good day guys you're back with Miracle Max today in the workshop we have a Volkswagen Golf Mark 6 2010 model with a 1.4 L engine in it and it's got a bit of a sticky clutch on occasion I haven't personally experienced it but the customer assures me that it is now I have done several checks previous to that unable to find the thing but I got it to stick once and it's actually in the clutch assembly itself so today we're going to be replacing the clutch the meic then you fix it all he can with a J now that the golf is up in the air we're going to remove the right hand left wheel we might even have an assistant helping me so I've got my Young Apprentice with me right now young finus and he's going to be helping me to undo it so finus can you just press that button in there please nice and oh look at that here we go you're a legend mate get rid of one let's try another one hang on wait wait wait wait okay press oh you Legend you let's try another one where you go good boy another one go get bit more good and one more there you go whoa look at that the wheels come off okay well done thank you very much for your help Mr finus T okay taada wheel now that the wheel is out the road I'm going to remove this particular wheel Arch to give me access to the gearbox itself I decided to remove all the panels this one here and of course there's one that goes the full length of it it's just a series of torx bits no big deal um I'll probably go to the battery next because that's got to get out the road we need a lot of clearance around here both underneath and from the top as you can see there's a fair bit in the road we've got our airbox and we've got our battery that doesn't give us much access from the top so I'm going to remove those but I've got a little trick up my sleeve with the battery I bought this tool some time ago and it's actually really good goes into your OBD2 connector probably can't see where it's changing there um I'll probably turn off the light in a sec but that I've got an extension on it of course and that plugs into my OBD2 connector and at the moment we can see that we have voltage from the battery that's current when it goes to Red that light there we go that has voltage of the battery just get rid of that light a little bit so that tells me that I've got good a good connection to my battery and now I want to hook up my own Supply cuz I'm just about to disconnect the main battery and I can do that by yeah of course my little unlimited power supply batteries and I just hook it up like this so it's fused of course on the positive side there and on the negative side there and we should have we should have power going to it okay so um I'm now quite happy to pull off my battery knowing that I have a supply going to things like my clock and all that sort of stuff so nothing will be adjusted it will stay exactly the same and of course I can tell if I screwed up or not because obviously the clock will go back to zero but it should be all honky Dory I know my battery's charged so it should be all good before we get to our battery I'm going to remove the airbox now it's not too hard there was just a single screw down there he's an allen key there's two knobby bits that you've got to pull out over here and there's one hidden right down underneath and then you've got to sort of lever this section here off uh some ducting that's down here and of course don't forget to take it off your throttle body down here or the air intake into your uh Turbo System here and that should in theory lift off look at that we got some space okay so now I can get onto the battery just keep in mind because I'm powering it through my OBD2 connector these fellas are going to be powered at all times so I'm going to wrap them in rags and make sure that they're fully insulated before I remove the battery or you know disconnect anything and start flopping the leads around okay so I've wrapped the positive lead I don't need to do the negative just the positive lead in one of my old College shirts and of course I put some red tape around it so that I'm aware that this is live at all times and it's fully insulated where anywhere there is metal and uh it's all okay down below so I'm happy that that I can you know work around that and it won't get shorted out and all it takes to get the battery out is there's one hold down clamp here get him right out the road and then in theory the battery should be able to be pulled out of course I've removed my negative one as well over there so fingers crossed using my fully sick Max Muscles it should come out nice then to get that base plate off it's one two and a fellow hidden over here three BTS get my wiring out the road that should come out nicely don't you love it when you say it should come out nicely and it never does it's just catching on stuff that's all bit hard to do one-handed look at the amount of room that we have there beautiful next on our list we need to get rid of these cables now this one here should Simply Be leave it off if I remember correctly I've done these before you should be able to just get behind right behind there and it should just pop off like Doss uh the other block down here you can see that it has a bit of a clip on it bit of clipp there so we need to get under