so we are on page 455 again chapter 11 hair removal okay let's talk about explaining the importance of hair removal so consumers in the united states you guys they spend millions of dollars a year on hair removal products and services and we want half of that don't we by offering waxing services to our clients so today hair removal methods range from procedures such as waxing and tweezing so two more advanced techniques that require special training like for example laser hair removal and electrolysis intense post light ipl face and body hair removal has become increasingly popular as evolving technology makes it easier to perform with more effective results for both men and women for aesthetic purposes sport performance estheticians should study and again have a thorough understanding of hair removal because the growing popularity of hair removal makes up a large part of a salon business and is one of the most lucrative services offered so waxing is the most common method of hair removal in salons making it an important service to learn because proficient you know you want to be proficient in it and you want to provide it so understanding the benefits the risk and how to perform various techniques is a vital it's a vital part to becoming and being an esthetician and of course being successful and in this very profitable market right you definitely want to know what you're doing when it comes to all the services that you will be offering knowing what method to use the room room preparation safety and of course infection control procedures are very important part of removal procedures and of course practices all right please highlight and put a star next to the following we are on page 456 describe the structure of hair put a star next to the scientific study of hair and its diseases is called trichology okay trichology the average human is born with skin that houses approximately 5 million pillow sebaceous units capable of producing hair it is important to understand all aspects of hair including its structure its appendages and the types of hair found on the body this will help you to suggest and provide the best hair removal service to all of your clients next the hair follicle and its appendages please put a star next to the following a hair follicle is a mass of epidermal cells forming a small tube okay please highlight that a small tube or canal follicles extend deep into the dermis the phyllo sebaceous unit okay contains the hair follicle and its appendages which include the hair root the hair bulb hair papilla hair shaft and the erector pili muscle and sebaceous glands and as you guys can see there's a picture of it on page bottom of page 456 all right 457 at the top follicular canal so the follicular canal is lined with the epidermal tissue these epidermal cells produce the follicle and hair matrix the matrix is where cell mitosis happens okay that's where division starts to happen the hair root and i have all of that highlighted you guys so the hair root anchors hair to the skin cells and is part of the hair located at the bottom of the follicle below the surface of the skin the root is part of the hair that lies within the follicle at its base where the hair grows please put a star next to hair bulb the hair bulb is a thick club shaped structure made from epithelial cells that surround the papilla this forms the lower part or base of the hair follicle this is where hair grows from cell division the lower part of the bulb fits over and covers the papilla the hair bulb contains the dividing cell of the hair matrix that produces the hair in both the external root sheath okay and internal root she's lining the follicle the external root sheath is made of horny epidermal tissue the internal sheath is the innermost layer of the follicle closest to the hair the internal sheath is the thick layer of cells you see attached to the base of the hair when epilating it all right here propilla it is a cone-shaped elevation of connective tissue that contains the capillaries and nerves located at the base of the follicle that fits into the bulb the hair pop peel are necessary for hair growth and nourishment of of the follicle the blood vessels bring nutrients to the base of the bulb causing it to grow and form new hair sensory nerves surround the base of the follicle then we have the hair shaft so the hair shaft is defined as part of the hair located above the surface of the skin as cell division within the hair matrix happens the hair grows and gets longer keratinization is completed by this time these cells approach the skin excuse me a curse the hair grows and gets longer keratinization is completed by the time these cells approach the skin surface where the hair shaft protrudes from the skin that's where we're able to see it this is similar to skin cell division and migration so the basal cells in the hair matrix divide and form the three main layers of the hair the hair shaft the cuticle the cortex and the medulla the cuticle is the outer most layer the cortex is the metal and the medulla is the center or the innermost layer of the hair shaft the two outer layers of the shaft are hard keratin and the inner layer is soft keratin okay please highlight and put a star next to the following the sebaceous gland secrete that waxy substance called sebum which lubricates the skin and hair this helps keep the skin supple and waterproof and protects against external factors alright top of page 458 the erector pili muscle contracts when affected by cold and other stimuli it pulls on the follicles and forces the hair to stand erect causing goosebumps we've talked a little bit about the erector pili muscle when we were going over the different layers of the skin i hope you guys can remember that this reaction is also thought to keep the skin warmer by creating an air pocket under the upright hairs the muscle contraction also helps disperse the protective lipids from the sebaceous glands to the skin and to the hair all right so list the types of hair there are three major types of hair to be found on the human body here we go we have lenugo vella's hair and terminal hair okay so let's start with lenovo please put a star next to lanugo and highlight it lanugo is