There's an overwhelming number of sewing machines out there, and I've been trying to figure out which ones are best for beginners. I researched 56 budget machines and picked seven of the best options to try. I made sure i tested at least two machines from each category: basic mechanical, advanced mechanical, and computerized. I bought four of them myself and drove to sewing machine stores to try the rest, so nothing in this video is sponsored. My tests looked at how easy the machines were to thread, whether they could sew through tricky fabrics, how noisy they were, and much more. And I've got a surprise bonus test at the very end. I've put links in the description below to all the sewing machines mentioned, and if i can negotiate any special discount codes i'll put them there too. If you can't find the description, just go to link . threads monthly . com / beginner machines. If you find this video useful, please consider buying through my links. It basically gives me a commission at NO cost to you, so thank you if you use them! If you're in a rush, skip to this time so that you can see my final picks. My first test was checking if the machines were easy to thread. The Brother innov-is a16 won first place. The threading diagrams printed on the machine are detailed. You can load the bobbin by pressing the start and stop button, so you don't need to keep your foot on the pedal for ages. It has a quick- set bobbin design, so you don't need to pull up the bobbin thread, removing a step on your to-do list. And it has the best needle threader, you just slide the thread into the slit and pull the lever down. Whereas these machines have a tricky needle threader. You have to hold the thread taut to get it around the hook, and then hold it against the needle with some pressure, and then this thing is tiny and hard to see. It's just fiddly. The machines ranked at the bottom had very minimal threading instructions, if any, and i found this diagram on the singer 1306 so confusing. I threaded it wrong twice, so the thread kept popping out while i was sewing, and the manual didn't do a great job of explaining it either. The machines with front loading bobbins were harder to use. I had to remember which direction the thread needed to go and the bobbin casing sometimes refused to go in. Top loading bobbins are much easier to insert and you can see when you're almost out of thread which is useful. I then sewed different fabrics to see how the machines handled them. Sewing cotton was easy for all the machines. The Singer 1306 did jam though, which is a problem with front loading machines. The threads sometimes get tangled in the bobbin area. All the machines struggled with some puckering on the chiffon and silk tests. Balancing the tension on the Singer 1306 was the hardest. I made so many changes to the top and bobbin tensions, but never managed to get a smooth seam. All the machines could sew eight layers of denim, surprisingly, but i don't think this test has any real-world use. Flat layers were fine, it was the seam allowance humps that were the problem. When i hemmed denim, the machines often got stuck on the humps and needed a push, and the stitch lengths were uneven. The Brother a16 didn't get stuck and made the least amount of noise, so i'm assuming it was the most powerful. The stitches did get smaller going over the hump though, like all the others. They all struggled with thick fleece. The motors sounded like they were working hard. And they all had uneven stitch lengths on the humps. I also wanted to sew real projects, so i made zipper pouches using faux leather and cotton canvas. All the machines hated top-stitching faux leather. The sticky surface was the problem. The standard feet really struggled to feed the fabric; they created drag lines and tiny stitches, and they got stuck a lot. On the plus side, most of the machines sewed over the seam allowance humps without getting stuck. The Brother a16 basically glided over them. It was only the Singer 3342 that got stuck occasionally, but they all sounded like they were working harder sewing this many layers. Power isn't really the biggest strength of budget machines. I put these computerized machines in joint first place for the zipper pouch test. They made the least amount of noise when sewing the pouches and the stitches were more consistent, so it looks like they were more powerful. And they included useful overcasting stitches and feet to reduce fraying. My last project was making a stretchy headband. Most of the machines stretched out the jersey, except for these three. And none of the machines had adjustable foot pressure, so i couldn't use that to reduce the stretching. Only tissue paper helped. The top layer often shifted because it wasn't being fed at the same rate as the bottom layer, so i was always stopping to try and match the edges. And something isn't quite right about the stitches when i look at them up close - they seem a bit puckered. I did try different tensions between three and four, but more experimenting is needed really. Sometimes i had problems with skipped stitches, especially with the Brother 15. I tried three different needles but still couldn't figure out the cause. And when i joined the headband pieces together i had to go over nine layers of fabric and elastic. Some of the machines got stuck and they all created messy bird's nests and uneven stitches. Ultimately they did join all the layers together and created strong seams, but they weren't pretty. I also managed to get the jersey stuck in the Brother a16 and fs40 because i sewed over accidental folds in the fabric and the needle just pushed it straight down the hole. I don't think any of the machines were amazing on the jersey test, but in joint first place i put the three machines that didn't stretch out the fabric. I then used an app to measure how noisy each machine was at slow, medium, and high speeds. None of them were silent, but the computerized machines were definitely quieter and made a smoother sound. The singer 1306 was the worst. It sounded so rattly and loud. And the others were in between. My next test was seeing how easy the machines were to use. I put all three computerized machines in joint first place. They can sew the slowest, which is great for careful tasks like top stitching. Choosing