hey everybody this is teresa with the intentional classroom it's been a hot minute since i've done a video and i'm finally set up to do some videos i'm here in arizona for another couple weeks before i head on to utah just a reminder that if you like what we're doing here and i'm helping you pass your state board please share this with your classmates please share this with your students subscribe to this um because i'm here to help i'm here to offer you resources and yeah with that let's get going okay so today we talk about the types of relaxers i've done types of perms i've done a lot on hair color um it seems like the chemical videos are the ones that you guys are really asking for so i just kind of broke this one's pretty quick there's not a lot to talk about but hey sometimes that's better right a quick something okay so this one is really about the different types of relaxers that you might come across both on your exam as well as in your actual salon okay so understanding which relaxers do what is essential part of it is is because they're going to ask you questions about it on your test they are going to ask you you know which which of these is this which ones do we mix together that kind of they're going to want you to know that but also this is the service that you really need to master i don't care what kind of salon you work in um please don't segregate yourself into skin color hair color race things like that find a salon where you actually get to work on all different types of heads it's going to make you a better stylist okay so you need to understand which relaxers do what if you're going to offer relaxer service i will tell you in my salon i was the only person that was comfortable doing re-lectures on any type of hair i didn't care if you were black i didn't care if you were white i didn't care if you were dominican it did not matter to me whatever you were i was there and i understood enough about relaxers to be able to offer that service but i was the only person in my salon in one of my salons that uh that felt comfortable doing that so guess who made all that money me right so remember that you want to be able to do everything and so that means you need to understand your relaxers okay so the main type of relaxers that we tend to deal with when we're working with black hair are called metal relaxers okay you have three different types of metal relaxers you have a sodium relaxer sodium hydroxide you've probably heard of that one potassium hydroxide which is a no lye relaxer and lithium hydroxide which is also a null line relaxer okay the main ingredient in all metal relaxers is a hydroxide ion okay that's where the hydroxide part comes from sodium hydroxide potassium hydroxide lithium hydroxide these types of relaxers don't require any kind of mixing they come in different strengths but you literally just pile it out of the tub put it in your bowl and start applying it to the hair okay some require the use of a base some don't i can't i can i guess kind of tell you which is which but the reality is is you need to read the actual product label because it changes from manufacturer to manufacturer it's not it's not universal across the board so always read those instructions okay but do remember that if it's going to be a metal relaxer you don't need to mix it and the main ingredient is that hydroxide ion almost always a test question my friends hydroxide ion okay the ph of a metal relaxer is a 12.5 to 13.5 remember your ph scale only goes up to 14. so this is pretty darn high up there it's like a billion times stronger than your actual skin and hair skin and hair is a ph of 4.5 to 5.5 and the further we get away from that home base the more damaging and the more uh dramatic it's going to be to the hair the more catastrophic it's going to be to the hair so these guys these metal relaxers are strong they are harsh and you can very easily melt someone's hair off if you don't know what you're doing okay these are great for coarse very extremely curly hair okay these are meant for black hair typically maybe maybe some dominican or asian hair because sometimes that's a little more coarse too but if you were to put a metal hydroxide relaxer on my head my hair would melt off in no time at all why i have super fine hair i have super thin hair i'm blonde which means i don't even have the entire structure of hair in there so really this is meant for that strong hair that that really coarse hair those are your metal relaxers okay also living in the metal relaxer world is a guanodine hydroxide relaxer and these are usually touted as like sensitive scalp type relaxers main ingredient is still a hydroxide ion in this right but it's much more gentle you usually have to mix a part a and a part b together when you're using a guanodine hydroxide relaxer okay here's the thing that you need to remember this can be just as damaging as your other metal hydroxide relaxers okay don't kind of give them that mindset once it's sensitive so i'm not going to hurt anybody it's sensitive so it's not going to damage it can still do the same amount of damage it just kind of works a little bit slower okay so that's your guanidine hydroxide relaxers two ingredients to mix usually we choose this for sensitive scalp okay then you have some low ph options because people really don't