The Art of Tourbillon Watches

Introduction

• Tourbillon (T): A complex and expensive mechanism found in high-end watches.
• Cost Example: A watch with this mechanism sold for $5.8 million at a Christie's auction in 2023.

Purpose of Tourbillon

• Original Use: To counteract the effects of gravity on vertical pocket watches for improved accuracy.
• Modern Use: No improvement in performance for wristwatches, but adds significant cost due to the complexity and craftsmanship.

Mechanism Explained

• Components:
  • Balance wheel attached to a coiled hairspring.
  • Escape wheel advances toothed at regular intervals to create the ticking sound.
  • In T, the escapement is inside a rotating metal cage.
• Function: The additional rotation countered gravity in pocket watches.
• Current Relevance: Primarily aesthetic and adds to the watch's exclusivity and art value.

Complexity and Cost

• Why So Expensive?: Complexity and craftsmanship; can increase a watch's price by $20k, $30k, or even $100k.
• Craftsmanship by Remy Cools:
  • 26-year-old independent watchmaker in France.
  • Dedicated 3 years to crafting a collection of 36 tourbillon watches.

Production Process

• Number of Parts: Around 200 parts in total, 50 of which are for the tourbillon.
• Precision: Components must be precise down to a thousandth of a millimeter.
• Materials and Cutting: Brass and steel, automated machining.
• Heat Treatment: Includes quenching and tempering to reinforce the metal.
• Manual Crafting: Cutting teeth into gears, quality checks, and adjustments.

Expertise and Training

• Educational Background: Graduates from Lycée Edgar Faure in France.
• Work Experience: Worked with big-name Swiss watch companies before starting own brand.
• Chamfering Process: Time-consuming; each edge is beveled for aesthetics and reduced friction.

Final Assembly and Testing

• Assembly: Piece components together using specialized tools.
• Balance and Hairspring: Checked and cut to the correct length.
• Final Checks: Control tests, sealing, waterproofing, and dust inspection.

Market and Customer Appeal

• Art and Craftsmanship: Seen as pieces of art despite no improvement in accuracy.
• Collector's Value: Often highlighted with a sapphire crystal; appeals to those who value artistry.
• Retailer's Role: Educate customers about the value of such independent watchmakers.
• Example: Highly detailed