that lift that up and over or might be able to do it from that side without losing the thing of course we don't want to fling it everywhere and it take off which is I'm hoping it won't do not sure that you can see what I'm after all right that's what the clip looks like there that center pin right there that lifts off like that so to get the rest of that linkage assembly off it's not that hard one bolt two bolt and there's a third one tucked away in there with that cable assembly now pushed out of the road we should be able to get to our slave cylinder relatively easily a bit of a pain to get past that bracket but not too bad and of course our starter motor needs to come out there's a bolt here and of course there'll be a bolt down there to get out start a motor can get pulled to one side and just tied out the road with a piece of rope or something like that you don't have to totally disconnect it and pull it out of the vehicle while I'm under the vehicle I've removed this particular connector probably a reverse light switch I have taken this bracket off the starter motor they've got another bolt and stud hidden in behind that and of course then I'll get the other one from up the top but I thought while I was under here I'll undo these fellas here this bloke here as well as uh this Mount um it has a bolt going through here through here and a big sucker that goes through there once you do that of course then it's relying on the uh the gearbox mount right up the top but this is just a stabilization one so the gearbox will probably Rock a little bit but Don't Panic it's it's safe it's being held by that top mount so we can just wiggle that F get that right out the road so we got heaps of room underneath to work on it and other bolts that you could probably undo while you're here just uh as a matter of course be this guy here and this guy here uh not sure if there anything else that you can easily access from underneath I referred to that one and of course this F here on the St St motor looks like a big long uh stud or bolt that goes all the way through so make sure you uh undo that there'll be a long stud that comes out no doubt so that's uh that's not too bad for underneath without getting too dirty um of course we got our uh half shars and and all that sort of Gizmo to do and we've got to mount it on something safe to get it out with the starter motor disconnected I've just turned it around and tied it up against the inner guard just so it's right out the road when we get the gearbox being pulled out it's not going to get caught on anything but we've got uh a lot of clearance there so it's just out the road without me undoing all the wires I've undone the bolts on the inner section of the CV shaft there as you can see and also I've undone the bolts that go onto the um hub assembly or the uh stub axle assembly there just the three there that way I can pull the entire um shaft Hub Etc uh strut assembly and just pivot it out like that some blocks of wood in there leave all the shaft attached to it and that'll give me enough clearance to drop the gearbox down I also undid my sway bar link there there's my sway bar there's my link Rod that goes onto it so I could get this CV shaft right up at the road and as you can see I've tied it to my spring so I've got heaps of room now I can just drag it back without any issues of catching on anything I've pulled off the driver side wheel as well because the drive shaft is of the same design so I'm going to once I come into Focus for you guys as you can see I'm going to undo these bolts as well there'd be no oil leaked or leakage from the gearbox cuz the seals are still attached we can just undo part of our shaft and then pop it back that way yet again I'm using my bike stand at the moment just to hold it in place uh you could probably do it just lift it these gearboxes aren't that hard um but uh just for the sake of the exercise while I'm filming and working by myself um I've just got it Jack jacked up on my bike stand as I said with some nice blocks in place and it should be nice and safe okay I believe all we've got now is three bolts holding it in place uh let's see if I can slide down to show you not much space there one fell right there uh right there there's another fella just right next to him just tucked up under there there's a third bolt over to the side here where my finger should be but there it's not there he is and of course then we've got our Mount that will I remove entire L um I'll take this off here as well as this off here so the mount is entirely out the road won't foul on anything just keep in mind I'm not pulling the gearbox you know totally out I'm just moving it backwards far enough so that I can do my clutch so I can just shove it back that way and just leave it on the stand Etc while I do my clutch and then just popping back into place when it's done also keep in mind you're going to need to support the engine because the engine is uh held up by the rear mount of the gearbox now you know I've gone to a lot of extent over here as you can see to make my job easier I hope it's easier um but uh make sure that you uh chalk up or uh put a uh a floor jack onto your engine to hold the engine in place because that will want to tilt as a