I'm making my own msla printer based on the Arduino code and it should be an awesome project so you might want to stay till the end after a lot of testing I finally made the pcbs that I wanted one PCB for the UV light control one for the TFT display creating their shapes one PCB for the main control and one smaller PCB for the buttons and the display interface I've also designed a 3D body for the printer but I haven't assembled the printer yet so in this video you'll be the first to witness how it goes I want to assemble the pcbs and give them a test and see how the code is running if everything is okay I assemble the final printer and get a final product as you can see this is a complex project and it requires a lot of components so at any time things might not work so guys let's get started what's up my friends welcome back this project is coming for a long time and it's quite complex with a lot of components Motors displays pcbs and a lot of smaller other parts for now I have these four beautiful pcbs designed for the msla printer if you remember my first test were made with a smaller TFT display of only 128 pixels but this time I will use this 4in display with a size of 90 x 60 mm so it's a lot better this PCB will hold the screen in place and also an endstop switch this other PCB is the main controller and it will have the microcontroller and the drivers this other PCB here is for the ultraviolet LEDs and it will get on top of the main PCB and finally this small PCB is for the buttons control and the OLED display so if you want to try this project download my Gerbers From Below then I go to PCB way.com and click the code now button for each PCB I insert the size and the amount in my case for the color I select the black one which is my favorite and PCB way makes them very nice on the next page upload the Gerber files that you have just downloaded from my website place the order and I received the pcbs in just a couple of days and they look amazing as always so now we have these four pcbs so let's begin this is the UV light PCB it has the pads for 18 UV LEDs like these ones and because this will dissipate a lot of heat on the other side I've designed a PCB with exposed copper and to limit the current we also need to add some power resistors so I get the LEDs and the resistors and solder them to the PCB and now the board is ready I test it with my power supply and it works quite well and using 11 volts it draws 1.6 amps of current having so many LEDs we assure that we will have a more uniform light below so the resin would solidify uniformly next I solder the display PCB but before that we need a display so get a module like this one and we need to remove the red PCB and the backlight first I remove the LCD from the PCB module it's just glued in place and be careful not to break the LCD open the metal case and remove all the white sheets and the LEDs you should end up with just the screen module and now we have to solder this to the screen PCB it has this flat connector of 48 pins one soldered in place with the screen and the PCB flat on the table on each corner I solder a piece of solid wire and press them against the display because this will hold the screen in place and on the top side I also add some Captain tape and that's it on the bottom side I also add this connector for the flat cable I add that flat cable and this PCB is done for now we have the LED board and the display board as well so next is the main control board to assemble this one we need an esp32 like this one we also need a DC jack an SD card reader module the step motor driver some mosfets connectors buttons and the small components check the schematic and the full part list on my website first I solder the DC jack and the power regulation part then I connect 12 volts at the input and check the voltages for 5 volts and 3.3 volts if that is okay I solder the esp32 the buttons and the Pull-Ups so I could test if it works once it's solder on the side we have this Ur Port I connect an ftdi programmer and upload the test cetch for the TFT display I also add the connector and I connect the display PCB to this main PCB in order to see something I have to place a light behind the display because now it doesn't have the back light anymore but look we can see the example code so both the ESP and the display are working properly next we add the mosfets for controlling the UV light then as you can see this PCB has four pads here and on this I have to Soler some mail pins like this and on top I will place the UV LEDs boort like that we have some free space in between so the PCB could act as a heat sync I upload another code and I check if I can turn on and off the LEDs with 12 volts for my power supply I apply power and the LED board is now blinking but now unfortunately I've made a very bad mistake I've used the pins 39 34 and 35 for controlling the step motor driver and because I'm not yet 100% familiar with the esp32 well those pins can only be set as inputs so we can't test this stepper driver so we can't finish the printer for today but at least we know that the display and the light are working I will have to change the board and order it once again but anyway once I have the board this will be the connections a stepper motor would be connected to the main board on these pins an end stop switch like this one would be connected here the button PCB is connected to the main board here on this pads and the screen PCB is also connected to the main board the UV this board just goes on top of the main board we also need to add the SD card card reader on these pins here so now just to make a test on my PC I open Cheto box software and I create a profile for my printer with the resolution and the size of my screen I import an object I slice it and when I save the result I select export as a zip file if I open that file we can see each layer of the object I copy all these pictures to an empty SD card I add that card to the mainboard module now I run a test code and as you can see we print the shapes on the screen I also change the code and now each time I print a new picture I also turn on the UV light just as a printer would do so now I know that the SD card reader and the display are working so basically we would be ready to go if the stepper driver would also be working as well for this project I spent a few weeks designing the enclosure but it's not perfect yet it has the main case the z-axis tower a small part for the stepper motor and another smaller part for the buttons and the display I've printed all these parts using pla material and it took a few days to finish it inside of the main case the controller board will go like this it's made in such a way that the LEDs will go exactly below the display then as you can see the case has this perimeter and here is where the LCD PCB will go like this for the stepper motor I found this one that has directly a linear screw on it so we don't need to add a coupler so we save some space and this motor will go on this smaller part with some emp3 screws and then this part will get sandwiched between the main case and the z-axis tower part and for the z-axis part I bought this linear bearing slider it will cost you just a few dollars and it will get screwed in place on top of this printed part and with the screen PCB on top it will look like this but unfortunately the rest should be for the next video because I haven't finished the design yet and we still have that small error on the PCB on the other hand for the printing table I want to use this aluminum block and to add movement I want to use this ball connector so it could move freely in all directions for when you want to calibrate the first layer we have a few more parts that we need to go over but I will finish those on my next video because this one is already too long and I still have to finish a few parts by then I will also have the final code now that I know that all the parts are working I also have to design the resin bath to work with those faap films and to be water sealed something like this one so what do you think it looks promising or not comment your opinion below and stay tuned for the next part where I hope that I will get to test it and print something with resin I also need to fix some small errors as for example the SD card position is very bad it's very difficult to reach the SD card reader so maybe you will need to use some tweezers or something like that I also want to make a protective transparent case out of acrylic and these red sheets so we protect the resin inside from the light from the outside so stay tuned for all that thanks again and see you later guys so guys here I am in my workshop another video that ended I hope that you like it and the most important part I hope that you have learned something new anyway I just wanted to give a thank you to all my patrons to you guys to the viewers who are supporting me liking my content sharing it commenting below uh just check my website check my shop check my t-shirts all this kind of stuff will support my channel so thank you very much much once again