do you have a bike with a far driver controller and are trying to figure out how to set it up well this entire video will go over all the parameters and give you some guidelines on how to get going this is far driver ND 72360 um there are a couple variants on this some of them have a thicker heat sink um and some of them are green the green ones don't have a Bluetooth built into them you will need to use a dongle so if you're trying to connect and you can't you need the dongle so try to look for the ones with the black plastic cas there are other ones that are rated to higher current levels and things like that but they will all use the same kind of guidelines that we're going to talk about today all of these far drivers come with a giant plug that has a ton of different wires coming from it um that then send out to a bunch of other plugs spark makes a refined version of this that reduces the number of plugs and adds a bunch of really nice waterproof connectors to them for easy wiring but chances are you don't have one of those but we're going to figure out how to go forward the main plug is going to have your hall sensors and your temperature wire and then you're going to have a bunch of other things uh like your throttle and your ignition and all sorts of different things you can look at the manuals online and they will show you what all those different plugs are but for the purpose of today's video we're going to assume that you have the complimenting plugs so your throttle your ignition and everything else and you are in the process of trying to set up the programming for the bike if this is a DIY bike you need to First first make sure that your orange wire which is the ignition wire is connected to the positive end of your battery so that would also be the red terminal on the far driver you can add an ignition switch in there just make sure it's going to be rated to high enough current levels um but the far driver will not turn on unless that orange wire is receiving power so if it's receiving power and you've connected for the first time the far driver is going to start making a beeping sound and that's actually a good sign um it's usually just going to say that hey it's ready to do an auto learn or possibly the uh motor temperature sensor is wrong um and a few other things like that but it's going to make a beeping sound when you turn it on for the first time and that's totally okay um but now it's time to download the far driver app so go to the Apple App Store or the Android App Store and download the far driver app there is not a compatible app for the Google Play Store so keep that in mind if you're trying to work with far drive you need Android or you need Apple so I have my iPad with me this will work on your phone too and I'm just going to look up far driver and I'm going to download the app and usually when you open up this app for the first time it's going to allow you to log in so if it doesn't um if I go to the com page I can go to log and then I can do verify code quick register you're going to put your um your email and don't do the phone number um and then hit the get verify code and it's going to say please open your email and enter the verify code based on your information so then you're going to receive an email you can just see that I got that at the top sometimes that code can take like two minutes to come through so just keep on checking and also check your uh your spam you're then going to input the verify code and you're going to hit registering I know it's the wrong tense it should be register but input the verify code hit that little slot and then hit registering and it should allow you to register your email so one thing that's a little bit frustrating with the far driver is that it only allows you to have um three different bikes connected at any given time so some people are going to have you know four five bikes and you will have to remove and add them as you update your bikes but hopefully you're not updating them every time you ride so it's not that much of a hassle but let's add a bike now that we have logged in if you go to the com page you're going to see your controller listed if the blueooth module is working properly um if you don't see anything you can hit the scan button make sure your Bluetooth is on and it should pop up so I have my controller selected now but you're seeing nothing is changing so what you have to do is hit the connected weight bound button and now you can see it's asking me to log in again which you're saying to yourself I just logged in but that's okay close the app down reopen it back up okay so to continue on I've actually pulled over one of our older prototype bikes from about a year and a half ago um and when I scan you can see that the controller is popping up so now now I'm going to hit the uh controller that I want to connect to I'm going to hit connect and well that didn't do everything I needed to do right um it's still showing connected weight bound so I need to hit connected weight bound and then it's going to ask me bound and I'm going to hit yes I went to bound and then it's going to say okay you bound it's a weird terminology I don't know why they started calling it that but that's what it is um but now let's just take a quick look before we continue on um towards the middle of the page you're going to see 1 2 three those are three different controllers that I have connected to my account um if you already have three controllers in your account you're going to need to click one of those just like that and you're going to have to hit Unbound in the bottom Unbound because far driver only allows you to have three different controllers in your account at any given time so if you've got 10 different bikes you're going to have to juggle these different controllers in your account it's it's just a weird Quirk that they have okay so by now you've probably been listening to your bike beeping at you and it's wondering what's going on well let's do an auto learn it's the most