soft downy hair that is found on a fetus okay the lanugo hair sheds after birth and is then replaced with either vellus hair or terminal hair vellus hair you guys is found in areas that are not covered by large coarser terminal hairs so for example vellus hair usually grows on our cheeks right also known as peach fuzz removing vellus hair especially against the hair growth can result in the follicles producing new terminal hair so it is not recommended to tweeze shave or wax these fine hairs okay do we do it anyway we do don't we all right terminal hair terminal hair is the longer coarser hair that is found on someone's beard our eyebrows our lashes genitals arms and legs so with hormone changes during puberty the follicles are naturally regulated to switch from producing vellus hair to producing terminal hair in these areas so it becomes a lot thicker coarser right all right now let's talk about the hair growth cycle this is very important i always say that in every chapter i know i'm sorry but everything's important but put a star next to the following hair growth is a result of the activity of cells found in the basal layer so these cells are found within the hair bulb hair growth occurs in three different stages we have the anagen catagen and telogen a c t a c t antigen catagen and telogen these stages you guys vary in duration on different parts of the body okay so for example scalp hair okay has a longer anagen phase so the hair on the scalp can grow down to the knees in some cases can you believe how you know would you want to have hair down to your knees that is very long so conversely eyelashes have a relatively short duration of the anagen phase before shedding and being replaced and being replaced which is why we do not need to get our eyelashes trimmed because they simply just fall off right these cycles can also be determined and affected by many factors including age genetics hormones and a person's health and prescription drugs so again using the acronym act act to remember the growth stages sequence hair follicles in any given part of the body will be a different that they will be in different faces at any given time okay even our eyelashes they grow at different times so anagen if you look at um on page 459 at the very top so we have the anagen phase again catagen telogen and then it returns back to the anagen phase so anagen will be those tiny small i'm just gonna work with lashes to give you guys an example so the smaller lashes that are perhaps in your inner corner or in between the middle of your lashes they are perhaps at the anagen phase baby lashes your catagen will be your medium length lashes and then your telogen lashes which tend to be more noticeable sometimes in the middle of your um eyelashes they are the longer lashes that will soon just shed right and then return back to a new cycle so again that's a really good picture there on top of page 459 so again let's start from the beginning anagen phase please highlight those first two sentences the anagen phase is the growth stage during which new hair is produced okay new keratinized cells are manufactured in the hair follicle during the anagen stage activity is greater in the hair bulb which pushes down into the dermis and swells with cell mitosis in the matrix stem cells at the junction between the erector peeling muscle and the new follicle grow downward and stimulate cell mitosis in the matrix new cells form hair and root sheaths while the older part of the hair is pushed upward once the hair has reached its full length you guys it can remain there for weeks or even years depending on the location of the hair in the body so for example the hair on our scalp okay will be there until what until we cut it or it's dry and damaged and it just kind of falls off right so oh there goes hair on the scalp okay remains in the anagen phase for years other areas like eyelashes have a short anagen phase the length of the anagen phase determines the length of the hair okay this stage is the most important stage for estheticians and effective hair removal all right next page page 460 at the very top please highlight and put a star next to the following as removing hairs during the anagen stage will be more effective for long-term hair reduction all right next will be the catagen catagen phase you guys they will ask you about the hair growth cycle on your state board exam okay so there's no way around this you want to remember these anagen catagen intelligent act okay all right the catagen phase is the transition stage of hair growth in the catagen stage mitosis seizes the hair excuse me the hair having completed its growing phase detaches itself from the derma papilla the follicles degenerates and collapses as epidermal tissue retracts upward hair loses its inner root sheath and becomes drier the mature hair is now referred to as a club hair okay the base looks like a club this is the shortest part of the hair growth cycle put a star next to telogen all right telogen highlight it the intelligent phase is the final or resting stage of hair growth during the telogen stage the club hair moves up the follicle and is ready to shed the hair is at its full size and length and is erect in the follicle it is clearly visible above the skin surface unless it has already shed right the hair bulb is not active and the hair is released and it is attached only by epidermal cells hair may sit in the follicle until it is pushed out by a new anagen hair or falls out on its own in some cases the hair may share the follicle with a new antigen hair giving the appearance of two hairs coming out from a single follicle i don't know if you guys have ever seen it but it is possible and you might start to notice it especially as you start to do underarm waxing okay the appearance okay the empty and dormant follicle is latent okay until the cycle begins again with a new anagen phase i think i've even seen like three hairs come out of one follicle before it's definitely different but you will notice it as you start to wax all right identify the causes you guys the causes of excessive hair growth all right the amount of hair an individual has differs from person from person to person okay what would be normal