hi everyone welcome back if you are new please consider subscribing my name is yti and I make educational videos for Beauty Professionals in training and for those who like to continue learning in today's video we are going to be doing a full theory of understanding skin analysis we are taking you back to basics this will not be a short video this will definitely be a long one but definitely worth your time so you guys I hope you stay with me for the entire video remember that information is not limited to the one shown in the video and it is definitely not meant to replace any type of teaching from a license facility but you guys if you find the information helpful don't forget to give it a thumbs up share it with a friend send it over to someone who you think could find all of this information helpful thank you so much for being here give this a thumbs up if you enjoy it let me know in the comments down below if you do with that being said let's get started let's go back to basics the process of skin analysis let's face it being knowledgeable about skin types and conditions is one of the most important parts for a skin care professional this interaction with a client set you up as a skin care expert recommendations for the appropriate skincare treatment and products must be customized to each person the skin analysis is the determining factor in deciding what products to use during the service and what products to recommend for home use the skin analysis also confirms whether the client is an appropriate candidate for the treatment before performing services or selecting products an individual skin type and condition must be analyzed correctly directly to determine the appropriate treatment and products Identify the four genetic skin types through visualization palpation and consultation skin type is a classification that describes a person's genetic skin attributes skin type is determined by genetics and ethnicity but like everything else skin can change over time generally skin becomes drier over time because our cellular metabolism and oil lipid production slows down as we age skin type is based primarily on how much oil is produced in the follicles from the sebaceus glands and on the amount of lipids found between the cells the T-Zone is the center area of the phase corresponding to the letter t shaped formed by the forehead nose and Chin evaluating the pores in the T-Zone is the first step in determining skin type all skin types need proper cleansing exfoliating hydrating and protecting finding the right treatment plan for each individual can be challenging and this makes the esthetician role even more interesting mastering this skill is necessary before learning about which product and treatments to choose for each person when we perform the skin analysis we are using our visual abilities often under magnification to note properties in the skin such as pore size or irregularities in the skin we use palpation to examine the Skins through touch manipulating it to determine conditions such as oiliness and elasticity and we use consultation conversing with our clients to determine lifestyle and dietary issues that impact the skin skin types are categorized as follows we have normal combination oily and dry again normal combination oily and dry the oil hydration balance is easily affected with combination skin oily skin ages more slowly because the oils acts to protect the skin so hey is not all that bad if you have oily skin dry skin dry skin can have compromised transepidermal water loss and normal skin normal skin often changes as we age so yes if you currently believe you have normal skin just know that it could possibly change over time which is why monthly facials as preventative care are extremely important all right you guys so now let's move on to a few skin type guidelines we are going to be starting off with talking about normal skin what does it look like and how does it usually feel oil production so it's very balanced normal skin has balanced oil balanced hydration and its follicle size usually is very small its appearance is very uniform it has no or very rare blemishes it feels soft smooth smooth texture and it usually has good elasticity how is normal skin treated well it needs maintenance which I mentioned that just a second ago maintenance and prevention with treatments is super important so yes cleansing exfoliating nourishing and of course protecting the skin why well by body systems functioning holistically for balance skin types very common so this skin type is very common in early 20s and 30s but remember it can change over time and how does it feel to be God's favorite I'm just kidding let's keep going a tip for normal skin would be to introduce Anti-aging products as clients mature remember normal skin will often become drier with age and always reinforce the use of sunscreen all right next up we have combination skin which I must say very commonly seen in the treatment room so as far as oil balance it is very moderate to high hydration good to dehydrate follicle size is usually larger in the T-Zone than cheeks or the sides of the face so again larger in the T-Zone than on the cheeks and the sides of the face its appearance it can have buildup of dead skin cells and oil in the pores around the nose but dry or flaky outside of the T-Zone and some blemishes and comod dones may possibly be present how does it feel well it does feel oilier again in the center of the T-Zone than the sides of the face how is combination skin usually treat well cleansing more