hi i'm tom stevenson and welcome to understanding construction drawings today in lesson 8 we're going to be taking a look at a set of drawings and we're going to be looking at floor framing and wall framing and how that goes together in my previous video i discussed the different components that are involved in framing so if you like check out my playlist click subscribe look on the youtube channel you can go back to previous videos also look in the description and you'll see links to other videos as well might have to copy and paste them in but they should work for you okay so let's get started uh this is a set of production drawings uh for a subdivision that had multiple homes being built and in this particular case they're being built in just outside toronto canada these drawings unlike some of the other ones that i've used are all imperial so you'll get a good sense of imperial measurement on this particular set because it's a large subdivision they have different elevations for the front of the houses what that means is you have more or less the same floor plan but on different streets or different uh areas they might go with a different front view for the house so once you go inside the house pretty much everything is the same but on the outside it looks somewhat uh different which is nice because then the neighborhood looks like it's all much more custom the homes it gives a different kind of flavor back in the 1950s and 1960s and even still today in some jurisdictions they let the builder do whatever they want and then you kind of get cookie cutter houses where they all look the same so in this particular case they've made a conscious effort the municipality to make sure that there's a good distribution of different looks on the house a lot of progressive builders would have done that anyways because they know homeowners like some variety and they don't want that cookie cutter um sort of look but a lot of townships will make sure that that doesn't happen not all uh just depends where you live and so it gives you a little bit of a sense that way all right so this is i'm going to go to a larger view so i'll zoom in in a minute but just showing you two pages at once so usually there's the cover area we've talked about title blocks in previous videos this is 3 16 to a foot that's basically the scale that's used so that means 3 16 of an inch on the paper represents one foot in real life and we have the construction notes which you know they're usually found on the front pages of a drawing or at the end of the set of drawings there's no sort of drawing police for that but they're usually one or the other i typically like when they're right at the front and this is all the information that gives you a lot of details that you're not going to find on the drawings nor do you want to find that on the drawings you want to have it somewhere that you can easily find it without it crowding up the drawings that you can't actually read the drawings and of course we have in this particular case our foundation or basement floor plan and we can see a bunch of different things we've also talked about line types in the previous drawings these are all object lines representing the foundation wall these are hidden lines representing the footing that's going around the foundation wall in this particular set of drawings you have a choice you have just going to the title block here lower level plan or basement elevation a and an optional finished lower level plan elevation a and so you have a choice if you wanted to have your basement finished when you purchased it or not and so that's just another element of this particular set of drawings and we've talked about foundations again in previous uh lessons so we can see here we've got the first floor and this is saying main level plan elevation a right so main uh level plan elevation a and on the right here we've got second level plan elevation a so maybe i'm just going to go so that you can see it a little bit bigger on one sheet of paper here so just give me a second okay so i'm in single page view right now and we've just gone from the foundation drawing this one is the actual finish choice if you want to have a finished basement plan and so that's why it's got you see insulation hatched and so these would be framed out walls here it's showing a bathroom down in here then there's a section that's unfinished so going to the actual first floor they have what they call a great room a breakfast area a kitchen a dining room and what i've told you in previous drawings is what i usually do is i usually pretend like i'm walking through the front door and i'm looking around and what do i see and so in this particular case if you look to the left when you come through the front door it says 42 inch half high half wall so there's going to be an opening but there's going to be a little bit of a wall here and it's going to be 42 inches off the floor and the reason that's there you could put a sofa or something against that wall so you wouldn't see the back of it makes it a nice place to position it maybe the tv can go over on this side if that's what you want but it makes it usable space but at the same time it doesn't make it seem like a closed in room it seems much more open you do have this column here that would be there and then you have basically this area here with the dashed line and you can see that it says f a at eight foot a f f right and that's uh referring to a flat arch at eight feet above finished floor so you get to use used to what these abbreviations are now if i was new to these drawings what i would probably want to do is spend a little bit