welcome back to my bathroom! and welcome to
episode one of the hair cutting series if you're new here my name is Brittany I'm a cosmetology
instructor is here with Dr W a real medical doctor and this bathroom here this is the redneck Salon
yee-haw doctor by the end of this series you're going to be able to complete several different
haircuts either on yourself or on someone else and most importantly you're going to understand
why you're doing what you're doing the theory behind it for this entire series I'm going to be
referencing Milady the 13th volume you don't need this book or even to be in cosmetology school to
follow along I'll have visual a visual aids up throughout this but if you do watch this entire
series let me know I'll print your cosmetology license off Photoshop these first few episodes
are mainly Theory I'm going to do my best to make it fun for you but I want to be up front that it
is a lot of textbook information but it's super important that we dive into the theory behind
hair cutting before we actually go in straight for the kill and start cutting hair because like
most things in life you have to learn the rules before you can break them and once you learn them
it's game on baby break the rules if you're in this book with me it's going to be on page 358.
we're going straight into head forms and reference points when we're talking about the head form
we're literally just talking about the shape of the head within the head form or shape is what
we refer to as reference points these are just points in the head where the surface of the head
changes shape an example would be the Apex which is the highest point of the head ears are also a
reference point the jawline could be one as well reference points are extremely important because
they're going to save you in a lot of ways not only is it going to help you create balance on
the right and the left side of the face or head form shape whatever you want to call it it also
allows you to recreate the haircut and customize the haircut to that individual when we're hair
cutting we have to remember that just because a haircut looks nice on kookachoo Katie does
not mean that it's going to look the same on big b Betty you have to take in consideration how
that person's head is shaved where their reference points are and what suits their face shape the
first reference point we're going to talk about today is called the apex apex literally means the
highest point of something I think of Apex the game but think of Apex a mountain tip top of the
mountain in our case we're talking about the top of the head the highest point of the head draw
a hairline on this little gal here we're gonna take a standard comb and place it this way or
this way but you're taking the comb and bouncing it on balancing it on the top of the head where
the comb is sitting flat that is the Apex or the highest point of your head Apex right here moving
forward you're going to hear a lot about the Apex that's where most of these sectioning takes place
we always start or majority of the time we start at the Apex so you can't just assume the Apex
is the middle of the head because sometimes it's not again why one haircut will look completely
different on two different people you could do the same cut but because they have different head
forms and shapes it looks completely different that's why it can be a little annoying when people
or clients bring in a photo a celebrity photo of like let's just say Celine Dion and they want
those bangs honey you're going to need a lot more than a good haircut to look like now you're going
to need a lot more she has a perfect forehead and you your forehead is about this big you're gonna
need to go buy a new forehead and then come back to me maybe maybe we can make it work Apex highest
Point tippy top of the head Four Corners this is literally just four corners of the head now the
head is round but pretend if the head was Square you would have four corners [Music] this is where
weight gathers one of my biggest pet peeves when I just kind of people watch and just staring
at people and I see that their hairdresser or whoever cut their hair themselves whatever doesn't
matter but didn't account for the four corner and didn't either round it off or remove that bulk of
weight so the Four Corners is extremely important when cutting hair especially on shorter lobs
Bobs kebabs whatever you want to call them two different ways to find the Four Corners Place
the comb on the top of the head Apex here Place Another comb on top and you're gonna have one two
three four corners corner corner corner corner so pretty much you're just pretending there's an
x on the top of the head where the ends of the Combs are that is your corner another way is
to rest the comb flat on the side of the head on the forehead that's a corner that's going
to be massive weight do it again on the back see that corner the opposite to glue the bone
opposite physical bone this is the bone that is protruding at the base of your head or scalp
skull you can take your hand and you can feel it it has like a little dip how to find this
the technical way is to place your comb at the hairline lay it flat against the head and when
it starts lifting off do you see that how the comb is lifting off the head that is where that
bone lives right here this is a super important reference point when we're talking about short
haircuts especially men's haircuts when we get into fading parietal Ridge this is the widest part
of the head sometimes you'll hear it referred to as the crest Crest paradel Ridge same thing to
find the parietal parietal Ridge you're going to take your comb place it flat on the side here
where your ear is where the comb is lifting off see this right here that is the parietal Ridge
it's this little section where the hair starts to bend or the head starts to bend excuse me
again very important when we're talking about short haircuts this is a very big transition point
from short to long in most cases now we're going to move on to the areas of the head the front is
literally the front of the head to find its exact location find the Apex here and you take this and
you divide the head ah usually it lands behind the ear kind of Drew the hairline wrong everything
in front of this is the front when you found the front you've also found the back so this is
considered the back of the head for the top for the most part it's literally the top we found
the Apex we're going to find the parietal Ridge right here again you're splitting the head in
half from the Apex so everything in this portion is considered the top think of a men's haircut
longer on the top shorter on the sides this is the part that's going to be longer this parietal
Ridge is your blending or fading area where two different lengths meet you have to 45 degree blend
them together so it's not a like hey there long top bowl cut with a shade so I don't know I don't
know y'all though because I was at the skate park yesterday and I saw some hair I saw some hair
these men they are looking snazzy bringing back these mullets bringing back bowl cuts I loved it
this imaginary line continues everything in this portion is considered the crown crown on the top
of the head this is the area where you're gonna see cowlicks whirls Swirls and Twirls we'll get
into how to accommodate for that later you change shape and change direction to make everything
appear as if it's one length the sides are literally the sides of the head five one side two
they start at the back of the ear again I drew my ear wrong the ear should be right there they
start at the back of the ear and move forward so here forward is considered a side side the
nape is the back of the neck remember to find the opposite particular occipital pull bone place the
comb at the hairline where it starts to leave the head right over here imaginary line here this is
the name back of the neck nape neck nape neck the bang area also called The Fringe area is where the
bangs are created at the front of the head if you take your comb lay it on the hairline again just
like you did on the back where the comb is leaving the head is the bang or Fringe area hang on I drew
her hairline like way crazy so you place the comb here resting right here this tells me where to
start your bangs according to your head form or your head shape that you were born with because
again no one's head shape is the same a lot of times hairdressers make the mistake of pulling
the bangs from the Apex which isn't a bad look it's actually kind of trendy right now but that
is a lot of hair to pull forward so to take bangs from back here can be kind of scary on people
like me who are basically bald that's half my dang hair okay that is pretty much all of it how
you determine the rest of the bang is by the Four Corners so again the comb is at an angle here's
a corner flippy dippy her around here's a corner so we have corner corner gonna make a triangle
play Connect the Dots this is my bang or Fringe area triangle now depending on how you over direct
which we'll get into later how you pull the hair move it configurate it that's going to determine
what kind of bangs you're gonna have but just imagine just pulling this straight down cutting
straight across bangs all coming from here this is going to wrap up our basic parts of the head
form and our reference points if you are in school or just want to print some paper Fire Starter
whatever you need to do on my website right here I have a tab for you to be able to print or
screenshot or whatever Keynotes for you to follow along as well as visual aids and diagrams they're
free so use them and y'all it took me a long time to make these because I'm not really good at
the computer so please just print one out but yeah thanks for joining me here in the bathroom
for episode one until we meet again for episode two I hope you have an amazing week and I will see
you next time for something cool [Music] foreign