regular exfoliation the use of water-based products are ideal avoid harsh products and rough exfoliation why overproduction of oil in the T-Zone Also may have normal oil production in the T-Zone and dehydrated skin on the sides of the face what would be a tip for combination skin well combination skin should be evaluated often as oil hydration balance can be disrupted by hormonal and environmental influences and of course we must always reinforce the use of sunscreen oily skin you're up next what does it look like and how does it feel its oil production is moderate to high hydration it is good to also maybe possibly dehydrated follicle size moderate to large its appearance shiny kodon and blemishes may be present how does it feel well it could feel thick and firm and even uneven due to congestion how is it treated regular cleansing and exfoliation and hydrating with water-based products treatment to balance oil production is of course ideal for oily skin why well over production of oil you guys due to genetics hormonal changes medications stress or environmental factors such as skincare prod products or makeup that tend to be kogen tip what would be a tip for oily skin clients well clients with oily skin breakouts and codones may have them on the neck back shoulders and chest also clients with oily skin age more slowly since the oil acts to protect the skin clients will need to use SPF regularly of course to avoid postinflammatory hyperpigmentation I hope you're still with me we are now on dry skin what does it look like and how does it feel oil production and hydration are both very minimal follicle size is very difficult to visualize because the pores are usually very fine its appearance you guys it dry skin can look a little dual it can lack Luminosity it can be a little flaky and blotchy very crepy feeling uh rough thin and very tight usually how is it treated well oilbased products to provide protection of the acid mantle and increase the barrier function dry skin often has compromised trans epidermal water loss caused by evaporation on the skin surface treatments that provide nourishment and protection are the best for dry skin why again under production of oil due to genetics environmental factors and hormones tip for dry skin dry skin May often be dehydrated the use of imoan and humant can bring great benefit to dry skin and of course always use sunscreen differentiate the six fits Patric skin types and accurately identify them developed by Dr Thomas Fitzpatrick the Fitzpatrick scale is used to measure the skin type's ability to tolerate ultraviolet UV sun exposure many skin treatments Protocols are based on the client's Fitzpatrick skin type due to racially mixed genetics there is no true phototype classification system therefore the scale is just a simple guideline when it comes to skin treatments everyone's level of Skin's reactivity is different lighter skin types are generally more sensitive individuals with dark skin have a larger melanin deposit in the stratum corium which gives more protection from the Sun but dark skin type face other risks adverse reactions like hyper and hypopigmentation and keloid scarring may occur due to aggressive treatments all right you guys so here here is a look at the Fitzpatrick scale we are going to start from number one which is the lightest and ending with six remember the Fitzpatrick's scale is just a simple guideline going from one through six one being the lightest and six being the darkest yes of course there can be a 2.5 a 4.5 and so forth so here we go number one Fitzpatrick type 1 blue green eyes hair is usually blonde or red unexposed skin is very white almost translucent freckles are very common Heritage heredity will be English Irish Scottish northern European skin reaction and UV exposure you guys if you consider yourself to be a type one then you know that your skin always Burns peels with the burn and does not tan if you are a type one you must always everyone should but you must always always always wear SPF nothing under 50 Fitzpatrick type 2 blue hazel brown eyes red blonde or brown hair unexposed skin is light Heritage heridity will be Scandinavian and same as Patrick type 1 skin reaction in UV exposure burn easily usually peels Tans minimally Fitz Patrick type 3 brown eyes dark hair unexposed skin light brown Heritage heredity Spanish Greek Italian Skin's reaction in UV exposure Tans well Burns moderately Fitzpatrick Type 4 dark eyes dark hair unexposed skin light light brown Heritage heridity Mediterranean Asian Hispanic skin reaction in UV exposure Tans easily Burns minimally experiences immediate pigment response Fitzpatrick type 5 dark eyes dark hair unexposed skin dark brown Heritage heridity East Indian American Indian Hispanic Latin American African am Amer skin reaction and UV exposure rarely Burns Tans easily and significantly next Fitzpatrick skin type six dark eyes dark hair unexposed skin is dark brown black Heritage heredity could be africanamerican Aboriginal skin reaction and UV exposure rarely to never Burns and tans easily now I want all of you guys to remember that regardless of where you fall in in the Fitzpatrick scale it is extremely important that you are suggesting recommending sun protection to all of your clients and of course yourself distinguish the characteristics of sensitive skin we are constantly bombarded by environmental stimuli stress sun exposure and other unhealthy elements sensitive skin is a condition but can also be genetically predisposed sensitive skin is characterized by fragile thin