hair growth in one person might be extreme in another hair growth in terms of density on the scalp face and body is determined by genetics okay and ethnicity as well as health and of course hormonal influences it is important to recognize the difference when assessing the client for hair removal services top of page 461 hypertrichosis versus herzetism hypertrichosis is an excessive growth of terminal hair in areas of the body that normally grow only vellus vellus hair okay and not necessarily in the adult male um hair growth patterns this type of hair growth is genetically and as ethnically inherited i'm sorry i can't see there's a big old glare but can also occur due to the natural life occurrence okay such as puberty pregnancy and menopause certain medical procedures and treatments like cancer for instance or reaction to certain medication like steroids it is not stimulated by male androgens and while there may not be a cure to address the cause of the super floss hair it may be treated um aesthetically here's autism so hirsutism is excessive hair growth okay on the face chest underarms and the groin especially in women okay it is caused by excessive excuse me male androgens in the blood this hormone imbalance may be caused by stimulation of male androgens at puberty medication illness and stress it can be resolved by eliminating the cause of the condition so excessive hair growth on the female face or body may be attributed to hormonal imbalances and excessive androgen production secreted from the ovaries or adrenal glands menopause may also cause excessive facial hair these changes may dissipate with time and medical attention you want to let your clients know like hey i know you see the hair there and it's bothering you but it is best to let it grow out a little bit longer anywhere between four to five weeks and then come in the clients who typically wait four to five weeks will actually get the best wax and the best results okay everyone is a little different you will have clients that they can see you regularly every three to four weeks and then you've been waxing them for so long that they will come in with like a few hairs of course not that's not the best way to you know like run a business because you want them to come see you but they are clients that after getting whacked so much they just stop growing hair excessive hair growth may indicate a medical issue and there are a number of documented diseases disorders and syndromes that when diagnosed and treated can reduce the problem of heresism a disease of pathological like conditions caused by viruses and bacteria with a series of signs and symptoms so a disorder of an abnormality of functions like a birth defect or genetically inherited malfunction a syndrome is a group of symptoms that when combined characterize a disease or a disorder okay so please put a star next to the following and highlight it where it says diseases affecting hair growth so medical conditions related to excessive androgen production that affect hair growth are acromegaly okay acromegaly and cushing syndrome please put a star next to that it will be on your chapter um chapter 11 test disorders affecting hair growth again androgenital syndrome is a malfunction of the adrenal cortex that causes an overproduction of androgens on for page 463 at the top syndromes affecting hair growth so the most notable and prevalent syndrome relating to hair growth is pcos i just mentioned it polycystic ovarian syndrome formerly known as a stain level syndrome an individual with this syndrome would pers would present with uh present with hereticism irregular menses ovarian cyst and obesity another notable syndrome is achard fears okay syndrome which is a combination of cushing and adrenal genital syndromes so on page 463 at the bottom compare temporary and permanent hair removal and hair reduction methods please highlight and put a star next to the following methods of hair removal fall into two general categories temporary and permanent including permanent reduction so temporary hair removal involves repeated treatments as the hair grows with permanent removal what happens is that the papilla is destroyed making regrowth impossible spawn salon techniques are generally limited to temporary methods such as waxing sugaring threading and sun may offer electrolysis as a permanent method of hair removal some states allow laser and ipl hair removal that offer permanent reduction medical uh or medi spas with physicians on staff offer laser and ipo hair removal but rarely temporary methods okay so usually spalls will offer again laser but a lot of spas like med spas will not do a whole lot of waxing all right so temporary methods home and professional put a star next to the word depolation temporary methods of hair removal include depilation and epilation you guys depilation is a process of removing hair at or near the level of the skin both shaving and chemical depolation are included in this category okay another temporary method of hair removal is epilation the process of removing hair from the bottom of the follicle by breaking contact between the bulb and the papilla the hair is pulled out of the follicle tweezing waxing sugaring and threading are all methods of epilation so depilation the main method of depolation will be shaving also um you guys have heard of nares all right or vt that would be another method of depolation and of course epilation the main one will be waxing sugaring threading okay you're removing the hair from the root okay and there's a picture there on page 464. now tweezing and electronic tweezers um the method of using tweezers to pull hair out by the root one at a time is called tweezing eyebrows can be shaped and contoured by tweezing tweezing is also used on uh remaining hairs after waxing if clients are sensitive to waxing tweezing is a slower but effective alternative for removing the dark coarse hair that is on the face another less common tweezing method used is electronically charged tweezers okay the tweezers are used to grasp a single hair and transmit radio frequency energy down the hair shaft into the follicle area the idea is that the papilla is desiccated and eventually destroyed however the efficacy