important thing you're going to do on your bike to get it going um you can't rely on it for everything but it's going to give you a very good starting spot so let's do the auto learn and what you're going to do is go to the bottom page called graph hit graph and then you're going to see autolearn um underneath system okay chances are I won't say system okay for you right now but it's going to and hit autolearn and then it's going to say enter self-learning status and you're going to hit enter now let's go over to the bike all right so I'm at my bike and I have my hand on the throttle the motor is fully suspended you need to have the wheel completely off the ground so you can put it on some jack stands or if you have spools like the javelin does um you can pop your bike up but this wheel needs to be able to freely spin okay so now I'm going to hit enter self- learning status and the controller is beeping and what you're going to do is hold the throttle down and when you hold it down the motor is going to speed up it's going to stop it's going to reverse directions and come completely to a stop again you cannot let go of the throttle at any time the bike needs to be a complete stop before you let go all right so let's do it it's not going to be very fast either it may seem kind of fast right now you can hear reversing right but this is not a speed test this is just aecting all sorts of different information about your [Applause] motor keep on holding do not let go of that throttle [Applause] you may see your screen say throttle error at the bottom do not worry about that that's just part of the programming I know it's weird keep on holding your throttle and now I'm at a complete stop I can let go of my throttle and then I can hit exit learn and now you can see my system is okay and so if I hit the throttle we're getting power but there's a chance a very good chance that your motor is going in the reverse Direction and so if that is happening keep note of it and what we're going to do is go to the bottom left corner to the parameters it it says Paris and you're going to see motor Direction one you're going to flip that lever and now it's going to go the opposite direction so don't freak out if your motor's going the opposite way so congratulations you didn't an auto learn um we've had plenty of bikes that have been on the road for a th000 miles and then out of the blue they start making the beeping sound and uh we just have to tell customers hey just run an auto learn on it and the controller will pick up uh any errors and clear them out um this is kind of one of the weird quirks of far driver there's a lot of customization that goes on in these controllers and sometimes weird things happen so um you know it's kind of like taking the cartridge out and blowing the dust out of it sometimes you just got to do an autolearn and uh sometimes that just gets a far driver right back to where it needs to be but let's say you just did the auto learn and you're getting another beeping sound and it's showing that the motor temperature is 1,000° so what you're going to need to do is you're going to go to your parameters and you're going to open the pro up and in the top right corner you're going to see temperature sensor and all you're going to have to do it's going to be kind of a pain just go one by one on these and what you're going to want to do is is select one so that the motor temperature and the controller temperature are the same so most of the time it's going to be around 23° C if you're just at ambient temperature or you're inside a garage or something but that is a Telltale sign select a temperature sensor that matches the motor temperature and the controller temperature if they are very different from one another you've selected the wrong sensor and if all else fails let's just say you have a bad temperature sensor what whatever move on select the temperature sensor that is none um and actually sometimes the motors just don't have a temperature sensor so you just select none and you hit save and you're good to go all right let's get into some of the fun stuff which is setting up your parameters so first off if you have a bike from spark Cycle Works it's a javelin or a brute these are going to be some of the standard settings you're going to see let's just go through them very quickly um the main ones that you need to make are the rated speed is 800 50 RPMs so that's going to be right at about 60 MPH the rated power is 4,000 watts the max phase current is 270 amps line current is 90 amps throttle response is on Sport and throttle acceleration step is 220 um and then we usually set the the throttle low at about 1.1 you can set that to one actually sometimes and throttle high is about 3.9 so these are the standards that we usually set oh one more and the max line current is at 90 so these are usually what we send the bike out at it's what we have tested at and find the most reliable tuning for this bike but let's say you don't have a spark bike well let's go through all of these different settings and explain what they are okay I'm going to work my way from the top down uh angle detect is 0 to 120° Hall that is going to be preset by running that autolearn sequence so make sure you follow that autolearn don't change that one the temperature sensor um is something that you can look at your goal is to make the temperature of the motor and the temperature of the controller identical uh when they are at a rest in like your garage or something like that so if you don't have a temperature sensor set it to none but if your bike is saying temperature overheat and all these other things open up the temperature sensors and go one by one and click on one and then go over to the graph page and check to see if your motor temperature and your controller temperature are the same uh you know that you've set them correctly okay moving down to the phase offset again the phase offset is usually set by the autolearn and it tends to be pretty good but if you're feeling a