so you want to start building gunpla but maybe you don't know where to start but that's okay i don't blame you after all where does one even begin with such a massive hobby with so much misinformation and so many misconceptions surrounding the hobby it's very easy for beginners to be turned away and intimidated at first glance but that's why i'm here to clear up any misconceptions or questions you might have about this hobby if you're looking to learn about gunpla stick around because i'm about to turn your intimidation into excitement my name is yusi gundam and welcome to the ultimate beginner's guide to gunpla now before we get started there's a couple of things i wanted to touch on i'll try not to say too much but these are important so bear with me first off this is not a video on how to customize your gun plug in this video we will only be covering the bare basics of what gunpla is how to get into the hobby and how to snap together your very first gunpla kit so if you're looking for a tutorial on how to panel line or how to paint your kits or do custom scribing or anything like that you're not gonna find it here and i'm sorry this is a guide for the absolute beginner now secondly this video will be heavily categorized information will be separated into digestible chunks and if you scroll down there will be a pinned comment with a table of contents including time stamps to each category this way if you need something specific answered you don't have to watch the whole video you can just skip right to the section you need that being said if you enjoy the video and you find it informative please consider leaving a like and subscribing to the channel anyways that's all i've got to say before we get started so let's get right into it now there's a few misconceptions i've heard floating around from time to time from people discussing gunpla who don't really know anything about the hobby and no i don't mean people spreading misinformation to try to lead people astray i just mean more like misconceptions that newcomers may have that might deter them from wanting to get into gunplay the first one i always hear about is do you need to paint gunplug i can't tell you how many times i've suggested that somebody get into gunpla and i get but i don't want to build gun plug because i don't want to have to paint my model kits well then you're in luck because you don't have to paint them in fact painting your gun flickets is usually considered customizing or going the extra mile the plastic parts for gunpla kits are already pre-colored for you aside from maybe some fine details and some possible color correcting stickers what you'll usually get straight out of the box is more or less a color accurate model kit now of course if you do want to go that extra mile you definitely can paint your model kits and a lot of people do but it's not required misconception number two would be isn't gunpla hard to build and to that i would say no it's actually very straightforward and simple even for a first timer brand new beginner as long as you can follow labels and picture instructions you will be fine generally there's absolutely no glue required for assembly and i only say generally because i think there's some random old old kits that may require some glue here and there but for the most part everything just snaps together assembly is almost always easy and once you know what you're looking at the instructions are easy to follow as well so don't be worried or intimidated about having to assemble some super difficult complex thing when in reality it's more akin to building a lego set you just have to cut the parts out yourself now the last misconception i would like to clear up is doesn't it cost a lot of money well yes but also technically no it's all up to you on how much you want to spend and actually a lot of the kits that you'd probably want to start off as a beginner can be found for around 10 to 20 dollars however if you're like me and you absolutely get sucked into the hobby you may find yourself spending a lot more money than you originally envisioned trust me my wallet's been a lot lighter ever since i found out about this hobby so that's about it for the misconceptions or at least the ones that i commonly hear the main thing i'd like everyone to take away from this is basically if you're nervous or intimidated about starting to build gunpla don't be i promise you it's not as bad as you think and almost everyone can do it now if you are a true true beginner one question on your mind might be what is gunplug well to me as the thing that keeps me broken could probably be classified as an actual addiction at this point but seriously gunpla is the official name given by bandai to their line of plastic model kits based around the series mobile suit gundam and if you don't know what mobile suit gundam is it's a tv show with its first series that premiered in 1979 and it's about space and death and wow cool robot anyways nobody really cares about that back to gunpla so the word gunpla itself is a portmanteau of gundam and plamo plamo being shorthand for plastic model so essentially gunplum means gundam plastic model so to summarize if it's a model kit of something from bubble suit gundam it's gunplug it doesn't even necessarily have to be made by bandai sure that is their official term for their line of kits but there is gunpla made by third-party sellers such as brands like supernova people might argue the semantics of whether a third party kit can be considered gunpla but you don't need