of time going back up to the beginning here and looking at the legend and you'll probably find a lot of these things here like flat arch right above finished floor so a number of the abbreviations and symbols that we'll be talking about as i always say take a good look at the legend things like point load that's a concentrated load that's coming down probably supporting a beam from up above uh you'll find there and then you get used to it right and you'll also see information here we talked in the previous session about lentils you know if you're uh if you're used to construction sites typically we'll call it a header if you're from the us or some other countries they tend to call it a header uh we tend to call it a header here too in canada to be honest on our uh construction sites but our building code refers to it as a lintel so you know if you really want to let a building inspector know that you know what you're talking about if you call it a lintel if you're in canada that would tend to work fairly well because if you look up header that's only found in an opening for a floor so a lintel is a beam that goes over a window or door typically and it's supporting loads from up above and so rather than write all this information down sometimes they do on drawings they'll actually put what the size is right on the plans but it does take up a lot of space this designer casting company they always go with an abbreviation then you can just reference it l1 l2 l3 and then these ones here 90 by 90 by 6 6 on the wall right so this is referring to another lentil this is a steel lentil it's a steel angle iron my masonry background used to be a bricklayer at one point uh that's basically a three and a half by three and a half l-shaped piece of steel and it would if you're looking this is the metric but this is what it you know typically you'll be getting three and a half inches by three and a half by a quarter inch thick uh or it might be four or five inches by three and a half by five sixteenths and that's to support the brick so if you have a brick veneer single white or single course of brick on the house which is what we do typically over the last 40 50 years if you have a brick veneer around what goes over top of the opening something has to support that and it's not going to be wood it's going to be steel you don't barely see the steel angle iron if you look up underneath a window you usually see a little piece of steel it might be painted and that's supporting the brick up above only the brick from that particular case because these houses here they're wood frame construction and so whether you have brick on the outside or not the framing is what the structural part of the building is right and so uh these lower l1s to l6 are supporting the are for the lintel sizes over the opening and the wider the opening the wider the opening the heavier the material so you go from a two by two by eight to a two by ten to a two by twelve so the lentil uh l ones the wider the opening the heavier the lentil is going to be like wider it's gonna be because it's stronger that way and this is referring to how many pieces you have do you have two two by eights or do you have three two by eights um that's what that's referring to the number of they call it plies or the number of layers that are nailed together on that particular lintel so those are a lot of little short short cuts and we're talking about doors and walls and window openings today so we also have a door schedule and the door schedule is referring to door sizes so these are the sizes they give you metric sizes here being canada but nobody orders anything metric uh that way you say i want a two foot eight by six foot eight by inch and three quarters this will be an exterior door when it's inch and three quarters most most uh interior doors are inch and three eighths where we are they're pre-fabricated they're hollow they're not very expensive they can look like raised panel and they can be fairly nice looking but their hollow core door is meant for the interior you know if it's a custom home sometimes it is inch and three quarters thick it's more substantial and if it's solid wood and that sort of thing less likely to warp and twist so you can see the different numbers and when we see a floor plan well that will tell us the door size if you know the door size then you can do the door opening and the door opening size will be the door size plus the frame that goes around the door plus about 3 8 of an inch on each side unless it's exterior then it's usually about a half an inch space so you can shim it to adjust it so the door is perfectly plumb and perfectly level and it opens and closes really really smoothly so you need a little bit of extra space because when we frame walls and we frame floors there's a certain amount of shrinkage and adjustment that takes place so even if we did frame it perfectly it may warp or twist a little bit we want to have some flexibility that we can shim those windows and door frames perfectly so they close perfectly from that perspective so i'm just going to scroll down here a little bit just to give you again a quick overview of this this house that we're starting to take a look at so you walk in the door we see the living room there now you get the idea of the flat arch so it's just a drop down from the ceiling at eight foot above finished floor a lot of ceilings are standard eight foot so how is this flat arch which is just basically like a drop down like you'd see over a doorway at eight foot that's telling me that likely this has higher ceilings how would i know what kind of ceiling height this house is