Irving Penn: A Master of Fashion Photography

Introduction

• Irving Penn's Contribution to Vogue:
  • 165 covers over 66 years.
  • Integral to Vogue's identity.

Early Life and Education

• Birth and Background:
  • Born in 1917 in Plainfield, New Jersey.
  • Russian Jewish parents.
• Education:
  • Studied at the Philadelphia Museum School of Industrial Art.
  • Influenced by surrealist artists.

Career Beginnings

• Early Work Experience:
  • Assistant to Alexey Brodovitch at Harper's Bazaar.
  • Art director at Saks Fifth Avenue.

Transition to Photography

• Journey and Inspiration:
  • Traveled to the American South and Mexico.
  • Shifted from painting to photography.
• Joining Vogue:
  • Hired by Alexander Liberman.
  • Encouraged to take photographs himself.
  • First Vogue cover: October 1, 1943.

Personal and Professional Life

• Military Service:
  • Volunteered for the American Field Service in 1944.
• Post-War Career:
  • Returned to Vogue in 1946.
  • Known for minimalist style in portraiture.

Notable Techniques and Works

• 'Corner' Portraits:
  • Subjects photographed in a confined corner.
  • Technique used to reveal personality.
• Small Trades Series:
  • Photographed working-class individuals.
  • Equal treatment of subjects.

Key Photographic Assignments

• Peru Assignment:
  • 1948 assignment to photograph in Peru.
  • Captured indigenous Peruvians in Cusco.
• Collaboration with Fashion Models:
  • Close work with Lisa Fonssagrives.

Influence and Style

• 1950s and 1960s Work:
  • Blended photography with fashion silhouettes.
  • Worked with designers like Dior and Balenciaga.
• Shift in Fashion Photography:
  • Photographed the evolving fashion styles.
  • Worked with models like Jean Shrimpton and Lauren Hutton.

Collaborations and Commercial Work

• Clinique Campaigns:
  • Still life photography style.
• Issey Miyake Collaboration:
  • Reinterpreted clothing designs through photography.

Later Years and Legacy

• Work with Phyllis Posnick:
  • Bold and captivating photography for Vogue.
  • Continued creativity until his passing in 2009.

Unique Printing Techniques

• Platinum and Palladium Prints:
  • Developed unique printing process.
  • Enhanced depth and tone in photos.

Legacy

• Impact on Photography:
  • Intelligent and visually arresting work.
  • Immortalized in the history of visual arts.