to concern yourself with that all you need to know is that gunpla means gundam plastic model [Music] so it looks like you've got your first gun plucket in front of you huh well i bet you're pretty excited to tear into it and go to town huh but uh where are your tools you are going to use the right tools right uh hey what are you doing no stop what are you doing you can't just pull the parts off the runners with your grubby little hands stop stop start over [Music] all right so seriously now you do need some tools before you can get started working on gunpla if we're being extremely basic you only need one all you really need to assemble your first gunpla kit is a pair of hobby cutters these are commonly referred to as side cutters or nippers this is the tool you'll be using to cut parts off of runners and if you don't know what runners are don't worry i will be explaining it later now people might be wondering what brand should i go with which side cutter should i pick out well if you're just starting out it doesn't really matter as long as they look something like this of course cheaper cutters will not do as good of a job as expensive ones but if you're just starting you're just looking to get the job done don't sweat it i still to this day personally use a pair of generic cutters and they work just fine of course if you do want something high end and you're looking for the best cutters you can get you could look into something like godhand because those are usually regarded as some of the best ones you can get however like i said if you're a total beginner don't sweat it just make sure you have a pair of one of these on hand now one other tool that i would recommend that you have on hand is either an x-acto knife or some form of sandpaper or files basically what these will be used for is to clean up the surface of the part after you cut it off of the runner this process is called nub removal but i will explain that in a later segment all you need to have handy as a basic beginner is a pair of side cutters and either an x-acto knife or some sandpaper i also personally like to have a cutting mat under anything i'm working on so now that you know what tools you need it's time to pick out a kit to work on but you might be asking where do you buy gunpla from don't worry i'll tell you everything you need to know right now [Music] [Applause] so you're in the market to buy gunplup but the question is where do you get it from maybe you've looked around and haven't really found anything maybe you've even looked at a few local hobby shops with no luck but don't worry you still have plenty of options available to you the vast majority of your gun plus shopping will probably have to be done online of course there are some physical retailers that do stock gunpla if you're in the west like me specifically america you have to remember that gunpla is a niche within an already pretty niche hobby over in japan they have gunpla in 7-elevens but over here the pickings are often pretty slim as far as physical sales go however certain places like barnes and noble and even some game stops do stock gunpla albeit in small amounts i'm personally fortunate enough to live next to a couple of hobby stores that stock a ton of it but i know that's not the case for everyone so if you are like most people and have no physical retailers or very limited supply near you here are some places you can go to find excellent gun plus selections online some of the largest trusted names in gunplus shopping are hobby link japan usa gundam store gundam planet mandarake and you can even get gunpla on amazon those are the main places that many people tend to buy their kits from however there are still a few smaller businesses here and there that carry gone plateau and thanks to developments from bandai as of late if you're a westerner like me from america you can now get stuff from the premium bandai website but hold on what is premium bandai well it's basically [Music] premium bandai often shortened to p bandai is the name given to a selection of kits only available on the premium bandai website up until recently these kits were only available inside of japan but as i said earlier bandai is making a move to bring p bandai to the west p bandai kits often have a very limited production run and are therefore much more rare than standard bandai kits p bandai is often times recolored but sometimes they are brand new kits entirely although these kits can be really hard to get your hands on don't be discouraged because they don't make up the majority of bandai's product selection so now we know all about how to buy gunplup but now we need to figure out what to buy when you're thinking about buying a kit one of the most important things to know about and consider is what grade the kit is but what exactly is a grade what do grades mean well in my case growing up they meant no video games for the rest of the week but what about when they're applied to gunpla kits so what are grades well good question in fact this is something that i wish i knew a lot more about when i first got into gunplur i didn't know anything about what any of the terminology meant i just went online and looked at a bunch of stuff and i was like huh that looks cool i don't know what any of that means but it's probably not important and that's the story of how i ended up with the high grade banshee norn unicorn destroy mode as my very first gunpla kit the moral of the story here is don't be like me make informed purchases and decisions so grades what are