Overview
This lecture covers the biology of skin oil (sebum), its role in acne development, factors affecting oil production, and effective approaches to manage oily and acne-prone skin.
What is Skin Oil (Sebum)?
- Sebum is the natural oil produced by the skin's sebaceous glands.
- Sebum consists of fatty acids, triglycerides, squalene, wax esters, and metabolic breakdown products.
- Sebum provides waterproofing, transports nutrients, and helps maintain skin barrier function.
Sebum and Acne Development
- Acne develops from four main pillars: bacterial overgrowth, clogged pores, excess oil, and inflammation.
- Bacteria (specifically Cutibacterium acnes) feed on sebum, resulting in inflammation and breakouts.
- Not everyone with oily skin gets acne; genetic and environmental factors play a role.
Factors Influencing Oil Production
- Oil production is affected by environment, diet (especially high-glycemic foods and dairy), genetics, and hormones.
- Hormonal changes during puberty often lead to increased oil and acne in teenagers.
- Transepidermal water loss (loss of water through the skin barrier) can lead to compensatory overproduction of oil.
Managing Oily and Acne-Prone Skin
- Over-drying the skin can trigger more oil production as skin tries to compensate.
- Moisturizers are important, even for oily skin, to restore moisture and prevent overproduction of oil.
- Many acne treatments (benzoyl peroxide, retinoids, Accutane) can dry out the skin and should be balanced with moisturizers.
- Retinoids (derivatives of vitamin A like retinoic acid, retinol, adapalene) reduce oil production and have anti-acne effects.
- Isotretinoin (Accutane) can drastically decrease oil production but has potential side effects and requires medical supervision.
Diet and Acne
- High-glycemic foods (sugary/processed foods) and dairy can increase IGF-1, which may boost oil production and trigger acne in sensitive individuals.
- IGF-1 is a protein involved in growth and metabolism; increased levels can influence hormones and skin oil.
Genetics and Oily Skin
- Genetics largely determine baseline oil production and acne risk.
- Oily skin may have benefits like delayed aging due to increased skin elasticity.
Key Terms & Definitions
- Sebum — natural oil produced by the sebaceous glands in the skin.
- Sebaceous gland — gland in the skin that produces sebum.
- Transepidermal water loss — loss of water through the skin, often due to a damaged barrier.
- Retinoids — vitamin A derivatives that help regulate skin cell turnover and oil production.
- IGF-1 (Insulin-like Growth Factor 1) — a protein that can increase oil production and contribute to acne.
- High-glycemic foods — foods that rapidly raise blood sugar levels, such as sweets and processed grains.
Action Items / Next Steps
- Consider a gentle moisturizer if using drying acne treatments.
- Monitor diet for high-glycemic foods and dairy if experiencing frequent breakouts.
- Consult a healthcare provider for persistent acne or before starting retinoid/Accutane therapy.
- Stay tuned for upcoming lessons on matching skincare ingredients and identifying your skin type.