Coastal Landscapes Lecture Notes

Key Terminology

• Backshore: Area between high watermark and landward limit
• Foreshore: Area between high water mark and low water mark
• Inshore: Between low water mark and the point where waves have no influence
• Offshore: Beyond where waves impact the seabed

Coastal Systems

• Coast as a system:
  • Flows: Links between stores
  • Inputs: Addition of matter
  • Stores: Where energy is kept
  • Inputs include wind, waves, sea currents, and tides

Wave Dynamics

• Wave Movement:
  • Friction slows wave at seabed
  • Elliptical orbit and steeper wave leads to swash and backwash
• Types of Waves:
  • Constructive Waves: Low wave height, low frequency, strong swash
  • Destructive Waves: High wave height, high frequency, strong backwash
• Wave Refraction: Waves bend towards shallower water, causing high energy on headlands and low energy in bays

Coastal Processes

• Longshore Drift: Movement of sediment along the coast by angled waves
• Rip Currents: Strong currents moving away from the shore
• Tides: Periodic rise and fall of sea level
  • Spring Tide: After new or full moon
  • Neap Tide: After first or third quarter of the moon
• Tidal Range: Difference between high and low tide

Coastal Landforms

• High Energy Coastlines: Characterized by headlands, cliffs (e.g., Atlantic coastline, Northern Europe)
• Low Energy Coastlines: Characterized by beaches, spits (e.g., Baltic Sea)

Processes and Features

• Marine Processes: Erosion, transportation, deposition
• Sub-aerial Processes: Weathering, mass movement
• Formation of Landforms:
  • Caves, arches, stacks, stumps
  • Wave cut notches and platforms
• Beach Features: Runnels, cusps

Spits and Bars

• Simple Spit: Extends parallel to coast
• Compound Spit: Hooked or curved feature
• Bars: Ridge of sand or shingle connecting headlands, may form lagoons

Mudflats and Salt Marshes

• Develop into salt marshes, need sheltered shoreline, fine sediment

Sea Level Changes

• Eustatic Change: Volume of water in sea changes
• Isostatic Change: Vertical movements of land relative to sea

Coastal Management

• Aims: Defense against flooding, protection against erosion
• Approaches:
  • Shoreline Management Plans
    • Hold the line, manage realignment, no active intervention, advance the line
  • Integrated Coastal Zone Management

Case Studies

• Pevensey Bay: Longshore drift management, coastal defenses
• Sunderbans: Mangrove forest, risks from climate change
  • Strategies for resilience, mitigation, adaptation

Exam Preparation

• Ensure understanding of AO1 content
• Develop skills in critical thinking and application for exams