[Music] welcome to another video from diy daily just got a full step-by-step guide today showing you how to fit a new front suspension arm on this 2012 ford c-max just before we get into the video i'll just show you we've got the new suspension arm here if you check out the links in description below i'll put links to new arms where you can get them from the part numbers and i'll put links to all the tools that we're using as well and the talk settings if there is any that i need to update you on now obviously using two poster ramp does make the job a little bit easier but to be honest they're not too bad to do without a ramp all i do is just jack it up quite high on the on the ceiling put an axle stand under it just to get yourself a decent bit of access around it and if you haven't already subscribed to the channel just click on the red subscribe button below to make sure you don't miss out on any future content but quite a few other videos on the cmax i've done the timing belt on this one that you might want to check out but there's a few others on there as well just for now i'll get up in the air get the wheel off and run you for a finished step at a time all right so now we've got it up in there i'll just show you basically got a pinch bolt for the ball joint just a torx headed bolt with a nut on the back there we've got two vertical bolts at the back so you might need to get on the nuts at the top just to undo them um but the front bolt comes through from there and you can see as it is you can't actually fully get it out so um next thing we're going to do is just take the under tray down fairly straight forward to get down got this little trim across the top you need to under the roll it's a load of torque screws holding it on you're going to undo the three torxes on there take that down and that just allows you to access the other screws under there and then fully under tray itself just got a few torches across the back a couple on the side and these three on the front so we'll just get all them off and then run you on to the next step after that i'm just going to want a torx 30 socket for them all right so now we've got the undertray out the way just clearly see just this sort of front subframe section that's blocking that hole there to get the the front bolt out so all we need to do it's got two 10 mil bolts there we've got a 13 mil added bolt here it just goes right the way through i'm pretty sure this is a captive not there if it's not you'll have to put a spanner on that but i'm sure it's captive um but just before you do it you always want to just use a bit use a wire brush you get a bit of a scrub up put penetrating oil on there as well and you can just get to the back of the 10 mils as well so i'll just get them off quick get out of the way so it's not got that out of the way with it loosened off just simply pull it round and out of the way there you can now access the 18 mil headed bolt so the next thing we're going to do i'm just going to leave them tight for now i'm just going to nail slack while i um load them bolts up a little bit there i just put some penetrating oil around the ball joint as well just clean the threads up on there these don't look pretty good that they don't come off too bad normally but it's always worth just getting a bit on there just trying to soak it around the ball joints just can be a little bit tricky to get out next thing i'm going to do now though is just undo the pinch bolt knot just tap the bolt through and then we'll get the um we've got a tool that i'm going to use it always works pretty well to pull the arm down so i'll just run me through that now there's a torx 50 for the bolt i just got the ball out there a couple of different ways to get them out all they did there was just take the just take the nut off you can just try and sort of use the puzzle and try and turn it on the bolt a bit to crack it off all you do is just put the bolt put the nut back on just so it doesn't damage the fridge and hit hit the note with a hammer that way just sort of you can always as you take the knot off it will clean the threads up a little bit uh you never really want to be hitting the bolt directly with a hammer and if you are going to use just a hammer on it you always want to be using a copper hammer well it did just keep doing that to work it through a bit and then just use the punch in the center of it so but i got it out okay just going to put a bit more penetrating oil in it now then we'll use the the bar to get it out i've got this suspension air bubble at all i'll put a link in the description below below today is because it's a mega andy bitter kit all you do is just simply hook it over the arm and you can just pull down on it if you need to with someone pulling down you can give it a little bit of a tap and but if you haven't got one of these the best way i found to do it or the way i used to do it and you can get ball joint splitters yeah that you just knock in but they're a bit rough sometimes you find them in don't matter if you're replacing the arm but you tend to find you split the boots real easy with them so but if you didn't have that normally like a really long bar and put it through the arm here and sort of rest on the underneath the body there and you can pull it down so right at the front putting a bit of load on it that way we might be able to sort of get in with a pry bar again somewhere else to pry it down but these bars work really well so you can get it down a little bit nice little tip is when you just just as you get it down a little bit spray a bit more penetrating oil in it just give it a tap up again with a hammer and you'll find it'll come out really easy after that so we'll just have a go at getting this one out now [Applause] so i was actually quite tight in there on this one tonight just with this tool here normally with tyria so one person can really put a lot of weight on it or sometimes you just get above with an hammer and that just helps it comes down quite easily with that but that was mega tight and i'm doing it on my own i do the way we use this tool sometimes is just you can sort of lean on it put the load on it and you can knock it just for the hammer on there and that obviously sort of taps it down so but it's quite tight i just had to just to help as well you don't always have to do this and you've got gotta be a little bit careful but i just just i just had to pull the ball joint shield back a little bit so i could get him with a chisel and just so i put it in you don't want to obviously splay it apart too far because you can if you're not careful you can obviously crack the bottom of the hub there and you can only get it in so far and just because it'll let the the ball joint but if you just get it in bit of an angle so it just leaves you enough of a room to get over with the tool still or getting with the bar it just helps just splay it that little bit crack it everything get some penetrating oil in there as well we could just say i had to sort