result of the gearbox Mount being released I've now lowered my engine Jack as well as my motorbike stand here with uh all the blocks attached to the gearbox so the whole lot is starting to tilt down like this of course I need to separate it and uh probably start around here somewhere I hope that I've got all my bolts out and that should plop backwards and hopefully land nicely onto my nicely assembled uh motorbike stand there just note that these bolts here came out but um they still seem to be attached and you can't get them out so obviously you're going to have to push your gearbox back that way undo the threads a bit more push your gearbox that that way undo your threads a bit more until you get them undone and of course when you put it back in you're going to have to be aware of that too um so you have to line it up properly of course but I'd still say that this has still got a couple of threads attached to it and of course I can't get it get those bolts out because the exhaust is in the road and I don't want to undo the rest so I'll just push the gearbox back that way until those bolts uh unthread themselves nicely I hope just a bit of a fair warning guys I'm not sure if you can see it or not but this is the right- hand drive shaft that goes in and there's a trixy little bolt that's being uh a little bit difficult to get to can you see it I'm not sure if you can I'll just come back a little bit if I can but there's a little bolt there well not a little bolt but a big bolt which caught me out so you've got to approach it from the driver's side and um yeah it's just tucked away behind the drive shaft so just a trick for young players there guys quite easily uh to get caught out and you start reefing on the gearbox and creating all sorts of havoc but there is a bolt just above there as mentioned before these bolts here are quite long they hit against the exhaust pipe and a pain in the botbot so um I've got the gearbox moving backwards of course but it's still attached to those threads so I'm pushing the gearbox back undoing them a little bit pushing the gearbox back undoing them a little bit who thought of that design they're not very smart people obviously an engineer of some description that's just how it is folks just how it is okay after much huffing and puffing I finally got the Beast out remember the issue with it was that it was sticking now I need to figure out why it was sticking whether the thrust bearing was catching on the diaphragm Springs whether the clutch itself is sticky whether there's no lubrication uh on the shaft itself uh look there could be loads of things I need to pull that clutch plate off and have a look have a look at the thrust bearing itself the surface there is quite Rusty isn't it and it's got a massive Groove in it so whether that was actually catching on the uh diaphragm Springs as I mentioned before and also if you have a look here sliding up and down there are some massive big scrape marks now I'm not sure if that's going to be an issue or not uh no seems a lot all right but there's certainly a big scrape mark there so whether the thrust bearing was catching on the um the shaft itself as it was being pushed forward and catching and holding it in place cuz the the uh the the clutch pedal would stay on the floor and wouldn't return so that could be part of it we'll have to have a look once I pull it all apart also the shaft itself is extremely dry um there's no rust on it but a lot of rust everywhere else of course but uh full kit comes with everything so that'll be nice to replace it all also to get the thrust bearing off it comes with the entire Fork there's two little holes one here and one here there's a bracket on the back there and that's what this slides on this slide here becomes part of it you can see those bolts now can't you they have to come off and I believe if this is the correct kit it comes with the fork as well if you're unsure what gearbox you have you can actually have a look right down on the gear selector because it's actually written there um this model came out with a uh what is it a mq2 200 or mq 250 this one here is the mq2 200 as you can see pretty important so that you get the right parts so you've got the clutch plate and pressure plate off but look it actually looks pretty good you know it's certainly dry there's a lot of uh you know not rust but it's very very dry in that shaft there that's for sure um I can't see where it's been sticking at all uh can you like it doesn't look too bad at all to me but uh uh there is a few little shards of metal in there I guess um nothing drastic though and the pressure plate itself isn't too bad uh the surface I was concerned that perhaps the customer was um riding the clutch but look this I mean obviously there's some burn marks on there there's no doubt about that but I can't see that there's uh any major issues and the actual diaphragm itself it's all at the same height although once again there's a lot of rust marks on there and that coincides with the um the bearing that fits on there and of course the fork the assembly that goes across at the pivot Fork look I reckon this is where our problem is because have a look at the rust that's in here and there's a big groove cut into this bearing