hi everyone and welcome back to the channel my name is Yan Winer and I've been a photographer for over 20 years bringing you weekly YouTube videos focus on wild love photography camera settings and techniques Gear reviews and much more so if you don't want to miss a video make sure to subscribe to the channel I would really appreciate it over the last few weeks I had the chance to use Canon's new R5 MK I extensively in the field and got some amazing results of displaying rifle birds and beautiful Palm catus up on the COC poen I must admit though that setting up the R5 Mark I is not an easy task and it took me a few days to fine tune all the settings to get the results that I wanted in this video I'm going to share the most important settings with you but if you want to learn about everything I've changed on my R5 Mark I or maybe even get my camera settings file I've linked those for you down there in the description that should definitely make it easier for you to do all the changes on your camera or maybe even install them with just a one click but enough with the talk let's jump right in and see what the most most important settings are that we should adjust on our R5 Mark 2s let's start in the first red menu and here we can select the JPEG and hi quality which I don't use so I just left that untouched but if you're shooting in jpeg for instance here's where you can adjust the quality the next one the image type and size is quite an important one because here we can select whether we want to shoot in raw or Z and I would usually recommend shooting in coll simply because the files a little bit smaller which in return gives us a much larger buffer so we can shoot a lot more frames in a series of burst before we actually hit the buffer and at 30 frames per second that we can shoot in this camera this can be quite important because in full raw and 30 frames per second and maybe even pre-shooting activated you will hit the buffer quite quickly so the difference between C and raw is usually quite marginal so out of mind that minimal decrease in image quality when it means I can take a lot more shots and a burst of images when some fast action happens right in front of me but ultimately it's up to you if you're shooting Landscapes or something that doesn't need the big buffer then maybe raw is the better choice but otherwise C raw will give you a bigger buffer and much smaller files to deal with in the next menu I basically left everything untouched if you're shooting with a flash this is also the menu where you can make some adjustments the next menu is an interesting one the first item is the Picture Style and if you're shooting jpeg then the picture still heavily influences the look off your images but if you're shooting raw like me then all the Picture Style does is affect the look of the display jpeg on the back of your camera so it's not all that important but I like to use either neutral or standard to give me a good preview of what my raw file will actually look like and then the next item is the color space I personally like to work in Adobe RGB throughout my whole workflow so also like to set up my cameras to Adobe RGB the rest of the items are left turned off the last one the Highlight to priority is an interesting one though because it also affects raw files and basically gives you a little bit more detail in bright areas so this is something that you could play around with and see if you like the results in the next menu tab I made a few changes first of all I set the wi balance to custom and I usually use 5200 or 5400 Calin as my base which stops the camera from sometimes giving me quite warm images or too cool images especially if I shoot in cached conditions and lastly I make sure that I turn off all the noise reduction settings the six menu tab of the red menu is an interesting one because here we can select the drive mode and also our pre-shooting when it comes to the drive mode I've also put that into my my menu which I show you later how to set that up because on this camera I like to change between is the high speed mode and then a slower speed mode so in this case I usually switch between the H+ and the H mode and I've set the H mode to 20 frames per second and the H+ mod to 30 frames per second and I switched between these two frame rates because shooting at 20 frames per second is usually efficient in most cases and again it gives me an even bigger buffer whereas if I shoot at 30 frames per second I run much quicker out of the buffer space next we have the pre-shooting and this is another item that I've added to my menu that I'll show you at the end of this tutorial because I want to be able to quickly turn the pre-shooting on and off in the field and you can't do that on a button so the quickest way I've found to set that up is to put it into the green my menu and then when I press the menu button button on the back of the camera it opens up the my menu and I can quickly go to the pre-shooting and turn it on and off what the pre-shooting does is it allows us to capture images before we actually press the shutter button so the camera records a continuous loop of photos while you have press the shutter button and when you actually press the shutter button it will write the last half second of images that you've taken right onto your card which is pretty awesome the only downside with it is that you take a lot of extra images most of the time you're actually getting 15 extra raw fils onto your memory card and that can definitely add up quickly and this is also the reason why I put it into the my menu so if I know I don't need it I turn it off so I don't get all these extra images written to my memory cards and then we see a lot of items gr out in this menu and this is because I activated the blackout