In this video, we're going to explore the 9 most popular advanced filament types that you can print with in your at-home 3D printer to understand their differences, their ideal applications and why you might want to check them out. Let's get after it. Previously, I put out a video on the top 5 most common 3D printer filaments that you need to know about and what types of applications are best suited for each type of filament. Now you guys loved that video and the only criticisms I received were that people were hoping I would go into the more advanced engineering grade filaments like nylon, polycarbonate, and carbon composites.
These types of filaments are becoming more and more popular due to the increased popularity of enclosed consumer grade 3D printers and hardened extruders and nozzles that are actually capable of printing these types of materials. With that said, at the outset of this video, I admittedly had pretty limited experiences with most of these different types of filaments. And so I set out on a journey, printing all different types of parts with different types of filaments, researching the differences, reading various technical data sheets, and consulting directly with the experts. Shout out to my friends over at Keckseld, a leader in creating some crazy composite materials like carbon fiber peak and more, for actually putting their lead engineers on a Zoom call with me and filling in my gaps in knowledge.
So without further ado, let's get started. further ado, here it is, the nine advanced filament types that you need to know about. To top this list off, let's start with plain old nylon.
Generally speaking, nylon is an incredibly durable material. It features higher heat resistance than most commodity plastics, such as ABS or PETG, and it really excels in toughness, aka durability, and strength. particularly interlayer adhesion.
Additionally, it offers more ductility than other plastics, meaning that it has a lot more give or flex like PETG, particularly in thin parts. Now, this is a large contributor to its toughness. Nylon also exhibits great chemical resistance, making it a great choice when your part will be exposed to oil or solvents. Additionally, Nylon is actually quite affordable when compared to other heat-resistant plastics out there such as Peak.
The downsides, however, are that it can be pretty tricky to print. First of all, nylons are highly hygroscopic, and they need to be printed directly from a filament dryer for best results. Second, this material is highly prone to warping, so an enclosure is an absolute must. By the way, In 3D printing, there are two different types of nylons that are commonly used, PA6 and PA12. In case you're wondering, the names indicate the number of carbon atoms in the repeating units, which in turn dictate different behavioral properties of the material.
PA12, like this for example, has a lower moisture absorption rate, making it more stable in various environmental conditions both during and after printing, as well as higher flexibility. But PA6, conversely, has higher strength and stiffness, but then it's also more easily affected by moisture, it has a higher melting point, which makes it trickier to print. This is why when it comes to plain old nylons without the carbon fiber stuff we're going to get into, PA12 is generally more popular for 3D printing. Okay, so that's a list of characteristics, but I know that that's probably confusing and not too helpful.
So throughout this video, as with my previous one, I'm going to give you a list of examples and applications that nylon is best suited for. In the case of just plain nylon, these include anything that needs to withstand high heat, applications where the part will be repeatedly abused, bumped, violated, vibrated, or impacted, and applications where you actually want that high ductility. So the list of specific examples includes plastic gears, automotive parts, flexible living hinges, workshop tools, gaskets, and things like that. If you've ever used nylon in the past, I would love to know in the comments below.
What did you actually print with it? To continue our exploration of the advanced 3D printing materials without carbon, let's open up this box of polycarbonate, often abbreviated as PC. Recognized for its exceptional clarity and its robustness, PC stands out as one of the toughest thermoplastics on the planet.
When compared to your standard commodity plastics like ABS or PLA, PC, like nylon, offers superior heat resistance, making it a prime choice for applications that demand that high thermal stability. Its strength is really commendable and its inner layer adhesion is once again, often dramatically superior, which makes really robust and cohesive parts when you're doing something like 3D printing. One of the most distinguishing features of PC though, is its impressive impact resistance. In terms of rigidity versus ductility, PC is somewhere between ABS and PLA on the more rigid side and nylon on the more ductile side. So while it's still pretty rigid and can therefore shatter, it's still able to absorb significant shocks without breaking.
This resilience combined with its very, very high transparency is why it's frequently used in things like bulletproof glass and eyewear lenses, though obviously not 3D printed ones. Additionally, while specialty filaments like Peak, might outperform PC in terms of certain extreme conditions, PC remains a much more budget-friendly option for many applications that require that high performance but not at the absolute peak. Get it? Peak?
However, 3D printing with PC is not for the faint of heart. Similar to nylons, PC is quite hygroscopic, which can significantly impact print quality. Although its moisture absorption is generally lower than that of nylons, it's still advisable to store PC filaments in a dry environment and consider using a filament dryer while you're printing them. Additionally, PC is notorious for its tendency to warp, especially in larger prints. Now, there are some PC blends out there like the one made by Prusament or Keckseld's PC-K7, which aim to combat this.