they how do they work well gunplug grades to put it simply is a labeling system that refers to differences in scale quality and usually price knowing the grade of a kit will give you a general idea of what to expect out of the box the grade will always be clearly labeled on the box and usually in the item description online once you know what you're looking at it's really easy you'll have no problem finding the labels and distinguishing between them in no time the typical grades you'll see on gunpla are high grade real grade master grade and perfect grade however there are plenty of other grades that are not as common but they are still worth talking about now don't get me wrong it might seem like there's a whole lot at first and it may seem even a bit overwhelming but trust me it's really not that bad i'll be going over the aspects and differences between each individual grade in the next segment which is right now now just as a precursor to this section i'd like to say a couple of things first of all try to keep in mind that a kit's grade is not necessarily indicative of its overall quality now i hate to say that there are bad kits because really there are no bad kits every kit has issues that can be fixed if you're willing to put the time into them but out of the box there definitely are kits that have more or less flaws than others just try to remember that maybe just because the kit has a master grade logo on it doesn't necessarily mean you're going to have a great time with it i strongly encourage you to research online any kit that you're thinking about buying especially as a newcomer another thing to remember is that scale is not the same as size gunplug grades basically have their own scales assigned to each one for example high grades are relegated to 1 144 scale but they are definitely not the same size in fact some of the largest kits ever made have been 1 144th scale high grades so to summarize grades are not the end all bl indicator of overall quality and scale is not indicative of size with these two things in mind let's move on to what makes these grades all different and unique from each other and yes i'm gonna be reusing the evangelion music piss off leave me alone so what makes a high grade a high grade well if you see an hg logo on the box it's a high grade seriously though bandai's high grade line of gunpla are model kits that are relegated to 1 144th scale these kits are generally the cheapest and are usually the quickest and fastest to build high grades are what i would personally recommend that you start off on as a beginner i'll elaborate more on why i think that way later in the video but for now let's just stick to talking about the grades these kits do tend to be lacking in the color separation department so to mitigate that usually you'll see a lot of color correcting stickers on these kits and although putting stickers on kits is not bad if you don't feel like dealing with them you can always paint them if you so choose prices for your average high grade kit will usually range around the 10 to 40 dollar mark not factoring in shipping and handling if you're buying online now one last thing something that does trip up some new people when it comes to high grades is you'll sometimes see different looking high grade logos some will say hguc some will say hgac hg double o stuff like that the gundam universe contains multiple timelines and anything after the hg label such as numbers or letters is just indicating what series or universe that this kit comes from it can be pretty helpful if you're trying to sort through and look for kits just from a specific series or timeline but it's nothing to get tripped up over master grades master grades are a lot of people's favorite line because for most people they hit that sweet spot of size articulation detail and a great price point usually for what you get now don't get me wrong the master grade line is far from perfect however there are some real gems to be found in there master grades are relegated to a 1 100 scale they tend to be a lot more color accurate than high grades they have better detail and usually better articulation you may see some color correcting stickers here and there on much older kits master grade kits usually come with some form of decals and markings as well if you're not familiar with these don't worry we'll be covering them later master grade prices are really all over the place but if you had to narrow it down they are usually between 30 and 100 now for the people looking to move up a grade if you're usually building high grades and you may be intimidated by the master grade line i can tell you right now don't worry master grades really are not that much more complicated to build than your average high grade they just contain more parts for their inner frames and to have better color separation one last thing to mention about the master grade line is there are a few subcategories that fit into this one of the main subcategories is mastergrade 2.0 if you see anyone or hear anyone talking about this just know that basically it means a kit was out before and it basically got a remaster 2.0 master grades are just more up-to-date versions of their older counterparts now the other important master grade subcategory is verka kits if you're at all involved in the gunpla community chances are you'll see a lot of people talking about verka kids what these are is essentially a line of master grade gunpla designed by mecha designer hajime katoki that's where the title comes from because