free shooting in the evf which we can do in Red menu tab number eight if you activate the blackout fore shooting it also locks you into the electronic shutter if you don't want to use the electronic shutter you can't use the blackout for shooting and then you have to go to shutter mode and change it from electronic to Mechanical shutter for instance what you don't usually want to turn on is the silent shutter function because that function means that the camera doesn't make any noise and that also means that for instance if you turn off the camera it won't shut down the shutter to protect your sensor so unless you're in an environment where you can make absolutely no noise like a church for instance maybe I would not activate this function because with the electronic shutter activated already then there's no noise in the camera basically anyways in the seventh menu tab you can adjust the image stabilization and you can also here change your quick menu and what items you want to have in the quick menu when you press the que on the back of the camera now we're back at the eighth menu tab and the first one I like to turn off here is all image review I find it really annoying to see the image review in the view fer or the back of the camera so I turn that off the ninth menu is also a very interesting one there isn't actually that many menu items but you can really deep dive a few levels into this menu especially when it comes up to setting your re screen and a viewfinder so what I usually like to do on the rear screen and the viewfinder I deactivate all the options that I don't like and then I just leave myself a few options that have all the items that I want to see in my viewfinder and on my rear LCD and when I press the info button and look through the viewfinder or look at the LCD screen I can toggle through the remaining options so in this case for the screen you can see that I turned off a few options and then if you select one of the options in press info you can actually Deep dive even further into the settings and decide what you want to show on the screen and so I usually just leave one or two options and then press info and in these option I then further customize what items I want to see like for instance I want to see my histogram but I don't want to see the level and then we can do the same thing with the viewfinder and here usually only leave myself one option so I go into the settings and then I'm going to decide what I want to see in that third option in my view finer and then this is just what I'm going to see in my evf all the time and one of the items I always add to my vinder is a small histogram that is set to brightness I don't like the large histogram because it just too big takes up too much of my view funder but the small histogram is a very good helper when trying to determine the correct exposure and it gives you a good indication how you're traveling in the field the exposure simulation in the view find is already good but the history is like another confirmation to make sure that you're not over or totally underexposing your images and then there's a couple other items here that are just Personal Taste whether you want to have the remaining card and a percentage or remaining images and a few other things like the lens information display in your evf next we can set the display frame rate and here I set it to smooth and I also say suppress the lower frame rate so that I always get the highest refresh rate IM view finder so that it looks nice and smooth the other items are left unchanged but one thing I always change is the high temperature cut off and I always set that to high because I want the camera to film and work as long as humanly possible it may get hot but I don't really care I prefer the camera to be hot and let me still shoot instead of just shutting off on me so if you want to be a bit more cautious with your camera you might leave that on the standard setting but normally I would recommend setting it to the high because it gives you a lot more lway in the field especially when it comes to shooting in warm conditions next we have the autofocus menu and here Canon has made a lot of changes so there's a few new things to learn and a few different kinds of settings that we have to change to make sure that it works how we wanted to in the field I like to set my cameras up with double back button autofocusing one program to do the spot autofocus similar to the DSLR autofocus and then the other one programmed to the whole area ey tracking where the camera finds a subject all over the viewfinder and tracks it for you and with these two setups I get the best of both worlds if I want to focus on a certain area or the camera get stuck on the background for instance I can use the spot autofocus to focus back onto my subject or a tree near my subject but for most other cases I like to use the ey checking that we will put onto the afon button that whenever you see bird in your vinder you simply press the afon button and the camera will then jump right onto that subject you could also use the shutter button for focusing but personally I don't like doing that so I set it up with double back button autofocus and in the case of the R5 Mark I I actually set up triple back button autofocusing with the third button being actually assigned to the ey autofocus that we will set up later on so on the first pink menu tab I'll make sure that I've set the camera to servos or tracks my animals and when it comes to the AF area this is the first time we have a few new options available now and here I have set it to the spot without tracking indicated by the little lock so that means that I have spot autofocus that I can move all over the viewfinder but it acts like a DSR autofocus it just simply focuses on