Whether you're bleaching your client's hair or your own hair at home, this video has one of my biggest bleaching shares to help you get the best results without damaging the hair. Let's talk ratios. Hello and welcome to the world of Craigius. That's me. I'm Craig and this is my channel where we get into all things hair and sometimes a little bit of beauty. Yes, bleach ratios. a complete gamecher and something I have made content on before. There's an entire bleach playlist, bleaching playlist here on my channel, constantly telling you where to find things because there's almost 800 bits of content here on my channel which all has an educational slant. But there is that playlist for you to watch after this video. I will link it in the description. Bleach ratio. So the ratio of bleach to peroxide, you might call it developer. Same same, makes all the difference. And that is exactly what we're going to get into in this video. Let's start at the beginning with what a ratio is because there does seem to be some confusion. I'm an educator so I always write things in ratios. A ratio, say it again, is a universal measurement of amounts. Okay? So, it means that I don't have to give it to you in grams or mill milliliters or ounces. I can just give you the ratio and then you can decide how you want to measure things out. Okay? So, for example, if I have a one part bleach and two parts peroxide, I'm going to take you through my preferred ratios for things in a second. That's what this is going to be all about because I know they're helpful. If you got one part bleach piece and two parts peroxide, that's a one to two ratio. regardless of, you know, if you want to have, for example, let's give you it in, let's give you it in grams because that's how I work here in the UK when I measure things out. Then you would have 15 g of that bleach powder and you would have 30 g of the peroxide because it's one to two. Now, just so that this makes it perhaps a little bit more straightforward, if for example you were making an apple crumble, you might have 15 g of sugar and 30 g of flour to make the topping. And that's a 1:2 ratio. So, ratios are very, very straightforward and they're a great way of me being able to share the measurements that I use with you regardless of how you measure things out. Something else that's important to remember is that ratios apply regardless of brand of hair color. And it's always or bleach and it's always the bleach, hair color, toner, whatever it is. It's always the the main part, you know, the thing that has the color or is doing the lifting that comes first. I get asked that a lot. So, which bits the bleach? Which bits the bleach? It's always the first thing. Okay. So, if it was that 1:2, it' be one part bleach and two parts peroxide. Lots of hand movements today. Before we get into what I use different ratios for, and I'm going to put examples on the screen, so it's very, very visual. The inserts in an edit take a long time, but it's definitely worth it. Just a reminder that if you enjoy this video and find it helpful, you know exactly what to do. If you share this with someone or like it, it means that my content gets pushed out to more people. And of course, if you want to see what is coming on my channel and you want to stay up to date with the videos that come out every Tuesday, my short form content and the things I post in my community tab, I love my community over here. You folks are amazing. Yeah. Yes, you are. If you want to stay up to date with that, make sure that you're subscribed and hit the bell to turn on your notifications. Right. So, what exactly would I use a 1:1 ratio for? Ooh. So, if you remember just one thing from this video, don't point at the screen, Craig. If you remember just one thing from this video, please let it be this. Your power is in your powder or cream. If you use a cream bleach, okay? Rather than someone shouting at the screen, I don't use a powder. The power is in the powder. That means that it's your bleach that makes the mix powerful. The more peroxide/developer you add to it, the less power it has regardless of what volume. If you want to see videos on volume, peroxide volume, for 20 volume will get you the same lift as 40. Yes, it will. Don't tell me it won't. It will. There is a video all about peroxide volumes here on my channel in that bleaching playlist. So, the power is in your powder. So that quite simply means that a one:1 ratio, yes, one one is the most powerful. People will tell you that you can't mix bleach one. It's too thick. That's not true. Blondor that I use, the Wella um Blondor, which is the Wella portfolio of lighteners, I can mix that one to one and use it. Yes, it's a bit thicker, but if you're dealing with someone like Zoe's hair here, okay, who is a natural level four, I mean, those roots were frightening, a natural level, perhaps even a bit darker than a four, and you want to get them as light as possible, then you need the energy because I only ever do a bleach, a global bleach application once. Again, I can't get into that too much in this video because it will be too long and people will complain. So there are videos that explain it all though. So a onetoone ratio is the most powerful if you're working on a darker base or if something's tricky to lift. Of course, you always need to pay close attention to the integrity of the hair and the sensitivity of the hair. If the hair is already very damaged, don't use a 1:1 ratio. But this is what we're talking about in this video, ratios. One, most powerful. Moving on. Next up, one to two. the most universally understood ratio, the ratio that most hair professionals use there. Some lighteners do say one to one and