viraka is short for version katoki verka kits are just redesigns by katoki based on what he thinks they would look like should they exist in real life or be more grounded in reality virgo kits tend to have a ton of detail and are pretty notorious for how many water slide decals they come with as well again we'll talk about decals later but be warned they can be pretty prone to idiosyncratic issues so just be careful also something else noteworthy about vertcotkits is they only usually come out with a new one once per year so basically if you see verkha in the name of a kit or on the box it's just a katoki redesign so what exactly makes a real grade what it is well to put it simply real grades are like the love child of high grades and master grades and what i mean by that is real grades are all 1 144 scale just like a high grade however they have an inner frame and detail comparable to master grades older real grade kits also came with a mostly pre-assembled inner frame called the ms joint inner frame however bandai has been moving away from the ms joint because it was known to loosen up over time and cause a lot of stability issues with older real grades so if you're looking for a really good real grade building experience i would definitely recommend to you that you go look for newer kits now that's not to say that the older kids are terrible but just like with any other line of gunpla the farther back you go the more issues you may tend to run into with the kit just due to the age of the kit and the dated engineering from that time something else to keep in mind is that real grades feature a ton of small tiny little parts but due to all these parts they have really good color separation they also usually come with decals and metallic stickers the price range for real grades usually ranges around 30 to 40 dollars so a bit more expensive than your average high grade but kind of in the ballpark of your lower priced master grade perfect grades these are generally considered to be the best of the best when it comes to gunplup they usually feature the most surface detail articulation and gimmicks some of them even come with their own led lighting kits which are super cool perfect grades come in at a 1 60th scale and they are usually some of the most expensive kits that you can find ranging from about 160 to 250 the selection of perfect grade kits is pretty limited but what we do have currently is pretty damn good however despite literally having the title perfect in their name perfect grades are not always well perfect i'd just say like any other gunplaket before you buy do a little bit of research because they can be prone to being a bit quirky so now the grades we just went over are to me what i would consider the main grades when you're first starting out or what you're going to see most commonly however these are definitely not the only grades out there there are quite a few other ones that you'll notice when you start shopping around so we'll go over each of those real quickly in case you run into those and are curious on what they mean and just because i didn't lump these in with the first few grades doesn't make the ones we're about to talk about bad by any means they just aren't necessarily as popular or common the first grade or fg line of gunpla contains kits that are super cheap and extremely simple the first incarnation of this gunplaw line came out in 1999 and features three kits that are molded in only one single color however in 2007 there was a second incarnation of the first grade line featuring four new kits all from gundam double o and this time they were molded in different colors first grades really aren't commonly sold in many places but if you can get your hands on one you should be able to find them for about ten dollars or less advanced grade or a g is a grade of gunpla that started in 2011 and it's basically exactly the same thing as first grade except ag features only kits from the mobile suit gundam age series just like the first grade kits these are 1 144th scale incredibly cheap incredibly simple kits and unlike the 1999 run of first grade kits these are molded in multiple colors the advanced grade line ran from 2011 to 2012 and features a total of 24 kits these kits just like first grade have very limited detail and very limited articulation each advanced grade kit also comes with a microchip to be used in the gundam gauging arcade game however if you're like me i don't really think you're gonna find much use for that these kits can also be found for around under 10 or less [Applause] have you ever wanted a high grade the size of a master grade well then the 1 100 line is for you these kits are as the name suggests in 1 100 scale they are to put it bluntly basically upsized high grades this grade is also commonly referred to as no grade or non-grade however this is not really an official term despite the fact that it's not official it is still pretty commonly and widely used there are some kits in this line that are also in 1 60 scale however that is pretty rare and i doubt you'll ever really come across those if you want to get your hands on a 1 100th kit the price is generally in the ballpark of 20 to 50 dollars the reborn 100 line goes hand in hand with the 1 100th line in the sense that it is the rebirth of the 1 100th line bandai has more or less turned the line into somewhat of a home for more niche kits that may not have sold as well as full-blown master grade releases the quality is getting noticeably better as time goes on and they're