Transcript for:
Comparative Analysis of VFC Gen 2 and Gen 3

What's up guys and welcome back to the channel. I'm Andy the Middle-Aged Gamer and this is a comparison video between the VFC Gen 2 and Gen 3 GBBR. Okay, now before we jump into this awesome video, two things I want to say. The first one is everything you see in this video is airsoft related. There are no real firearms used or shot in this video at all. These are all pure... Airsoft. It was all filmed in a safe and secure location at my own private range. With that being said, the second thing I want to state is everything you see here was bought and paid for by myself. There are no sponsors, there are nothing, I would say, monetary given to me to make me do this video or to sway my opinions in either way. I have enough skin in the game and enough time on these two weapons to be able to explain the differences, except... between the two. So without further ado let's jump in. What you see here is the VFC 416 Gen 2 at the top and the VFC Knights Armament SR16 Gen 3 at the bottom. Now what are the main differences? Well externally between the Gen 2 and Gen 3 in each respective weapons are the same. other than build quality nothing quite literally there are no differences between the two they all feature high quality construction now even better with the gen 3 you would say some people like to say the markings etc but that is just the same with any company with anything over time so let's disassemble these down to the parts and go over what really is the difference between the gen 2 and a gen 3. okay now that we've disassembled assembled these replicas down to the most important parts that are actually different. As you can see, the upper receivers are not here on the table as basically those are identical. They both feature the same hop chambers, the same guide hops, the same inner barrels, etc. There really isn't any difference between those. The main differences are what you see here on these bits here. With that being said, let's dive into what is actually happening. actually different. Okay, so we'll start with the magazine, shall we? We have our Gen 2 and Gen 3. Now, if you purchase a Gen 3 416, you'll still get the Gen 2 mag, because sadly they haven't made these mags. Now, why haven't they? Well, simple. If I put them side by side, you can now see there is a difference. Even if I make sure that they're level, put them here on the table. and then we just turn you can actually see whoops that one slipped there you go a physical difference okay these are actually taller and slightly more bigger as you can see here on the feed part You can just see side by side, they're a little bit more substantial. It's more rounded here. And that's why these don't fit in the Rattler or the new MCX coming or anything like that. They are basically special magazines for the 416. but believe it or not they do work in the gen 3 ars they do work in other rifles so there's no problem there when it comes to the upper part of it you can see on the gen 2 you still have steel internals which people are going to say oh yeah they're more rigid yes they are but they don't need to be all that does is lift up the bolt stop it doesn't need to be steel it just needs to be strong enough to apply the pressure and that all comes down to your follower spring and the linkage arms and so on. On here, you can see it is a red nylon polymer. You have your, how would you say, dry fire switch here. So you just drop that down, lock that, gets your little follower out of the way and allows you to keep firing all day long. Great for movie making. Your fill valves are still in the upper location, as you can see. It is quite simple. With the HK, you do still get the nice markings on there, et cetera, and the H and K at the bottom. With the Stanax, they're just generic. I'm not sure. And they work. So we can get rid of these now, can't we? Okay. So that brings us down to the buffers. Spoiler alert. These buffers are identical. The buffer springs, the buffers internally, they're the same. The reason being is when the Gen 2 came out, that was the first fix they did in the Gen 2. You see, with the bolt carrier on the Gen 2, being made of zinc, it is very lightweight. And so really did suffer, just like GHK, just like Tokyo Marui, etc., that if you put too much of a light, you would have bolt bouts. Now with Tokyo Marui, they just delayed the entire gun's release and changed the internal system, and we got the Zet MWS that we know today. But with VFC, they needed to change that. So you now have the spring and... I don't know if that can get across, but you do have a... basically a reciprocating weight that would absorb the counter. So as the gun goes in, that's going to be slammed to the rear, but when it stops, it goes like that and stops it from bouncing at the rear end or at the forward. end position and your strong recoil spring pushes it out the way quite quickly so let's get rid of these shall we we can now eliminate those like i say they are identical now we're getting into real differences here let's start with the vertigen 2 bolt carrier shall we so what you see here is the 416 believe it or not this will work in a standard ar the only thing different is as you can see the gas key okay that's the real only differences size wise and so on they're pretty much the same so this is one very dirty but two made of zinc alloy there are only steel parts are here this little pinned insert that you can see most people will lose that and when you do you need to get a whole new bolt carrier because getting a pin to refit that and get it all re attached no now they're not expensive and the good thing is if you have a gen 3 416 bolt carrier available to you on the market you can grab it and drop it in the only difference is this is now going to become steel with the gen 3 okay the takedown is the same same the nozzles inside i'm not sure if that will pop up but they are we can clear that up yep there we go v3 nozzles so you have the same internal nozzle system etc which just down inside there is a 1.5 