wherever I put put the autofocusing field and this is exactly what I want from the spot autofocus we also have the option to have the spot autofocus with tracking and that is indicated by the same symbol but without a lock for me in most cases though I prefer to spot autofocus that doesn't have any tracking as you can see I've also deactivated a lot of autofocusing areas the ones that I don't think I will be used and the reason is that later on we're going to assign one of the buttons to cycle through these areas and this is especially important when we're using the I autofocus so I try to minimize the if areas to the ones that are potentially used and got rid of all the other ones so it's much easier to cycle through all of them with the click of a button so in my case I've left the spot autofocus with tracking and without tracking the smaller area focus and then also the whole area autofocus and because we've selected spot autofocus here with no tracking as our base autofocusing mod a lot of items in the autofocusing menu will be gr out now like the rest in this current tap in the next menu you can see a lot more grade out items like the subject detection for instance but don't freak out because we've selected to spot autofocus without tracking this is all great out but we will set up the proper tracking autofocus later on in the custom button menu here we can also select people priority where you can tell the camera basically what face it should always find in a group of people for instance and we also have the action priority but that's something that's only interesting for sport if you want to enable that because there you can can say I'm shooting soccer and I want you to always focus on a person with the ball and then this is something that the camera will try to follow and it seems to work really well so if you're shooting sport you might want to actually go to setting up a tracking autof Focus here instead of using the spot with no tracking and then also activate the action priority but for most cases especially Wildlife like what we do I would have to spot with no tracking as my base and then set up another button for the whole area tracking the third pink menu tab is very interesting one and one of the major changes when it comes to the autof focus on the R5 Mark I because instead of the old cases we now just have an automatic case and a manual case and I must say that when I used the R5 Mark I for the first few days in the field i f to autof focus on the stand that settings very jumpy and very aggressive and it often times seem to be too hyperactive for me jumping off my subject instead of sticking nicely to the bird that I was focusing on so first I played around with the auto settings but later I decided to go to the manual settings and also change the parameters there which gave me much calmer much better tracking autofocus so I jumped into the manual settings and then went to the tracking sensitivity and set that to minus 2 and then I went to the acceleration and deceleration and set that to minus one which just gave me much better result and a much calmer autofocus for faster action a funter automatic settings not too bad and it's worthwh playing around with them but for Purge birds in particular or the Birds amongst the branches my manual settings work much better for me in the fourth menu tab I haven't made too many changes but one that I always like to make sure of is that the server first image priority is set to release and not focus because when I want to shoot quickly I don't want the camera to stop until it finds autofocus that throws me off sometimes so whenever I press a shutter button I basically want the camera to also take a photo in the fifth menu is now where we can actually limit the autofocusing areas that I showed you before so in here I have just simply activated the spot with tracking spot withd not tracking the smaller area and the whole area autofocus but which ones you like or don't like will ultimately be your personal preference but I Tred to limit them so I can use another button to cycle quickly through them I also set up the orientation linked autofocusing points here and there are like the third one the best separate autofocusing points Point only so if I'm shooting horizontally and I move my autofocusing field around and then go to vertical and back to horizontal it will remember the last field that I used in horizontal mode and also the last field I used in vertical mode in the six menu I left manual focus pecking off but if you do a lot of manual focus in video for instance it makes sense to turn that on because it will indicate in a red or blue color for instance which areas you're actually focusing and what areas are in focus and what's important is here to set up the lens electronic manual autofocus and you want to turn that on because otherwise you're not able to manually interfere with the autofocusing when you're using the if lenses and here you can see all the settings that I've put in to make sure that the manual focus ring works all the time what you can definitely do with all these different autofocusing settings and pre-shooting and no pre-shooting is also consider to set up three custom modes with different settings so for instance you could have one custom mode with pre-shooting enabled one custom mode with a higher frat or lower frat although personally I usually like to use custom mod of video but not so much photo so in this case I go to to my menu and have all these items into my menu and for easy access but I'll show you later on how to set up but for instance if you have an R5 that you use for sport and Wildlife you might want to have one custom function you set up to whole area autofocus tracking people with the action priority activated as well and then