But as I'll say a few times throughout this video, a tiger doesn't change its stripes. And even these easier-to-print blends are At the end of the day, PC, and they'll behave like it. Therefore, using an enclosed printer and ensuring a heated bed is essential for optimal results, and even then, you might need to heat the chamber and or use bed adhesion products out there to reduce warping.
When considering which applications are best suited for PC, think of scenarios demanding strength, clarity, and heat resistance. So ideal use cases include projects with lighting elements, for example. light housings, fixtures, or cases for electronics with LEDs that you want to shine through. PC is also great for things like drone parts, containers that you want to be clear, such as bins or buckets, tanks for liquids. It's even suitable for prototypes for functional testing under strenuous conditions.
Its durability and clarity make it a favorite for many in the 3D printing community. So if you've had the opportunity to work with polycarbonate in your 3D printing endeavors, you should definitely check it out. I would love it if you shared your experience in the comments below. And I'd also love to know what creative applications that you've discovered for this versatile material.
Continuing our journey into the realm of specialized 3D printing materials, let's discuss PLACF, which is essentially polylactic acid, or PLA, reinforced with carbon fibers. At its core, plain PLA is, as you probably know, a biodegradable thermoplastic derived from renewable resources like cornstarch or sugarcane. It's a favorite among 3D printing enthusiasts due to its incredible strength and rigidity, combined with its extreme ease of printing and minimal warping. Believe it or not, PLA is actually so strong that fellow YouTuber Clou42 actually discovered that it is superior to PACF, which I don't think anybody expected in some instances. However, when infused with carbon fibers like these various different colored versions are, PLA undergoes a transformation that enhances some of its mechanical properties while simultaneously reducing others.
First, the addition of carbon fibers actually increases the stiffness and strength of PLA, kind of. You see, I need to go on a small tangent here because this is our first carbon fiber filament and increased strength is something that is touted on all of these different carbon fiber reinforced filaments, but it's a little bit misleading. Yes, depending on the quality of the filament and the printing conditions, you may achieve increased strength in the axial direction. And some PLA-CF formulations will use surface-treated carbon fiber, and as a result, interlayer adhesion isn't impacted a lot. That's, for example, Keckseld's own PLA-K6CF.
But frankly speaking, because the carbon fibers are basically a contaminant in the material, you will also generally experience decreased strength in between layers. This was corroborated not only by the experts at Keckseld, but also Stefan from CNC Kitchen, who has done more testing of more filament strength than anyone in this community. So when companies advertise the strength of carbon fiber filaments, they aren't generally explaining this nuanced point.
To wit, when I spoke with Kecksell's engineers, they really wanted me to emphasize to you guys that because PLA is already so incredibly strong and rigid, they consider PLACF like these to be kind of a gimmick, whose primary benefit is actually more aesthetic than anything. This is not only because of the beautiful matte textured finishes that the carbon adds, but also because as with all the carbon composites on this list, adding carbon fibers actually improves its dimensional stability by reducing warping and making parts come out much cleaner. Though again, PLA doesn't really suffer from printability or warping.
So I mean, sure, adding carbon fibers can make this material stronger and more rigid in some specific senses. But it's still PLA. It's not an engineering-grade material, and so it will still retain the downsides of PLA, including absolutely zero tolerance for heat. What's more, carbon fibers can actually take some of the bad characteristics of PLA, like brittleness, and make them worse. And while PLA-CF and really all of the CF composites on this list print even better than their pure counterparts, they're also incredibly abrasive.
This means that whenever you print with any carbon composite filament, you will need to ensure that you print with a hardened steel or ruby or diamond nozzle ideally. You'll also need to ensure that you have all metal gears and you're going to experience accelerated wear on any Bowden tubes or anything in the path of the filament. In terms of applications, PLACF is ideal for components that need a balance of strength and lightweight construction.
Hold it, point the camera at me. Point the camera at me, let's try breaking it. It's hard for you? I literally can't break it.
Why? It's too strong. Why? I can't break it. Think of drone frames, RC car components, and even lightweight tooling.
I even like to use it for mounting brackets, so long as they don't need to flex or take any impact. It's also great for saving money on prototypes because it will exhibit similar dimensional behavior to PACF, but it costs considerably less. For those of you who have ventured into printing all these different PLACF colors, how'd you find the experience? And do you share in the conclusion that this material is a little bit of a gimmick?
Please share your experience below. I'd love to Continuing our exploration into the carbon-fortified filaments, let's next turn to PETG-CF. At first, PETG-CF had me kind of scratching my head. I mean, practically the only redeeming quality that I find about PETG is that it is ductile and flexes.
So wouldn't adding carbon fibers take away that one redeeming quality? But as it turns out, these fibers elevate the inherent qualities of PETG. adding increased stiffness, strength, and even additional heat resistance to the material. Whereas PETG is quite ductile, as we said, with a certain amount of flex and give, PETG-CF is considerably more rigid.
