Lecture Notes: Hair Color Techniques and Products

Overview of Hair Color Types

• Semi-Permanent Colors

  • Known as demi-permanent or oxidative without ammonia
  • Contain small color molecules that deposit color without lightening
  • Low ammonia content

• Permanent Colors

  • Penetrate cuticle and cortex
  • Remain until chemically removed or hair grows out
  • Primary ingredient: para-phenylenediamine
  • Require a patch test 24-48 hours prior due to aniline derivatives

• High-Lift Tints

  • Achieve lighter colors
  • Use 30 or 40 volume hydrogen peroxide

Formulation Guidelines

• Color Formulation

  • Understand color wheel and underlying pigments
  • Utilize levels (1-10) to describe lightness/darkness
  • Darker colors have more pigment; lighter colors lift more
  • Important to comprehend pigment concentration for grey hair

• Developers

  • Act as oxidizing agents
  • pH range of 2.5 to 4.5
  • Mixed with alkaline compounds to activate
  • Strength affects lift and deposit
  • Use a hydrometer to measure hydrogen peroxide potency

Application Techniques

• Mixing Instructions

  • Always mix in plastic or glass bowls
  • Metal bowls weaken hydrogen peroxide

• Strand Testing

  • Analyze results before client application
  • Helps in predicting accurate color outcomes

Special Considerations

• Handling Damaged Hair

  • Absorbs more color but retains less

• Lightening Process

  • Use of ammonia to raise pH of peroxide
  • Lighteners go through stages of decolorization
  • Powder lighteners may contain pigments for tone enhancement

• Double-Process Technique

  • Necessary for more than four levels of lightening
  • Involves lightening and recoloring

Practical Tips and Examples

• Corrective Color

  • Neutralize unwanted tones with complementary colors
  • Use appropriate developer strength based on desired lift or deposit

• Common Scenarios

  • Example: Transitioning from dark to medium brown requires neutralizing red undertones with green in the formula
  • Example: Achieving two levels of lift requires adjusting formula with appropriate developer and neutralizing pigments

• Complex Color Formulations

  • Consider texture and porosity
  • Compensate for warmth or missing undertones

Conclusion

• Mastery of oxidative colors expands creative possibilities in hair color services
• Important to affirm understanding through questions and validate learning achievements