of this method is controversial as the hair is not a good conductor of heat or radio frequency electronic tweezers are not a method of permanent hair removal and the process is slow separate licensing may be required to perform electronic tweezing in some states let's talk about some pros of tweezing so minimal cost i have to purchase a good pair of tweezers and they're obviously very convenient to use all right um tweezing cons would be it can be uncomfortable and even a little painful um eyeglasses and peed tweezing obviously if you're going to be tweezing someone you would tell them to remove their uh glasses right poor vision makes time-consuming okay and laborious for uh clearing dense growth only feasible in small areas that's true like i mentioned earlier when we try to sit there and tweeze someone's entire chin it's very hard and well it's not that it's hard but it is time consuming for sure hairs uh broken sometimes with tweezing and can create bumps and pimples okay all right shaving all right so with shaving as with any depilation method the hair is removed down to the skin surface it may appear that hair is growing in thicker and darker after shaving but that is because the fine tip of the shaft is removed and the thicker part of the shaft is invisible as it protrudes the protruding cut hair feels coarser once you touch it all right so shaving the terminal hair on a woman's face could be problematic as the vellus hair would also be removed in repetitive shaving stimulates terminal regrowth especially with the onset of menopause additional problems are the potential for pfb a soto folliculitis barbae which is a term for razor bumps rash and of course ingrown hairs and folliculitis which is an infection of the hair follicles both of these problems can be corrected by using clean razors not shaving so close to the hair um so close excuse me so close that the hair that the cut hairs drops underneath the skin and not changing the direction of shaving you know it's actually recommended that man actually shave in the direction of the hair growth to um not get any ingrown hairs versus against the hair growth so shaving pros again inexpensive it's convenient it is fast and it's painless i mean i think most of us have shaved at least once or twice right uh shaving cons would be it causes a stubble hair growth in one to four days bella's hair also removed when terminal hair on the face shaved may cause folliculitis pfb and ingrown hairs and you could potentially cut your skin all right chemical dependitories now this is on page 466 again i mentioned this already so a depilatory is a chemical substance spread on the skin to dissolve it dissolves the hair on the surface of the skin again this would be something like a nares or a vet okay i'm talking about a product brand here on contact the hair expands and the the sulfide bonds of the hair break and the hair can be wiped off or washed away the active ingredients are alkaline such as sodium hydroxide potassium hydroxide theoglycol acid and calcium thioglycolate although depletories are not commonly used i think they're pretty commonly used i think a lot of people still use denairs you should be familiar with them in case your clients have used them or are using them if the depilatory is left on on the skin longer than recommended perhaps to dissolve coarse terminal hair on the face dermatitis could result so as with any home care method it is important to follow the manufacturer's recommended recommendations and instructions it can actually really irritate your skin um if you leave it on too long this will be again it's inexpensive um can can be very conveniently applied in the privacy of your own home regrowth is slower and softer than shaving so that for sure if if you have to choose between shaving or using a chemical depilatory i would say go for avid or nairs versus you shaving it definitely um is softer for sure some cons would be results are obviously not as long as when you wax strong order that is true they all usually have this a very distinct smell okay if you know you know if you used one before you know what i'm talking about can cause irritation and later reactions such as contact dermatitis because again the skin's natural protective barrier is comprised compromised as the depilatory is removed and again should not be used on non-intact skin so right any open wounds abrasions on your skin common sense you should not use a chemical depilatory all right threading is an ancient method of epilation that began in the middle east and it is now rapidly spreading throughout the western world so i have all of this highlighted threading also known as banding you guys in my state board test i remember they asked me about threading but they did not use the word threading they use the word banding so you want to remember you want to remember banding or threading that it's the same thing works by using cotton thread that is looped and twisted in the middle and then quickly selectively guided along the surface of the skin snagging the unwanted hairs in the twisted portion of the thread and epilating them it's like using a really fast rapid tweezer now threading threading works threading is good but i do find it to be quite painful um you obviously need a lot of experience when it comes to threading and knowing how to properly shape accomplish by using a two-handed technique okay i do know of that as well or a hand and the mouth technique which is what i was mentioning the two-handed technique uses a closed loop and cat's cradle technique where each end is looped around the thumb and four fingers the thumb and forefinger of each hand alternatingly open and close moving the twist forward and backward the hand and mouth technique which should not be performed as a professional service loops the thread around the thumb and four fingers of one hand i'm in four fingers are gripping and loose grip a loose end and the other loose end is placed in the practitioner's mouth and gripped by the teeth sounds complicated the practitioner uses their head to maneuver the piece of thread licensing and regulations for threading may vary from state to state so pros for threading fast inexpensive method of hair