The result is a filament that can take a considerable amount of abuse, even more than standard PETG in some cases. Like PETG, this filament exhibits superior resistance to both ultraviolet light and chemicals. But PETG-CF is generally more affordable and much easier to print than other filaments with similar performance. And if all that weren't enough, parts made of PETG-CF enjoy improved printability and dimensional accuracy. Moreover, the carbon fibers grant the printed objects a unique matte and textured finish, which normally cannot be achieved with PETG.
I don't know about you, but I generally prefer to print just about everything in matte. Now really, there are only three major downsides or trade-offs to PETG-CF. First, it requires abrasion-resistant hardware such as nozzles. Second, like all PETG, it's hydroscopic, though nowhere near as much as, say, a nylon. Despite all its impressive performance, I do want to note that it's still nowhere near as heat-resistant as nylon, PC, or even ABS.
Though, again, PET-CF just might be. So where does that leave us in terms of applications for PETGCF? Well, it really, really stands out in scenarios that demand a balance between durability, cost, and lightweight design.
It's an excellent choice for parts that undergo moderate stress like custom enclosures, protective gear, or even certain robotics components that are going to take a beating. This material's unique finish also lends a touch of sophistication to prototypes or even end-use parts. Like PLACF, it could also be great for saving money on prototypes that will eventually be printed in a more expensive carbon composite material.
But above all else, PETGCF shines at being easy to print without a filament dryer or a heated enclosure. And so really the best applications are going to be the same as I'm going to mention in the PACF or ABS-CF sections, but if in your situation you don't have the hardware or the budget to do it in those respective materials. Actually, side note, while I was taking out all of these filaments to record this video, I discovered that I also have some PET-CF which does not have the glycol addition and actually has higher heat resistance than the PET GCF, lower susceptibility to water absorption, and really actually competes pretty evenly with PAHTCF. I'm not going to talk too too much about PETCF versus PETGCF, but just know that this material is a little bit better at all the things that PETGCF does with a lot fewer of the downsides.
So worth checking these out. and I will link to a comparison of them in the description. Now, for those of you who have dabbled in either PETG-CF or PET-CF, I would love to know what your thoughts were.
Are you converted into becoming a believer, or do you still think that PETG-CF is just a second-rate option for people who can't print or afford PACF? I'd really love to hear your thoughts below. As I just mentioned, And one of the great things about PETG-CF is that you can print it on an affordable open printer.
For example, I printed these PETG-CF parts on the Sovol SV07+, which just happens to be the sponsor of today's video. Unlike a lot of budget-friendly 3D printers in their price range, the Sovol SV07 has a full metal heat break, a powerful volcano hotend, a planetary extruder, and other features which make it capable of printing up to 300 degrees Celsius. That means that if you enclose it, for example by putting it in a cabinet, or just creating a lack enclosure like many people do, and then pick up some abrasion-resistant nozzles, you can actually print nearly all of the materials on this list. You heard that right, a $349 printer that with a few small upgrades is capable of printing carbon fiber nylon.
Plus, because Sobel's SV07 and SV07 Plus run full, open-source versions of Clipper, they print fast and they don't hold you back from tweaking, modifying, upgrading, and customizing the machine. So in addition to visiting the link in the description and using my coupon code to save $10 to $20 at checkout, do make sure to check out the recent video I did with my top 10 clipper upgrades and plugins. Wait a second, did I just plug one of my own videos in an ad spot?
Oh yes, I did. But Sovil also sponsored that, so it's totally fine. Let's just get back to the video, shall we? Up next, let's talk about probably the most popular and talked about carbon composite out there for 3D printing right now.
Carbon fiber nylon, such as PACF or PAHTCF like this one. These come in different flavors ranging from PA6 based versions to PA12 versions, high heat versions, and standard ones. But like I mentioned in our discussions of PA6 versus PA12, These all have slightly different characteristics, often depending on the brand and application purchase.
But generally, they share the same overarching differences when carbon fibers are added to regular nylon. You'll recall from that earlier discussion that we talked about nylon's high ductility and flexibility, and that it is ideal for situations where that ductility rather than rigidity are desired. But adding carbon fibers to it has a similar purpose as adding them to PETG.
It allows you to enjoy the durability and heat resistance of a nylon without the ductility. In other words, if what you want is rigidity and high heat resistance, that's where PACF or even PAHTCF make a lot of sense. Here again, there's a give and take.
Yes, adding carbon fibers does gain rigidity, but you lose some of that impact resistance and therefore durability. This is because carbon fiber parts can take more force before they deform, but once they do start to deform, they'll fail catastrophically instead of simply deforming. This means that for any part where you wouldn't want a catastrophic failure, such as something holding weight up high, it would be better to just use pure nylon.
