Century Women's Roles & Fashion
- Women were expected to stay at home, care for children, and not pursue business careers.
- Fashionable women wore long dresses and elaborate hats, making mobility difficult and reinforcing their dependency on men.
- Pale skin was prized as a sign of not working outdoors.
Coco Chanel's Entry into Fashion
- Coco Chanel opened her first hat shop in Paris in 1910 with the help of Boy Capel.
- She created simple, elegant hats that contrasted with the ornate styles of the time.
- Chanel designed shorter skirts and loose jackets, promoting comfort and freedom of movement.
War, Opportunity, and Expansion
- World War I forced women into practical roles, making Chanel's simple clothing very popular.
- Chanel expanded her business to Deauville and Biarritz, adapting her designs to different customer needs.
- She sourced fabric from Spain during wartime shortages and grew her workforce to over 300 by 1916.
Post-War Fashion Revolution
- After World War I, society changed and women gained new freedoms, including the right to vote.
- The 1920s saw women embracing short hair, tanned skin, and more active lifestyles.
- Chanel's clothing became internationally popular, including suits, beachwear, and simple dresses.
Business Innovation and Diversification
- Chanel introduced costume jewelry and made short hair fashionable for women.
- She launched Chanel No. 5 perfume in the early 1920s with Pierre Wertheimer.
- Chanel worked with artists and celebrities, expanding her brand’s prestige.
Surviving Crisis and Hollywood
- During the 1929 Wall Street crash, Chanel focused on luxury goods for the wealthy.
- Hollywood producer Sam Goldwyn hired Chanel to design for film stars, though the American public expected more extravagant styles.
Labor, War, and Downturn
- Chanel faced labor strikes in the 1930s, ultimately conceding to worker demands.
- She closed her business as World War II began, lived at the Ritz with a German partner, and tried to take control of her perfume business.
Later Years, Comeback, and Legacy
- After WWII, Chanel lived in Switzerland, living off her perfume royalties.
- Disliking postwar fashion trends, she returned in 1954, facing initial criticism but eventually regaining her status.
- Chanel worked until her death in 1971, leaving a legacy of simple, elegant fashion.
Modern Chanel
- Karl Lagerfeld revitalized the Chanel brand in 1983, expanding into global markets.
- The Chanel name is now associated with fashion, accessories, and cosmetics worldwide.
Key Terms & Definitions
- Coco Chanel — French fashion designer who revolutionized women’s fashion in the 20th century.
- Chanel No. 5 — Iconic perfume launched by Coco Chanel in the 1920s.
- Boy Capel — Businessman and Chanel’s early financial backer.
- Deauville/Biarritz — French towns where Chanel opened successful shops.
- Pierre Wertheimer — Perfume manufacturer and Chanel’s business partner.
- Karl Lagerfeld — Designer who revitalized Chanel in the 1980s.
Action Items / Next Steps
- Review Chanel’s impact on post-WWI women’s roles and fashion.
- Study the relationship between major historical events and business innovation.
- Read about other 20th-century fashion innovators for comparison.