[Music] all right so the 1.8 turbo can be found on many different volkswagen audi vehicles starting with the mark iv it's found in the gulf and the jetta as well as the the new beetle as well it actually carried over to the mark one audi tt there's many different power levels primarily based on which turbo came with in the software tuning with power ranges anywhere from 150 horse all the way up to about 225 horse which was found as the most powerful version of this motor and that was on the the audi tt225 in today's video we're going to go over many of the different maintenance items you're going to want to replace during ownership of these vehicles or of this engine we're going to go over some of the common failure points things to look out for and things that just typically wear out over time all right so you may notice that we do have some parts on the bench in front of us some are new and you may notice that some are used and that's because a lot of the used parts here are from diys that we've recently done on the one point turbo for the community with that said we're going to walk over to the car and i'm gonna show you what to look out for all right so we're over at the car and uh just to simply put it i'm gonna go over things from left to right and basically how they're laid out um starting with this brand new coolant level reservoir so this typically it's not really that big of a failure item but what happens is over time they do get oxidized and discolored so more so as a cosmetic thing but you know they can leak at the seams here so just a general maintenance item again moving on from there obviously the biggest component on the left side of the engine is going to be the time belt these are to be replaced every 75 000 miles we do have a video diy you can check out if your needs to replace one on your particular car when you're doing the engine timing belt and replacing that you're going to want to replace all the components that go along with it so that means your timing belt itself obviously your hydraulic tensioner there is a mechanical tensioner you're going to want to replace the serpentine belt which is your drive belt and that's what drives all your accessories on the particular engine good time to also replace the drive belt tensioner as well just another three bolts and also one of the other items that you have to remove to replace the time belt is going to be the engine mount on the side so again like one of those jobs that while you're in there there's multiple components that you'd love to replace not a bad idea so typically a time belt uh let's get into that so how do you know if a time belt is you know has gone bad or is ready to replace number one like i mentioned earlier every 75 000 miles aside from that if you look at the belt if you see any type of glazing or stress cracks or any fraying or anything like that replace your timing belt so is one of the most critical components on this engine and the reason being it basically sinks the top half of the engine to the bottom half and if that belt was to go bad basically you're going to have a valve to piss in contact and you know catastrophic engine damage pretty much uh you know that cylinder head would have to come off and uh you'd have to replace some valves um now keep in mind on this particular engine it's five valves per cylinder you know 20 valve engine that probably isn't a fun job you're gonna have a lot of valves to replace so general rule of thumb make sure you stay on top of your timing belt besides the belt you also have tensioner so along with the belt always going to want to replace your timing belt tensioners actually if you look at the volkswagen procedure for this particular engine they do show you how to compress the hydraulic tensioner so you could reuse it just a no-brainer just replace the tensioner you know if you go to uh the fcpro catalog we do have some oe components it's literally two bolts and it's much easier to replace you don't have to compress the piston other than the time belt components themselves something else to look out for so again this car these engines are getting you know up there in age and with that said you have a lot of different rubber hoses so for instance you have you know these rubber fuel lines here it's a quick disconnect on this side and there's some hose clamps here but over time these hoses do dry rot and they can start to leak so you know if you're in there doing the job or even if you pop the hood and just happen to notice it um you know replace those those hoses as well all right in addition to the time belt i mentioned the drive belt earlier the same scenario as the timing belt if you notice any type of cracking fraying any type of glazeness any type of noise coming from the particular belt itself you can actually get a pretty good visual on it right here uh just looking down so quick way to gauge you know how old it is or if it's you know on its way out just do a visual inspection one other thing you can look out for is once you're you know removing the belt or you have it disconnected or off the vehicle not a bad idea to just go through all your accessories your alternator um you know if you're not replacing these the serpentine belt tensioner go through the uh the idler on that tensor itself just spin all the accessories by hand and listen listen for any type of bearing noise you know that's it's a good opportunity to to listen and see if any of the bearings are worn in any of the accessories just some other components in the area to be uh cognizant of this is your power steering reservoir so that sits right on top of the engine mount obviously if you have any type of leaking coming from that reservoir good time to replace it check out your hoses if they're leaking replace it they look old or brittle or worn out tired replace them i mentioned the engine mount earlier that is another component that wears out in this particular engine they sag over time so if