millimeter hex skew you turn it that way to add turn it the other way to remove the fps you have a 50 fps balance either way from stock in the middle basically as it comes so with the gen three like i say this is full-on steel bolt carrier now all the way across they've simplified it because they made it a steel as you can see there is no insert bit here that's pinned in and you can see there's very little wear like i say that gun has quite a fair few more that's around about 8 000 rounds this one is coming up to 3 000 now and as you can see very little where the quality is just improved everything is just a little bit better but like i say The main difference is also, because you've gone to steel, is the weight. This is twice the weight of the zinc, give or take. But yeah, whereas the zinc bulk carrier comes in at around about the 180 to 200 gram mark, with the nozzle and all its bits, this one is coming in at 400 to 500, depending again on the bits and adding extra material, like the numpties at the place where I got this from. Put in the... the old-fashioned, how would you say, restrictor down there. Now, I know why they did it. Like I said in the video, they did it for legal reasons, because sadly, here in the UK, one thing you'll need to know when you're importing your weapons, basically, check the FPS. If the FPS is around about 3 to 350, you're fine. You won't see tricks like this. But because this has a max of 400 FPS, if the UK customs... do a check and they have been doing certain importers are basically now taking it upon themselves to put restrictors in there and manually restrict it so it can't be going above 300 fps for safety because again they will fire the weapon they actually do do that you know um if you're the unlucky one on the day that they've gone out and said oh this one looks hot it's long barrel rifle etc they will actually try it and test fire it they do send it off for testing and that can lead to months of delays and potentially your gun being destroyed here in the UK because if it shoots anything above 375 fps it's classed as a real firearm and therefore you're importing a real firearm when you shouldn't be doing etc etc and well it's a legal nightmare so The retailer that I got this from is what explained that to me because they'd had a few. So they weren't risking it and so therefore the restrictors in. Is it a bad thing? No. I own a spare one. I can swap it out in two minutes and we're back to normal. you know, just need the time to do it, as they say. Ever busy. Now, now that we've done that, we're going to need to zoom in even closer and go over the real difference between the two. Okay, so now that we've got this up close to the camera, you can see the Gen 2 is closest to the camera, the Gen 3 furthest. way the takedown pins front and rear are mil spec so they're both identical made of steel same with the buffer retention pins there or retaining pins they are basically steel because when they introduced the gen 2 you had the enhanced buffer and heavy recoil spring so they needed a stronger pin to hold it now your fun seer let's call it that way are the same your go shafts that connect the two fire selector levers in there and tell the Replica what to do whether it's semi safe or fun. There are steel your hammers are steel and Your hammer sears are steel so you will be able to hear the difference if I use the gen 2 You can hear that nicely thump onto it. But if I use the gen 3 You can hear a massive absolute whack you can hear you hear it hit with a lot more authority now like i say these sears are steel but it's what the sears sit in that are different on between the gen 2 and gen 3 the gen 2 is a aluminum and the gen 3 is full steel so you get an aluminum trigger blade and a steel trigger bay basically out of that now if we reset the hammers back your bolt stops are pretty much the same the steel your uh whole connection unit the pins everything is steel between the two the main difference believe it or not is the firing pin so if i just drop the gen three out of the way for a second now with the gen two You have one major issue because it was the same carryover from the Gen 1. And that is this. This little piece here. If I can bring that closer for you. This little piece here with... Let's see if we can get that spring into a better background for you. That tiny little conical compressor spring is its weak Achilles heel. Now, what do I mean by that? Well, quite simple. I don't know if we can get that input. But right there is a... little screw a hex screw so you will need to disassemble the tape download by taking that pin out then this will lift off you unscrew that screw and you'll take the little lid off here and that exposes a channel that this firing pin sits in. Now, I'll spin it around. As you can see, there's the actual product code. You've got the QR code there if you want to use it and locate what that actually is yourself, just to prove a point. That part alone will cost you about £40 to import at the high end, £30 to £35 at the low end to get it here in the UK for that one little piece. And like I say, you just pop the pin, take this off, unscrew it, take that out and drop in your new assembly. And away you go. now that is the killies heel to this gun especially if you're going to be using it on burst or burst mode or fun mode let's put it that way in semi-auto you're going to be fine for at least three to eight thousand rounds that's a big variance i know but it's kind of like what i've been hearing and doing during my research and my own personal experience but the moment you start using the fun mode that little compression spring gets battered to hell and therefore will bend and so on you'll know it because when you put a fresh mag in and you charge the gun and you pull the trigger you'll get a little put sound and it won't shoot you'll hear the hammer drop but it'll just go put and at that point you need to pull the mag out Set the hammer again and push in the firing pin and then it'll work or change out the spring and purchase a new one. You know you've got