of get it down a bit a little bit up knock it back up and just work it a few times to get it out but now that the ball joints out i always like to leave these in tight we'll do the ball joint you want it nice and solid while you get out because these bolts are really easy to get out so the next thing i'm going to do just undo the 18 mils the one out there can't remember i think it might be a captive nut on the other side if it's not obviously we'll have to get the spanner on there and then we'll just do these other two bolts up there as well then we can drop the arm down now the reason we're replacing it tonight is these back bushes pretty knackered um but the ball joint actually had a little bit of play in it on this side as well and the back bush is there when you put bar in there the bushes are well knackered there's a lot of play in there but you can just see the rubbers all sort of perished and cracked as well now you can get these bushes separate and but to replace them you've got to take the whole arm off anyway and this you can't just the bush essentially sort of presses on the back but you can't just knock it off you have to basically cut the whole bush off put it in the press and press the bush on so it's not too bad to do we have to line it up right it's a little bit tricky just to get it jigged up in the press right to do it but uh sometimes we'll put these bushies on uh but say well there's been a tiny bit of play in that ball joint it's just a lot easier saves a lot of time to put the arms on it so we'll just get them all their mother bolts out now get the arm off so it's captive note on this front bolt but these two upper ones are just a nut on the top you know 20 mil 21 mil spanner to hold the nut on there to get them off see the bolt goes right up through the anti-roll bar bracket there as well so just get them [Applause] i'm just got the nuts on the top there front nut you could get them from this side but the back nut if you just go up through the little gap there you can just tend to get your spanner through and on it from the back so now they've got them off i'll just pull the arm out of the way that's suspension now out you can just say the roll bar sits on the top of that you just need to make sure let's refit the arm in it needs to go underneath the roll bar there and just obviously set the spanner and the knob there so this is as you can see not too bad a job to get off really all we're going to need to do now is just get the new arm i'm just going to swap the um football joint guard over put that onto the new arm and we're basically just going to refit everything into place and build it back up i'll just run you through the torque settings and i'm just using the buzz gun just to nip it up by hand but i'll put links and listen to the proper talk settings for everything as well now when you've done the suspension arm you do really want to be tracking it up obviously if you're just putting the arm on at home and you can't track it up you're gonna have to leave here you'll be cracking your track rods off but i'm tracking this one up here tonight so if you're just going to clean it up basically clean all your threads up here on the track rod and just give them a really good scrub up a bit of spray with some penetrating oil but i'm going to do that and crack the nut off as well and then track them up so if you've just seen me doing that on the video just you don't really want to be cracking it off on your own unless if you're going to be taking it to track it up somewhere else um just fly through the video now as we get some bits swapped over and run you through the talk settings the best way i find just to get the album i've just pried the bush up there just try to focus on that and just use a little bit of metal i just had a big knot there just sort of wedged it under otherwise just a little bit tricky to get the top over there so if there's two of you doing it it's a bit easy you can just get one ear to pry the bar up while you slide it in but i'll slot that in there and then as i tap the arm in i'll just push it out the back and then i'll grab the nut come back after i've just lightly tapped the ball joint in for now i don't want to knock it fully home what i'm going to do when i am ready i'm just going to tap it in gently and you want to watch for the little cut-out groove in the ball joint lining up bang on there where it lines up it's not all the way in as tight as you can get it you'll just see there's like a little half moon cut out on the ball joint i forgot to show you before putting it in but that's obviously where the pinch bolt will go through so all i'm going to do now is tap this into place and you always want to put your bolts in and start them by hand before you start off just pull them up i'm just going to use a ratchet just to start them off i'm just going to lightly wind all of them in just get all the threads before i nip them all up as well it just makes it easy you've got a big screwdriver a big bar you can just sort of use that to leave a bush into place i'm just using a copper hammer there just to knock it to line that up just sort of hitting on this bit you don't really want to be hitting right in the center of the bottom of the ball joint up there i'm just going to put some copper grease on the bolts before we fit them all the other bolts they're all started you can like with this one here it's a little bit tight to get it through just to get it lined up on the bush the other side and give him as long as it's not too hard give him a bit of a tap just sort of pulls it through and centers it and just wound it with a ratchet a few times just to get the thread started but all the threads have started on them so i'm just gonna grease them up copper grease the bolts up now put these through there nipple them up nip the 18s up and again i'll just i'll put a listing for the talk settings on that as well [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] that's that so i'm all fitted now everything's knit back up well all i'm left to do with now so i'm just going to crack them off clean them up and crack them off ready to track it up and other than that it's just dropping it down putting the wheel on talking the wheel up i'll just leave the video recording while i finish it off just put the torx end of the wheel on there and that's basic expansion arm replacement done so so you can replace the arm or the back bush we've got to take the arm off to replace the bush anyway and you can get bolt on ball joints for these but you can see these are riveted on so to replace the ball joint you'd have to grind the rivets off as well so makes it a bit easier job if you're fitting an armor so i thought i'd share the video in case anyone wanted to have a go at theirs hope you liked it if you did give it a quick thumbs up and subscribe to the channel and don't forget to check out some of the other videos thanks for watching i'll see you next time [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] you