Conversely, if you want something to be affixed somewhere in a very, very rigid way without a millimeter of give, then you need CF Nylon. Now I've also mentioned a few times how adding carbon fibers improves both printability and heat resistance. And this is true of all the materials on this list compared to their plain counterparts.
But in the case of nylon, this is especially pronounced. As I mentioned before, nylon, like polycarbonate, can be a serious pain in the butt to print. And adding carbon fibers actually makes it significantly easier by reducing the amount of carbon fiber that you reducing warping and improving dimensional accuracy.
In fact, if you're unable to print nylon even on your enclosed printer, you might just find that you can print PACF. Even more interestingly, the addition of carbon fiber to nylon, like I said before, can add temperature resistance. But in the case of nylon, it can add 10 to 20 degrees Celsius to its heat resistance, making it truly the best consumer-grade alternative to something like Peak.
As for specific use cases, I've used it for caster wheel mounts that need to be rigid yet durable, and it's generally really good in applications around your workshop where you need rigidity under heat. This may include mounting brackets for inside an enclosure, or tools that need to remain rigid even when used around a heat gun, or an open flame, or a soldering iron. Though, as Stefan from CNC Kitchen found out, it is definitely not good for printing Voron parts.
So we've made it through some of the more popular carbon fiber filaments, let's now talk about one that doesn't get nearly as much attention. And that's ABS-CF. Here, once again, a tiger doesn't change its stripes.
This is still ABS with all the pros and cons of ABS. But here, once again, adding carbon actually makes it more printable. Which, if you've ever printed ABS, is a welcome addition.
Now we've already talked a lot about the differences between carbon fiber reinforced filaments and their plain counterpart. cards, and you can basically sum it up as improving rigidity, axial strength, and printability at the expense of affordability and layer adhesion. So let's jump straight into why you might choose, say, ABS-CF over any of the other carbon composites that I've already talked about.
First of all, right out of the gate, ABS being a commodity plastic is going to be significantly cheaper than something like nylon, meaning that its carbon composite version will be cheaper too. Second, though PACF is fairly easy to print, ABS-CF is going to be even easier in most cases. It is far less hygroscopic than PETG-CF or PACF, and it warps much less than the latter.
Though it does still require an enclosure, especially because of the fumes, unlike something like PETG-CF. What's more, ABS as a base plastic is just incredibly durable and an all-around great polymer. which explains why it is the obvious choice for most consumer goods, from toys to tools to electronics, really anything outside of disposable packaging.
Similarly, I'd say that ABS-CF is a really great all-around compromise. It doesn't excel at any one thing, but it nicely blends affordability, printability, durability, strength, moderate heat resistance, and rigidity. In other words, if you have an enclosed printer but you don't want to deal with PACF for its price, ABS-CF is a great option. Also, like PACF or PET or PETGCF, it is great for things like automotive parts under moderate heat, tools, indoor brackets that need to be incredibly rigid, such as for camera equipment, robotic arms, really anything that needs a lot of rigidity. Just note that unlike PETGCF, ABS-CF does not do well when exposed to ultraviolet light or chemicals.
Once again, If you've used ABS-CF in the past, I would love to know in the comments below what exactly you used it for and whether or not you agree with my assessments. Alright, we're almost done, but before we go, I do want to mention just one last advanced filament, and that is ABS-GF or glass fiber. As the name suggests, this filament swaps carbon fibers out for glass fibers, which are somewhat more economical and have slightly different mechanical properties. Whereas adding carbon can improve axial strength and rigidity, glass fibers can instead add tensile strength. Whereas carbon fibers improve heat and even electrical conductivity, aiding in things like heat dissipation, glass fibers do not, meaning that they may even be preferable in environments involving electronics or electricity.
There are a lot of other nuanced differences in areas like abrasion, but ultimately the main takeaway here is going to be price. If you can justify it or if it's for the final product, ABS-CF will generally be better. But ABS-GF is still great for adding a bit of tensile strength over standard ABS without breaking the bank or just prototyping parts that will later be reprinted in ABS carbon fiber. Some examples of parts include electronics housings, tool cases, tools, or handles, which take advantage of its enhanced tensile strength.
Now I'd once again be curious to know in the comments if any of you have ever even tried ABS-GF and so what did you use it for? So there you have it, the nine top advanced and high performance filaments that you can print with a consumer 3D printer, as well as how to best take advantage of their individual strengths. Pun very much intended.
I also want to give a huge thanks not only to Sobel for sponsoring this video, but also to the folks over at Keckcell for taking the time to fact check me. and educate me on some of the lesser known and finer points of these filaments. If you enjoyed this video, please do take a moment to like and subscribe because it really helps ensure that other people will see it and it's a good signal to me that you would like for me to make more content just like it. Oh, and thanks to my Patreon supporters and YouTube members for your support.
That's all for this week, but I'll see all of you on the next layer.