bit of a crunchy sound on your acceleration um so you hit that throttle and it kind of gives a little bit of a crunchy sound it just doesn't sound perfect increase your phase offset by about five and see if that does anything if it doesn't do anything take the number that it was originally at and subtract by five and see if that does anything if you feel an improvement in either direction you can keep on adding small amounts of phase offset until you feel it is perfectly set up it's not always going to be perfect and you can always run an auto learn again to see if you can kind of hone it in but generally we increase or decrease by about five and then we increase our decrease by about two and kind of go from there till we've kind of honed it in the pole pairs are set by the motor manufacturer so if you bought a Qs motor or something else like that go to the uh the manufacturer's page or the sellers page or something like that and um select the correct pole pairs on a lot of Qs Motors it's going to be 16 um but sometimes it's eight and you kind of have to figure it out from there that's kind of one of those things that you will need to look up but again that autolearn is pretty good at detecting pole pairs but every once want it does weird things motor direction is something we already spoke about uh you know one is One Direction changing over to zero will'll change it to the other direction your rated speed is uh in RPMs it's not miles per hour or kilometers per hour and RPMs are you know the only way this program knows how fast something is going and so really what you're doing is you're taking the circumference of your wheel and you can do a whole bunch of math out to figure out how many RPMs equals how many miles hour but I would recommend not doing that and instead going to your manufacturer's page so go to Qs Motors page and it will tell you what the rated speed is um so for the motors that we use Qs recommends no more than 850 RPMs for the longevity of that bike you're going to see um some people putting up to 900 it will work however the temperatures are going to accelerate very quickly you really have to be an experienced rider um you don't want to overheat these motors it can melt wires and it's just a bad bad thing so better to keep the the rated speed within the guidelines of the manufacturer rated voltage is your battery voltage so it's a 72 volt for us your rated power is your nominal power so for R Motors it's uh 4,000 watts um rated speed and Max Speed it's weird uh cuz they're the same thing just keep those identical back speed is the reverse speed so if you hook up a reverse button um that's going to be how quickly that thing can go in reverse if you want to make your bike be able to reverse at 70 M hour you can do that uh it just is a little terrifying so keep that at you know no more than 100 RPMs for reverse and now we're getting into the really important ones so your max line current is um something that is set by the battery manufacturers but usually A good rule of thumb is to take the BMS of your battery and reduce it by at least about 10% um sometimes 15 to 20% is even a good idea so our bikes uh you know they have a 100 amp BMS on it and so we put that down to about 90 amps and that's a nice you know safe place to be um your max line current is really going to affect your top speed right so usually what we say is line current is mostly connected to top speed and the phase current is mostly connected to the torque that you're going to experience so you can increase your line current all day and you're going to feel a bit of a torque increase but it's until you adjust your phase current that you're going to feel that difference so keep the line current um well within the BMS ratings of your bike you do not want to make your line current equal to the BMS rating of your bike um you're just going to be running it at Peak all the time and uh that's not good for the longevity phase current our general rule of thumb is to uh take your line current and multiply it by about 2.5 so you know for us it's 90 * 2.5 um and then you can kind of increase it from there and this is going to kind of change depending on your Rider weight and the weight of the bike and a bunch of other things for the javelin we have found it to be most consistent at about 270 amps reliably if you are a a heavier Rider or you're carrying a bunch of cargo um and you're getting motor C offs I would highly recommend go to your max phase current and bring that down from 270 to maybe 250 and that will prevent that from happening but yeah the general rule of thumb is to take your line current multiply by 2.5 and that will be your max phase current we can talk about Max phase current in another video it's a very technical thing but for now let's just use that rule of thumb your throttle response uh we put into sport because that's the most Snappy um if you if you take it down to the other settings it's going to be a you know not as Twitchy off the line throttle acceleration step 220 um that is the max so if you put that down to 100 it's going to be a very slow acceleration uh 220 is the most Snappy your Boost line current uh we keep that at the max line current rating but if you connect a boost button to your bike uh you can activate the function uh we just don't have it connected up right now because it is it's not very reliable um we did a bunch of testing early on with the Boost button and it was just kind of a weird feature it wasn't repeatable um so hopefully that's something that far driver works out in the future but for right now we don't really use it instead we just kind of have the other settings there um and it's been running great so moving on down to the weak characters um this is all related to flux weakening and uh this is we're getting to some technical stuff right now um but generally I keep it on zero for fast the throttle deceleration step um at 128 the throttle low at about 1.1 uh you could actually get that down to about 1 if you want but if you