skin and redness clients with a Heritage that is northern European Fitzpatrick skin type 1 tend to have Fair light color skin that is thinner and more sensitive it flushes easily and may appear red due to the blood flow being closer to the surface individuals with Multicultural skin can also be naturally sensitive without the visible redness sensitive skin is easily irritated by products or by exposure to heat or sun telling gasia visible broken or distended dilated capillaries less than 0.5 mm due to the intrinsic or extensin causes may be noticeable on sensitive skin these conditions are a protective visible reaction to let us know something is irritating the skin fragile or thin skin can also be the result of age or medication skin can become reactive or sensitized from sun exposure or things such as harsh products heat or even become dehydrated and chapped from cold weather sensitive or sensitized skin can be difficult to treat because of its low tolerance to products and stimulation for example excessive rubbing heat exfoliation or extractions can cause damage and increase redness sensitive skin needs to be treated gently with nonirritating and calming products and treatments it is important to find out what could be causing sensitive skin conditions by completing a thorough skin analysis is it a natural part of their skin condition or is it something that the client is being exposed to primary treatment goal for sensitive skin is to soothe calm and protect recognize the intricacies involved with treating skin of color all Fitzpatrick skin types have the same number of melanoides higher Fitzpatrick skin types have melanoides that produce more melanin melanocytes comprise about 5 to 10% of the cells in in the basil layer most of the differentiation is dependent on the ethnicity of the individual and their geographic location a person who lives along the Equator will have much more active melanocytes than the person who lives at the North Pole in addition to those considerations each of the skin types have specific characteristics let's talk a little bit about Fitzpatrick's skin Type 4 considered to be one of the most challenging skin types to treat has great elasticity and firmness and does not show signs of aging as quickly as Fitzpatrick's skin type 1 and two can become hyperpigmented from treatments or aggressive exfoliating agents gentle exfoliating products are recommended may need to add melanin suppressants or other skin lighteners to skincare routine because we usually hyperpigment very easy you guys requires some protection to slow down hyperpigmentation and must avoid sun exposure and use some protection daily of course Fitzpatrick skin type 3 and four typically have thicker skin that is usually characterized by more oil production and needs more deep cleansing treatments additionally waxing is more difficult for individuals with any Fitzpatrick skin type that has thicker hair and root in the follicle if you want to specialize in skin of color explore educational resources and Advance classes for this area of study no matter what a client skin type or ethnic background everyone needs an individualized skincare routine consultation and treatment plan to maintain healthy skin Fitz Patrick skin type 5 and six generally have oilier and thicker skin but can have the same level of reactivity as lower Fitzpatrick skin types reactions may be more challenging to see on darker skin but they may be just as intense as those on lighter skin Fitzpatrick 5 and six are also prone to form of hyper caratos known as dead skin cell buildup which may lead to needing more exfoliation and deep pore cleansing fits five and six May have abnormal hypotrophic scarring for example keloids also some protection is still necessary for higher Fitzpatrick's I hope you are following along and you're still with me let's identify treatment options for the neck and deete the skin on the neck and deete is not the same as the skin on the face the neck and deete have fewer sebaceous glands than the face so they tend to show signs of aging more quickly the neck and deete are more susceptible to irritation photo damage broken capillaries Fine Lines R Tides which are wrinkles develop just as much on the neck and chest as the face the term tech neck is a new phenomenon caused by the repeated movement of looking down at our cell phones or other electronic devices has created a DE and for specialty topical treatments that include antioxidants growth factor serums and additional moisture be cautious when applying vitamin A or Alpha hydroxy acids also known as ahas products that may cause excess irritation to that area a product such as a retinol may be fine for the face but may be a little bit too aggressive for the neck remind your clients that the neck and de say need SPF protection as much as the face illustrate examples of skin conditions many internal and external factors affect the conditions of a person's skin skin conditions are more than our genetic makeup these conditions are what the aesthetician is most concerned about and they are the focus of skin treatments some of the most common skin conditions aestheticians see today are adult acne extrinsic aging from sun exposure and the environment and problems related to hormonal fluctuations dehydration which is lack of water and pigmentation disorders are also significant concerns for clients other skin conditions include kodon hyper caroen and aemma which is ress we can improve some of these conditions you guys through regularly scheduled skin treatments by