love this idea of putting a ph of 13 on your hair because it is really damaging so if we don't need to do that we don't do it right you can use a low ph relaxer these the main ingredients are usually ammonium sulfite or ammonium bisulfite okay these are touted as mild relaxers they don't typically completely straighten the hair so and i used a lot of design essentials in my career and i think oh my god now i was going to tell you what the name of it was they had a like a time release relaxer that was really kind of this it moved very slowly it really wasn't going to get the hair super straight but i could kind of loosen up some of that curl maybe do more of a curl diffusion with a low ph relaxer remember our curl diffusion this will be on your state board is going to remove about 50 percent of the curl it's not going to straighten the hair and that's what a low ph relaxer can be used for this is really the relaxer that you would choose if somebody had color on their hair or some damage or their hair was a little finer um still really meant for black hair because they have you know black hair is a lot stronger than my hair it really is okay there's a lot more strength the cuticles a lot tighter so still this is probably still even too much for my head okay so just remember that when i say that this should be used for color i do not mean lightener and i feel like i can't do a relaxer video without saying this a hundred times okay you cannot mix lightner with relaxer why when you make when you use lightner in the hair it's like a tornado that goes in and starts knocking out keratin proteins okay we never repair those proteins when we do relaxer it's basically an earthquake that then crumbles some of your foundation so if your foundation already has holes in it and then you then it has an earthquake what's going to happen it's going to fall off so when i say a low of ph relaxer is meant for hair with color that's been color treated i really mean up to 20 volume you know maybe permanent color down my permanent color things like that okay so that's your low ph the next one is the ammonium likely relaxer now this is the exact same ingredient as an actual curly haired perm okay so the ph of an ammonium thyoglycere which is sometimes called atg relaxer is a 9.6 to 10. so that's about the same as an alkaline perm okay this is really meant for caucasian hair maybe mixed hair because sometimes mixed hair is still super soft okay it goes through the same reduction and oxidation process as a perm does so if you need a review on that i have lots of videos on permanent in the chemistry of worms okay but it basically is the same thing as perm solution it's just got a thicker viscosity so that we can smooth with it instead of you know actually um you know putting it on raws or something like that same process though like we apply the cream we straighten it we rinse it we neutralize it just like we were doing a perm okay and then the last one i just kind of want to mention just mention is the keratin-based straightening treatments because they don't really fall into any of these guys these are also called brazilian keratin treatments and there was a lot of scandal when these came out i'll be honest i'm still very aware of them even though it's been like 15 years since they came out but when they did come out and the companies were lying about it because what happens is it works by fixing the keratin into place and it doesn't necessarily go through and break bonds like you know a perm would do or an atg relaxer would do but what happens with this chemical process is it releases formaldehyde okay formaldehyde is cancer-causing formaldehyde has crazy odors so when keratin based treatments came out you had to have all this ventilation you had to wear a mask and i'm sorry anything that i have to wear a mask to perform i have a little problem with that because i don't want that in my body i don't want that on my hair so they came out as like a safer method of straightening out your hair and and honestly when they first came out there there was all sorts of scandal about it nowadays i'm sure they've corrected most of these things it is the go-to way for a lot of people so that is your keratin based straightening treatment it is a little different than the others because it kind of functions in its own way okay so that's all i have i told you there's not a lot with relaxers next week i'm hoping to release a video on soft curl perm because i feel like it's another thing that is gonna show up on your test and if you're lucky you have maybe performed one or two of these guys um but until then just remember to subscribe i'm the intentional classroom we're also cosmetology exam review we are getting dangerously close to releasing this product finally um and just kind of follow with everything we're doing we're here to help you guys we're here to help teachers that are training you and we're here to help students that are learning that's what i'm here for is to make sure you guys have all of the resources you need okay so until next week have an amazing amazing week go conquer something do something amazing go get ready for that state board don't forget to study um comment if you've got questions and i'll do my best to answer it and i hope to see you in a week or so alright have an awesome day guys