removal requires minimal products and supplies the thread is discarded once it's used performed on clients whose skin cannot tolerate waxing i'm one of those that sometimes can't tolerate threading okay so uh some cons it can be painful as hairs are snagged in clusters that's true it should not be performed on vella's hair again it's telling you to not perform um any threading on that peach fuzz facial hair okay as it distorts the follicles stimulating them to produce terminal hair over time again is it 100 true i can't say again based on experience i don't find that to be 100 true sugaring sugary is very popular as well so sugaring is another ancient method of hair removal dating back to the ancient egyptians times it is an alternating alternative for those who have sensitive skin or who react to waxing with bumps and redness the original recipe is a mixture of sugar lemon juice and water heated to form a syrup consistency which is then molded into a ball and pressed onto the skin and then quickly stripped away the sugar can be used over and over on the same client until the hair left until the hair left in the product interferes with the process then of course it is discarded so sugaring is similar to waxing method except that it uses a thick sugar-based paste and it is especially appropriate for more sensitive skin types one advantage of sugaring you guys is that the hair can be a little shorter than obviously with waxing and we'll talk about that in just a second even if it's only at 1 to 16 to 1 8 of an inch long without adhering to the skin it can be removed in the direction of the hair growth which is less irritating than waxing it can be used for some who have certain wax contraindications as well sugar mixtures are now manufactured which is i purchased one myself in large quantities and sold in small containers ready to be placed in a heater the sugar mixture melts at a very low temperature it is hygienic because it is used on a specific client and then of course discarded it's thrown away true sugar products should be natural and resin free additives in the formulas will change the results and affect and effects on the skin sugaring uses both direction of applying and removing the product with the hair growth and against the hair growth the application and removal depend on the product and the manufacturer's instructions there are two types of sugaring methods there is the hand applied and spatula applied so the hand method with the hand method the product is held in the hand and applied against the hair growth and it is removed in the direction of the hair growth the application is similar to hard wax the hand applied method is performed at body's temperature for 68 hand applied sugaring pros again there is no risk of burning because it is applied at body's temperature there is minimal risk of bruising as it does not adhere to the skin so pull during the removal again the hair doesn't need to be very long no hair follicle distortion or breakage of hair because it is removed in the direction of the hair growth easy cleanup for the client again naturally antiseptic properties inhibit bacterial growth please put a star next to the following easy cleanup of equipment room and treatment table as it is water soluble which is what i just mentioned you would just spray some water if it happens to fall on the floor you can just clean it up with water and it's right up and inexpensive if obviously if it's homemade right some cons would be slower and more time consuming to perform than soft wax especially on larger areas now again you guys if someone has been sugaring for several years trust me they're going to sugar you in 10-15 minutes okay so they are fast with it but it does take some time to build the experience in really getting very quick at sugaring all right so i really would recommend additional training ons not suitable for precise hair removal in such areas like eyebrows so yeah you will not use sugar wax on eyebrows all right because it's not precise folliculitis and ingrown hairs are possible although considerably less with this method than with both the spatula apply method or seam the spatula applied sugaring method this product is applied with a spatula in the direction of the hair growth and removed against the growth with a muslin or pellen strip the spatula applied method is warmed according to the manufacturer's instructions as it may be affected by additives like resins now one of the things that i do want you guys to keep in mind everyone wax is different okay and there to me i don't think there is well there are wrong ways of waxing for sure but everyone has a different technique and so yes i'm on page 469 it talks about the spatula applied sugaring pros the cons you guys i'm not gonna read through all of that uh but it's there now waxing waxing is the primary hair removal method used by estheticians wax is commonly used epilator applied in either soft or hard form both products are made primarily of resins and beeswax honey wax is the most common okay to which gum rosin is added wax is applied evenly over the hair and then removed hard wax is thicker than soft wax and does not require fabric strips for removal the recommended time between waxing appointments is generally four to six weeks dependent on the again anagen intelligent phases of the area being waxed and the percentage of hairs in the anagen phase waxing is addressed more fully later in this chapter i gave you guys a list and please confirm with me someone if you i gave you guys the list of different wax brands guys there's a lot of um wax brands you know on the market in general there's boredom star pill sarah pill the messiah brand um wax and relax um wax necessities ital wax there's a lot of different um mermaid mermaid wax easy wax there's so many different wax brands out there that i would say try a lot of these companies do sell samples of course you do have to pay for shipping but you know that's not a problem if you're trying to find the right one um so again to avoid trial and error i can always recommend some that i like that way you guys can go for it and see if it's something that you want to work with but you know a lot of wax professional five pound or