using specialized products and by avoiding avoiding the factors that affect the condition while performing a skin analysis on the client's chart you will want to note other conditions that may possibly not be listed in the following chart all right you guys so here is the skin conditions and description chart I will not be reading everything that is listed on this chart but I do want to point out a few and by the way we have already discussed pretty much all of the ones that are listed on this chart in previous chapters but let's start with acne acne is sebaceous breakout from hormonal changes or other factors the next one I do want to point out is the term asfixiate xixi are smokers what smokers have xixi skin you guys from lack of oxygen characterized by clock pores and wrinkles dual and lifeless looking skin can be yellowish or gray and skin color dehydrated what does dehydrated mean well dehydrated is lack of water caused by the environment medications topical agents aging or dehydrating drinks such as caffeine and alcohol Athea we pointed out earlier that aemma is redness caused by inflammation on the second page we have hyperpigmentation right in the middle hyperpigmentation is obviously over production of melanin due to at least one of the following three factors the main one would be UV exposure from the sun tanning beds things like that we also have at the very bottom the word milia milia is hardened PE likee collections of oil and dead skin cells trapped beneath the surface of the skin milia are not exposed to oxygen and have to be Lent open and to be removed milia are typically the size of the head of a pen and yes you will often have clients that do have milia it tends to be around the eyes just like the picture shown in the video what else do we have on this skin conditions and description chart we have papios you guys so Papio are raised lesions also called blemishes next we have poo koderma of savad it is a result of chronic sun exposure okay chronic sun exposure specifically along the sides of the neck which turn a reddish brown color with a clear demarcation of untan skin under the chin and I tried to find some pictures to put on here so that you guys could have a good visual next we have um sebaceous hyperplasia which is a benign Le seen in oilier areas of the face described as a looking like a dut hole um that cannot be extracted and there's the picture I thought it was a good one so pretty interesting and yes I've often seen them on the forehead and on the nose next one that I do not think a lot of people talk about but yes I actually have seen these in the treatment room and they are solar chodon so what are solar chodon they're basically large open chodon usually around the eyes due to sun exposure and let me tell you these are very hard to extract you really have to prepare the skin and it can be painful to the client just because it is on a very sensitive area anything that lays next around the eyes is very sensitive but you knew that already and of course next we have tangit Tasia so what is tangit Tasia and what does it look like so there's a picture there you guys visible broken or distended capillaries that are less than 0.5 mm due to Intrinsic or extrinsic causes so there you have it I hope you're finding all of this information helpful and you are liking all the pictures so you guys being aware of what can affect the skin will help you to determine why a client may be experiencing problems often skin conditions are due to more than one influence the esthetician meaning you must evaluate multiple causes both external and internal to correct or improve a skin condition each client is different and the skin of various clients May respond differently to the exact same treatment let's discuss some external factors that affect the skin habits diet and stress all play a part in our health which in turn is reflected in our Skin's appearance skin conditions can be caused by allergies reactions medications medical conditions and other external or extrinsic factors lack of exercise lack of sleep smoking medications and drugs will have negative effects both inside and out sunnd damage is the main external cause of Aging all of these factors contribute to skin problems and can be detrimental to maintaining a healthy and attractive complexion what are some external effects on the skin you guys let's go over them the first one on the list is UV exposure sun exposure tanning beds environmental exposure such as pollutant and of course air quality environmental so climate and humidity poor maintenance inappropriate skin care misuse of products or treatments overe exfoliation and harsh products you have no idea of how many times you will possibly come across a client who misuses products and they are using products that are not appropriate for their skin type so this is very very true allergies in reactions to environmental factors or products and we have photosensitivity to the Sun for medication or products now let's discuss some internal factors that affect the skin our body's internal or intrinsic Health affects how we feel as well as how our body and skin look and perform free radicals which are unstable molecules in the body dehydration which is lack of water vitamin deficiency in proper nutrition genetics hormones puberty pregnancy and menopause all affect our Skin's well-being hormonal imbalance can lead to sensitivity dehydration hyperpigmentation and microcirculation problems that affect capillaries so what are some more internal effects on the skin you guys well