another custom function where you set up spot autofocus Su Bas and then eye tracking on the AF on button similar to what do I do here so you can then have the best of both worlds without having to change all the settings all the time because now you can quickly switch between the two custom functions I didn't change anything in the first two blue menus and in the third one I went in to make sure to go to magnification settings here to make sure that I go in and go to actual size so when I press the little magnifying icon on the back of the camera it jumps to 100% and shows me if the image is nice and sharp and then I also set the magnify position to from Focus point and also to maintain the position and then the last Blue menu I'm make sure to activate the Highlight alert or the blinkies that show me on the back of the camera if certain areas are blown out on my images and this is a very good indicator to make sure that we're not overexposing our fils in the purple menu I didn't make any notable changes and now we're on to the yellow menu here we can change for instance where we want to record our files on both cards or separate cards or photos on one card and videos on another card but I usually just set it to auto switch cards because I just shoot the safe Express card normally all the time and then only once that card is full I want it to overflow onto the SD card I don't back up onto the SD card because the bottlenecks the camera too much and makes it too slow so I just have to write on the safe Express card because that gives me the fastest speed and in this menu you can also go in and change your file name for photos and for videos in the second yellow menu you can set your time zone your time and whether you want to shoot an NTC or pile format if you're shooting in pal then your frame R will be 2550 and 100 frames per second whereas if you set it to ntsc your frame rate for video will be 30 60 and 120 frames per second and then there's one more interesting one here and that is the beep I know a lot of you guys love shooting with a little bit of sound with the electronic shutter and this is where you set it up weirdly you can't actually set up the sound before you activate the beep which is not really intuitive so what you have to do is you enable the beep and then it unlocks the volume volum for you and you can go into the volume settings and then make all the changes well I would normally turn off all sounds except for a little bit of Shadow sound if you really want it even though I personally much prefer to totally silent cameras in the third menu I set my screen brightness to seven you don't really need that when you're inside but outside on a sunny day it's definitely helpful to have it as bright as possible I left the view finder brightness on auto and then I also went in here and go on to the screen and view on that display and set that to Auto to so whenever I put my face onto the camera I have the evf activated and when I pull it away it jumps straight onto the LCD screen in the fourth menu I didn't make any changes and because I don't have all the batteries yet for my R5 Mark I I actually have quite sort of soft power saving settings as well where the screen dims quite quickly and the camera turns off pretty quickly as well but once I have more batteries I usually disable all these settings because I want the camera to not turn off on me just in the worst possible moment but if you want to a bit of power these settings actually work quite well for me over the last few weeks and then in the fifth menu tab we have our custom settings where we can register them then we also have the menu item where you can either save or load settings onto or from a memory card and this is quite helpful and also one of the things that I'll provide you with my new PDF guide where I can save all my menu settings and then write them onto the card and this can be great idea for instance if you want to trial out different settings you could save your current settings onto the memory card make a lot of changes and if you don't like the changes you simply load your old settings back this is also what I would recommend if you buy the PDF guide with my camera settings because you may not like how the camera acts when you have all my settings on it so save your on settings first then load my settings if you hate my settings load your old settings back on and here's also where we can register the custom functions and one important item here is to auto update settings that you want to decide upon if you use the custom function if you enable it it means me that whichever change you make while you're in a custom function will save automatically and next time you go to that custom function those changes will be present so this can be very good or very annoying depending on what you want to do normally I enable it so whenever I change something in the field that needs to be changed for the current shooting conditions I have it available next time I jump back but I know other people prefer to always have the same settings dialed into the custom functions and then you want to turn this off to actually create a custom function what you have to do is to set the camera for instance to manual mode dialing all the settings you want in the menu and shutter speed aperture everything and then you go back to the yellow menu go to custom functions and then you go to register settings and then you can decide you want to register this to C1 C2 or C3 and once you registered it's now saved at the custom function and then if you go to the custom functions all these saved settings will be there and if you want to register another custom function you go back to manual mode for instance make all the changes you want to make again and registered as a new