stitches is easy; each number represents one stitch. And you don't need to guess stitch length and width settings because they're preset. You can override them if you want full control though. They have top loading bobbins which are more reliable, they don't really get jammed like front loading machines do. I like the reminders that stop user errors like sewing a buttonhole without this lever down, or reminding you to swap feet. If you have arthritis, the buttons on computerized machines are much gentler on your hands. Most of the backstitch levers need a lot of pressure to push down and hold, so that might hurt after a while. And you don't need to constantly turn the hand wheel to raise or lower the needle, you can use the needle up and down button instead. And the brother manuals also have an amazing stitch chart at the back. It explains all the stitches, when to use them, and what fabrics they suit. The Brother ls14s and Singer 1306 are also simple to use. The settings are preset, so you don't need to do much to start sewing, but you can't change the stitch length and width either so it's limiting. The lighting is kind of terrible. The bulbs are on the left, creating distracting shadows on the seam allowance guides. And the thread often jumps out of the needle which is so annoying. So you have to waste a lot of thread creating really long thread tails. I had this issue with the Singer 3342 as well. The Singer 1306 also can't sew very slowly, it jump starts quite fast. I had two big problems with the Janome j3-24 and singer 3342. First, stitch selection is more complicated. Each stitch selector represents two or three different stitches. It can be confusing knowing what stitch you're on and how to switch between them. Second, you need to come up with your own stitch length and width settings for everything. It involves so much guessing and experimenting. i just think there are too many decisions to make before you can start sewing. The Singer 3342 also has the presser foot lifter right at the back, so it's awkward using it. And i don't like how brief its manual is. It doesn't even explain what all the stitches are. And finally, i don't like how you change the presser feet on the two Singers. They don't have a button that releases the foot. You have to pull the foot off and push it on with some force. I managed to cut my finger on the feed dogs doing this. If you're interested in making clothes, you want a machine with good buttonholes, a good range of stitches, lots of feet, and a free arm for sewing tubes. The computerized machines make the neatest buttonholes and they have multiple styles. The fs40 has five options and the 15 and a16 have three. All the others only give you one buttonhole style. It's also easier to sew buttonholes with the computerized machines. You don't need to figure out the right stitch length and width because they're preset. You don't need to keep your foot on the pedal for ages because they have a start and stop button. You don't need to measure your button. And you don't need to hand knot the ends to stop the buttonhole unraveling, they use a lock stitch. It's fully automatic. The only adjustment i made was reducing the stitch length for a fuller-looking stitch, but that's just personal preference. The Singer 1306 and Brother ls14s are completely manual, so you need to draw your buttonhole lengths and control when each section starts and ends. I don't think their buttonholes look as good as the computerized ones either. And the ls14s's buttonholes initially looked unbalanced, so i had to turn this screw to fix it. In last place was the singer 3342, surprisingly. It's supposed to have a one-step automatic buttonhole, but it was the worst. I couldn't get the button measuring system to work and i still haven't figured out why. I originally pushed it to be like that, and then as it sews the buttonhole it just like seems to go like that and then completely ruin the measurement of the button. I've tried so many times, i've read the manual loads of times, followed lots of video tutorials, like i just can't figure it out. Is it me? Is it a faulty machine? I have no idea, it's driving me crazy. Even if it did work, i didn't like having to manually change lots of settings. I was never sure when to stop, so my end points got really bulky. And the machine doesn't really secure the end of the buttonhole to stop it unraveling. Overall, this machine is just too much work and i don't think the buttonholes look as good as the computerized ones, they're too spaced out for me. The fs40 has the best variety of stitches for dress making; there are lots of useful stretch and overcasting ones. The fs40 also has the most dress making feet included. It comes with seven feet, and the version i bought included a wide table. And the Brother 15 and a16 have six feet. The blind hem ones are so essential, i can never blind hem properly without them. And the overcasting feet are nice for wrapping thread around the edges of fabric to reduce fraying, kind of like a serger or overlocker machine. The cheapest machines only come with three feet: the standard zigzag one, a zipper foot, and a manual buttonhole foot. Most of the machines had free arms that were too big and rectangular for my jean hemming task, so i had to sew them this way. I wish the free arms were smaller and more rounded. The ones on the Singer 3342 and Janome j3-24 were much better though. I think all the machines are good enough for basic quilting, except the singer 1306. I sewed some quilting samples with two layers of fabric and one layer of two millimeter batting. They all handled it well even without a walking foot. I think i only saw one accidental pleat. I did find it hard to sew straight with the Singer 1306 and Brother ls14s though. Even with lines drawn on, they kept wandering off course slightly. For big quilts, throat space is important to know. I rolled a 100 inch king size quilt into each machine, and they could all handle it! Okay, it was definitely a tight squeeze for the fs40 because of its curved design, but it did fit. The other untested machines should be fine too because they have similar throat space measurements. Most of the machines have quilting feet available, but you do need to buy them separately. According to the manual though, the Singer 