using well i won't see it on the floor plan that won't tell me that that tells me everything horizontal that will tell me things like uh the um it'll tell me a bunch of different bits of information like where the center of this window opening is going to be for example it's going to be five foot five inches from the outside of the brick wall where is the inside of the frame wall going to be it's going to be 11 inches from the outside of the brick wall so that's giving me that information there there's always some fine nuances you have to look at when you actually are doing the house though because there could be some subtle differences you know bricks come at varying widths all right so you have to look at what's the width of the brick we have to allow for an air space between the brick and the wall it doesn't really show you well like it doesn't really show you that but you can kind of see that little space there there's always going to be an air space because building code requires a one inch air space between the brick and the structural wood frame wall you're going to have a sheathing on the outside or you're going to have a rigid insulation on the outside of that wall or perhaps even both you're going to have insulation in the wall you're going to have drywall on the inside so it's made up of a bunch of things but this is telling you on this it should be around 11 inches but expect that things may vary slightly due to materials and placements on that so sometimes there are these slight little differences that you have to get used to and adjust for appropriately this is showing from the outside of that wall to the center of this window is five foot five inches right so this is representing the center line of that window from the outside wall and you see l1 and l7 so yeah there's brick that's the hatching for a brick those little angled lines these little swirls are the hatching for insulation and so we have five foot five we would have to know well what is the window size for this particular wall not for that we would have to look at the elevations and a second ago i was thinking what is the overall height of the floor to ceiling and so again we might have to look at the elevation drawings you're not going to find that information here so that's where these drawings they work together right and currently we are looking at um in this particular uh drawing elevation a right so main floor plan for elevation a and it's talking when it's talking about elevation it's talking about the elevation drawing what does it look like so let's scroll down a few pages here and see if we can find elevation a and so i'm going to just spin this around okay so this is elevation a i can see it says elevation a over there and this is the front of that particular house now i can move this a little bit to the side here and you can see here where you get the elevation heights all right so the heights uh from top of the basement concrete floor slab it's expected so it's gonna have a nice high basement in this particular case it's got eight foot seven but you gotta remember this is to the finished main floor level so this is including the thickness of the floor so whatever the thickness of the floor that we would have to get from the actual floor plans i think in this case it's nine and a half if it's talking about engineered floor trusses or truss joists and so you lose that space you also lose the thickness of the subfloor so when it says finished main level that's one of the things that you have to think about finished main level it's talking about the top of the subfloor so these drawings when they tell you that inference not talking about the top of the ceramic floor or the hardwood or the carpet it's talking about the subfloor and that's the plywood that goes on top of the floor joist that supports people walking on it and all of that other stuff so that would be inclusive of the joists then it's got from finished main floor to finish second level and this says 9 foot 11. again that's inclusive of the floor joist right from here it goes finished second level and it's got to top of plate well that's going to be the actual wall height so that's eight foot one so that would give you kind of a standard eight foot ceiling inside once you basically put the drywall on and you put whatever you know if you're putting hardwood flooring or something like that it's going to put you very close into that zone of having an eight foot ceiling they make it eight foot one of course you have drywall that goes across the top and then always the drywall goes on the ceiling first and then you put the drywall on the walls against that because that really supports the drywall really well around the edge and drywall is four foot wide so you got four foot and four foot that would still give you a half an inch of space off the floor you definitely don't want to have to have the dry rollers cut a half an inch off the drywall all the time so they design it so that it will actually fit really well and you can even get pre-cut studs that will are cut to allow for a single bottom plate and a double top plate and again we talked about that in the previous video you can go back look at my uh descriptions below and look at the playlist and you'll see in the previous video we talked about framing terms so you have a better idea of that but we're at eight foot one so that's basically for an eight foot ceiling we're at nine foot eleven now the floor i think we'll check it because we should verify it i think it's around nine and a half inches you're going to have your 5 8 subfloor so again or sorry yeah your 5 8 sub floor nine and a