definitely better quality than most of the 1 100 kits that you'll see out there but reborn 100 is still going through some growing pains the kits are all still in 1 100th scale and the quality lies between a high grade and a master grade you can usually pick one of these kits up for about 30 to 60 dollars mega size kits are gigantic coming in at 1 48th scale these things will tower over even your perfect grades hands down these will be some of the largest kits in your collection they generally have the same build complexity and roughly the same quality and articulation as their high grade counterparts but what they lack in those departments they make up for with some really sharp sculpted details and a ton of surface detail there's no doubt that the main feature of these kits are their sheer size unfortunately the mega size line as a whole only has six different kits but if you want to get your hands on them they should only cost about 80 to 100 however depending on where you buy from they are a little bit more rare nowadays so they may be a little bit more expensive than that sd or super deformed is a line of gunpla featuring chibi style reimaginings of various mobile suits from different gundam series they aren't exact recreations of the mobile suits themselves so they can't really be put in an exact scale however on average they do stand about five inches tall they generally are pretty quick and easy to assemble but they do tend to heavily rely on a lot of color correcting stickers stickers aren't the worst thing in the world but when there's a ton of them that is a good thing to keep in mind you can generally find sd gunpla for around ten dollars [Music] so now that we know all about every single gunpla grade how do we know which one to start with as a true beginner well my recommendation to you plain and simple is start with a high grade kit and there are a few reasons for that for example high grades provide you with the smallest possible barrier to entry into gunplup they're very easy to get your hands on very simple and quick to build and are usually the cheapest kits out there so if you end up building a high grade for your first kit you'll have a simple fun and quick first experience however if you don't end up liking it then it's okay because you haven't spent a lot of time or money on it and if you don't like it it's totally okay because remember it's not for everyone all that matters is if you're interested that you give it a fair try also i know that first impressions are very important however you shouldn't let your first impression of gunpla dictate how you feel towards the hobby as a whole if you happen to end up with a kit that has a lot of flaws as your first kit don't be discouraged because there are definitely a ton of good ones out there and not all of them are like that just remember give it a fair try and don't let one bad experience ruin an otherwise really great hobby for you before you get into building gunpla there's a few things that you really ought to keep in mind the first thing to keep in mind is that it requires a lot of patience building gunplug can sometimes be a long and even tedious process especially as you start to get into larger and more intricate kits just remember to be patient and take your time and it will pay off in the end now assembling gunpla is not necessarily hard however you can have some moments of confusion if you lose focus make sure you're always paying very close attention to the instructions because there can be subtle details that are very important again this ties into just taking your time and making sure that you do everything right this will save you the hassle of having to deal with parts you placed in wrong or potentially even breaking some more fragile parts and while it's not that common it can still happen however again just take your time don't rush and focus and you won't have these problems another big thing to know is if you start feeling bored there's no shame in just putting down the kitten coming back to it later building gun plus should be fun and relaxing it should be something that you want to do it should not feel like a chore trust me you're not going to have any fun putting kids together if you're feeling burnt out while doing it just take your time do it at your own pace and again like i said earlier if you run into moments of frustration worst case scenario have a bad time with the kit overall don't let it shape your opinion on the hobby as a whole just make sure to focus take your time take breaks as you need to try your best not to get discouraged and of course most importantly try to have fun [Music] all right i think i've talked enough so let's get straight to the point on how to build your very first gunpla kit get out your tools get out your kit i don't necessarily recommend this particular kit for your first one this is just the one that i had laying around and now we open up the box and uh oh yeah i forgot i already started working on this guy and never finished him but it'll work for demonstration purposes i promise now upon opening the box you're gonna be greeted by a bunch of stuff i'm gonna really quickly explain all the terminology of everything that you need to know based on the stuff that's in the box and stuff you're gonna hear throughout the building process this way i can just talk about it freely and you'll understand what i'm talking about or be able to come back to this and use as a point of reference if you don't understand anything so first off we have the manual pretty