1306 doesn't have a walking foot available so that's a problem. A walking foot makes sure the top and bottom layers are fed through the machine evenly, so shifting and pleating doesn't happen. If you're planning to travel a lot with your machine, you probably want something light and portable. All the machines have some type of handle, so you can carry them. In terms of weight, i could hold the machines under six kilograms in one hand but anything over that was more of a struggle. I have to say i'm not strong though. I'm genuinely surprised at how light the fs40 is for a computerized machine. And these two Brother machines are the heaviest, but i also think they're the best quality ones in the test, so that's the trade-off. And only the Janome comes with a hard cover which is quite rare for budget machines. Now let's talk about quality. Realistically, cheap mass manufactured machines aren't as powerful, there are more plastic parts inside, weaker metals are used, and manufacturers aren't as strict about quality control so they don't mind if things don't fit together tightly or the metals don't meet a certain standard. Sewing machine stores told me that if you want a better quality machine that lasts longer, you need to spend at least 300 pounds. So something like the Brother a16 as a minimum. I also know there's a lot of fear about computerized sewing machines going wrong and that you can't repair them yourself. I know i used to think this and when my basic mechanical machine did go wrong, i realized - wait - i can barely diagnose the problem, let alone fix it myself. Computerized or not, i'd have to get it repaired by a professional and the cost would be similar. So a mechanical service is 58 whereas a computerized machine would be 65. Oh okay, that's not actually that big of a difference. No. So if you're like me, i wouldn't choose a machine because you think you can fix it yourself. Go for one that meets your needs and is the easiest to use. I also asked four sewing machine stores if we're right to fear computerized machines. They all said no. Today's modern computerized machines very rarely go wrong and will last for many years. I think yes in the early days there certainly were issues to be fair um... but generally they are very reliable. There's always the odd chance something can go wrong as there is with everything else we buy, but do we have big problems with them? No we don't. I was told the electronics are pretty simple. Worst case scenario, replacing a main master board could get expensive, but three of the stores said it rarely happens. It's not a common problem. Are there any other common things that go wrong then with computerized machines? Not really that's different to mechanical machines. So i wouldn't worry about computerized machines, i think the fear around them has been blown out of proportion. Overall they are reliable machines. With all of that in mind, here are my recommendations. I really like the Brother a16 for ease of use and power. It's the easiest to thread, the needle threader is the best design i've seen. It has all the stitches you actually need, including stretch and overcasting ones. The buttonholes are also really nice. It can sew slower and quieter than other machines. It has speed control so you can't accidentally go too fast. And the lock stitch is a neater alternative to back stitching. The main limitations are that it doesn't have as many stitches as other machines, mainly the fun embroidery ones. And like all the other machines tested, it found jersey a challenge. Tissue paper did stop most of the problems though. It handled thick layers better than the others, but mid-range and premium machines will still have more power. Overall i think it's the best machine for beginners who enjoy sewing, but don't want to spend too much. There are definitely enough features that you can grow with it for years. If you're not interested in sewing as a hobby. i recommend the Brother ls14s. This is for you if you just need a cheap machine for repairing things or hemming trousers a few times a year. All the settings are pre-set so it's easier to use. It has the most important stitches. And i prefer its top loading bobbin, it's more reliable than front loading ones which jam a lot. You'll have to sacrifice power, build quality, and stitch control, but it's good enough to get simple tasks done and a really good price. I've linked to these machines in the description below, and if i can negotiate any special discount codes i'll put them there too. If you can't find the description box just go to link . threads monthly . com / beginner-machines. I've linked to where you can buy them in multiple countries. Don't forget to buy thread and needles with your new sewing machine. I recommend general purpose polyester thread because it's stronger than cotton. You'll need universal needles for fabric that doesn't stretch. Size 80/12 is good for most projects, size 70 is for really thin fabric, and size 90 for thick fabric. And get ballpoint needles for stretchy fabric. Again size 80/12 is good for most projects. And remember that surprise bonus test i promised you? Here it is. You might be wondering what the difference is between budget machines and the next level up, mid-range ones. Here's my personal machine to demonstrate. These are the main differences i found between this and budget machines. One, the feed dogs have a much better grip on the fabric so it's easier to sew straight. The fabric doesn't wander slightly to the left or right. And the stitches are consistent even if the sewing speed changes, whereas the stitch length on the budget machines gets smaller or longer depending on your speed. Two, it's more powerful. The other machines had to work quite hard on the zipper pouch test, you could hear it, but this didn't. Three, you get a thread cutter. This is such a nice feature. You won't have to use the side cutter anymore which always seems to miss one thread. It wastes less thread because the thread tails are so short, and yet you never have issues with the thread jumping out of the needle. And finally, it just has more stitches including monogramming. This is amazing if you want to personalize gifts with people's names. If those four things are important to you, and you have the budget, it might actually