half so that's about ten and ten and an eighth you're going to have your half inch dry wall so you're about 10 and 5 8 so again you're going to be in this particular case have a 9 foot ceiling so you're going to have nine foot sealing more or less when you are done not less but probably slightly more so the drywall works because you can buy widened sheets that'll work out for nine foot ceilings which makes it a little bit easier again for the drywaller to install depending on your jurisdictions these materials sometimes they're very sort of jurisdiction specific very popular to have higher ceilings over the last 10 15 years prior to that we went through a long period where everybody just did eight-foot ceilings and prior to that in older houses really old houses 10-foot ceilings 12-foot ceilings they're very popular at least in some of the older parts of toronto so we're kind of back to where at least on custom homes and even production as these are production where you have options if you want a nine foot ceiling or a 10 foot ceiling and so here is where you see the window sizes so this is the front elevation for the house this is the left side elevation here for the house again and this is for left side elevation a so you got to be looking at what you're looking for is it on the right elevation so this is the right side elevation elevation a and so this is showing us all the information for that right elevation again just like you walk the floor plan inside the house you should take a look at the house from all sides and you know what you can always freeze this and take a closer look at these drawings on youtube and take a good sort of uh look and get a good sense of what's going on and orient yourself better now i think on these particular drawings because the rear elevation is more or less the same just depending on on the roof style uh they don't change too much but just to point out see here this is elevation b so this is elevation b see the front of the house it's quite different it's got like a gable roof over here it's got like a soldier with a uh roloff course above that brick road it's just the way that the brick are positioned you can see which windows operate these ones open these ones are fixed glass here you can see you got a semi-circular arch here with a keystone uh precast keystone brick so it gives kind of a really nice sort of look and you got this flat roof over the porch so looks nice if i go back to elevation a if you recall let's go back there elevation a looks quite different it's the same floor plans little bit difference in the front of the floor plans where parts stick out but the rest of the house more or less the same except for the roof and the roof line so if you're walking down the street and this house is right next to this house you won't think it's exactly the same house when you walk in but it's pretty close there's a few minor things but it's not much different as you can tell from the floor plans so that's how builders are able to get different kind of looks going on the actual house but let's go ahead i want to find the rear view because that's the left and right for b and so just to pull up the side so you can see over here i love rear elevation a and b so it is more or less the same a and b and you can sort of get an idea of the roof layouts too so the roof layouts here this is roof plan a right a lot of different stuff going on at the front right so a lot of different stuff if i want to compare see you've got basically extra valley and hip here a lot of different things going on here but look at the back the rear elevation more or less the same and so this back elevation here is more or less the same whether you've got elevation a front elevation a or front elevation b that part is going to remain pretty much the same and so this is where you would see for example the window size so this is saying 24 wide so they're individual units and usually the window manufacturer joins them up so they make them up as individual units this is a casement window that is hinged on this side that would basically open out this would be basically a right hand uh hinge on that and it would open outward so the hinge is there so this would swing that way outward this one's fixed so it doesn't open right and it's got a brick soldier course over here it's got a brick veneer all the way around and this is the brick which is inside the house in that floor plan that we were just looking at for uh floor plan a so let's go back there now i think that's floor plan way back here going back back back and i'm going to have to spin this around again for you i'll just do that right now there we are and so this is that right over the uh sink so those size of windows what was it 24 by i think it was 48 whatever those two are so it's 24 and 24 you have to add them up that would be 48 in width and so let's just go back there but we're talking about this right over the sink you notice there's a patio door here you also notice there's a window that is at each side of this fireplace so you see how i gotta look at the floor plan i know where the center of the window is going then i have to go to the elevation drawings and take a good look at that so i can get a good sense of the rear of the house so let's take a look up this is the upgraded rear a we were looking at just the regular um rear elevation for a and b so that's the one we were looking at and it says 24 by 44 not 48. so that means we've got to frame this opening that it's big enough for 48 inches so yeah 48 inches in width and 44 inches in height and we have to allow a space around it so we can shim it with cedar shims