Lecture Notes on Wave Dynamics

Introduction to Wave Diagrams

• Diagram Overview: Illustrates wave properties and measurements
  • Wavelength: Distance between consecutive crests
  • Wave Base: Half the wavelength, measured from still water level
• Still Water Level: Midpoint between wave trough and crest

Wave Movement and Direction

• Orbital Motion: Objects in water move in circles, not just up and down
  • Example: Curtis Ebbesmeyer and rubber duckies illustration
• Film Reference: "Waves Across the Pacific" by Walter Munk
  • Note: Illustrates orbital motion effectively
• Wave Base: Below this, no water movement due to waves

Graphical Analysis of Waves

• Worksheet Review: Focus on X and Y axes
  • X-axis: Wavelength (meters preferred)
  • Y-axis: Wave speed (meters per second preferred)

Relationship Between Variables

• Wavelength and Period:
  • Longer wavelengths correspond to longer periods
  • Example: 16-second period approximately equals a 400-meter wavelength
• Wave Speed: Increases with period and wavelength
  • Example: Longer periods/wavelengths result in faster wave speed

Worked Examples

• Example Questions: Using graph to find relationships
  • Period of 13 seconds: Speed is 20 meters/second
  • Period of 8 seconds: Speed is 12 meters/second
  • Wavelength of 150 meters: Period of 10 seconds = Speed of 15 meters/second
  • Speed of 10 meters/second: Wavelength ~70 meters
  • Speed of 25 meters/second: Wavelength ~260 meters

Key Takeaways

• Always use metric units (meters, meters/second)
• Understanding graphs is crucial for exams/quizzes
• Relationship between wavelength, period, and speed is fundamental

Prepare for questions on these relationships and practice using graphs to interpret wave properties.