hey you guys so we are back with our chapter three physiology and histology of the skin we are on page 100 so on the top of page 100 you can see this awesome chart that has the description of what each layer does we have the dermis reticular layer papillary layer the epidermis stratum germinativum stratum spinosum stratum granulosum then you have stratum lucidum and of course the stratum cornea all right identify a hair follicle as an appendage of the skin hair is an appendage of the skin it is a slender thread like outgrowth of the skin and scalp an esthetician needs to understand this appendage in order to perform treatments such as body waxing sugaring and brow shaping figure 3-1 shows the structure of the hair follicle there's no sense of feeling in the hair due to the absence of nerves much of the hair on the body is invisible to the naked eye heavier concentrations of hair are on the head under the arms around the genitals and on the arms and legs due to hormonal influences there are different male and female hair growth patterns genetic influences the distribution of each person's hair along with its thickness quality color rate of growth whether it is curly or straight the speed of hair growth is roughly 0.5 inches per month which is about 6 inches per year so with age the speed of hair growth might slow down to as little as 0.1 inch a month there are two types of keratin you have alpha a keratin which is softer and beta b keratin which is harder hair contains 90 percent hard b keratin it has lower moisture and fat content than soft a keratin does and it is particularly tough elastic material keratin forms continuous sheets like for example in your fingernails or long endless fibrous hair for instance heart keratin does not normally break off or flake away it remains in a continuous structure hair also contains melanin which determines the hair color abnormalities such as extremely curly hair or a rapidly growing bacteria and the inability of the follicle to take in oxygen along with excessive sebum production can contribute to ingrown hairs and folliculitis and inflammation of the hair follicle hair growth is discussed extensively in chapter 11 which is our hair removal chapter all right we're moving on to page 102 identify nails as an appendage of the skin the nail and appendages of the skin is a hard translucent plate that protects fingers and toes the nail is composed of hard keratin onyx please highlight that and put a star next to it onyx is the technical term for nail the hard or horny nail plate contains no nerves or blood vessels fingernails grow faster than toenails and grow faster over the summer than over the winter lengthen about one tenth of an inch to one eighth of an inch per month which means that it takes a fingernail about four to six months to fully grow out anesthetician may work in a state where performing nail services is part of the scope of practice additionally some symptoms of diseases or disorders that influence the skin are evident on the nails a person with a circulatory disorder may have psionic nails for example cyanosis is when a person has a purple or bluish tone under their fingernails describe the functions of the two types of nerves nerves are core like bundles of fibers made up of neurons through which sensory stimuli and motor impulses passes between the brain or other parts of the central nervous system and and the eyes glands muscles and other parts of the body nerves form a network of pathways for conducting information throughout the body there are two types of nerves there's motor nerves and sensory so let's discuss motor nerves or effort nerve fibers convey impulses from the brain or spinal cord to the muscles or glands these nerve fibers stimulate muscle such as the erector peeling muscle attached to the hair follicles erector peeling muscle causes again goosebumps when you are cold or frightened secretory nerves fibers are motor nerves attached to sweat and oil glands they regulate excretion from the sweat glands and control sebum output to the surface of the skin sensory or afferent nerve fibers send messages to the central nervous system and brain to react to heat cold pain pressure and touch again highlight all of that and put a star next to everything that you see explain what is produced by the two types of glands of the skin the dermis of the skin contains two types of duct glands each producing different substances the sebaceous glands secrete oil while the pseudofurious glands excrete sweat the sebaceous oil glands sebaceous glands are connected to the hair follicle and produce oil which protect the surface of the skin glandular sacs open into the follicles through ducts if the duck becomes clogged open or closed comadones meaning blackheads or whiteheads are then formed the oily secretions lubricate both the skin and hair sebaceous glands are larger on the face and scalp than the rest of the body other chapters include further discussions on sebaceous glands and acne now let's talk about the pseudofurious glands were on page 104 the pseudofurious glands help to regulate body temperature and eliminate a minute amount of waste products by execrating sweat they have a coiled base and duct openings at the surface known as pores fluids and minerals eliminated daily through these pores exit fluid loss can result in the loss