straightforward we have these sheets of plastic which contain all the parts these are called runners these tiny pieces of plastic connecting the runner to the parts are known as gates and these little pieces of plastic that are left over after cutting a part off the runner are known as nubs nub marks or stress marks you'll also commonly either get stickers decals or a mix of both with your kit as far as stickers go we have foil stickers and decals usually come in three types sticker style dry transfer and water slide i'll explain the differences between these and how to apply each type of marking in a little bit don't worry but for now we've got our box opened and we've got everything out in front of us in a pile and this is where it comes time to make sure that we organize our workspace having an organized workspace leads to a more streamlined building process and a less stressful experience overall i personally like to start by setting the manuals and any markings or decals off to the side each runner has its own letter assigned to it and can be organized in alphabetical order i personally have my own runner organizer which helps save space and keep these organized i really recommend that you either buy these or make one for yourself because it does save a lot of time and space now that we have our workspace organized let's open up the manual and take a look the first thing you'll probably notice is you're gonna see a lot of japanese in here but don't worry you don't have to be able to read a word of it to understand what's going on all of the actual assembly instructions are conveyed to you in clear picture instruction format now i won't be walking you through the entire process of building this kit because well let's face it we'd be here all day but i will show you what you need to look for in the manual in order to be able to cut out the right parts and put them together so let's jump right back into where i left off on this kit and i'll show you my process of locating a part cutting it out cleaning it up and attaching it to another part so right here in the manual we can see two clearly labeled pieces the letter and number labels next to the parts will always indicate the runner first and the part number second so this part is e117 so we have to go find runner e1 and locate part number 17. and there it is so now we just need to take our hobby cutters put them right on that gate there and you're going to want to make sure that you leave a little bit of plastic attached to the part when you make the cut try not to make your first cut flush with the surface of the part because you're just gonna stress the plastic and leave a visible mark after cutting it out at the gate we're left with a nub on the part this is where your x-acto knife or sandpaper that i mentioned earlier will come into play i personally like to use the x-acto knife for now and what i do is i just make sure i'm using a sharp blade and make small cuts to slowly remove the nub now you have to be careful for two reasons here one because you can hurt yourself x-acto knives are very very sharp especially when brand new always cut away from yourself and always make sure that your fingers are out of the way i cut myself pretty badly on my thumb when trying to work on the real great talkies and i don't want that to happen to anybody else the second thing you have to be careful of is when cutting the nub away you can potentially leave a crevice or a little bit of a valley instead of a flush surface so just try to be gentle and don't cut too deep the second way and probably a more reliable way of cleaning up nubs and getting a smooth finish is using sandpaper make sure to use multiple grits of sandpaper i'd recommend starting at 600 going to 800 and then finishing off around 2000 or higher make sure to take your time and do not apply too much pressure you can also wet sand to make your sandpaper last longer and have a smoother finish overall now make sure to repeat everything that we just did for all the rest of the parts that are shown in the step and follow the assembly process as shown and remember you won't need any glue it's all snap fit now as you're building you may notice a few strange symbols and i'll explain to you what each of those means now just keep in mind you don't have to memorize these and if you forget what some of these mean when you see them come up it's not the end of the world it's not going to prevent you from building anything they're just kind of there to help you along over time you'll be able to recognize what these mean upon first glance but in case you run into these in your manual of the first kit that you build don't be tripped up by them so the explanations for each symbol are as follows this one means to apply a foil sticker here if it's not labeled with a number it'll usually be labeled with a japanese character if it does have a japanese character you don't have to be able to read what it says all you have to do is just match it with the same character on the sticker sheet this symbol means the exact same thing except for decals instead of stickers this symbol means to place parts on opposite sides and is usually shown next to two part numbers this one means that a similar part will be placed on the other side and is usually shown only next to one part number this symbol means to pay attention to which way your part is facing this symbol means to be careful when tightening screws but you don't really have to worry about this because modern kits don't use screws or at least