The Elizabethan Ruff: A Fashion Statement

Overview

• Definition: Large, stiff, upright, laced collar.
• Purpose: Indicator of wealth, prestige, and social status.

Historical Context

• Emerged in the Elizabethan era.
• Symbolized excess and impracticality.
• Required servants for maintenance due to complexity.

Evolution and Features

• Materials: Embroidery, jewels, precious metals.
• Design: Grew elaborate to show impracticality; not designed for movement.
• Accessories: Required long utensils for eating due to restricted movement.

Symbolism

• Wearing ruffs indicated one did not perform manual labor.
• Became a social taboo not to wear one among the upper class.
• Also associated with improved posture and confidence.

Technological Advancements

• Starch Introduction (1564): Helped maintain shape and increased size.
• Goffering Irons: Introduced structured shapes in ruffs.

Fabric and Construction

• Materials: Initially a shirt extension, became separate accessory.
• Fabric Use: Varied by region; Spanish ruffs used more fabric than English.
• Support: Wires and boards used to maintain shape.

Queen Elizabeth's Influence

• Enforced ruff trends and dimensions.
• Issued proclamations against excessive ruffs, but often ignored by the wealthy.

Cultural Criticism

• Criticized by Puritans as a symbol of excess.
• Philip Stubbes notably decried them as non-virtuous.

Color and Dye

• Ruffs could be dyed various colors; initially white in paintings.
• Banned blue starch due to political reasons.

Style Variations

• Open Front Ruffs: Emerged in the 1590s for women, framing the head.
• Closed Ruffs: Tubular pleats, accompanied by wide-brimmed hats.

Maintenance

• Time-consuming preparation; required special carrying cases.
• Servants tasked with maintaining and pinning ruffs.

Transition to Falling Ruffs

• Developed in the early 17th century.
• Characteristics: Pleats attached to neckline, hung over shoulders.
• Adapted by women around 1615; functioned as small capes.

Conclusion

• Ruffs were a complex fashion statement in Elizabethan society.
• They reflected wealth, societal status, and the impracticality was a symbol of luxury.