Transcript for:
Essential Makeup Techniques for Hooded Eyes

today I'm going to share with you 13 tips for makeup for hooded eyes these are the tips and tricks I use on my clients and have done for the last 20 years I'm aware I'm not doing this on hooded eyes I'm doing this on myself but I promise you these tips and tricks work really well I use them on my right eye which is ever so slightly smaller than my left so the first tip is one of the most important is to always look directly straight into a mirror when you're applying makeup we want to be able to see any colors applied above the crease of our eye which is here when we look down into a mirror it stretches the skin we apply the makeup and then when we look up it all disappears again so looking straight ahead means we will be able to see where that makeup is sitting next up we want to make the most of the arch of the eyebrow therefore we want to apply a highlight here this will help to give a lifted look to this area when I refer to a highlight I'm talking about a matte highlight in terms of highlighting and contouring not highlighting as in a frosted finish you can apply a light reflecting eyeshadow here however if you do have slightly crepey skin it will enhance that therefore I'm going in with a concealer to do this you can use a lighter color Foundation but concealer has higher pigment so it will stand out a little bit better than Foundation some people often get a little bit of redness through the brow so having a concealer here will also help to neutralize that area I will listen link all the products I've used in the description bar today I'm using the Too Faced Born This Way multi-use sculpting concealer you only need a tiny amount and one jar will last you forever so not only is this making the most of the arch of your eyebrow and giving a slightly more lifted finish as you can see it also helps to carve out the shape of your brow making it look more defined that isn't the intention but it does end up helping with that so I've patted that concealer in using a synthetic bristle brush and it now looks like our skin but a slightly lighter version next we want to apply some concealer on the outer corner of our eye this area tends to sink as we age so not only is it good for a lifted look when you have hooded eyes but also if you're slightly more mature this will help to bring some fullness back to this area so you want to follow along as if your lash line on your lower lid was to continue up towards the tail of your eyebrow or more out towards your temple let's say and then this will just help to brighten this area giving an illusion of a lifted look I know this has nothing to do with the actual hood of the eye yet but because hooded eyes tend to make your eyes look slightly more tired lifting the look of the brow lifting the edges of the eye or laid the appearance of a well-rested more youthful looking eye so apply your concealer Pat it in with your brush and don't be afraid to also Pat it in with your fingers we want it to still be a highlight but we want it to look a lot softer and more natural so having it go up in a highlight of that angle as you can see just gives a bit more of a lifted finish to the eyes moving on to the lid itself this area is the the space it tends to get lost when you have hooded eyes I'm applying the concealer directly on the center of the lid we want to make this area look as large as possible so applying a highlight area to the center will maximize the appearance of this space if your eyes are hooded and they completely close over this area of your lid as in you have excess skin that folds over make sure that when you are looking into a mirror you cover the hood of your eye as well so as long as you're looking straight ahead whatever skin you can see that is directly in the center that needs to be light so you might need to look down into a mirror first so that it stretches the skin and you cover your lid and then when you look up if the fold comes over the top also cover that directly into the center I'm sticking with a concealer just to show you guys for Maximum Impact but you can go straight in with an eyeshadow you can go in with a cream eyeshadow stick you can use an eyeshadow primer here I tend to stick with matte Shades just because it works really well when working with hooded eyes that being said there are no rules when it comes to makeup it's really down to personal preference and you can most certainly use a shimmery shade on the center of the lid to maximize that lightness so now we've got a base down and we've made a lighter lid in the center I'm going to go in with a powder eyeshadow in a lighter shade just for reference today I'm using a bone color a nice light peachy tone would work a pal pink anything that's lighter than your skin tone will work really well here you can stick with nudes but just make sure it's light enough to maximize this space notice how I'm keeping the majority of this on the center of the lid and then what I'll use what's left on the bristles to Pat it either side if at this stage you want to use a shimmery tone I would apply it to the inner corner of the eye and the very center of your lid looking straight into a mirror I'm applying a matte bronzer shade above the lid space so into the area where the eye creases and slightly higher up towards that brow bone we do not want to take this on the lid space or the hood of the eye this is only going to go in the crease and upwards we do not want to lose any of that space that we've created on what's known as our mobile lid the part that moves if you're going for a very natural contoured look keep the bronzer close to your skin tone you can also use a brown eyeshadow just don't go super dark in this area we only want to apply a light amount to create a slight contrast between our lid space which we're trying to make the most of and our brow bone here you can see we've not lost any lid space instead it looks much bigger than when we started hooded eyes tend to look a lot smaller therefore we want to frame the lower eyelash line in order to make the actual ball of your eye look slightly larger and in turn it makes the whole eyes look bigger so I'm taking a brown eye pencil and I'm lining from the outer Corner going all the way along to about halfway I'm using a smudger brush to soften this notice how I've not used a super dark eyeliner it's a bit more of a softer warmer Brown It's just ever so slightly lighter then we want to extend this on the outer corner from our lower eyelash line not the top this is ideal if you have a heavy crease on the outer Corner if you don't you can also extend it on the top here just on the very outer V keeping it super low and small if you do have a natural crease here look straight into a mirror when you apply it it is still possible to do it with a crease I do have a tutorial on eyeliner hooded eyes which I will link on screen for you I'm using my Sigma E21 smudger brush to very softly blend this out we want it to be super duper soft rather than a harsh liquid liner if you are new to try an eyeliner if you have hooded eyes you can use a powder eyeshadow therefore if you do make a mistake it's easy to remove if you want longevity choose a eyeliner pencil that is waterproof you want to keep your eyeliner perpendicular to the highest point of your lid so as you can see from the center of my eyelid when I go directly outwards with my spatula you