most of them don't this symbol means that the part has some excess plastic that needs to be cut off make sure to look at very carefully what it tells you to cut off because i've made the mistake of accidentally cutting off a connection point instead of the excess plastic this symbol means to repeat the step however many times it says in the symbol this one means that you're going to be connecting this part first and this one means that you're going to be connecting this part last this one means to rotate the part the amount of degrees shown in the symbol this symbol indicates optional parts and finally this symbol indicates a part on the opposite side that will move in the same direction so now that you know how to read the manual find parts cut them out clean them up and read all of the symbols really the last thing i have to touch on for you guys today is decals and stickers of course beyond this there is an entire world of customizing your gun plug trust me there's all sorts of crazy stuff like painting weathering panel lining conversion kits etc however i won't be going into any of that today because first of all the video is already long enough as it is and this guide is for the absolute beginner as i said before we're only going over the basics of putting together your first snap built kit which is the foundation for getting into everything else now there's nothing wrong with being just a person who snap builds their kits but i do encourage you to start getting more creative and start customizing your gunplug once you're comfortable with putting them together so stickers decals how do they work are they complicated no they're not they're actually really easy like i said earlier we have a few types so i'll be going over those briefly right now foil stickers are the most basic kind and they're exactly that stickers to apply them i like to personally peel them off the sheet with the tip of my x-acto knife gently set them into place and push them down with either my fingers or something like a cotton swab now for the different types of decals i won't be going too in depth but i will explain the differences and how to generally apply each one sticker style decals are exactly that they're stickers take them off the sheet and stick them on wherever they go and that's about all there is to it to those dry transfer decals are a little bit more complicated you'll know their dry transfer because they'll come on a clear sheet against waxed paper cut out the decal you want to apply tape it down onto the model wherever you want it to be applied with the side that was facing the wax paper face down onto the model then apply some force with something like your fingernail or ideally some kind of blunt object and rub back and forth this will transfer the decal onto the model kit keep rubbing until the decal is fully transferred now for water slides these will come on a blue sheet of paper you'll see these a lot with verka kits and some other master grades and perfect grades now to apply these get yourself a small bowl of water warm water works best but don't worry if the water becomes room temperature or a little cold it won't really affect it negatively cut out the decal you want to use let it soak in the water for a little bit pull it out put it on the model kit and use a cotton swab to slide the decal off the backing paper you can then slide it around back and forth a little bit to get it into position if it dries too quickly and you don't get it positioned exactly how you like you can add a little bit more water to slide it around some more once you get it in the position you like take a dry cotton swab and roll it back and forth over the top to squeeze out any water trapped underneath the decal now we know how to put on all types of decals but how do we know where to put them well if your kit comes with markings or decals there will almost always be diagrams in the back of your manual showing the model kit and where each individual decal or sticker goes so there's no guesswork involved you don't have to worry about freehanding it just follow the manual and you'll be fine with that being said that's basically all the information you're going to need to be able to successfully put together your first gunpla kit all in all to have the best possible experience when building your first gun plug just remember to take your time read the manual stay organized use the proper tools to cut your parts out and clean up the nubs and most importantly have fun so that's gonna just about do it for the ultimate beginner's guide to getting into gunpla if you made it all the way to the end thank you so much for watching if you enjoyed the video and you found it informative i would really appreciate it if you would consider leaving a like and subscribing to the channel for more content like this and if you do subscribe make sure to hit that bell so you get notified of every time that i upload if you felt like i left anything out of this video or if you have a question that was unanswered by this video leave a comment below and i'll do my best to reply and answer it for you also if you'd like to stay up to date with what i'm doing on my youtube channel or what i'm up to when i'm not making videos feel free to go follow me over on twitter at uc gundam we also have an official uc gundam discord if you'd like to join that the link will be down in the description anyways that's gonna be all from me for today thank you so much for watching and until next time this has been uc gundam signing out [Music]