Surfing started about 3000 BC, which is 1200 years ago. Let's take a look at what it was like surfing. Surfing was discovered by the Hawaiians.
They cut down trees and wanted a way that we... they could ride these waves on the beach. They would cut down trees and they would shave them into long, about 20 foot boards that I'll explain later.
They also used it for transportation. They would go from islands to islands and they could also fish on these devices. But it wasn't like their main use of transporting.
They also had those for just like, oh, I could also use this for transporting from island to island. Let's take a look at what it first looked like and what it looks like now. The boards were very heavy at first.
They were about 200 pounds, 20 feet tall, and 6 inches wide, which is very big compared to the boards that we have today. They were carved from trees as I explained earlier. They were made from cobalt, which is a very rare wood today that you, it's very hard to find.
You guys can, you guys can pass it around. Um, but yeah. Normally boards today aren't really made out of wood. They're mainly made out of fiberglass, epoxy, and foam.
Foam is normally for starters who just want to mess around. Sometimes advanced surfers will go on them, but if it's a smaller day and they just want to mess around. Let's look at what the surfboards look like today.
They're very light. They're about 5 to 10 pounds. Normally the long boards that range up to 5 feet are the ones that are the most expensive. up to 11 feet are the heavier boards, but shorter boards like thrusters, and thrusters is the type of fins, so like thruster is three fins, there can be five fins, four fins, which are all different types of fins, they're all meant for different reasons.
So this board mainly weighs around four pounds, which is called a 5'7 sub driver, which is what I write. It's really nice for it. You can do errors and it's just really nice. They're very much thinner. They're about two inches to an inch thick.
And the cord length range from five to 11 feet as I stated earlier. But there's custom ones that you can get that are. for smaller kids that are as insane as they're being. Let's look at how this spots from pipeline, Nazare, and just normal breaks around the world that have changed the evolution of the boards.
So first, as I stated earlier, the boards were very long. They weren't really shorter and they weren't going down the line of the league, which is picking a direction. doing tricks down the line, which is what it's called. They're kind of just figuring out how to do this. Then they discovered Pipeline, which is one of the most famous breaks in the world.
It's about 4 feet, and there's 4 feet deep, the depth is about 4 feet, and the waves can range up to like 30 feet, which is insane. This created shorter wards that have like... Lots of rocker.
Rocker is where the board, front of the board has a bend in it so when they drop in on the wave they don't immediately nose dive. Because if you think about it, if the board is straight and you have a wave that's curved like this and you drop in with a straight board, you're just, the nose of the board is going to dive straight into the water. So then they created rocker.
which is the bend at the front of the board. Then we moved on to race like Nazarene, when surfers wanted a way bigger wave to ride, and overall they just wanted a bigger wave to ride. So like Nazarene, Jaws.
Mavericks, they're all, they range up to like 100 feet, which is insane. I don't think I could ever do that. It's so scary to me. But this board, the boards that were evolved from this were called like Big Guns or Rhinos, which is like longer boards, but are in the shape of a short board.
And then the, just like the shorter, steeper weight gel that like we have everywhere, um, yeah, that created like the shorter boards like that, uh, have semi-fissions or, um, round-nose fishes which is the back of the board the type of like shape it is so like if you have a semi fish it's meant for like shore break which the wave crashes onto the sand but this is John John Flunt one of my favorite surfers this is him doing an air reverse I think it's just a frontside air but since the boards have developed over time it allows Surfers, they do airs and snaps, which is where you go up the wave and curve really hard. Thank you for listening. So does anybody have any questions for Tristan? A lot.
So in the beginning, when the board was over 200 pounds, and they were like kind of dressing different than the board. So the type of wood it's it's it floats I don't I haven't really come across that in my research but like it's just I think they thought of this as driftwood which is a wood type of wood that floats and I believe koa can also float too. Austin? You said that the koa wood Has it become scarce?
Has it become extinct or is it just like much rarer to find? It's harder to find because, I mean, the global warming that's going on in Hawaii. So they're all in Hawaii.
And most of the locals use it there for like some of the boards. For the work that they use, but it's harder to find because everybody uses it there and no one's really willing to give it up and give it to other countries around the world. Emma? I would like people to start from this.
What was the coldest jump before? Because it's so slow. The first floor, that was like 20 feet.
Well, they were 6 inches, so it was... They were very heavy, but I don't know how they did it. I guess they were just like...
It's kind of... They just stood up on it. I don't know how they did it, which is...
Seems very hard to me. I don't know how any of the surfers today could do that. Richard. When did it first originate? About 1200 years ago.
So, like in BC? 3000 BC. Raylan. You said it's a thing that's got like fins.
What's the maximum amount of things that we'd be on a surfboard? I believe it's five fins, but the most I've surfed is a quad, which is four. What's the name of the five things? Um, I, there's not really like a name for it, it's just like, I'm serving five things.
Yeah. Questions? Alright, well I only have one question. One I want to say is that you did a really good job. I feel like summarizing the history of surfing, I learned a lot of different things.
Apparently there's a lot of science in surfing. So geometry with the waves and the shape of the board. There's material science and what floats. What does it mean? Reducing the weight but still maintaining strength and buoyancy, all that stuff.
But my question is, what is your favorite type of weight to serve? My favorite type of weight? I love when it's on the inside and they're bigger weights, so like five to six feet. And on shore wind, so it's barreling.
And they're very steep, so it gives you lots of power. and you can get inside the weight. So what kind of board would you, what would be the perfect board for that kind of weight?
I would use my 5'7''s SubDriver thruster, which is three fins and it's a shorter board so it gives you, you can do lots of stuff on it, like cut backs, snaps, and airs. Cool, it sounds like surfing is something that you really love and enjoy. You are indeed an expert.
Can we give Tristan a round of applause? All right. Thank you, Tristan.