surface here not only that as I mentioned before this um this yoke or or neck or Shaft or whatever you want to call it um that has a big scrape mark on it you can see it right there and so obviously if that's been not lubricated at all when this pushes forward um so that goes onto there when it's pushed all the way to the ground it could actually catch and then the pedal doesn't want to return so it's uh yeah have a look behind that there see that look at that big scrape mark eh so oh there's a few behind there isn't there um look yeah I reckon and obviously it's it's just on one side so uh this must be a bit cockeyed I guess and um not true to the shaft and so obviously it's been dragging on one side so I reckon that's what the issue is guys um can't see any other major problems there's a bit of grease in that pivot point there and of course where the slave cylinder goes on here is fine but yeah I reckon this is uh this is where the pointy end of the problem is with this particular brand clutch Pro um you can see it on Australian clutch Services blah blah blah Etc but I've done a search for it and as I said there's two for the manual transmission not a not a u double clutch system um but this here is a uh one for the mq 250 as I mentioned or the mq2 200 this one includes the clutch fork and that's the one that we had to unbolt and of course that one seems to be the one that's causing all the problems so yes if you need to know which it is have a look on that lever that'll tell you which one it is mq2 200 or mq 250 then you can order the correct clutch not a sponsor at all but this is the clutch that I'm using a clutch Pro brand and the website's just down here if you're interested and the actual uh part number for this particular vehicle is a kvw 22016 and inside the Box we find obviously a clutch plate put that to one side we've also got a uh thrust bearing but this th thrust bearing is a little bit different in design it's that bolt-on style uh has that sleeve the one that was scored pretty badly the one that was causing the problem I believe for the clutch pedal sticking to the ground um pressure plate of course and these also include a brand new fork with a pivot point as well so yeah it's quite an extensive kit shouldn't be too hard to fit of course while the gearbox is out it's important to make sure that I have no uh oil leak at my front seal and that's fine there and also at my rear main seal now that looks fine in there I have no no issues with leaving it like that so what I need to do now is to clean up my flywheel um to get rid of all the muck that's in there and also uh make it abrasive around there so get some uh sandpaper maybe 80 grit and score all that up to make it a nice clean surface I'm not worried about getting it machined or anything like that simply because of the fact that it's the thrust bearing that was faulty not the clutch there was plenty of meat left on the clutch but hey we've got to do the whole lot together notice some of the fitting instructions there obviously keep everything clean in including your little mitts make sure that you don't have dirty hands but also clean the pressure plate and flywheel surface with some suitable solvent so make sure that that is done and also there's some lubricant that they give you in there as well which can be used on pivot Points and forks and stuff like that to make sure that we have proper lubrication there so here's our old thrust bearing and the fork assembly and they appear to be as one but in actual fact they're not um in the kit we have the uh thrust bearing as you can see and the separate Fork so all you got to do with this guy is sort of turn it around and there's a little Notch and it slides off nicely then it can be put through uh into the fork this bloke over here now this was the fell that caused the problem or the thrust bearing did actually um I might pull the old one apart because it was had big scrape marks on the side didn't it so all you got to do is pop that through there get your thrust bearing and there's a couple of little notches on the side here that you can turn around till it lines up there we go that'll go down but also there's two little Clips there's one here and one here and they lock into here and here so once I get that around turn that down like that and oops I was way out 90° out I was then that should push into place like that of course make sure that you lubricate the inside of the thrust bearing and of course that's what the issue has been here on the old one look how dry and horrible and Rusty it is inside there that's the issue and that's uh caused this sort of scoring on the side here and of course that would or the thrust bearing would jam on this sleeve here and of course cause the fork to hold in place and if we have a look here you can see that the thrust bearing is actually worn away in comparison to the new one this one here is flat as attack so maybe the thrust bearing was starting to seize as well I'm not sure other places to lubricate are this Pivot Point over here and this Pivot Point over here and maybe just a fraction on the spline where the clutch goes in and out as well I've now given the flywheel a good clean down wash down with some brake clean then I have scored the