you notice that you like your engine's really sagging pretty bad to one side you know it could be that you need a new engine mount as well other components in the location obviously you have your windshield washer reservoir here this is your main throttle body hose that goes to your throttle body i have seen from time to time the throttle bodies give out so pretty easy four bolts right up top moving on to there we can go over the valve cover so the valve cover gasket is also known to leak basically it goes around the entire perimeter um not too bad of a job but while you're in there there's another uh gasket that leaks on the back side um and that is your timing chain tensioner so i know we mentioned this this engine has a belt uh and you're gonna notice one pulley up front so basically there's two cams and only one pulley that's driven off the time belt and that's because so this pulley dries uh it's connected to the camshaft and goes to the back of the engine and then there's a timing chain that links the exhaust camshaft to the intake camshaft in between that chain is a chain tensioner naturally which keeps tension on the chain as the name suggests and there's a seal underneath the timing chain tensioner that seal typically gets really hot crusty it will dry out over time and that will leak so if you notice that you know any type of i want to say a larger oil leak on the back side of the engine it's probably coming from that seal so typically it's not a bad idea to replace your valve cover gasket and your your timing chain tensioner at the same time all right so just another quick note on the timing chain tensioner when you're doing that job you will need a special tool and we'll link that above basically what that tool does is it compresses the chain tensioner it takes tension off the chain you're able to move the tensioner out and out of the way to replace that seal there are some aftermarket and even the other factory ones they come plastic however we do have a really robust robust unit from zero three four motorsports and again we'll link that uh up above moving on from the valve cover obviously you're gonna have your ignition and this is kind of like uh where volkswagen got pretty notorious for their ignition coils going bad this is one of their first coil unplugged designs and on these particular engines they were notorious for the coils going bad there have been several multiple revisions you know at this point so what you find now at the retailers and on our site is like the latest revision they are pretty reliable pretty easy to replace you know they just pop right out there is a connector here with that said again plastic connectors they do get old they do get brittle over time so when you're releasing them you have to be really really careful if you have to get in there with a pick to release one of the tabs not a bad idea but just you know it's one of those volkswagen classic style connectors where you push in you press down on the clamp and then you pull back problem with that is where you're pushing down on its plastic and sometimes they do break if they do break not the end of the world you just have to replace the connector housing itself but it's additional time you have to swap the wires out so a telltale sign of the ignition coil failing misfires you're going to get a flashing check engine light you're going to lose a ton of power the car's not going to be driving well i probably don't you have to tell you all the symptoms because you're you're just going to know that you flew a coil or or maybe even a spark plug that time you know if spark plug fails you're gonna get the same thing we suggest replacing the ignition coils and spark plugs anywhere between you know 40 and 60 000 miles depending on your driving conditions and how you actually drive the car or if you have any type of modifications but generally within that range moving on to the fuel system on the back of the car obviously you're going to have a fuel pump which is an intake pump which is going to send pressure up to the fuel rail here this is your fuel rail that runs across the intake manifold and you do have injectors that's kind of like the beauty of the one point turbo is this is right before they came out with the fsi engines so you still do have the multi-port so you really don't have to worry about too much carbon buildup on the back of the valves but with that said it does have some problems in its own they are still fuel injectors they are still you know electronically operated so they can fail that way or the tips or the nozzles can get clogged up as well so you may not get like a good spray pattern and you may not be getting like the best performance out of the injector as well another common trait on this particular car so the injectors sit inside of what's called a fuel injector cup now the cup is it's a plastic cup and it threads into the intake manifold and over time those plastic cups can also crack and break so if you're getting any type of like fuel leak or even like an air leak check around those cups it's very common there are some aftermarket options out there um that you know replace the plastic cups with aluminum injector cups uh typically they fail start checking them out anywhere between like 75 100 000 miles or seven to ten years plus i mean there's no real time limit on when these things are good or when they're bad and when they could fail just something to be cognizant of keep an eye on them so now moving to the front of the engine um first and foremost you can't miss it this bright orange dipstick two things the handle falls off they crack and then the two underneath very very common for these to break uh especially at this age and you know higher miles as soon as you look at them they typically just crumble before you even get a chance to touch them so uh something else to be uh to be cognizant of keep an eye on that also you're gonna notice that um these hoes here these are