notice that your bike is just moving without you even hitting the throttle that means your low throttle point is too low and you need to bump it up and then your throttle high at 3.9 and so basically you have a low throttle voltage and a high uh voltage on your throttle and the program takes those two points and scales your throttle curve between there keep on moving down we see ratios in speed so I have it set up right now in a way that's actually not correct um so you know keep in mind we had the Max RPM rated to 850 RPMs well I'm looking down here and I got 1% on some of these higher end RPMs and things like that and this isn't going to really do anything so let's talk about what ratios and speed is so ratios and speed um basically the percentage is the max amount of current that you are going to be able to put out from your battery at different RPMs so some people want the max power to be sent off at that low RPM to get it off the line some people want to take that power down and ramp it as they go up there's a bunch of different things that you can do uh me personally I will go through and reduce that percentage as I get into the higher RPMs because you really don't feel a huge difference at these higher RPMs and you're just kind of burning power when you don't need to and usually what I will do is um at 1,000 RPM which is above what it's rated for I'll I'll keep it you know maybe 10% on there and those are going to be those circumstances where you got your your giant Hills and your your bomb in it okay so I've updated all my ratios and speed and you can see how the the percentages Decay down as I get upwards uh towards my Max RPM um I don't have any power going on those higher RPMs because it's not there okay keep on moving down we got ratios in gear so these are going to be your speed one and Speed 2 settings so um on the javelin there are only two settings and so what we would like to do is I'll go to the middle speed and I will put that at about 440 CU I know 440 on the javelin is about 35 mph I can then adjust the phase current and the line current so I'm going to bring those down to about 75 and so that is 75% of whatever the max was so if um I had it set at 100 amps for example it would only allow 75 amps um and then if I had a a low speed on there which I don't right now but let's just do it for fun I would then take all those percentages down and uh and match everything up okay I'm going to continue down to get to the energy regenerate um we don't use regen actually on the javelin or on the brute um we use some heavy duty motorcycle brakes and um the regen is really not necessary for us and uh has just we've experienced some issues with regen and so we don't really use it but you may want to if you are going to use it um you have your max back currents um so you can you can set these to whatever is going to be best for your situation you know I I wouldn't go above probably half what the amps are rated to on your battery um personally what I would do is I would start them off very low I would probably go maybe no more than 20% of what your BMS is rated to definitely make sure your battery can accept regen and then kind of work your way down similar to the ratios in speed you have uh all these different ratios uh for the energy regen and what this is going to do is going to say how much regen it activate at different RPMs and this is really helpful because if you are at a low RPM so let's say you're at 125 RPMs you don't want it to put that full you know 50 or 60 amps of regen on you you know you're just kind of walking your bike and then you hit the brake and it really stops hard and that can also be true for the the higher speeds so you could be going 70 M hour and just tap your break and then it is stopping like a eere so you can really adjust how effective the regen is depending on your RPM and that's something that you can just play around with this is this is something that's really fun um and you can tune it but be really careful with regen if you have a hub motor and you're putting regen on there you absolutely need to make sure that you have torque arms you need to make sure that you have a backup nut on the motor itself because the forward and backwards motion on that Dropout your motor loosens up um this is is also one of the reasons why we do not use it on our bikes you need to really double check things to make sure they're staying tight if you want to look up something um to help you look up a Nord lock washer it's a great way to add some additional security just to make sure that motor does not loosen up if you're running heavy regen also you can run such high regen that it can break an axle so really really be careful with regen guys um you know if you're using it as your main braking system just be super careful I would upgrade your brakes before you go crazy with regen moving down to the functions page so um these are all the different pins and things and what's really cool about far driver is if you open up the the the manual and see all the wiring you can repin things so if you got a bad wire or something on your controller you can go through there and say I'm going to use this wire instead of the one I'm going to I was supposed to use and repin it it's really really helpful let's move forward uh down here to the break so the break functions are going to be important for regen or not for regen but um the main one is you know you want it to be when the stop is valid so when you squeeze your break that is what is going to send a signal to the controller to shut the motor off and tell it that you're braking so usually use um the stop valid there's a couple other ones here so you can make it like an inverse stop so that might be helpful for like a mura break where it's sending power continuously and then when you squeeze it it interrupts it so nine times out of 10 it's stop valid but you may need to check these other ones depending on what you're doing and then in here on that pc13 um you can put it on normal response