genetics and ethnicity influence conditions free radicals dehydration vitamin deficiency hormones medical conditions such as chronic illness cancer systemic disease diabetes impaired immune functions puberty aging glycation pregnancy and menopause I know you're probably wondering so what are some things that I can do and my clients can do to have better healthy skin habits well here you have it top 10 healthy habits for the skin one avoid sun exposure use sunscreen screen daily eat a balanced diet do not smoke avoid excessive alcohol drink plenty of water get plenty of rest stay active and exercise regularly and yes I know it's hard you guys use beneficial skin care products and regular home care routine get professional skincare treatments to maintain the results of your home care routine and of course your regimen and two more effectively treat the sign of Aging blemishes and other skin conditions staying on top of appointments and routines is extremely important and number 10 Implement stress relievers and maintain a calm positive attitude determine treatment contraindications through evaluation analysis and consultation certain treatments and skincare products may be contraindicated for a part particular client and it is your responsibility to evaluate the appropriateness of treatment and skincare products after your skin analysis and review of the client's medical history these contraindications are factors that prohibit a treatment from being performed or the use of a certain skin care product being used on the client's skin certain treatments could cause harm or negative side effects to those who have a specific medical or skin conditions communicable diseases skin disorders medical conditions medications and skin irritation can all contraindicate or prohibit a service or use of a skin care product the client May list a communicable disease on the client questionnaire but remember recognizing diseases is vital to to avoiding causing harm to clients or to yourself medications or topical exfoliating agents may make the skin too sensitive for facials or waxing so you recognizing and knowing this is very important certain medical condition illnesses and diseases such as cancer May Contra indicate any stimulation to the face or body allergies and sensitivities to skincare products may be evaluated clients who have obvious skin conditions such as open wounds cold sores like herpes simplex or other abnormal looking conditions should be referred to a medical provider for evaluation and approval for aesthetic treatment all right you guys so here's a chart of contraindications for skin treatments the first one on the list are certain skin diseases disorders or irritation must be considered individual usually based on the client's overall health also the use of isotretinoin the client must have completed isotretinoin 6 months prior next skin thinning or exfoliating topical medication including retin A retin NOA and everything listed on the list you want to avoid waxing exfoliation or any type of peeling treatment for a minimum of a week next we have pregnancies no electrical treatments peels chemical peels or aggressive the use of aggressive ingredients without the client's medical provider's written permission you guys next metal bone pens or plates in the body you want to avoid all electrical treatments in the area where the pen or plate is located obviously Medical Professional consent is needed prior to treatment next we have Pac makers or heart irregularities you want to avoid all electrical treatments that require a grounding pad next on the list are allergies any allergic substance listed on the health history should be strictly avoided become knowledgeable about ingredients clients with allergy to aspirin again clients with an allergy to aspirin should not use products or have treatments using salicylic acid they are both derived from willow bark clients with multiple allergies should use fragrance-free products designed for sensitive skin next seizures or epilepsy you want to avoid all electrical or light based treatments that pulsate Medical Professional consent is best to treatment if the client has a history of seizures next the use of oral steroids like cortisones such as pretone avoid any stimulating exfoliating treatments or waxing as Skin may be more fragile and bruise easier until the client has been off the medication for a minimum of 2 weeks next an autoimmune disease such as lupus Vitiligo avoid any harsh or stimulating treatments or skin care products next on this list is diabetes you guys it is extremely important that your clients have their diabetes and insulin levels under control and the last one will be blood thinning medication making sure your clients fill out their health history form is very important prior to treatment all right client consultation a thorough client consultation is important for many reasons the most important is to determine that a treatment is appropriate for the client or that the skin care products will benefit the client's skin a consultation will help you determine why a client may be unhappy with their skin or appearance Health lifestyle occupation and more affect the skin many times we have to act as a detective to try to determine why the client is having a certain skin problem the more you know about the client the more you can make appropriate recommendations for skin care and treatments next forms you should have at least three forms for a new client intake form also called a client questionnaire health history form and a consultation