Nova's "Everest – The Death Zone"

Introduction

• The episode revisits the infamous 1996 Everest tragedy, where 8 climbers died in one day.
• Focus on the effects of high altitude on the human body and mind.
• Exploration of hypoxia and its impact on judgment and mental state.
• Supported by Park Foundation, Northwestern Mutual Life, and the Corporation for Public Broadcasting.

The Challenges of Everest

• Altitude & Environment:
  • Everest is over 5.5 miles above sea level, where air is thin and not life-sustaining.
  • "Death Zone" above 26,000 feet, where acclimatization is impossible.
• Historical Context:
  • 1996 disaster partially attributed to hypoxia.
  • For every six successful summits, one person dies.

Oxygen Deprivation

• Symptoms and Effects:
  • Impaired judgment, confusion, hallucinations.
  • Physical deterioration and extreme exhaustion.

David Breashears and 1996 Incident

• Breashears filmed an IMAX movie on Everest during the 1996 storm.
• Assisted in rescues, but some climbers were beyond help.
• Returns for another expedition focusing on high-altitude effects.

Scientific Study on Climbers

• Baseline Tests: Conducted at University of Washington.
  • Key Focus: Lung capacity, heart rate, oxygen saturation.
  • Physiological Responses: Increased breathing, heart rate, red blood cell production.
  • Brain Impact: Potential long-term brain damage from repeated high-altitude exposure.

Climbing Strategy

• Ascend in stages to acclimatize.
• Multiple ascents and descents between camps to adapt.
• Sherpas play a critical role in supporting expeditions.

Risks and Equipment

• Khumbu Icefall:
  • Dangerous due to shifting ice.
  • Fixed ropes and ladders essential.
• Hyperbaric Chambers: Used for treating severe altitude sickness.

Psychological and Cognitive Testing

• Tests Conducted at Altitude:
  • Cognitive functions and speech assessed.
  • Psychometric tests reveal cognitive slowing.

Climbing Incidents and Challenges

• Sherpas also vulnerable to altitude sickness.
• A Sherpa's death due to high-altitude pulmonary edema highlighted the risks.
• Evacuations are critical for severe cases.

Summit Push

• Camp 3 to Summit:
  • Final push through Death Zone.
  • Psychological and physical toll is immense.

Notable Achievements

• Ed Viesturs becomes the first non-Sherpa to summit Everest five times.
• David Breashears achieves his fourth summit.

Health Impacts and Observations

• David Carter's Struggles:
  • Experienced severe altitude sickness and respiratory issues.
  • His condition highlighted the unpredictable nature of Everest’s challenges.
• Scientific Findings:
  • Post-climb MRI showed mild brain atrophy in climbers.
  • The need for further research on long-term effects of high-altitude climbing.

Conclusion

• David Breashears reflects on the climb, contemplating another ascent in the future.
• The 1996 incident remains a sober reminder of Everest's formidable challenges.
• Urgent need for understanding high-altitude effects on the human body and mind.

Additional Resources

• Viewers are encouraged to explore more about climbing and altitude effects through PBS resources and videos.