typically to adjust it so that it's exactly level exactly plum nice and square so the windows operate properly and it looks nice from the inside your kitchen sink is right below this right so you have to get that elements fixed that way now what height do we put the window well that's where you look at the elevation drawing top of window top of door right so that's going to be the top of the window is going to be eight foot from the subfloor so you know where you have to measure to right so from the main floor up to the top of the door window that's going to be eight foot and so that'll give you your line height and so you notice that this is going across and this has a special eight foot patio door so of course when you do this you wanna make sure that they all line up on the inside and also for the outside so the brick layers can do it all nice and even their brick will be nice and level and so that's important as well that's why it's important when you start the footings and you do the foundation wall everything is level and then you do your floor it's level and then it makes it easy when you frame everything to have that level as well all you're doing is then measuring from the floor the subfloor to the top of the window if i know where the top of the window is guess what i know where the bottom of it's going to be because then i just got to measure down 44. now i'm not going to only measure 44 i gotta allow for that space around the window usually on exterior windows and door frames we allow a half an inch around the edge some of you might say well in my jurisdiction we allow 3 8 on each edge that's fine as long as you're in that zone and you can adjust it and shim it to plum but also it's important to remember that you got to put foam insulation around that gap and make sure it's really sealed well so usually half an inch works pretty good it gives you a lot of flexibility you got room to put the foam foam insulation in and make it really really tightly sealed from that way the other thing is i would never go only from the drawings now i want you to repeat after me the map is not the territory the map is not the territory it just means drawings are not perfect i wish i could say they were and i it's not fair to any designer to expect that there's always these no you know you might be using a window manufacturer's catalog and all of a sudden they change something i would want to make sure that what i ordered what is the actual outside size of these windows so i've ordered whatever the manufacturer is and again you could look at the construction notes or you can look at notes and specifications that would tell you uh this is a palo window this is a marvin window this is whatever uh window from that particular manufacturer i would want to make sure okay so the outside size of these windows are they 48 this unit that's coming together is it 48 by 44 yes it is all right then it's easy then i just add an inch to the width so now i've got 49 and then i add an inch to the height now i've got 45 and then i shim it so i've got a half inch space all around it and then i foam it and as long as i put it in level square plum then it is going to operate and provide many years of service last thing you ever want to do when you're framing houses is to frame the openings too small and then have to make them wider you'd be much better to make it slightly too big than to make it too small so that's another thing that you learn once you do that wrong like i've done over the years a long time since i've done that wrong but you just have to do that once and you learn your lesson right and it's not a big check this does not take a lot of time to check and it's so worthwhile in production building they usually have the site super and they're going around and they're making sure that the framers know the exact rough opening because they don't want that problem either just makes things go very smooth and you're always trying to when you're reading drawings think ahead think ahead and so these are window openings these are door opens you want to make sure that they're going to work very very well and so i can get my heights for information over here it's where i can get that i've got to understand where it's measuring from and where it's measuring to and oh that was the other thing i mentioned so we want to see well what is the floor joist size so this is another one so i'm just going to go back here for a second here and we'll go to the basement floor plan i'll just turn this around for you so there you go nine and a half engineered floor joists well with engineered floor joists i'd want to make sure they're actually nine and a half inches again it depends who's the manufacturer there's a lot of engineered floor joist manufacturers there's more differences uh than not between them so you got to make sure that what is that actual height especially if you're trying to figure out different overall heights and what things are going to be at so it's good to know that and we also see on this drawing here a hexagon symbol how this designer has done it they do it very well organized i love the way that they uh organize things on their drawing it's so consistent uh it's great so they use the hexagon here symbol it's frequently used but not always used and so that's number seven okay that's easy peasy i'm gonna go up here and i'm gonna go to my construction notes and i'm gonna look at seven alright so in this case it's talking about the concrete slab because i'm in the basement right so it's talking about the slab and it's giving me information about that then here it says number eight finished floor on so 