that issue at that point. Now, of course, with the Gen 3, that will be unacceptable. So in order to fix the issue. What they did, if I move this now out of the way, with the Gen 3, you still have the exact... If I can pull that in there. You still have the same little screw in the same place to disassemble. You still... pop the same cross pin there lift this up that literally will pop out and then you'll have a t-shape module in here now it's the same as in the rattler um the basically the it was at the apfg mcx rattler etc which is vsc as we all know um their gen 3 firing pins are just a better module it's a complete t-shape module with a leaf spring hammer in there that's at its smallest point three millimeters thick at its widest point it's four millimeters thick so it's going to last and made of solid steel so it will basically take the the fun punishment Let's put it that way. And that is your main difference. The firing pin itself, that's really what distinguishes itself between the Gen 2 and the Gen 3. Obviously, with the Gen 3, there are a lot more, how do I say, increased performance parts, et cetera, that you would think, such as... Better quality made. Let's put it that way. That's what I really mean. Better quality made bits. Such as, you've got your better engravings. You can see here, very clear, very deep, which is a lot better. The finish on the rifle is great. Even after 2,000 rounds, you can see here, it's... Right there, you can see just a bit of wear, but you look at it compared to one that's had more, you can see the wear there. The finish is just a little bit better. You've got the single-piece buffer tube still, which is great. That was the same for the Gen 2 and the Gen 3. Again, these are... just baby increments so yeah there you mean differences obviously the parts like these these are what you would call in the real steel as min parts or mass injection molded parts um yes they do make them out of steel and so on but you know when the injection molded the liquid steel and so on but generally it comes down to the point where these are mass manufactured parts and they're normally where you would expect to see failures but As I can tell you off here, I've had no failure with those. Everything's been high-end and, like I say, just really high quality between the two. The main failure has been that firing pin, and that's where I would say whether it's to buy or not to buy. So let's put these back together and go over final thoughts. Okay, so now they're all fully assembled and on the table. Let's go over my thoughts. This whole video came about because I was asked a question whether it was worth to purchase a Gen 2 nowadays with the Gen 3 being out, especially on the used market. etc and here's my simple answer if you own a gen 2 keep it there's no reason to upgrade it at this moment in time everything that you see on your gen 2 and gen 3 is pretty much the same between the two other than the main bit being the bulk carrier being steel and the actual firing pin being totally different and non-interchangeable everything else is interchangeable works perfectly fine and you can always keep buying the parts they're the same What does that mean long term? Well it's simple. You have three options. You can continue to buy that piece. That's this firing pin. While you can still find it. Like I say, that's one option. You can purchase a... an ESD or EDS, I can't remember the exact name, drop in firing pin, an upgraded firing pin for it, for your Gen 2, no problem. That's about £50 from Action Airsoft. You'll be able to Google that yourselves. and find that easily enough. Or you can purchase a lower receiver for the Gen 3, which will fit, all your parts will drop into it, and you just need to buy the firing pin. And that's it. And you've suddenly got yourself a Gen 3 gun. So yeah, if you own a Gen 2, it's fine. If you're looking to get into gas blowbacks and you're looking at the secondary market because you don't want to splurge out 600 quid for a brand new Gen 3 or 650 for the S. SR-16, etc. You don't be dumping that sort of money in it. You want to get in and build it up slowly, then yeah, buy yourself a Gen 2. There's no problem there whatsoever. It's perfectly fine because there is an upgrade path. There is a path to keep that gun in the fight for long term. And I do mean long term. They are both awesome weapons. Yes, the differences of quality manufacturing over time. It's the same with anything. Whenever you mass produce something, the more you do it, one, it gets cheaper, but But two, you see imperfections and you can change them and get better and better. So the later it is in that generation's manufacturer, you'll find that a lot. better compared to the first batch as you would say so yeah that's just normal across everything but like i say it's going to come down to what you want it to do how much money you have available and to be honest with you they are both awesome amazing weapons they are brilliant for airsoft and i would highly recommend you either go out and get a gen 2 or a gen 3 obviously like say new go for a gen 3 if you're looking on the used gen 2 is perfectly fine save yourself some money put that money money into buying yourself a good optic or some mags etc and get yourself in the game okay so we've reached the end of the video now and i hope you've enjoyed this and it's been informative for you i know there's been a lack of firing in this video but it's a video that needed to be done to explain because not many people are actually explaining the differences between the two and there is a lot of misunderstanding out there so that's why this video exists and if you've gotten this far please like like the video, subscribe to the channel, and leave a comment. Let me know what guns you do want to see on this channel. I'm always looking and I'm always adding to the list. The more people that ask for something, the more chance you're going to see it sooner than later. So, like I say, I've been The Middle-Aged Gamer, you guys have been awesome, and I will see you in the next one.