or race response I usually put it onto race response and then in the follow the follow is going to be there for that regen function so right now on this bike it has it set up and so I can do eabs when break is valid so if you're doing regen you got to make sure you have your stop uh set up correctly you have to make sure you're either on Race response or normal response probably Ras response and then your follow function um you want to set up uh when the break is valid you can also set it up in an interesting way so that regen activates when you release your throttle it's kind of like a Tesla or electric car you can see the eabs when release throttle so as soon as you release your throttle it starts breaking I hate that but people love it I'm going to disable my regen for now but that would be where you activate it in the follow page now we keep on scrolling down into the display function um this is all stuff that you really should not change um there are times where the displays have issues with far drivers I will say one way that you can check if it if it's a possibility is to look at the speed pulses okay so if you're having a connection issue with your display open up the speed pulses and go one by one here I know there's a lot um but you kind of have to go one by one and see if changing that will will help you out that's you know that's helped me out a few times it's not helped me out a lot of times usually it's bad programming in the displays another thing actually that can be looked in for the displays is the bite option so if I open the bite option um you can change that as well I have seen it have to go on six I've had I've seen it have to go on eight um this one is set to three but you know this is all this is getting into the very technical stuff and then going down here to the protect mode so uh these are just standard functions that are set up during the autolearn function again um if you really want to be risky you can adjust some of these other functions but it's going to show what the low voltage is and it's going to set your temperature settings and a bunch of other things um you know so if you are getting like low voltage or over voltage alarms going off and things like that and you're like my set like my battery is fine what's going on check out your protect section of this page because it's a it's a possibility that the voltages and things like that could have gotten set wrong so like let's say by chance you just open it up and mistakenly put over voltage set up to like 70 volts and you pluged in your battery it would say over over voltage protect um you know and then you need to go back and and update that scrolling down to the PID parameters now this is this is getting very very technical um generally you're going to see everybody say just stay away from that and I would also recommend you just stay away from adjusting the PID parameters if you adjust these settings um things can change dramatically with your bike and that's not necessarily going to be a good thing um it could make the bike do a bunch of really weird stuff so I would say stay away from this however if you are you know somebody that's manufacturing bikes and you're wanting to understand more about this what I would say is uh go to Google and look up far driver P parameter settings and you're going to find a PDF and that PDF is going to have um a variety of different parameters for these different numbers it's going to say you know something like jet skis and all these different things and um basically you can set the different values according to those things but you want to make sure you follow the right ratios if you don't follow the right ratios in that document it will mess everything out but really guys I know you're tempted to get in here and change these things and everybody was going to say oh this is how you tune your bike this is not like just stay away from those functions and really base things off your batteries phase current and your max line current and the percentages and speed all right and then if we keep on going down to the product area you're going to see all these different things and those don't really need to get changed so keep them where they're where they're at and those are pretty much all the different settings um so really the autolearn function on the far driver does a great job but the main things that you're going to want to watch for are do you have the correct temperature sensor set up on your bike cuz nine times out of 10 it's not so that's going to be creating errors make sure your line current is set at least 10% below your BMS make sure your phase current is about 2 and 1 half times your line current all right make sure that you set your Max RPM to what the motor manufacturer States it's usually right on their website it's also sometimes in uh like the Amazon listing AliExpress listing Ebay listing wherever you got your bike if you're going to do regen be really careful with it um and you can activate it in that eabs page uh just make sure guys you don't go too crazy to start I would say set it to no more than 10 to 20% of your line current take it out see how it feels and then go from there any you know if everything still seems kind of weird on it you've done a bunch of tuning and you're just like trying to figure out what's going on you can open that thing back up and hit the restore function and restore all the default settings back to normal run an auto learn and you'll be back into your safe place where you can start over again and kind of work it up but start slow um don't don't push the max power of your bike right away you know and and gradually step it up you know if if you are going out right away and you're getting shut offs go to your phase current and lower it down you want to get as much out of your bike as possible these things are really expensive guys and um they're really powerful and they can be really dangerous so anyway that's everything that you need to know about programming your far driver