surface as you can see and then I've wiped it down once again with some nice brake clean and a clean rag ready for the pressure plate clutch plate assembly to go on next this type of pressure plate appears to be a balance style which means it only goes on one way now what I've done is is uh you know you can keep spinning it around till it lines up and it's a trick for young players cuz you could could start to bolt it up and things jam and you get it wrong and you end up in all sorts of grief but what I've done is I've pulled out the clutch plate that was in there a second ago and I've just put on the pressure plate temporarily and I've turned it around and around and around till these pins lined up so there should be three pins 1 2 three and all the bolt holes have lined up as well I've just got it dangling there with a single bolt up the top but just to make my life a little bit easier what I have done is just put a texture Mark where they line up and now I can bolt it up accordingly knowing with confidence uh once I put my clutch plate back in of course um that it should line up perfectly also another trick for putting the clutch plate in I've just got a long socket deep socket here and I'm taking that through my clutch and putting it into that spigot or bush assembly in the center to make sure that everything lines up proper that goes in like that and of course once once my pressure plate is put into place uh allowing for Gravity go up and down about halfway tighten it up job should be done just keep in mind that the clutch plate will only go in one way this is a stepped area and on the new clutch plate this stepped area will have gearbox side only so as you can see it's offset there and that goes into the pressure plate the flat side goes to the flywheel the tightening torque for our clutch pressure plate across here is 13 new M if it's an M7 bolt then it's 20 new M after you've correctly torqued up the pressure plate and this hopefully is all centered it should be able to just be slid out nicely like that okay you can see where it went into the bottom uh Bush assembly right on the end there there's a little Mark and that's gone through the spline nicely so I shouldn't have too much issue putting the gearbox back in is a little bit of wigglish jiggled that I'll show you shortly now part of the problem putting this gearbox in is this guy over here he just doesn't want to go past this chassis member over here so what you got to do is you've got to sort of tilt it maybe down a bit so twist the whole gearbox down and then tilt it backwards like that come up into it and then tilt it around to get it past once it's past that part there it should go past here no problems and it should uh then go into our gearbox or onto the back of the engine there at least so I can't really use my lift because that doesn't allow me to get a bit of a little bit of uh Twist and Shout and uh you know I've got to do that so I might have to sit it on my gut my ample gut and then I can maneuver it with my knees and arms Etc one other thing too don't forget to clean your spline there and with a little tiny bit of Grease that's left just whack a tiny bit of grease on there so it can slide into the spline not too much not too much cuz you don't want it flick out everywhere but just just a dab well I had planned to balance it on my stomach and push it up with my knees and all that sort of stuff I'm getting too old for this stuff so what I've done is tilt the gearbox sideways like this to get the uh the diff assembly or the final drive assembly past and once it's past that chassis rail over there I should be able to twist it back this way I'll show you downstairs it's on quite an angle isn't it it's not straight ahead where the vehicle is or where the shaft should go in gearbox Etc but I've got it really cockeyed and down at the back it's laying down at the back once that's uh got past that Chassy rail over here then I can straighten it up and nudge it into place but at the moment uh it appears to be going sort of in kind of maybe um we'll see what happens I'm not sure I'd attempt this without any lifting equipment by myself but I'm slowly getting it in there the main thing is to get this drive shaft over that way and downstairs we need to get that final drive assembly past that uh I don't know whatever you call the thing it's part of the chassis rail I assume that bloke there once it's past that then I can twist the whole thing back into place now that I've managed to get the gearbox up high enough it's on of course quite a tilt um and I've run out of uh lift on my Jack so I'm just going to lever it up with some blocks and uh just push it into place so it's still on quite a tilt as you can imagine but I'm getting there and of course you can see the uh the output shaft there is hitting against the the pressure plate so the whole gearbox needs to go that way after much wiggling and jiggling I've got this up high enough to get my final drive assembly past that Chassy rail assembly thingy um so it's just a matter of tilting it up and of course keep in mind that the engine itself is jacked up so use that to your advantage go up and down with the engine to meet the gearbox so yeah the rest of it is uh just twist and turn until it