the air pump hoses um they're plastic they're corrugated and over time they don't hold up all that well so this car has approximately 150 658 000 miles obviously you can see that these have been replaced at some point i want to say anywhere from the general range of 100 000 miles onward or 7 10 years onward they're plastic keep an eye on them speaking of the air pump there are some other components that do fail in that system as well so obviously you have these two lines one runs to the back here there's the combi valve that is the valve that basically controls the the air pump and then there's also this hose that goes through the air box down to the air pump as well and then on the air pump when i put the car back up in the air later i'm actually going to show you there's a there's some little mounts on the air pump itself that's what keeps it fixed into place they're rubber and those dry rot over time as well so basically to reiterate in that system the pumps can fail the mounts of the pumps can fail the hoses can fail and then also the combi valve which is back here moving onward some other common replacement items we're going to have basically your pcv hoses you're going to notice some of these hoses are nice and fresh up here again rubber hoses they do fail over time the valve not so much not a bad idea to replace the valve itself but more so the actual hoses another component is going to be your diverter valve up here and this is your turbo boost controller valve or the n75 valve those typically fail a very common replacement item when the n75 typically fails you could get some um some boost issues car not producing enough boost whereas over boosting and throwing the car into limp mode that's very common with that you're also going to get some check engine light which will probably point you in the right direction of the turbo boost control valve or the n75 now moving on to the right side of the engine just some other basic components here you know you got your air filter basic tune-up item replace your plugs replace your air filter very very easy it just pops right out of place it's a couple phillips head screws here disconnect you know the air pump hose mass air flips up and then you have obviously the battery which is located here battery pretty simple just one other thing to note there you could check out our diy for that but there's a plate with a bracket that tends to get rusted into place so if you could free it up that's great if not you may need to replace the battery tray and that's again only if it gets rusted but very simple everything is right in front of you very easy to access all these components so now we've gone over some of the the maintenance items and some of the mechanical items to look out for let's go into one of the other major pain points of this vehicle and this particular engine this is going to be the cooling system of the 1.8 turbo so there's many different components that fail and things to look out for let's start off with the timing belt so basically the timing belt also drives the water pump now the water pump originally came on this car with a composite impeller you will notice especially on our website a lot of different brands will offer a metal impeller my advice is to stick with that so what happens with the plastic composite impeller is over time so think about you know the engine heating cooling heating cooling what happens with plastic over time if it's heating and cooling it gets brittle and it breaks off so when it happens you may notice your cars start to overheat so if you're replacing your time belt or have to replace your water pump i always recommend to stick with a water pump that has a metal impeller moving on from there another common item is going to be the thermostat and the thermostat is kind of buried underneath the intake manifold here easiest way to get that is you know remove these air pump hoses here and there's a plate right up top here underneath that plate there's going to be a whole hodge of vacuum hoses and again anything that's rubber or plastic over time it gets brittle and it will break so when you're going to access the thermostat you're going to have to flip this plate over and there's a really really good chance that you may break or damage some of these lines if they're not already broken already we do also sell this particular cluster on our website so be sure to check that out we'll put a link above other than that you know swinging this plate out of the way removing the dipstick tube and replacing that because you're probably going to have to the thermostat is it's buried it's just behind the alternator you can see it the probably the hardest part is just getting to some of the bolts on the the actual coolant flange so basically this is the flange for the thermostat like i said there's just the two bolts this bottom one can be a little bit difficult to get to we do have a diy that shows you exactly how to do that short and sweet just use a swivel socket but again it's not really that hidden it's just underneath the intake manifold and it's in a pretty bad spot all right so we talked about the water pump we talked about the thermostat another common item is going to be the flange on the side of the cylinder head here that is a plastic flange voltage are notorious for having these plastic flanges on the side the cylinder heads and what happens over time is either this o-ring will dry out and it'll leak or the actual plastic will crack and it'll start to leak from there too in addition to that is another component in the cooling system which is your engine cooling temperature sensor and that resides in this flange as well that is a commonly failed item and one that fails you could either a get a check engine light or in some extreme cases you may actually get like your car not starting um and obviously you could get false readings on you know the the coolant gauge as well as far as the sensor goes that could fail