of electrolytes which may lead to dehydration in the body the excretion of sweat is controlled by the nervous system normally one to two pints of fluid containing trace amounts of minerals such as sodium potassium and magnesium are eliminated daily through sweat pores in the skin there are two kinds of sweat glands apple crying and e-crime so the apocrine glands are coiled structures attached to the hair follicles found in the underarm in the genital area their secretions are released through the oil glands apocrine function is sensitive to adrenaline so sweating can occur during the times of anxiety stress fear and obviously pain odors associated with these glands are due to the interaction of the secretions and bacteria on the surface of the skin according to sun medical authorities apocrine glands are not not true sweat glands because their openings connect to oil glands instead of poor openings directly on the skin's surface the e-crime glands are found all over the body but are primarily on the forehead palms of the hands and soles of the feet they have a duct and pore through which secretions are released on the skin's surface these glands are not connected to hair follicles e-crime glands are more active when the body is subject to physical activity and high temperatures equine glands does not typically produce an offensive odor distinguish the factors influencing skin health in order to survive cells need these important elements nourishment protection and the ability to function properly through respiration circulation elimination of waste and continual replacement for proliferation skin health and aging of the skin are both influenced by many different factors including heredity sun exposure and environment health habits nutrition and your general lifestyle this topic is discussed later thoroughly in chapter 5 skin analysis the immune system and the skin our immune system is a complex defense mechanism that protects the body from foreign substances the immune system is activated when anagens which are foreign invaders are identified antibodies are molecules formed to fight and neutralize bacteria viruses and antigens langer and cells t cells and leukeocyte cells are part of the immune system lankaran cells are dendritic in form they're present predominantly in the stratum spinosum but also other layers of the skin they work to absorb process and carry antigens to the nearest lymph node for further immune system action another part of the immune system involves leukocytes the white blood cells that have enzymes to digest and kill bacteria and parasites these white blood cells also respond to allergies a t cell is a type of lymphocyte t cells play an important role in the immune system by attacking virus infected cells foreign cells and cancer cells t cells get their name from the thymus gland where they mature there are additional components of the immune system that protect the body from foreign substances bacteria and infections infections and allergic reactions speed up cell growth and migration rates for faster healing the skin's capacity to heal fight infection and protect itself is truly extraordinary skin nourishment blood and lymph are the fluids that nourish the skin networks of arteries and lymphatics send essential material for growth and repair throughout the body water vitamins minerals and other nutrients all are all important for skin's health blood supplies nutrients and oxygen to the skin nutrients are molecules from food such as proteins carbohydrates and fats topical products with small molecules can nourish the epidermis lymph the clear fluid of the body that resembles blood plasma but contains only colorless corpuscles bathes the skin cells removes toxins and cellular waste it has immune functions that help protect the skin and body against disease network of arteries and lymph vessels in the subcutaneous tissue send their smaller branches up to the dermal papillae follicles and skin glands now let's talk about cell protection the health of the skin cells depend on the cellular membrane and the water holding capacity of the stratum corneum phospholipids glycolipids cholesterol triglycerides squalene and waxes are all different types of lipids that are found in the stratum corneum and cell membranes intercellular lipids and proteins surround cells and provide protection hydration and nourishment to the cells ceramides are a group of waxy lipid molecules such as glycolipids that are important to barrier function and water holding capacity 50 of the lipids in the stratum cornea are ceramides fatty acids are also components of the intercellular substances lipids are reduced if the skin is dry damaged or mature topical products containing peptides hyaluronic acids ceramides and other lipids benefit the skin that is damaged from both intrinsic and extrinsic aging these products expedite the regenerative process of the body and promote healing exfoliation removes and depletes lipids so topical products reapplication is necessary to balance what has been lost in exfoliation for example cell recovery depends on water to function properly so drinking water and keeping the skin hydrated is essential to keeping cells healthy cell replacement the body replaces billions of cells daily the cells of organs such as the skin heart liver and kidneys are replaced every