even ten pound or more wax pots they're you know a couple hundred dollars you guys um three hundred and fifty to five hundred dollars for a good wax pot we'll say one thing and again everyone has different opinions everyone has different um you know things that we like all right and for me i actually don't mind and i actually like using soft wax on legs again just my preference all right it doesn't mean you have to like it but um i do like using soft wax on legs and so i will do a demo and i'm gonna have you guys do my legs with soft wax permanent hair removal and reduction this is on page 470 so the methods of permanent hair removal and reduction are electrolysis electrolysis laser hair removal okay an intense post light also known as ipl electrolysis is the only proven method of hair removal recognized and given the designation of permanent hair removal by the us food and drug administration fda and the american medical association as it is the an effective method on all hair and skin types okay laser and ipl have been given the designation of permanent hair reduction as the effectiveness of both of these methods is dependent on the level of pigment melanin in the hair and skin with laser hair removal a laser beam is pulsed on the skin using one wavelength at a time which impairs hair growth it is an intense pulse of electromagnetic radiation on page 470 please put a star next to the word electrolysis again there are three main modalities that fall under the classification of electrolysis electrolysis it's galvanic electrolysis and the blend is another one a combination of the two methods applied alternate alternately and the thermolysis uses alternating current also known as ac that is applied and omitted from the probe inserted into the follicle of the hair to be eliminated to destroy the derma papilla galvanic electrolysis utilizes direct current okay from the probe which creates a chemical reaction of sodium hydroxide also known as lye to cause a decom decomposition of the follicle electrolysis should be practiced only by a professional certified and licensed and you have to be licensed if the state does not license this profession an electrologist should become a certified professional electrologist via the american electrology association okay all right talk with your instructor for additional information about classes in licensing and electrolysis again the national laser institute if any of you guys were interested in furthering your education on laser hair removal the national laser institute in dallas would be you know a place to go for that okay and then of course some pros and cons on electrolysis yes ma'am all right so bottom up page 471 laser and intense pulse light so both laser and intense pulsed light offer permanent hair reduction while these methods are sometimes called permanent right i know you guys have heard that the hair bulb must be destroyed completely or there may be some regrowth food and drug administration guidelines require that these procedures be defined only as permanent hair reduction okay the word laser is an acronym for light amplification by stimulated emissions of radiation lasers used intense post of electromagnetic radiation that in the case of hair removal are attracted to and heat up pigment that is melanin the best candidates are those with dark hair and minimal pigment in the skin conversely those with gray hair are the least favorable candidates as their hair would not respond because the laser is designed to target uh pigment oh oh well here it goes fitzpatrick i was gonna start talking about darker fitzpatricks so fitzpatrick's four through six will be less favorable candidates in comparison comparison to fitzpatrick's one through three because the former i.e the former have increased pigment in the skin and therefore a greater risk of burning and hyperpigmentation you definitely have to go to someone that is trained and knows how deep they how deep they can go and what kind of laser is um best for your skin type okay please put a star next to different form different from a traditional laser intense pulsed light produces a quick flash of light these short powerful pulses shatter their target without allowing heat to build up and burn the surrounding skin both laser and ipl are normally performed in a medical setting or under medical supervision although local regulatory agencies regulate who can use these devices again laser ipl pros both methods offer a fast long-lasting hair reduction treatment uh no risk of disease transmission from blood not considered as uncomfortable as electrolysis though this is subjective obviously everyone has a different pain tolerance regrowth is often finer in texture and lighter in color some cons will be it's a costly treatment requiring an average of three to six or more treatments issues of long-term safety and effectiveness safety concerns for the eyes and the need of protective eyewear uncomfortable for some people no guarantee of satisfaction you may not like it okay or you may feel like oh my hair is growing bad inadequate and inconsistent state regulatory controls and guidelines okay all right let's keep moving on page 473 explain when to use hard wax soft wax methods of hair removal so waxing services are one of the most popular services in salons and spas and still the most common form of hair removal there are two types of waxes hard wax there's no strip is used for this removal soft wax which uses a strip for removal both waxes have different qualities that make them a preferred choice for different kinds of hair removal services estheticians generally use soft wax in larger areas such as the back and legs and they use hard wax in smaller areas such as eyebrows and the axillas which is your underarms and bikini area wax formulas are made from rosins derived from pine tree resin okay beeswax paraffin honey and other waxes and substances please put a star next to the following they may also include additives such as azulene and chamomile for sensitive skin or tea tree oils for soothing and antiseptic benefits wax products consistency vary as do melting points okay it is important to keep the wax at the temperature recommended by the manufacturer so that it