Notes on Cosmetic Formulation by Belinda Carly

Director of the Institute of Personal Care Science

Introduction

• Overview of the importance of well-written cosmetic formulas for small brands.
• Introduction to mistakes commonly made in formulation writing.
• Free resources available for formulas: [email protected]

Key Features of Good Formulations

1. Percentage by Weight

   • Write formulas to 100% by weight.
   • Avoid specifying quantity (e.g., making 75 jars).
   • This ensures consistency across batch sizes (e.g., from 100 grams to 100 kilos).

2. Consistent Measurement Units

   • Avoid mixture of volume and weight measures.
   • Convert everything to percentage by weight for accuracy.

3. Specific Ingredient Names

   • Avoid ambiguous ingredient names (e.g., "fractionated coconut oil").
   • Use trade names/specific grades to ensure consistency (e.g., specify which grade of xanthan gum).
   • Example: Instead of just "vitamin E," specify "tocopherol" for antioxidant protection.

4. Phased Ingredients

   • Components should be organized into phases (e.g., Phase A, Phase B, etc.).
   • Avoid naming individual ingredients in the method; list phases to avoid missing any ingredient.

5. Clear Method Instructions

   • Specify method steps with temperatures, endpoints, and types of mixing (e.g., low or high shear).
   • Avoid including specific mixing times as they may vary by batch size and equipment.
   • Set clear endpoints for when each step is complete (e.g., achieving a homogeneous gel).

6. Final pH Consideration

   • Include a target pH for the final product to ensure quality over time.
   • Specify that a "pH adjuster" should be used as needed to achieve the final pH.

Summary of Bad Example Formula Issues

• Written for a specific batch size (75 jars) instead of 100%.
• Mixed units (weights and volumes).
• Ambiguous ingredient names which can lead to inconsistency.
• Lack of phasing and mixing instructions.
• No specified final pH and endpoints.

How to Write a Proper Cosmetic Formula

• Convert to 100% and all measurements to percentage by weight.
• Use specific trade names and supplier details for each ingredient.
• Organize ingredients into clear phases.
• Provide clear method instructions with specific temperatures and endpoints.
• Include pH specifications.

Conclusion

• Importance of consistency in formulations for small and large scale production.
• Contact for free resources and information on formulation writing.
• Reminder to comment or ask questions for further assistance.

Happy formulating!