what is up fellow photographers i hope you're
all doing well today i'm going to show you the a6000 settings that i use for photography
and mainly street photography let's go okay let's get the camera set up and let's get
right into it so we're going to open up the menu by pressing the menu button then we're going
to go to the first tab and we're going to look at quality i like to shoot raw i always shoot raw
it's because the raw files just have so much more data in them basically i have all the
data the sensor captures which means in editing software such as lightroom i
can get so much more out of the photos but if you want to have photos straight out
of the camera or you're not comfortable with shooting raw i would suggest you use
fine and you will end up with jpeg files for image size you want to get the most out of it
if you're going to shoot only raw you don't need to do this it's automatically gonna select the
24 megapixel but this for the jpeg and the aspect ratio you want to have it three by two if you're
gonna use 16 by nine you're going to crop a little bit of the photo which is a waste of course and
you could always crop later in if you want that format second tab now we're gonna look at the
drive mode and this is a little bit debatable because i like to shoot continuous shooting high
especially when i'm in the streets and this is because we have a lot of moving subjects and it's
a little bit of an uncontrollable environment so i would end up with a little series
of photos and i could choose the best one how i want the subject to look but for single
shooting this is something when i'm in a more controlled environment such as portrait
photography for instance for example or product photography that's a good one as well
um here we have the self timer and the self timer is of course if you want to get your pretty
face into the picture as well or if you're maybe gonna do a long exposure shot and you don't want
the vibration of you hitting the camera button to transpose to the picture so you can press
it you have a little bit of time let go of the camera and the camera takes the long exposure
shot so for on the streets i love high continuous shooting i don't use the flash that often but
if you want to use the little flash you can use fill flash and just have the flash composition at
zero the red eye reduction i always have that off it's a long time ago since i had some problems
with that but maybe if you're gonna use the flash you're gonna end up with a little bit of problems
um but this is something i always do in post now the focus mode the focus mode for me is
always a continuous autofocus or manual focus often in the streets it's continuous autofocus
because it's just quicker but if i'm doing landscape photography or maybe some architecture
or well more controllable situations i like to have manual focus but sometimes it's also fun
in uncontrollable situations to test yourself and your manual focus skills now the focus area
is of course linked to the continuous autofocus so i often shoot wide but sometimes i use
zone this is where you can pinpoint a little bit where you want the focus to be but in
the center is of course focus in the center or flexible spot and for me it's
always between flexible spot and wide i have to mention i also use back button
focus but that's probably a separate video for now but i have my focus button here and i can
recomposition it later after i found the focus but white is good enough then i have the af
of the autofocus illuminator off which is basically the little light on the front side of
the camera that helps with autofocus but that's mainly if you're in darker situations and i
don't find myself in those situations often the autofocus drive speed (ONLY FOR VIDEO, MY
BAD*) this is how fast the motor should work to autofocus or focus on something for
photography you always want to have it fast the only cases i can imagine you
want normal or slow is if you're going to do some video and you want some kind of focus
pulling auto focus effect on a particular speed focus track duration i always have that to
normal and the exposure step i always do one uh 0.3 if you're going to do 0.5 your exposure steps
are just going to be a little bit bigger but i love to have a little bit more control and be a
little bit more precise about everything and i think everybody shoots would choose this one now
the iso iso always keep it as low as possible i so should probably be one of your last
things you want to crank up if it's too if the situation is maybe too dark but
you're going to end up with a little bit more grainy footage so this is keep
it as low as possible that's my advice metering mode is where the camera is judging
every parameter is on and i have it to multi it takes the whole composition
or the whole frame into uh consideration uh as opposed
to have it center or on a spot so let's have that on multi or multi now for the white balance i usually use the auto
white balance out on the streets i find it to be very good in the sony a6000 but sometimes i play
around with different settings let's say we're in the shade it's a cloudy day the only controllable
situations with light sources that i know and can set to the right temperatures i use the um i use
the customizable white balance so i can set it to the exact temperature i want it to be now for the
creative style i have it on standard and i have the sharpness dial down to minus two (ONLY
EFFECTS JPEG & VIDEO) and that's because i put a little bit sharpness back into it in post
in the editing software i find my pictures to be a little bit more sharper than when i'm not
doing that i also have a good friend of mine who shoots VIDEO* in -2 contrast -2 saturation and
mine i think it's -3 sharpness and it seems like he gets a little bit more dynamic range out
of that so maybe i should test that as well now we also want to have
face detection off of court on off no we want to have it on especially on the
streets we want our autofocus to recognize faces and all this soft skin effect you want that
off this is also not an option in the raw and the color space you want to have it to srgb
now steadyshot is when you're using a lens that is has a steady shot capability for example
the kit lens you always want to have it on now for the last zebra settings i have that off
that's something i only use when i'm filming sometimes and the manual focus assist this is
where it zooms in when your manually pulling focus and that just pisses me off when i'm out
in the streets especially when i move when i'm going around with moving subjects but once again in a controllable situation this
is nice to have but like i said for out in the streets not it's pissing me off and i
don't i don't want anything to do with it now the focus magnification time this is connected to the manual focus assist how
long you want it to be zoomed in or focused in so that has no reason for me being there because
i hardly ever use it the grid line though is something very important i like to have the rule
of thirds grid which means let me see if i can get a little example now you can see the lines
here and this is for the rule of thirds it's a good trick to improve your photography and
i'm guessing that most of you already know it well sometimes i don't only use
the rule of thirds i also use the diagonal lines and the reason for that is when i
have the diagonal lines i have a little bit more points to refer to and this actually only when i'm
shooting for example um time lapses or hyperlapses where i'm moving around and i want some subject
to be in the same place as the picture before now the display button i often shoot on the monitor and that's
where i like to have all the info this is personal preferences but i like to have all
the info so i can quickly see how my settings are if i need to change anything but also if
you're a beginner i think it's a good idea to have all the information on the screen
and you can actually see what's happening now this is very important for manual
focusing peaking level you want to put it too high and you want to have the
peaking color to wrap this means when you're pulling focus and something is in focus it's
going to show a red outline or highlighted in red on your viewfinder or your
monitor which one you prefer and also i've tested it out with a couple
of friends of mine and the red one seems if you're a little bit colorblind the red one
still seems to be the easiest one to uh to see and then we're going to have to
look at the finder and the monitor this all preferences if you want to use the
viewfinder you're going to put it on viewfinder oh oh that's so stupid of course when i
put it on viewfinder all the information went straight to the fume finder and you can
have it on auto which means as soon as you put your eye in front of the viewfinder
it's gonna show everything through there but i'll keep it for keep it on monitor
for now and that's basically all there yeah that's basically all there is now one
important thing is that i always shoot manual i like to have full control over everything
and even for a beginner i think it's a good idea to start off shoot manual because as soon
as you make a little adjustment you can see how it affects the picture and it gives you a really
good understanding of what the different things do now the way it's set up for me is this
dial button dials the shutter speed and if i press right and then dial
it back and forth i change the iso and on the right dial wheel here i have my
aperture so basically i'm playing around with the aperture and the shutter speed i try to keep the
iso as low as possible and this is something you just have to get used to but it's like you know
when you're playing a game and you don't really think about how you're playing that's how it's
going to be if you're going to put your hours into that and that's basically all the settings that
i have and especially for for taking photos out in the street these are my recommendations i hope
you liked it hope you learned something from it feel free to leave a like feel free to
subscribe and join me on this journey and there's nothing more to say than stay safe and peace