anywhere you know early mileage or late mileage is something to be cognizant of there have been many revisions on the website we do have the latest one be sure to check that out moving on from there obviously in the cooling system just inspect all your hoses make sure there's no leaks and the other major component that you have is going to be your radiator all right so with that set up here i'm going to bring you underneath the car now and i'm going to show you a few other pain points underneath and actually where the radiators leaking on this pacific all right so now we're underneath the car and like i mentioned the the radiator is leaking and i just want to show you where and and pretty much why that happens so basically if you look at a radiator you're going to have plastic cores on each end and then there's going to be the metal core in the center that has all the cooling fins on it and that's where the coolant flows back and forth and typically what you're going to see is basically where the plastic tank meets the the metal core of the radiator that's where it actually leaks and you can see if you zoom in here if you look on the ends here you can see this is completely i mean it looks like a original radiator the end tanks where you know the crimps are are completely rusted over and you can actually see some coolant dripping from the area so not a bad thing to look and inspect just get underneath the car take a look at those see if there's any coolant dripping um while i'm down here just something to mention this is where you would drain the coolant if you were to be working on the cooling system there's just this little petcock here basically it's a little valve and you just turn it and the coolant drains right out so you don't have to disconnect the lower hose or anything like that other than that you know you do have your cooling fans those typically do fail from time to time sometimes you can get a code other times you just notice that they're enough and maybe the car is overheating moving on from there we're going to talk about the air pump i mentioned the air pump earlier the air pump does reside right over here so it's right in front of the oil pan and this is where you can see the hoses that plug right into it and you're going to notice the mounts so basically the air pump mounts to this metal bracket here and it's held in by these rubber grommets and basically the these mounts will crack over time such as this one you can see this one's just about to let go to be honest ones in back not too far behind so just a better visual from underneath you could check that out again power steering pump always check your lines if the car especially if the car doesn't have any type of splash shield underneath all this stuff is completely exposed to the elements so you're just asking for trouble there so always a good idea to check those out again here's a better view of the serpentine belt and your accessories obviously the power steering is one you have your crankshaft you have your ac compressor and your alt and air up top all right so moving on obviously one of the other main components down here is going to be your oil pan those do typically leak as well if you are noticing any type of leak it's going to be from the perimeter of the oil pan another thing you can look out for is any type of oil that's leaking from you know where the engine and the transmission mate together um that could indicate a rear main seal leak as well if you have a leak underneath your crankshaft pulley that could indicate that you have a crankshaft seal a front crank seal leak another common oil leak to look out for is basically this is your turbo return line so this is basically all the oil that's coming from your turbo and it's draining back down into the oil pan it doesn't so much leak so much from the from the oil pan itself you know there is a gasket here and it's not too too common but primarily where this hose leaks is from where the braided or crimped end meets the the metal tube again something else be wary of this particular line leaks as well also we didn't mention turbochargers but they do have oil seals internally you could have an xor leak from you know basically where some of the lines may up but if you have an internal oil leak basically you're going to see a lot of oil getting plumbed through your intake piping so as you're going through the intake piping if you were to remove basically this pipe here or either these hoses and you get a little bit of oil dripping out i want to say a little bit is is not something to worry too too much but if you were to take this off and it's just dumping oil obviously you have bigger problems you might have a bad oil seal within the turbo with that said um the turbo this is all the plumbing so basically it goes from the turbo uh it goes to the intercooler here and then it goes straight up to your throttle body last but not least this is another one your engine mounts commonly referred to as the dog bone uh so one that mounts the transmission you have a bushing here again rubber tends to fail and then the other one back here which mates uh to the back of the the subframe there so we do have multiple options available for the dog bones be sure to check out our website uh there's there's many options available there performance and oe and with that said let's head back over to the bench all right guys so that about wraps up the diagnostic guide for the 1.8 turbo engine yes i know it was a lot to cover a lot to digest i can promise you that these these engines aren't as bad as i made them out to be uh literally we're going over everything that goes bad on these particular engines uh so take a look at grain salt they're not all going to fail all at once and with preventive maintenance these are items that you could you know check out beforehand and replace before they actually fail so with that said i hope you 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