Lecture Notes on Hair Composition and Chemistry

um so so far we have covered the fiber the composition and all the patterns and textures and the way they are the same and different and then we jumped into melanin so we can understand when we're looking at somebody's natural level what we're looking at you know how much how much melanin do I have and what's the balance going on here um and specifically we want to look out for warmth because that's the Nemesis right everything else is fine it's the the warmth so now we talk we're gonna talk a little bit about the bonds because when we break hair down we always said we're going for the melanin but we can't avoid breaking down the protein so we want to understand how that protein breaks down so we're aware of what we're doing right so this right here is one big one protein molecule when there's billions in the hair now Dana does this ever like get wild to you because you see like nursing cross over into hair that's got to be like so cool and wild for you at the same time um I have a couple of friends that are chemistry and biology teachers and they love hearing me talk about what we share because they're like that's what we talk about you know which is kind of cool it's so similar the crossover it's it's crazy to me sometimes yeah I bet you're like wow that's so wild right um now when we talk about the protein you remember how we said in the beginning Valerie always says the hair is um biologically dead but chemically alive it's chemically alive specifically in the middle of this protein molecule where all these side bonds are that's where the chemical aliveness tends to happen the most for us so we're going to focus on those bonds what they are and how they break so we're aware of how we affect the hair okay now when it comes to side bonds there's three main side bonds that we deal with in the hair do you guys remember what they are it's okay if you don't what do you do you any Amino so amino acids are these little balls on the side that connect together to create these long chains called polypeptides okay so that's where the amino acids fit on the side and each amino acid is slightly different and the thing that makes it different is these little things hanging off the side called the side chains side chain plus side chain connect to create a side Bond okay so these three in the middle we have three we have a hydrogen we have a and we have a disulfide bond also known as The sulfur Bond so there's three main bonds that we deal with salt hydrogen and dulfi now they're going to fall into one or two families they're either going to be a physical Bond or a chemical bond one or the other now a physical bond is a bond that will pull apart but can come back together so comes back together chemical is different that sucker is strong you you got to break it with intention so out of these three let's put them in either a physical category or chemical so we know what we're dealing with here so hydrogen is it physical or chemical what do you think chemical it's actually physical so um the hydrogen will pull apart but it can come back together it's not permanent chemicals permanent physicals not so hydrogen is a physical there's a one more that's a physical which one do you think it is a salt you got it Jade the salt Bond they also call the salt B Bond ionic and ionic just means it has a charge either positive or negative okay so then we have the the the one we only have one that's in the chemical family and it's called disulfide yep so salt and hydrogen and disulfide you got it so these are per not permanent and this one has that permanence to it so let's talk about how they break hydrogen what pulls the hydrogen bond apart and then can pull it back together what do you think there's two things water water yes Dana's like no pressure I'm the nurse I'm supposed to know right no pressure yes it's water and heat so you think about it you shampoo somebody at the shampoo bowl you broke hydrogen bonds you blew her dry the hydrogen bonds came back together in that new shape you created so we deal with hydrogen bonds all the time when we style hair two strand twist roller sets flat iron blow dries anytime we change the shape of the hair but then as soon as you wet it it goes right back that's hydrogen bonds we're messing with okay it changes the shape not permanent then we have the salt Bond the salt Bond breaks a little bit different so the salt Bond remember we said it was ionic positive and negative so a salt Bond will break with a change in positive and negative charge so we want to understand the salt Bond let's do this let's go back to kindergarten shall we you guys don't mind doing that every now and then do you I like feeling like a little kid sometimes all right let's talk about how um charges work and then we'll go to the ionic bond the salt Bond and kind of figure out how that breaks okay okay now if I have a positive and negative charge what's going to happen is it going to come together or is it going to repel together yes Paula Abdul told us opposites ATT trct right watch this did you see that I didn't I mean the attraction is so strong right but what happens if we have same charge and same charge push apart yes repel push apart in our world we call that swell so write that down in our world repel equals swell so watch what happens when I put these two together look at that it won't even come oh oh oh that's no fair because that's the other charge hold on look at that it's like running away repelling come here come here it's not going to happen right so Opposites Attract and same charges repel one another so what the heck does that have to do with the salt Bond watch this so in the salt bond that charge right there is positive so the salt bonds have these very weak easy to let go of positive charges if I come to this hair fiber with a negative charge Watch What Happens I'm gonna come in with a negative charge in my product it's going to pull that positive charge which then leaves a negative behind negative is going to start to repel negative in the hair and guess what's going to happen to the hair swell it's going to start to repel itself and swell exactly so how do you keep that super simple if I put negative charge into the hair the hair starts to repel within itself do you guys follow if I put a little bit of charge in there that's negative it'll repel a little bit and swell a little bit if I put a lot of negative charge in there guess what's going to happen swells a lot swells a lot