works effectively and optimally leaving the wax unit on overnight or overheating the wax diminishes the effectiveness and may cause injury both hard wax and soft wax regrowth is softer and there is no stubbly feeling regrowth generally takes six to eight weeks after waxing so hard wax essentials hard waxes are available you guys in blocks discs pallets or beads generally the harder the harder the wax the more heat is required to melting it they're based on a resin called rosen that is often combined with beeswax as well as candelia candelilla candelilla and carnuba waxes to modify the melting point and provide increased strength the used wax is obviously discarded after each service put a star next to the following and highlighted hard waxes are gentle enough for facial area yet strong enough to be used on hard to remove coarse hair and areas where the hair growth converges from multiple directions some like to use it on the bikini and underarm areas hard wax is thicker than soft wax pre-treatment for hard wax cleanse and prepare the client's skin with products recommended by the manufacturer of the wax as they're formulated for optimal results with cotton and cleaner or makeup remover remove all traces of makeup on the area that you are going to be waxing as makeup can be an irritant and can prevent the wax from actually adhering sticking to the skin to the hair okay so for larger areas of the body such as arms legs and back a spray cleaner containing the wax containing the wax manufacturers recommended products there's a lot of different products you can use to pre-cleanse or a general antiseptic product such as witch hazel is faster and more economical the wax method generally requires a thin application of pre-wax oil to protect the skin it should be absorbed and not leave an oily film so especially when working with hard wax we are going to use a little bit of oil on the skin now not to leave the skin extremely oily because if you could just imagine if you use too much oil on the skin then the wax is not going to stick to the hair okay you're applying the oil to protect the skin and to moisturize it okay and to prevent it from lifting lifting the skin which can cause tears and obviously bleeding which is not what we want all right you are also going to oil your gloves you're going to oil your gloves okay to help you okay and to stop you from sticking to the glove as you are performing these services okay that's just a little tip hard wax technique so hard waxes are applied with an applicator at a 45-45 degree angle directly to the skin in a thick wet appearing layer that hardens as it cools okay it is first applied against the hair growth then back over in the direction of the hair growth in a figure eight pattern like frosting a cake this is done to ensure that each strand of hair is completely coated as hard wax is not as thin as soft wax it does not run under the hair as soft wax does as the wax hardens it tightens it grips the hair and then lifts it off the skin the esthetician then grips the wax at one end and pulls it while it still feels a little tacky the gripping is helped by creating a tab slightly thicker wax at the end where the pool originates so again it's called creating a lip right on the wax when you apply it and you can actually see a picture of it on page 474 all right hard wax can be removed in the direction of the hair growth thus the follicle is not distorted it can also be removed against the hair growth or even sideways to the direction of the hair growth it is especially effective in areas where hair grows in multiple directions like the underarm okay the hair grows in different directions in the underarm or in thin or fragile skin therefore application and removal depends on the area to be waxed and how coarse the hair is as well as the individual's manufacturer's instructions for their brand of hard wax hard wax can be applied to an area a second time during the service now the reason why it's saying that you guys is because when you're working with soft wax it is not recommended that you wax over the same area more than once but when you're working with hard wax you can wax over the same area multiple times now if the skin is very irritated and very red and is already having pin uh bleeding then you will obviously not want to keep waxing over it now would you so again common sense but yes you are able to wax over the same area uh more than once when you are using hard wax only okay so hard wax post treatment care it is uncomfortable to remove remaining pieces of hard wax by picking them off that's true they should be removed with a pulse treatment oil products containing chamomile tea tree oil or aloe vera can provide a soothing aftercare please put a star next to that that is a question on your chapter 11 test so hard wax dues do follow recommendations for heating the wax do test the wax prior to use on the client always ask if the temperature of the wax is okay not only do you check it first but you also want to make sure the client is comfortable so you always want to ask them apply the wax with a clean borders to avoid leaving wax behind after the removal pool apply the wax to the thickness of the nickel with no visible hair beneath it now um there are some brands of wax that you're able to apply pretty thin and it will still lift really nicely um versus other waxes where you do have to make your application a little bit thicker in order for your wax not to crack okay again check for contraindications with the client and obtain a sign release form hard wax don't do not overheat the wax or leave the heat on overnight do not apply wax to a client without testing the temperature for safety first do not double dip a spatula okay you have to discard throw your spatula away after each use okay um again do not reuse the wax ew okay do not apply wax inside the ear canal or nostrils now soft wax essentials on page 475 soft wax is the most common method of hair removal there are multiple brands which various additives for the face and other body areas and levels of sensitivity but they are predominantly made of rosins that adhere to the skin professionals soft waxes have a lower melting point and come in cans although