Boot Terminology

Shoe Last

• A mold used to stretch and shape the leather to form the boot.
• Different lasts exist for every size and shape.

Vamp

• The lower part of the boot, covering toe to instep and around the sides.
• Ideally made from one piece of leather.
• Process called "lasting" involves pulling back over the shoe last, nailing, sculpting, drying, and turning out at the welt.

Heel Counter

• Back section of leather covering heel up to Achilles Tendon.
• Attached over the vamp on sides.
• Designed to cup the heel and reduce slippage.

Backstay

• Strip of leather above heel counter connecting upper halves.
• Acts as stabilizer.

Tongue

• Flexible leather patch under laces.
• Typically folded for full shin coverage.
• Cushions foot and distributes lacing pressure.

Upper

• Leather section from ankle up.
• Made from 4 pieces, connecting with backstay.
• Heights vary from 4 to 16 (mid-calf).

Hooks/Eyelets

• Metal hardware used for lacing.
• Stretch from vamp to upper.

False Tongue (Kilties)

• Leather piece protecting boot tongue from debris.
• Adds a layer between laces and tongue.

Welt

• Leather strip around sole edge.
• Connects vamp and insole with stitching.

Shank

• Located between heel and ball of foot for arch support.
• Made from two stacked leather pieces.

Lineman Shank/Half Slip

• Adds arch support for climbing and jobs requiring direct impact on arch.
• Makes sole under arch flat for stability.

Toe Cap

• Leather strip covering vamp over toe.
• Reinforces toe without steel or composite.
• Often a stylistic feature.

Steel Toe/Composite Toe

• Steel toe for protection from falling objects and strain.
• Composite toe made of plastics for rigidity, suited for electricians.

Stitchdown Construction

• Stitching style attaching vamp to outsole.

Pull Loop

• Leather strap at back-top of boot, common in high-tops.

Bottom

• Consists of insole, midsole, outsole, shank, and cover.
• Insole is nailed to boot last; vamp is stretched and dried.
• Outsole is stitched into welt.

Insole

• Part of boot touching foot, conforming to foot shape.

Midsole

• Barrier between interior and outsole.
• Softer midsoles break in faster, tougher ones last longer.

Outsole

• Final sole layer, connected to boot bottom.
• Vibram branded soles used in some boots.