custom function you can have up to three custom functions in your camera and now we're on to the new menu the green menu where we can select a lot of different things have some different wordings and we can also select the I autofocus and this is also now where we assign all our custom buttons which previously set in the orange menu so now we want to go in and set up all the custom buttons on the R5 Mark I and this is a very important step I like to do back button autofocusing and on the R5 Mark I I actually do triple back button autof focusing so what I do first here is I go to the shutter button and set it to metering start only the video record button I left untouched but then I went to the multifunction button and assigned it to cycle through the different autofocusing areas that I have selected so whenever I press the multifunction button on top of the camera I now cycle from locked spot to spot with tracking to Zone and then to the whole area autofocus and later on when we set up the eye autof Focus this will be handy and the main reason I set it up that way you wouldn't really necessarily have to set it up that way and so you could assign the multifunction button to something else but I found it quite useful like that for now the next icon the little light on top of the camera I've set to turn on and off the eye autofocus we'll set up the eye autofocus later on but for now I think it's important that we have one button on the camera that turns the eye autofocus on and off because in certain situations I found it quite useful in the field but in other situations it was quite annoying or didn't really work so I need one switch on the camera where I can quickly turn it on and off depending on the situation and then the next button is the afon button which I've assigned to the ey tracking autofocus and then we toggle down all the way to eye detection autofocus and select that that means whenever we press the afon button the camera will automatically override the spot autofocus finds the subject all over our viewfinder and then tracks it for us which is the main autofocus that I use all the time I just don't want to have this set up as my base autofocus because with my base autofocus I like to spot autofocus because that allows me to focus on whatever I want whereas if you had the ey tracking autofocus as your base autofocus it would be very hard to focus on certain areas because it may just jump onto something else that you don't actually want to focus on and this this is why I like to have spot autofocus as my base but the ey tricking autofocus on the if on button and I use that most of the time and then next on the star button I actually assigned the focusing for the spot autofocus to it you could also do that on the front shutter button if you prefer but I like back button autofocus and I made a few videos on why to use back button autofocus you can check this out already told you that I use basically triple back button autof focusing on the R5 Mark I and this is where I set that up so the third rear button the furthest one on the right are dedicate to the ey control autofocus and here you can decide whether you want to set it to moving autofocus point and start autofocus by I control or just set it to move autofocusing Point by I control I show you how to set up the ey control a little bit later but I explain to you how I want it to function so on the top light icon button I can turn the I control autof focus on and off and then you see this little purple or yellow thing bounce around your viewfinder wherever you look at once you've calibrated it which we do later on so for now let's pretend we've already activated the autof focus and calibrated it and now wherever you look the autofocus will go but now you actually need to be able to focus with it because now if you just look at something nothing will happen so we dedicate the third rear button to the ey controlled autofocus if you simply select that it moves the autofocus field to that area you look at an area press the third rear button and now the autofocus field will automatically jump to the area that you've looked at and then you can press the star button for instance and the autofocus would then do the normal spot autofocus that you've selected from that area or you can select what I've selected for now is that you want the eye control autofocus to move the field there and also start tracking once you press that third rear button and this is also the reason why I've selected the multifunction button to cycle through my autofocusing areas because if I intend to use the eye control autofocus I often don't want to use the normal spot autofocus but also the tracking spot autofocus so in this case if I use the eye control autofocus I will actually toggle to the spot focus with tracking and then I look at a certain area press the third rear button the camera will then move the spot autofocusing field to that area and ALS initiate the tracking which can be very hand if you're photographing a group of birds for instance so let's say there's three birds in front of you the normal afon button doesn't find the right Bird so you can activate the eye control autofocus on top of the camera stay at the bird you want to focus on press the third rear button activate the spot focus with tracking and then the camera will focus on that bird that you're looking at and the tracking will also jump on that bird's head and then track that all over the you finder if it starts moving so it sounds a little bit complicated but if you try it out a few times it will feel natural to you and actually work quite well in the field if you want to quickly focus on a certain area and then if I had enough of the eye control autofocus I turn it off on the top of the camera and cycle back with the