can see my eyeliner isn't any higher than this again this helps us to prevent losing space on our top lid and it also helps to elongate the eye which is a really good tip when you have hooded eyes again to maximize that space if your eyes are quite small use a cream pencil along your waterline this will make the ball of your eye appear larger you can use a cream you can use a very pale pink you can use a flesh tone it's whatever works for you I'm using a flesh tone I would probably avoid using white as this can be a little bit too Stark so this look is ideal for daytime but I will show you how to take it to night time when you have hooded eyes you want to maximize your eyelashes as best as possible often forces aren't an option so maximizing your natural lashes is going to be beneficial if you have very small Lids you can use an eyelash curler like this which really helps to get into the inner Corners I have a tutorial on this method which I'll link on screen for you apply an eyeliner along your top lid is not always beneficial it will close that space But we can utilize our upper water line to create the look of a fuller lash line and as if you are wearing eyeliner but without losing the space on our top lid you can either look up into a mirror to do this or down into a mirror whatever is more comfortable for you but you're going to be painting underneath your lash line use something that dries down use something that's waterproof and you can see when I look directly into the mirror the left eye as you can see looks like we're wearing eyeliner but it's super super subtle and we've not lost any of that lid space whereas if you look at the right eye you can see the pink tone underneath the eye Which is less flattering so by going in and coating this with an eyeliner it not only disguises the pink tone that we have naturally it makes it look as if we'll wear an eyeliner it's not on top so again we're not losing that lid space but it also makes your eyelash line look fuller at the root just make sure that while it's dry and you don't blink as you don't want this to print down on your lower water line so as you can see by getting ready of the pinky tone it now looks much darker at the root as I mentioned earlier making the most of your natural eyelashes is a must so try an eyelash primer this one is by Mac it is white to begin with but will dry clear and it will make the most of your natural lashes by making them thicker but also slightly longer here I'm only applying one coat because I don't want anything too dramatic as it starts to dry I'm going to go in with my black mascara you can also use Brown and a tip here is to look down into a mirror instead of straight ahead because we don't want to get our mascara on our lid we know that with hooded eyes if you have that fold apply mascara can get quite messy so you want to stretch the skin as much as possible and looking down into a mirror and raising your brows will stretch that skin so you can coat your lashes without coating your top lid at the same time this is the result of one coat of the primer and one coat of the mascara and we've really maximized our natural lashes to start taking this from day to night the first thing that we can do is darken the liner that we've got on the outer corner of our eye I'm going in with a slightly darker brown eyeshadow this time you can go in with a black if you're going for a really nice dark smokiness to the outer corner of the eye remember we're not going to be taking any anything on the actual mobile lid because we don't want to lose that space so whenever I'm doing hooded eye makeup for an evening out I really tend to concentrate on the outer edge of the eye and maximize this area so that we don't lose space on our top lid now remember this is for beginners so I'm keeping it super easy to recreate so this is how it looks with a lick of mascara on our top lid we've darkened our upper waterline and we've just deepened the shade on the outer corner and the lower eyelash line now we're going to go in with a brown eyeliner again you can use black this is going to enable us to create more of a smoky sultry finish but without overwhelming the eyes you don't want to take this all the way across your waterline otherwise you really will make your eyes appear smaller if you do want it to be much more Smoky and sultry feel free to take it all the way along keeping everything to the outer half here you can see we've got a bit more of a lifted finish to the eye it elongates the shape of them and we've not lost any lid space on top and hopefully depending on how hooded your eyes are you've not really had to tackle too much with the hood of your eye it's really all about working that outer third to maximize the shape of your eye I'll look straight ahead and really frown to crumple my eyes just so you can see it's not really affecting the shape that we've created on the outer corner you can still see what we've applied when we look straight ahead in the mirror for me this next tip is really important when you have hooded eyes because again we want to maximize our natural eyelash line by gaining as much lift as possible so once your mascara is dried on the outer third of your lash line give it a little pinch with a short eyelash curler and you will see how much this lifts your outer edge my mother-in-law has quite hooded eyes and when she applies mascara her eyelashes are kind of what keeps the fold of her eye upwards therefore if you get more lift to your eyelashes your eyes themselves look so much more awake see how this has made my eye shape look much more almond and this is just with our actual eyelashes we're not going to clamp them all the way along I would say don't go any further than the halfway mark that way we still get that lifted appearance and we can really make the most of creating that almond shape which gives that lifted finish on the outer edges I will show you now how to apply a couple of Whispers just on the outer third of your lash line if you're going on a night out and again you want to maximize your eye shape but without losing any lid space these are dovetail lashes you can get them from sweet lashes and you want to apply two or three of the longest ones on the outer third of your lash line apply a tiny amount of glue and just drop them onto your natural lashes you can manipulate them once they're in place you'll see when you look straight into mirror it really does help to give a lifted finish to the outer edge I know I keep mentioning it but that's all what this is about then go in with a slightly shorter one so it tapers down to meet your natural lashes as it gets towards the center of your eye so you really only want around four or five lashes maximum to really accentuate the outer third of your eyes and that's all my tips and tricks today for beginners hooded eye makeup I really hope you've found this video useful and you've got some tips and tricks to take away and try for yourself if you have any questions please leave them in the comment section I'll do my best to come back to you don't forget I will try and list and Link all the products I've used in the description bar so you guys can shop directly from the video please subscribe if you're new to my channel give the tutorial a thumbs up if you enjoyed it come follow me outside of YouTube over on Instagram at show me makeup and I'll see you in a couple of days with another video bye guys