Overview
This lecture covers key concepts, techniques, and terminology related to chemical texture services, including permanent waving and hair relaxing processes.
Chemical Texture Services: Basics
- Chemical texture services change the natural wave pattern of the hair using chemical and physical changes.
- Permanent waving involves wrapping hair on rods and applying waving solution and neutralizer.
- Chemical hair relaxing rearranges curly hair into a straighter form using relaxers.
Types of Perms and Wrap Techniques
- Basic permanent wrap (straight set) uses rods placed in the same direction on equal-sized bases.
- Bricklay wrap offsets base sections row by row to prevent splits.
- Spiral perm wrap winds hair at an angle for spiral curls along the rod.
- Double rod (piggyback) wrap uses two rods for extra-long hair.
- Weave technique uses zigzag partings to divide base areas.
- Single and double flat wraps use end papers to control hair ends during wrapping.
Perm Tools and Placement
- Straight rods have a uniform diameter; concave rods are smaller in the center.
- Loop (circle) rods are about 12 inches long with a consistent diameter.
- On base placement wraps hair at 45° beyond perpendicular for maximum lift.
- Half off base placement wraps hair at 90° to its base.
- Off base placement is at 45° below center for minimal volume.
Chemistry of Perms and Relaxers
- Thio-based perms use ammonium thioglycolate as the reducing agent.
- Thio-free waves use cysteamine or mercaptamine instead of ATG.
- True acid waves have pH 4.5–7.0 and require heat; acid balanced waves process faster and form firmer curls.
- Hydroxide relaxers are strong alkalis with pH over 13, with types like sodium, lithium, and potassium hydroxide (lye relaxers).
- Processing time depends on hair texture, porosity, and relaxer strength.
Hair Structure and Bonds
- Hair is made of keratin proteins, arranged as long, coiled polypeptide chains.
- Disulfide, salt, and hydrogen bonds cross-link hair structure; breaking and reforming these bonds changes shape.
- Neutralization rebuilds disulfide bonds after perming or relaxing.
Safety and Best Practices
- Always check hair's texture, porosity, elasticity, and damage before services.
- Rinse perm solution for at least 5 minutes before neutralizer.
- Apply base cream to protect scalp during relaxer; avoid scratching scalp.
- Use neutralizing shampoo after chemical relaxers.
Key Terms & Definitions
- Viscosity — Thickness or thinness of a liquid.
- Base direction — Angle at which a rod is positioned on the head.
- Base control — Position of tool in relation to its base section.
- Processing time — Length of time hair absorbs waving lotion and recurls.
- Neutralization — Process that rebuilds disulfide bonds.
- Preneutralizing conditioner — Used to help restore hair before neutralizer.
- Lanthionization — Conversion of disulfide bonds to lanthionine during relaxing.
Action Items / Next Steps
- Review perm and relaxer procedures, including proper sectioning and wrapping.
- Study key terms and definitions for the final exam.
- Practice identifying base placement types and wrap techniques on diagrams.