multifunction button also to give me the normal spot autofocus that is locked and has no tracking again I'd love to show you how it actually works but you can't film it because you need your eye on the camera to actually be able to see what's happening and to engage that eye control autofocus at the start of this video also told you that I set up the my menu with a few important items that I quickly wanted to access and because I quickly wanted to access these with my right hand I assigned the depth of field preview button to open up the menu so I can press that with my right hand ring finger and it instantly brings up the menu and I can quickly turn on and off the pre-shooting for instance which cannot be assigned to a button so what I normally do if I start shooting I go into the menu toggle all the way down to my menu and then I keep shooting so whenever I now press the menu button I'm already on the my menu tab and can quickly change a frame rate or turn the pre-shooting on and off or change certain video settings but you could definitely assign something else with this button as well if you don't mind using the menu with your left hand but often when I'm shooting and just quickly want to change something I find it more convenient to just press it with my right hand because that's on the camera already and then the joystick I set to moving the autof focusing fields around for video I didn't make a lot of changes but one change I made that's very important for video is that the multifunction button in video mode will actually cycle through my custom shooting modes very handy because it's annoying to press the mode button on top and then change from like custom mode one to custom mode 3 so if I quickly want to change between the custom mods in video I can just simply press the multifunction button and cycle through the different custom functions and this is something you could do for the photo mod as well for instance if you're using a lot of dis custom mods and to quickly change between the two everything else for the video custom functions are basically left unchanged but there's a few more changes we do in the video menu later on and now we're finally at the I control menu the fourth green tap and here we can activate the ey control autofocus even though personally I've done that with the top button the lighting icon button that lets us turn the eye focus on and off so if you want to calibrate the ey control autofocus here first we go to calibration and here I would recommend to run as many different scenarios as possible inside outside different lighting situations whatever you can think of the more often you do it the more accurate it will be and you should also register different settings in the calibration numbers for instance for glasses and no glasses so the more you refine it the better it will work so in here you calibrate it register the settings and then whenever we turn it on and off at the top of the camera it will default to whichever settings you've dialed in here and now we're on to the orange menu which has gotten a little bit Slimmer because a lot of things from the orange menu have moved into the green menu so the main things I changed here was to restrict the shooting mods because I only want to have manual mod and the three custom functions available so I can quickly toggle through them with the multi-function button especially when it comes to video If you use other mods I wouldn't restrict them all but I always like to restrict them to the mods that I don't use so it's easier to quickly toggle through them the third orange menu tab is very interesting because here we can select the continuous shooting speed and so I've said high speed continuous plus to 30 frames per second high speed to 20 frames per second and low speed to 15 frames per second but you could change these settings around and this allows me to quickly then go into the menu and change from like 30 frames per second to 20 frames per second or you could also do that with the Q button on the back of the camera as well so on a camera like the R5 Mark I that has a very high frat I think it's useful to have a slower frat that you can use the majority of the time as well because it allows you to have a bit of a bigger Buffon so I like to often switch between the 30 or the 20 frames a second depending on the situation and then in the fourth orange menu tab I made a few changes I set the aperture settings without lens to beond which is nice you can already set your aperture even if there's no lens on the camera and then I also activated the shutter release without a lens because sometimes I want to show the shutter in a video and then I want it to work and then the last one retrack lens on power off is a very important one if this is activated it means that the camera defocuses every time it goes to sleep or you turn it off whereas if you turn this off then the camera will stay focused on that area that you last have focused on which is much more useful so this setting is activated by default because certain lenses retract out a little bit I think some of the 35ml lenses to and if you turn this setting off then this lens will stay protruded out but for most of us this is a extremely annoying setting and should definitely be turned off because then you don't lose focus every time you turn off the camera and then last we have the green my menu tab and here I'll put the most important settings that I want to access and change all the time I would have liked to put actually more items there but you can only have a limited amount of items there which is a little bit annoying but you could also create another tab that has a few more items in there if you want to register an item to the my menu you simply go to configure at the bottom and