15.9 5 8 tongue and groove subfloor very popular the other one that's very popular is three quarter inch subfloor nice as if it is actually three quarter inch plywood tongue and groove a lot of times it's osb which is oriented strand board it looks like a bunch of wafers that are glued together either way that's what it's uh referring to so now i know the thickness of the subfloor as well so finding that information is not that difficult uh when you are reviewing different information for different things you can actually see if i go here it should show let's get to the first floor see number eight so it's giving you information about the subfloor uh that's being used on this particular project and when it's showing you the floor joists this is showing you for the floor above so this is showing for the second floor so i'm looking at the first floor floor plan that shows me the second floor joist i look at the foundation that shows me the first floor joist right so you sort of get it from that perspective it's always looking at the floor above you but as you also saw when it shows in the basement number seven that's giving you information with regards to the basement slab as opposed to the actual um the actual thickness of the subfloor so we've been looking at this drawing for a little bit we see that you'd walk in oh here on this particular drawing it says optional coffered ceiling so coffer a true coffered ceiling is like beams and they crisscross each other a traditional coffered ceiling looks like that looks outstanding uh that way in this case they they've called this bulkhead that's surrounding the room a coffered ceiling again this can look outstanding too you put some pot lights in the right spots and you have some paintings and different things on the wall it can really make it pop the other nice thing about this too you can use it as a source to collaborate with your plumbing subcontractor and your hvac subcontractor if you have some ducts that you need to reallocate so that you can avoid having unsightly bulkheads a bulkhead that just kind of goes half a wall and stops it looks awful so if it's part of a plan that can be very nice in there too but they've definitely angled this off to make it really kind of a feature of the dining room and to make it stand out again you've got that above finished floor the flat arch so that's kind of a bit of a thing in this design that's going on around the house so we're walking through by the way we walked in the front door to the left pr stands for powder room which is usually a two piece a water closet or toilet and in this case a basin we usually call a sink that is in a washroom a basin plumber always was correcting me on this when i was a kid so i kind of it kind of stuck there but it's a looks like a pedestal sink but it's you know that basin that we have in the in the uh powder room and so then you walk through the dining room here you see steps it says up 16 risers well that's the other thing you got to remember too if you have higher ceilings guess what you have more risers if you have more risers it takes up more space the stairs because there's more run to it you've got rise and run and we'll cover that off in another episode uh you walk through here again you got an opening going through here you got an opening going through here you got a nice breakfast area you got a little desk area over here this ceiling is sloping a little bit here and it's or it's lowered a little bit here you've got basically it lowered here a pantry kind of i guess to store your extra corn and vegetables and different things that can stuff that you might have a nice kitchen area with an island and a breakfast nook area here wide open patio door and the great room and the great room opens and we've got a direct vent fireplace which means it'll be a natural gas fireplace and it will vent directly out through the wall so you don't have to have a chimney going up the whole house and if you remember the rear elevation we looked at uh then we could uh we would see that so there's a bunch of information there with regards to it and we can also see there's some hexagon symbols that we could check out and look this is looks like it's a step so that in case there's a change in grade whether you'd have a single step or whether you might have to have a little bit of a walk out deck with steps will be dependent on the site plan and we talked about site plans in one of the earlier videos too you can go back to and what the elevation of the property is does it slope off does it slow back is it fairly flat that will change based on individual properties on a subdivision like this particular uh set of drawings so you kind of walk through there and you can see here too there's a what they call a sunken mud room and usually that's very common so it says down one riser so it's going down and so again the elevations and the door heights will change because you want to be able to walk out to the garage much more fluidly and that makes it easier because you don't want to end up with a bunch of steps in the garage because then in that case you won't be able to park the cars because they're taking up too much space so we've got that going on why don't we take a look at the second floor and what that actually looks at so you notice it said up 16 risers before well now it says down 12 risers and down 4 risers so this technology area here is lower uh than these areas right so this master bedroom area here is at a higher elevation for risers all right then the technology center and then this area here you got to go up four risers or down four from that area so it this whole