some come in plastic bottles for single client use with roller heads for application in place of a spatula soft wax has the consistency of honey when melted and ready for use soft wax when applied in a timely manner run down and around the hairline excuse me around the hair while also adhering to the skin and must be removed immediately with a piece of muslin or pellen while still warm okay see on page 475 where says caution some regions may prohibit the use of a roll-on wax they're called roll on roll-on waxes um so again contamination in the wax and proper disinfection of the applicator so bottles of wax with roller applications must be single use okay they are used on a client and then the roller must be disinfected prior to its use on another client make certain to check with your state board regulatory boards and osha to be in compliance so pre-treatment for soft wax cleanse and prepare the client's skin again manufacturers recommended products if there is no makeup to be removed a product such as a witch hazel can be used if waxing the face a thin film of tea tree oil can be applied to protect the skin and minimize redness followed by a dusting of uh baby powder to ensure the area is dry and oil free okay soft wax techniques soft wax should be tested also with powder i only use powder on the skin if someone is excessively sweaty okay so it just depends and that obviously is very common when you're doing brazilians bikinis and when you're waxing the underarm but i would not apply powder on someone's eyebrows for instance okay soft wax technique so soft wax should be tested for again correct and safe temperature and consistency before being applied to the client using an appropriate size applicator for the area apply a thin coating of wax in the direction of the hair growth by swiftly gliding the edge of the applicator again at a 45 degree angle across the area allowing the wax to slide off the applicator as it moves across quickly place an appropriate side muslin or pellet strip over the area make sure there is a wax free portion at the pulling end of the strip to grip grip it for removal you guys i will show you and demonstrate all of this but obviously we have to kind of read it right rub firmly over the strip two two to three times in the direction of the growth place one hand firmly on the skin at the pulling end while using the other hand to grab the strip and swiftly pull it close and parallel to the skin back against the direction of the hair growth immediately after the pool apply gentle pressure to the area removing soft wax in the incorrect direction can have serious consequences as will waxing over an area a second time during the same appointment it's something you do not want to do all right so blending please put a star next to blending on page 476 blending is a technique that utilizes the wax that has built up on the actual strip to remove the more obvious hairs while leaving shorter hairs behind it produces a gradual demarcation line between the completely hairless and then obviously some hairs post treatment care for soft wax so residual stickiness stickiness is common after working with soft wax and it should be removed with the soothing wax removal lotion uh puffiness mainly in the upper lip is you know possible can be treated with aloe ice in a bag or cold stones immediately following the service hey what about our cold roller remember that one hives can also occur and can be avoided subsequently if the client takes an over-the-counter antihistamine speed waxing so speed waxing is the quick application and removal of soft wax it is known as speed waxing speed is more comfortable for the client faster procedures save time lead to more revenue and ensure more satisfied client and your you always want to follow the manufacturer's instructions when it comes to heating the wax wearing gloves apply the wax again in the direction of the hair growth remove the wax strip against the direction of the hair growth some wax soft wax don'ts so do not apply the wax without testing it first again pretty pretty pretty much the same don'ts as all the other type of waxes okay um what else on page 477 selecting the right wax for the best service so the pros and cons of hard wax and soft wax helps determine the most suitable wax for the client and the area to be treated so let's just read a few of them so facts about hard wax hard wax when removed in the direction of the hair growth does not distort the follicles some facts about soft wax soft wax is removed against the direction of the hair growth and distorts hair growth regrowth stands to attention rather than to stands to attention rather than to lying flat hard wax does not adhere to the skin and therefore causes less irritation soft wax adheres to the skin and can cause redness and irritation with hard wax the area can be waxed a second time during the service provided there's no irritation with soft wax in the other hand you cannot be waxed a second time during the service time eyebrows may be waxed with hard wax if topical prescriptions such as retin-a or differin are being used by the client but have not been applied directly to the eye area soft wax in the other hands cannot be used anywhere on the face if prescriptions such as retin-a or different is being used by the client so again you know read the chart it has a lot of helpful information um that obviously may come in handy um in the handouts that i gave you guys there's a whole list of contraindications and also different medications that if your client is on you should not perform waxing services on facial waxing during facials eyebrows or upper lip waxing can can be performed during a facial but it should be done after the cleansing gentle exfoliation steam and extractions and before the mask waxing should not be performed if any aggressive exfoliation has taken place or over an area where extractions were performed the mask should be soothing if the indicated mask therapy is not going to be soothing then the soothing lotion and cool damp cotton should be applied to the waxed area and the area should be avoided with the mask all right so we are going to stop on page 478 where it says provide a thorough client consultation you