six to nine months cells of the bones are replaced every seven years unfortunately elastin and collagen are not easily replaced by the body and the skin does not regain its once pliable shape after being stretched or damaged by uv radiation and environmental pollution however research shows that certain skincare treatments and ingredients such as vitamin a alpha hydroxy acids also known as ahas alpha lipoic acid and other growth factors stimulate cell skin cell turnover and reduce visible signs of aging regular cell turnover is necessary to keep our skin healthy which is what i mentioned in our old video and that is why we get regular facials at least every four to five weeks we do we exfoliate our face we get chemical peels all of that will help keep our cell turnover going sun damage the sun and ultraviolet uv electromagnetic radiation have the greatest impact on how our skin ages according to the us department of health and human services ultraviolet radiation is a proven carcinogen uv exposure alters dna and can cause skin cancer approximately 80 to 85 percent of our aging is caused by sun exposure as we age the collagen and elastin fibers of the skin naturally weaken this weakening is accelerated when the skin is frequently exposed to ultraviolet radiation uv reaches the skin in three different forms we have uva uvb and uvc each of the uv forms affects the skin at different levels cell damage is cumulative and photo damage causes photo aging pigment dysfunction wrinkles sagging collagen and elastin breakdown and of course skin cancer result from exposure to uv radiation uva radiation also known as the aging ray so the a and uva think of aging ray contributes up to 95 of the sun's uvr that reaches the earth's surface the longer wavelength of uva penetrates deeper into the skin and cause genetic damage and cell death uva weakens the skin's collagen and elastin fibers causing wrinkling and sagging in the tissue uva can also penetrate glass and clouds uva is present you guys all year round and more relevant than uvb uvb also known as a burning ray so the b and uvb think of burning causes burning of the skin as well as tanning aging and cancer uvb wavelength range between 290 to 320 nanometers although uvb penetration is shorter than and not as deep than uva these wavelengths are stronger and more damaging to the skin and can damage the eyes as well on a positive note uvb radiation contributes to the body's synthesis of vitamin d and other important minerals uvc radiation has more energy than uva or uvb it reacts with the ozone high in our atmosphere and from human main sources such as welding torches and uv sanitizing bulbs that kill bacteria and other germs the effects of hev light or high energy visible light is a new consideration when working on the skin and questioning your client's exposure to the light is a valid inquiry during consultation blue light from your tv computer or even our smartphones that have hev light is said to penetrate the skin more deeply than uv rays and damage collagen hyaluronic acid and elastin there is some evidence that the light may also worsen pigmentation problems such as melasma evidence trying it to skin cancer and deep wrinkles is accent however in part because of the subject is too new for long-term study results to be available melanin is designed to help protect the skin from the sun's uv radiation but melanin can be altered or destroyed when large frequent doses of uv are allowed to penetrate the skin it is important that you advise your clients about the necessary precautions to take when they are exposed to the sun sun protection does more than protect the skin it defends cells from radiation cell death tissue breakdown and of course premature aging in addition to taking some protection protection precautions clients should be advised to see a medical professional specializing in dermatology for regular skin checkups especially if they detect any changes in the coloration size or shape of a mole home self-examinations are an are an effective way to check for signs of potential skin cancer between scheduled medical visits when performing a self-care exam clients should be advised to check for any changes in existing moles and to pay attention to any new visible growth on the skin sun damage skin cancer and sunscreen are discussed later in our chapter 5 skin analysis now let's talk about free radicals we are still on page 109 free radical damage all cells in our body like to be in a state of homeostasis from individual body system to microscopic cells molecules are in balance when electrons are paired molecules may lose an electron due to damage from uv rays the environment poor nutrition unhealthy lifestyle or injuries inflammation creates free radicals free radicals speeds the aging process and creates an unhealthy state free radicals have an unbalanced electrical charge they are unstable and a chain reaction of cellular destruction begins as they steal other electrons from other molecules to try to put themselves back into a state of balance these free radicals are reactive oxidants searching the body for other electrons that will allow them to become stable neutral molecules again free radicals take electrons from compounds in the body such as proteins lipids and dna this process destabilizes and oxidizes the once healthy molecule