Climbing Annapurna 3: Lecture Notes

Introduction

• Objective: Climb the southeast ridge of Annapurna 3.
• Access: Helicopter is necessary due to risk of accidents with porters on steep trails.

Risks and Decisions

• Previous expeditions faced fatal slips on the mountain.
• If weather conditions are poor, the expedition will be canceled.
• Initial exploration of potential base camp location.

Location and Base Camp

• Discussion on establishing base camp near the glacier.
• Decision made to set up camp at a chosen location to facilitate access.
• The southeast ridge rises 2,800 meters from the base to the summit.

Climbing Challenges

• Previous attempts on the ridge failed; it remains unclimbed.
• Climbing over 7,500 meters requires body acclimatization to high altitude.
• Acclimatization takes time and cannot be rushed.

Current Conditions

• Two weeks into the expedition, team feels ready to attempt the climb.
• Need to assess the mountain's readiness for their ascent.
• Call made to assess weather and strategy for the climb.

Weather Concerns

• Cold temperatures and unstable weather patterns noted.
• Previous week had a mix of good and bad weather.
• Upcoming week predicted to have significant snowfall, complicating conditions.
• Descent also poses challenges due to weather unpredictability.

Climbing Strategy

• Plans laid out for daily ascent goals over the following days.
  • Tuesday: Ascend towards the Erschen Serag.
  • Wednesday: Aim for the highest possible point.
  • Thursday: Climb just below the Pfeidergipfel.
  • Friday: Attempt summit or just before it.
  • Saturday: Monitor conditions for summit attempt.

Conclusion

• Three days into the climb, weather worsens against predictions.
• Decision made to abandon the climb due to safety concerns.
• Emphasis on avoiding suicidal risks in adverse conditions.