that will bring up all the items from the menu you have to scroll through them until you find the one that you put in there and then it will be there for your easy access another great thing about using the my menu is that you can actually go to the settings in the my menu tab and then set up the camera that it will always open the my menu page first when you press the menu button or the newly assigned button for the menu on the camera and in the last screen my menu you could add for instance another menu tab if you feel like the items you've in this one are not enough or you could have one for video and one for photo for instance and now that you've dialed in the right settings for your R5 MK I it's time to also make sure that you get the most out of your Ralls and I would love to help you to do that with my Pro sets my masterclass and my brush pack with my Pro sets I allow you with just one click to transform your RS and in my master class I teach you step by step everything you need to know in Photoshop and with my brush pack I make layer masking in Photoshop so much easier for you so if that's of interest to you make sure to check this out down there in the description and that's Thea of settings done I really hope they will help you to set up the camera in a good way and get the most out of it without some of these changes I definitely found the R5 Mark to a lot harder to use especially when it comes to the autofocus that definitely needed a bit of fine-tuning and refining to not be so aggressive and jumpy anymore but now a lot of you guys like video as well so let's see how I set up my video settings so first of all for video I've created three custom functions so I set up manual video mode dialed in all the settings I want and then I have custom function one either for 8K or 4K with cropping with 30 frames per second in the second custom function I've set it up for the 120 frames per second so high speed so I don't have to go into the menu all the time so I set that to like a 200 of a second shutter speed and then I put the high frame rate in and whenever I go to custom function two I know I'll have the slow motion available and then the third custom function is the most important for video because whenever you press the red record button on top of the R5 Mark I in photo mode it will instantly start recording with with whatever settings you've DED in as custom function number three in video mode so these settings are crucially important and normally I set that to my go to video settings so in my case that's usually 4K fine so oversampled 4K at 25 frames per second or 30 frames per second and then I set up the whole area tracking and also the animal that protection so whenever I press the red record button in photo mode the camera will default to filming in 4k fine at 20 or 30 frames per second I've dialed in like a 50th or 60th of my shutter speed and also set the iso and all my log settings and whatever else I need so whenever I press the red record button it quickly jumps onto filming with pretty good settings and I've also activated the auto update settings for the custom function so whenever I make a change on the day it will stay within that custom function so when I jump back to the photo mode and then jump back to record video again I already have the right settings styled in so for video I think using custom functions makes a lot of sense because a lot of the different video features like the highspeed for instance require you to also make a lot of changes in the menu which is quite time consuming so having these as custom functions safe that you can quickly toggle through them with the multifunction button like I've set it up already in the custom function make it so much easier to use for video so if we go to the movie recording size menu this has changed a little bit as well but basically in the first little tab we can select 4K or full HD for instance in the second tab we can select available frame rates depending on which other settings withd in and then in the third tab at the moment we only have one compression algorithm the lgop so whenever you want to select a certain frame mod you might actually have to go back out of this menu and activate the high frame mod for instance and then once you go back in you have to 100 frames or 120 frames or 240 frames per second available now so whenever something is gray out in this first menu the movie recording size it means you have some other function activated that blocks a certain frame and you might have to go back out of it and activate something else or turn something else off to be able to have a certain frame rate available and then when it comes to the recording format I've set it to the ycc 422 10bit profile but you could also select raw here but if you select raw then it will default to shoot in 8k next we have the movie cropping which can be quite handy as well because it applies a 1.6 crop to your video but it actually still gives you the full 4K readout even though it's not oversampled anymore but still pretty decent quality so if a bird is too far away for instance turning that on can give you some quite nice videos sometimes or you can get a head shot like I did of the rifle bird for instance you can also shoot photo and video at the same time but this is jpeg only and it's great out currently because I've activated Canon log 2 as my profile and this doesn't work then in the fourth red tab we can select whether we want to shoot in log or standard format if you're shooting in standard format then you also have to select the right picture style because the Picture Style will affect the look of your video but I like to use the log format because it gives you much more dynamic range in my videos and makes it much nicer to edit them but if you don't