card clients should complete a confidential intake form that should be updated at each visit the form discloses the client's health history all products and medications medical conditions any known allergies or sensitivities along with their atome skincare routine and skincare treatments the client has recently received that could adversely affect treatment information should also include important details about the clients including their name age occupation diet and lifestyle habits all right you guys so here are some client forms examples to give you all a visual of some of the information that is usually asked on the forms most working estheticians do go paperless and honestly I believe it is the best option you can create your own forms and consent forms and have them integrated into your booking system Therefore your clients are able to fill out all of the information all of the forms prior to their appointment giving you plenty of time to review and look for any contraindications if any hope this helps let's go over some questions to ask during the consultation what is the reason for your visit what brought the client in is is it for a treatment or relaxation what are your skin concerns what are your skin care goals are you preparing for a special occasion if so when is it what is your home skincare routine how many products does the client use at home what are the ingredients and how often are they being used have you had treatment before is this the client's first treat treatment do you have allergies to products or scents how does your skin feel during different times of the day what is the degree of oiliness or dryness do you wear sunscreen if so what SPF value 15 30 50 tell me about your diet do you eat a healthy diet how much processed food do you eat how often do you eat out how how much water do you drink what is your activity level are you often Outdoors do you smoke any other allergies how stressful is your lifestyle are you under a lot of stress have you had any aesthetic procedures prior if so how long ago were you happy with the results the skincare consultation and skin analysis is your moment to make the clients aware of what you note about their skin condition and what services or products you offer that could help benefit them the consultation is also a marketing and educational opportunity to introduce services and products to the client think about how you can help the client through treatment Home Care suggestion and preventative measures conduct the consultation discuss what you see with your clients and give recommendations during the analysis or after the treatment perform a skin analysis knowing how to analyze a skin is the first step in providing successful skincare treatments and recommending effective skincare products identifying conditions and contraindications as well as providing thorough consultations and charting clients noes are all elements of good aesthetic practices educated clients on healthy habits and the causes of skin condition is part of the service products ingredients different types of facials and a home care regimen for preventative maintenance are all beneficial in caring for the skin a series of treatments may be necessary to effectively help the client's condition remember that 20 years of sun damage cannot be helped overnight making sure that the client has realistic expectations is important and that the result may take months to see skin analysis may seem challenging but practice and experience will build confidence in using this essential skill knowing skin types conditions and the factors affecting the Skin's Health as well as interview skills that encourage your client to open up about their skin care regimen enables you to perform an accurate skin analysis use a magnifying light to examine the skin more thoroughly a woods lamp is a filter black light that is used to illuminate skin disorders fungi bacterial disorders and deeper levels of pigmentation or an electronic Imaging system may also be used tips on how to start a skin analysis number one ask the client what skin type do they consider themselves to have continue by confirming by looking at the client's pore size on the T-Zone number two te DC look for texture elasticity dehydration and condition number three continue the consultation asking questions while analyzing analyze pore size hydration level pigmentation muscle tone are there any broken capillaries do you see any fine lines and wrinkles do you see any signs of skin disorders these are all things that you are looking for while performing you're touching you're feeling you're using the magnifying lamp so that you're able to get a closer look remember to ask if they use retin A and glycolic acid skin tends to be a little bit more sensitive when such products are used review the client questionnaire verify information if needed now you guys doing this and Performing skin analysis is going to take some time but if you're a student practice practice practice practice with clients practice with each other in class practice with your models until you become more comfortable and more confident and practice those interviewing skills well you guys that is it for this video I hope you're finding all of this information helpful thank you for watching and listening if you enjoyed it don't forget to give it a thumbs up share it with a friend and again if you are new please consider subscribing thank you so much for your contined support and you guys let's keep going let's keep growing and I'll see you on the next one