area here is all at the same elevation but this is at a little bit lower elevation here so it's dropped down a little bit as a result of that and if you actually go back and you go to this floor plan you see that there's a bunch of things going here drop ceiling right well this dropped down but the ceiling also drops down a little bit correspondingly and that's why this here is showing that x because this whole area here is dropped down a little bit because of that technology area so that usually takes a little bit of time for you to study and to take a look at and to come to grips with exactly how will that particular area be framed out when you get to detailing that part of it right and part of that drop down area is somewhat impacted uh by here so this would also tend to be dropped down as a result of because you can see the stairs is going up here but you got a little bit of space up above that is in this area which is also lower so that's going actually into the garage area that little bit of lower part of ceiling so you have to review the drawings for a period of time and get used to them it would be what i would suggest and of course if you're going to be framing it you got to really look at those kind of details very very closely to figure out exactly what's being framed where and which beams are going to be at different heights and for what reason now it can be helpful if there is a section that cuts through so because usually what the designer will do is they'll try to give you a section detail if it is something that's a little bit complex so that you can get a better sense of what's going on so you notice the cutting plane lines we talked about these so there's going to be a cut through right through that stairs right through where you have that difference in height so you'll get a better idea of what i'm talking about this section detail right here bookshelf niche detail this is talking about right over let's see right over here it says halfway optional 40 books bookshelf niche see detail so in that case that's looking at this right there all right so sometimes you might see a detail that's on the same page others you might have to go hunting for it a little bit in these residential drawings it's not that many pages so it's fairly straightforward when you get into a set of commercial drawings or you know for a condominium building or something of that nature you might have 70 80 100 pages of drawings they should then at that point reference what page this would be on in this case it's not really that difficult so we'll just go to section a a right now okay so i'm at section a a right now as i said now it gets you a good sense of different elevations here right so i can see this is up going up into the master bedroom i don't see the one that's going up to the other bedrooms because it's cut in front of those but i do see this technology center how it is framed lower how this stairs goes up here and you go one two three four risers up and usually the designer if they've drawn it well they will have done the risers accurately too so you got one two three four five six seven eight nine ten eleven twelve i knew it they always do it really good here but don't count it for every designer but just if you get some really good designers they make sure they're into the details right and so you can see the stairs up you can see this is lower than the other bedroom so there's bedroom number four so there's where that finished second floor it level is at so the technology center has a from the subfloor on the technology center to the top plate ten foot four inches right but on the finished second level overall it's eight foot one so that's where you're seeing the difference in heights for your wall heights and that's giving you a lot of good valuable information there so you can picture it much better and that's us basically a really good cutting plane section detail section a a that's why it said section a a that you can see that information there for that purpose right remember on that same page it also said section of shed roof this is that little section that's going out there so it's giving you a close-up of that and that section x and the nts if you remember not to scale it's just reminding you not to scale these for exact uh measurements from that perspective okay so you're getting a good sense of your way around let's just zoom back okay so we're back and again just i would pretend i'm walking around the second floor we walked around the first floor let's walk around the second floor so this is this technology center really that's kind of like where the kids would probably do homework that sort of thing i would guess with home offices these days that could be a nice home open home office area as well uh that would be helpful and then this is closed off this is the whole sort of i guess parents area master bedroom area optional fireplace when you see something like that with the dashed lines it's not a hidden line in that case it's just saying if you want to pay the extra amount of money we'll put in an optional direct vent fireplace you can have in the master bedroom and it's got information about the roof system which we'll get into in another particular class now here it's here they put 36-inch door but usually they've always put just the number and then you would reference the construction notes and if i see the number then i know what size of door this is and then i would know what size to make the rough opening again inside you're going to make the rough opening well let's see this says number three so let's go look at number three here and we see number three it