want to do a lot of editing then shooting in standard format is probably the better idea if you want to learn all about video I also made a video settings and technique video that you should check out that I posted a few weeks ago so if you want to set up log on your camera you go to custom picture and then I selected Canon log 2 which gives us the most dynamic range of all the different Canon log modes in the fifth red menu we can find a white balance and I definitely set a custom white balancer Vue to make sure that it doesn't suddenly change while I'm filming a clip the eighth menu I just Chang the zebra settings to on so I see when I'm filming which areas are getting too bright and I said it's a level 1 to 90 plus - 5% and level two to 95% and in the 10th menu I made sure that the auto power off temperature is set to high so I don't have to deal with overheating until it gets really serious and that definitely gives me extra recording time which I appreciate next I made sure that I turn off the annoying warning that comes on a lot of times when you shoot video so here you can turn that off so it doesn't come on anymore and then it comes to the video autof focus with video auto focus I use it quite simple I either do manual focus or I set up the whole area auto focus and activate the ey tracking so the camera finds the bird all over the refund and tracks it by itself and on the R5 Mark I in particular this works exceptionally well and the auto focus works extremely well as well and the image stabilization has also improved to the degree that you can do a lot of nice and handheld video so in the first pink menu I said to moovie server autofocus to enable and as autofocus area I select the whole area autofocus then in the second menu tab I select subject to detect animals I detection Auto and I don't register people but I changed the switching track subjects to zero to make it a little bit more locked on onto my subject because just like the photo autof Focus I found the video autof focus a little bit too aggressive as well and because I found the video focus a bit too aggressive as well I'll dial back some of the settings in the next menu tab as well so in both cases the autofocus calmed down a bit more and stayed locked onto the subject a little bit better and it actually worked extremely well when I was filming the rifle Birds usually in the past the camera would always jump off the moment the bird opens its wings but with the A5 Mark 2 that didn't happen anymore with these focusing settings and that was very good to see and in the fifth menu I just make sure that I have the manual focus available again if you're shooting video the second yellow tab is important because here you can select whether you have pile or NTC standard and that will affect the frame rates you have available in the video so in most cases you probably want to set it to ntsc but if you're filming inside like I do for instance setting it to pile may make sense because otherwise you could have flickering in your videos in the fifth menu is an important one again because here we register our custom functions already told you how to do it you basically set your camera up in manual mode or whichever mode you want to do dial in all the settings Shutter Speed video frame rate cropping no cropping High frame rate certain mods raw log no log and then you save these as a custom function and then you have three or four custom functions available in the video I've set up to toggle with the multifunction button on top through the different custom functions so I can easily change between the different mods that I've set up and here would also recommend to enable the auto update settings again so whenever you make a change it will automatically update and when you go back to it it will still be there and this is especially important for the custom function 3 because whenever we press the record button in photo mode it will film with these settings so a good technique can be to at the start of a shoot go into custom function 3 make sure it looks good for that day and then go back to photo mode and now instead of having to switch between photo and video with the switch all the time you can simply take some pictures press the red record button it will film with the settings you've done in and when you press the button again it will jump back to folder which I find very handy in the field in the green menu we've already customized our buttons and the main change I've done for video is simply to sign the multifunction button at the top to toggle between my different custom mods or cycle them one important one I like to change in this menu though is the function of the shutter button for video because sometimes it's hard to find that little red record button on top of the camera so I like to activate the shutter button for movie recording as well so whenever I'm in movie recording mode I can simply press the shutter button to stop and start for recording as well for video there isn't as much to change because a lot of the changes we've deal in in the photo menu also translate to the video menu and if you make a change in video mode you also make a change in photo mode so you sometimes have to be careful what you actually adjust in the different modes because certain functions apply to both photo and video and that's it we're done I hope that these settings will really help you to set up your R5 Mark I and get fantastic results in the field and if you or if you have any questions or comments make sure to leave them in the comments check out the PDF guide for the R5 m 2 and all the settings down there end of description give me a thumbs up for the video check out my channel membership and hit that subscribe button and I will see you in another video very soon bye