and creates more free radicals free radicals are super oxidizers that not only cause an oxidation reaction but also produce new free radicals in the process the prevention of free radical formation is critical process and a complex task that is necessary for cells to survive antioxidants are components that have an extra electron antioxidants are vital to neutralize to neutralize this chain reaction by donating their electrons to stabilize the free radical electrons proteins enzymes vitamin and metabolites are all antioxidants skin cells have built in antioxidants to protect against sun damage but their ability to protect cells deteriorates with sun exposure the melanin pigment produced by tanning darkens the skin and absorbs uv radiation to help keep cells below from being damaged skin health and the environment so while the sun may play a predominant role in how the skin ages changes in our environment is also greatly influenced by the aging process pollutants in the air from factories car exhaust and even secondhand smoke can influence the appearance and overall health of our skin while these pollutants affect the surface appearance of the skin they can also change the health of the underlying cells and tissues thereby speeding up the aging process climate humidity levels and other environmental factors also affect the skin routine cleansing at night helps to remove the build-up of pollutants that have settled on the skin surface throughout the day applying daily moisturizer antioxidants growth factor serums peptides sunscreen and even foundation products help to protect the skin from airborne pollutants and the environment skin health and lifestyle choices what we choose to put into our bodies significantly affects our overall health the impact of poor choices can be seen most visibly on the skin smoking drinking drugs and an unbalanced diet with heavily processed foods all greatly influence the aging process it is the esthetician's responsibility to be aware of how these habits affect the skin and during consultation to stress the benefit of good nutrition exercise balance lifestyle and stress reduction with your clients smoking and tobacco use not only causes cancer but are linked to the premature aging and wrinkling of the skin nicotine in tobacco causes contractions and weakening of the blood vessels and small capillaries that supply blood to the tissues causing decreased circulation eventually the tissues are deprived of essential oxygen and the skin surface may appear yellowish or gray in color and can make your skin look very dull lack of oxygen and nutrients accelerate skin aging using some prescription or illegal drugs also affect the skin certain drugs have been shown to interfere with the body's intake of oxygen thus affecting healthy cell growth some drugs can even aggravate serious skin conditions such as acne other effects include dryness and allergic reaction on the skin surface as more states move to legalize marijuana and the effects of inhaled cannabis should be a consideration in the skin's aging process as well there may be documentation about the benefits of skin care containing cannabis however inhaling marijuana has a detrimental effect to the skin there is a correlation between marijuana and testosterone that may cause increased acne breakouts as well as deprive the skin of needed oxygen further breaking down collagen and elastin similarly consuming alcohol has a damaging effect on the skin heavy or excessive intake of alcohol dilates the capillaries and other blood vessels over time this constant over dilation and weakening of the fragile capillary walls can cause them to expand and eventually burst this causes the constant flushed appearance of the skin and red splotches in the whitish of the eyes alcohol can also dehydrate the skin by drawing essential water out of the tissue making the skin appear dull and dry when dehydrated skin is in an inflammatory state that also accelerates the aging process alcohol in excess results in a rapid and sustained increase in blood sugar which causes inflammation and a glycation reaction in addition alcohol is metabolized by the liver into chemicals that are toxic to cells both smoking and drinking contributes to the aging process on their own but the combination of the two can be even more damaging to the tissues the constant dilation and contraction of the tiny capillaries and other blood vessels as well as the constant deprivation of oxygen and water to the tissues quickly makes the skin appear lifeless and dull it is very difficult for the skin to adjust and repair itself from its assault damage done by our habits can be hard to reverse or even diminish keep all that in mind glycation recent research indicates that an intrinsic part of the aging process involves damaged structures and tissues that gradually accumulate in the body through the destructive process called glycation which is caused by an elevation in blood sugar glycation is the binding of a protein molecule to a glucose molecule resulting in the formation of damaged non-functioning structures known as advanced glycation and products glycation alters protein structures and decreases biological activity so for example glycation contributes to the aging of skin contributing to wrinkles and hyperpigmentation many age-related diseases such as arterial