a half, but we're going to and that's great. That's fine, and that's not a bad thing. Of course, remember that you can mix bleach up to whatever ratio you want it to be. You know, you're not going to get struck by lightning if you mix it up to something else other than what it says on the packet. Of course, it's important to know the products that you're using, whether you're doing your hair at home or you're doing, you know, your client's hair. That's the one. And you must always measure. How can you measure a ratio if you can't Don't eyeball it. Don't I Please don't eyeball things. Please don't. So, a 1:2 ratio is the one that a lot of people know. It's the one that I use mainly for highlighting because the bleach is in a foil packet and you're using body heat to get max incubation, max lift. Videos here on my channel. And then I also use a 1:2 ratio most often for global lightening. Okay? So, and it is a ratio that is very understood and there'll be hair professionals now watching this that will be nodding their heads. And regardless of what peroxide you're going to mix it with, a 1:2 ratio is the one and I would never mix anything with above 20 volume, but that's just me. Again, there's educational content here on my channel. But a 1:2 ratio is the one that is most used throughout professional hairdressing. So we're going to jump ahead a little bit. You could mix a lightener at a 1 to3 ratio. I don't generally ever do that, but you could. Nothing. you know there the rules that as long as you understand the products that you're using and that sodium or potassium per sulfate which is what bleach is is a very powerful chemical and obviously peroxide is a powerful catalyst as long as you understand that then you could mix it at 1 to three but now we're talking about 1 to four now this is a ratio that I use a lot for color removal for hair color removal be it that I've already done a sodium oxymethylene twostep doesn't smell very nice color remover and the hair is very warm. There's a whole playlist about removing color here on my channel. I'm sorry I keep directing you but I am getting so many comments now of like could you do a video on this? Could you do a video on that? I've probably already got it. So once you've done the sodium oxyth oxythylene, what some of you might know as color oops or any of those things that are sodium oxythylene based then I would often once I've done that process and I'd lifted it and it got very very warm because it will I would go in with a 1:4 ratio because the hair is already sensitized depending on how much pigments needed to be lifted out and what the end result was going to be. But that's my preferred 1 to4 preferred ratio for color removal. I also love that ratio for removing direct dye. Direct bleach does not push direct dye color further into the hair. That is not true. That is a myth that someone has made up. If the hair is stained, then you need to remove those pigment molecules and the only way to do it in my opinion is bleach. So a 1:4 ratio is extremely helpful. Now let's talk bleach baths. Now I would never ever advise anybody to do a bleach bath. There's an awful lot of talk around bleach baths on the Tinterweb. All those Reddit ninjas in the dead of night. The reason being that number one, these these mixes are often eyealled. That's really not good. You need to measure these things out because they are chemicals. And in my opinion, you're better off doing a one to five mix. Forget, forget the shampoo. Don't mix shampoo with bleach. You don't need to. It just causes you problems in that it changes the chemical reaction of the actual bleach and the peroxide together. So, I would probably say a one to5 mix with 20 volume is a far more effective way than doing some crazy mix. I'm sorry. Let's not call anyone crazy. A crazy mix in a dispensary where you're just shoving a bit of this and a bit of that in. You need it to be very controlled. So, as as far as I'm concerned, forget the bleach bath, which is also a bit of a break room myth. You're far better off going for something that is very controlled. And if you are going to do that on on hair that's very sensitized. Please, please, please watch it. Stay with it. Do not leave. And be very, very careful that you are maintaining the integrity of the hair. Ratios are here to help us. Whether you are doing your own hair at home or you're a hair pro like me. And you know, if you remember one thing from this video, please let it be that the power is in your powder. It's not about having a higher peroxide volume or a strong bleach. I get asked a lot, what's the strongest bleach? Blime me. Use ratios instead. To recap, one one is the most powerful. One to two is what we use generally as hair professionals to do highlighting or global lightening. And then one to three, that's the one. One to three, that could be a mix that you choose to use. Not something I use very much. One to four is what I use after I've removed hair color from the hair or if I want to remove direct dye that's hanging around. And no, it won't push it further into the hair. And one to five you might use as a bleach bath. You know, if you just want to shift something out a little bit. What volume you use with those is up to you. It depends on what you're trying to do. Of course, the higher the peroxide level, the quicker the reaction, not more lift. If you've enjoyed this video and found it helpful, you know exactly what to do. You folks are great. If you're new here, hi. And if you've been here a while, thank you very much. Thank you for all of your support. That's it for this time. You all take lots of care. I'll see you. And remember, ratios. I'll see you all in the next one.