pops into place all sounds good doesn't it you can also use a Philips head screwdriver to push through the bolt hole in the gearbox itself into the threaded section into the block and that way it'll give you leverage and help you to line it up correctly one thing that's been giving me loads of grief is this guy over here it's the output shaft for the driver's side now it's catching on the Fly well it was before I had to get over this side and just Reef it across with a a lever and uh that's all honky Dory now the gear boox slid in nicely and I've got uh two screwdrivers in place um to make it easier to slide them in so one down the bottom one up the top um it should slide in that's what I've been saying all along isn't it it should slide in nicely now folks take my word for it remember those two bolts that I couldn't undo and they just had to sit here in place well just to give you an indication of how confident I feel about the gearbox going in these are bolting in just nice so I've got both of those in yes it's a little bit cockeyed but now I can jack up the back um because these can pivot on these two bolts once the back goes up I just push him up with my lift once that goes up then it should slide into place the gearbox is now in place of put all the main players in the big bolts that go around there happy with all that um not sure if I'm going to mount it first uh because you know it's hard to work on underneath with all the stands and hoists Etc jacks or put some of this stuff on first I might put some of this stuff on first and then I can uh lift it up to the Mount there and then all that stuff will be done of course I got Mya motor to do down here as well don't forget that and that bracket big bracket that goes on uh and of course don't forget there's an earth strap that goes on there too the clutch slave cylinder together with all the linkages have now been bolted into place I've actually checked the clutch uh put my foot on the clutch pedal and it operates beautifully so I know that I've got it right the starter motor is now in place together with that big fat Earth strap that goes onto this top bolt and downstairs we have this bracket that is held in by the starter motor bolt with a stud on the end of it also don't forget this uh it might be a reverse light switch I don't think it's a speed sensor whatever it is clip this little fell back into place the gearbox Mount is now put into place this little guy here three bolts around there another two Just Jack the whole gearbox up make sure it's aligned correctly and make sure that this is nice and square don't allow it to twist that will um change the stress on the mount there so Mount is done just before I button it up and put all the covers on Etc I have put in the half shafts that's one half shaft there as well as the left hand half shaft that's all done together with these bolts on the lower control arm 1 2 3 on either side on the left hand side only the sway bar nut this link Rod here I undid that nut so that's all tored up correctly so I'm actually just going to drive it on my um quick Jacks for now just to make sure everything's okay before I put all the covers on but I'm pretty happy that I've got everything done right of course before I do any of that I had to put in the battery tray as well as the battery all the connections and then snug him into bed then of course the airbox by using our battery power saver thingy we were able to retain the time and no doubt all the other goodies that are held in the ecus 345 there pretty close to 345 there okay let's start it up and give her a bell hopefully we can get the wheels to rotate before the traction control Cuts in let's fire it up see what it does okay let's put her in gear in theory I should be turning my wheels second gear third gear fourth gear traction control of course but uh hopefully I got some Wheels to rotate then clutch feels nice though for the final part of it all I've got to do is put my under trays on and of course Wheels both side and get ready for a full-on road test but uh just that little uh quick test on the quick Jacks seemed to indicate that everything was honky Dory the clutch felt really really good after a thorough road test I'm happy with the results the clutch feels bimo I must admit this is not the funnest clutch I've ever done bit of a wiggle jiggle angle here angle there but it finally went in the reason for a sticky clutch was this fell here the thrust bearing yolk assembly and as you can see I think it's here somewhere can't quite see there and there there's some scrape marks on there isn't there and that was causing the thrust bearing to stick and hold it in place causing the pedal to stay down on the floor but fortunately we were able to replace that component together with the entire clutch kit and the customer should be happy with the results if you're happy with the results and the video and you haven't subscribed to the Channel please do so give it a like and feel free to comment down below don't forget about that notification Bell you don't want to miss any future videos also don't forget about our Facebook and Instagram Pages the details will be down below so until next time guys this is Miracle Ma signing off I will catch you later [Music]