stiffening cardio cataract and neurological impairment and are partially attributed to glycation scientifics have established that any that anything that causes a rise in our blood sugar result in an inflammation on a cellular level when blood sugar goes up rapidly and continually the sugar can actually attach to a collagen to the collagen in the skin making it stiff and inflexible this is glycation when glycation when collagen is cross-linked by sugar it leads to stiff and sagging skin when blood sugar is elevated we are in an inflammatory state for example lack of sleep elevates the hormone cortisol on days we do not get enough sleep we tend to crave carbohydrates because cortisol raises blood sugar and insulin levels setting up this craving even though it is an essential hormone in the body cortisol has many negative side effects in excess quantities for example it can break down muscle tissue thin skin decalcified bone and elevate blood sugars in summary glycation is an unhealthy biological process for many reasons a healthy lifestyle and a diet without excess sugar intake can help keep sugar levels balanced in the body aging skin and hormones as we age our skin changes significantly there is a partially be this is partially because of shifts in hormone balances hormones are the internal managers for most of the body system and are significant internal factors in the skin's appearance strength and health estrogen which is present in both men and women but predominantly more in women is a crucial hormone for good health and the appearance of skin estrogen is an anti-inflammatory and antioxidant and a key factor in tissue repair the hormone is also responsible for maintaining health in several areas such as coordination balance skin moisture vision bones and the nervous system estrogen has even been linked to memory and emotions women's skin is continually in a state of change due to hormonal changes in the reproductive and endocrine system from puberty to pregnancy to postpartum period to pre-menopause and to and to menopause estrogen levels fluctuate this affects the skin protective barrier epithelial tissue the dermis and the dermis as skin ages capillaries and other vascular walls begin to weaken lipids are reduced and lymphatic system is less deficient glands slow down and there are fewer thus affecting cells collagen and elastin the skin thins and collagen has less ability to respond to physical changes from aging and sun damage as estrogen is depleted skin begins to lose its tone reduced glycocasaminoglycans mean less moisture in the tissue keratinocytes are reduced and cellular exchanges are also reduced testosterone levels become dominant as estrogen decreases which can increase sebum production pore size and hair growth on the face this helps explain why mature women may experience adult onset acne or facial hair growth let's talk about microcirculation so microcirculation is the circulation of blood from the heart to the arterioles or capillaries to venules which are your small veins and then back to the heart hormonal changes are one cause of the micro circulation problem common in mature skin one such problem is copero's skin or telangietasia the dilation of capillary walls as the endothelium atrophies and loses its elasticity the walls dilate and fill with blood sometimes bursting other causes of vasodilation are heredity digestive problems alcohol smoking sun damage harsh cosmetic trauma pregnancy excessive localized heat topical cardio steroids inflammation and heat cold fluctuations these could potentially lead to permanent distension of the capillaries then we have rosacea which we have discussed in other chapters it is a chronic vascular disorder characterized by varying degrees of skin redness and congestion of the skin acne rosacea includes papules and pustules in some cases rosacea may be caused by a parasitic microorganism skin disorders are discussed in chapter four afghan disorders and diseases of the skin lastly we are coming to the end of this chapter hormone replacement therapy please highlight that first sentence and put a star next to it hormone replacement therapy is often suggested to balance estrogen for women experiencing menopause however some hrt may be linked to breast cancer these therapies may be derived from animal source estrogens or plant source estrogens estrogens from plants are called pythoestrogens they are about 200 to 400 times weaker than animal estrogens plants that provide pythoestrogens include mexican wild yam soybean red cloves sage hops black cohash flax saint john's worth licorice root and butcher's broom choosing an hrt program should be done with the help of a medical professional it is not within the scope of practice of an esthetician to make recommendations in addition to hormone balancing sustaining good nutrition the use of good skin care products and treatments exercise and a positive outlook can help keep skin looking radiant at any age all right you guys so that concludes our chapter three physiology and histology of the skin please do not forget about the glossary that is in the back of that chapter it has a lot of very good terminology again you are always free to start creating flashcards to help you remember a lot of this information i hope that you found this helpful and i will see you guys on my next one bye