says two foot six by six foot eight by inch and three eighths pretty standard stuff so you would frame this door the thickness of the frame on each side so that's three quarters of an inch three quarters of an inch maybe it's five eighths five-eighths they keep making the stuff cheaper and cheaper and so that would be an inch and a half for the frame and then you'd want to allow 3 8 to half an inch on each side i usually on an interior door only allow 3 8 because i don't have to put insulation around and that's giving me three quarters overall and that's enough to shim it because i don't like to use more shims than i have to uh so usually that usually what i add to an opening is usually about two and a quarter inches if it's those measurements right if it's 5 8 and 5 8 you might only need to add two inches to it so it depends on the on the actual frame size so somewhere between two and two and a quarter inches so that would give you around two foot eight to a two foot eight and a quarter as your rough opening size and then you got to look at the height and the height you can be off by a little bit more you know it's better to have a little bit more than not enough uh in that case you gotta allow for the frame over the top you also gotta allow is there hardwood going on the floor is it three quarters of an inch because that's going to raise the floor and then you got to think do i want to have a bit of a space underneath the door sometimes that lets uh the cold air returns work much better in the rooms if you ever find there's a room and it's freezing cold and you've shut the door at night and there's carpet it's probably sealing up that room pretty good if you don't have a cold air return in that particular room now if you cut a little bit off the door that the air can flow through better it won't become pressurized and it'll be get a lot more warm air to it so generally you want to have a bit of a space underneath the door what that is you could debate it but usually you want at least around three quarters of an inch underneath the door uh three quarters to one inch but some cases you know you want it fairly tight maybe a washroom for a variety of reasons that's kind of a personal preference but for sure you don't want to have the finished carpenter having to cut all the doors that's a lot of unnecessary work when we think about lean construction we think about eliminating and reducing waste and that would be big time waste that would be frustrating for whoever had to do it because they're thinking in their head if they had just thought a little bit it would have not been a problem so we've looked at walking through the house the concept of visualizing what you're looking at we've talked about a lot of points on framing members and window locations and rough opening sizes for windows and doors orienting yourself uh where uh stair where framing members are indicated on the drawings this here is sb that stands for solid bearing that means there's something being supported from above and that's driving that weight from above down through so it's being supported usually it's got things like uh beams or girder trusses from a roof truss that is creating this load and you want that weight because the roof trusses if it's a girder truss that's supporting other trusses that concentrated load to flow through the walls down into the foundation walls down through the foundation walls onto the footing down to undisturbed soil and the house is stable so that you don't get sagging or potential structural issues so whenever you see sb it's talking about solid bearing making sure that that's solidly supported if it's two by six walls that those walls are solidly supported with two by sixes right directly underneath not only on this floor but all the way through all the way down to the foundation wall from there so that's another indicator line that you will see on that these doors here so as i was saying you know you go you find the door number four and that will tell you the door size and how you make it it's also how it's swung that means the hinges are here and this particular door is what we call a left hand door means it opens to the left if you stand in the doorway and we used to always say you know there's these butt hinges right that's what they're called butt hinges regular hinges you see on a door they're called butt hinges if you stand with your butt to the butt looking this way then essentially my left hand would be here so that would be a left-hand door if it opened this way it would be a right-hand door let's take a look at that what swing does this door have is it a left or right you got it it's a left-hand door what about this door it's a right-hand door so that's how you know you're staying with your butt to the butt this would be my right arm on this side this would be my left arm on this side and that's how the door opens a lot of doors we ordered today especially in production anyways are pre-hung saves time and so you have to order them do i want left hand or do i want right hand and so you have to know those kind of things as well this is right hand door all right so that's what i wanted to cover in this video i'll be diving more deeply as we go through this series into other parts and components so hopefully this is helping you to learn more about reading construction drawings and just remember the map is not the territory know there's some differences and nuances that you have to review and understand and onward and upward we'll see you next time please uh click subscribe if you enjoyed this video leave comments questions and we'll see you in the next series bye for now