exactly so negative charge will swell the hair fiber it's the opposite when I add positive charge in there positive charge will actually help constrict it that's like conditioner versus like um developer yeah we're g to talk about where that negative and positive charge comes from but yes Jade absolutely so we'll talk about where it comes from but just so you know um salt Bond Breaks by the positive and negative charge adding and taking away positive and negative charge so it can go away and come back together is everybody with us on why that's temporary the the disulfide is different the chemical bond a chemical bond has to break with intention so it has to break with chemical chemical bonds break chemical bonds chemical chemical reactions break chemical bonds that's better okay now if you think about the bonds they're they have a purpose in the hair the disulfide bond in particular is um it holds the 3D structure of the hair together it's like foundational beams in the hair think about like the game of D Jenga you start pulling off those chemical bonds right and the hair starts to weaken but is the D Jenga game gonna fall down in the beginning when we start taking like one or two is it gonna fall down no no but at the end of the D Jenga game how is everybody feeling like don't shake the table and everyone's like this and freaking out like tense right because if you know if you take one more that whole freaking house is falling down right it's the same thing with hair when we do chemical processes on the hair there's no way you're going to avoid breaking down the chemical bond it's going to break it's a byproduct of what we do so that's not the issue the issue is don't break too many don't make the house fall does that make sense all right so what do we break it with three main chemical reactions we use first one oxidation oxidation is lightener hair color some removers anything that you mix your product with a developer that has oxygen we throw oxygen into the hair and it breaks that oxygen breaks that th sulfide Bond bam creates something new syic acid so it's breaking and making something new so oxidation lightener hair color anything you're mixing with that hydrogen peroxide you're throwing an oxygen into the hair breaks D sulfide is that good you got oxidation second one reduction reduction is perm reduction is tho relaxers reduction is some color removers you know the stinky ones that smell like sulfur that's reduction uh let's see I think that's pretty much reduction okay so what is reduction reduction is simply this they take a hydrogen and they put it in the hair the hydrogen acts like a door stop it's like hold my beer and the disulfide bond slide you put the something in there like a doorstep now it can slide you take the hydrogen out now the disulfide bonds will reconnect with whatever is on the other side sometimes there's another disulfide and sometimes there's not so it's going to break them not as intensely as oxidation but it will still break them CPR has anyone ever used Malibu CPR that's a reducer it's just a very weak one so we break it by reduction the break is not the same it's not as powerfully strong oxidation is the strongest then you have something called lonization Jade this is where your question comes in lonization is hydroxide relaxers it comes in and it literally breaks off one of these sulfur and leaves one hanging and that's called the what is it called lanthionine bond is that did I say that right Alicia lanthionine um so so Jade when you come in with a relaxer you're going to break it like this and leave this guy hanging reduction you break it and it makes something um oxidation you break it and it goes and makes something called staic acid reduction you come in and it slides take the hydrogen out and come back and meet up with whatever's on the other side so those are the three main ways we break that dulite Bond I think that pretty much covers all of our chemical stuff got any others that we might use I think that Alicia did we miss any no we didn't yeah does the same thing happen with like chlorine like pool water does it change the bond of the hair a little bit or no no I don't think it's the same kind of reaction there are more than that those kind of reactions happening but those are the ones we do with our chemicals does that make sense so if we know we're GNA break the dulfi bond no matter what we do right so our job is to break as little as possible so how could we do our job by creating color change or shape change that's permanent without creating too much damage I bet we could come up with some ideas like if we were coloring or lightening hair what could we do to keep that damage as low as possible what are some things we could do okay so yes low oxidate low low like low volume right I heard that I heard bonders bonders are like little buffers it's not going to prevent but it can help buffer it a little bit is that like when people add conditioner and stuff to their ratios no conditioner kind of brings PH down a little bit so it's not the same um bonders have different ingredients in them that help buffer some of that sometimes they do take the PH down it just depends on the bonder there's three different kinds so you could do that what about um the way that we apply it no overlap right um and here's a great rule of th to give you an idea of like the breakage so first application of permanent color we break 10% of those disulfides one application of permanent color one application of a high lift is about 15% and then one application of a lightener are you guys ready for this what do you guys thinking could be 70 you're gonna feel so much better when I tell you this then it's about about 20 does that feel better yeah but it is the most aggressive right that we do which is really interesting because um some of the older stylists that have been doing hair a long time they know some of the stuff and they watch the younger stylists come in with bonders and they're literally on the floor like heart beating like palpitations because they know and some of the younger stylists aren't always taught what's happening in terms of how much bonds are breaking or they grew up in an environment where bonders were always there and so their Paradigm is a little different so you'll see some of these older stylists like having panic attacks Le is that true or no true you know because they just they know they grew up in a time where they're in the hair world where there was no bonder or conversation happening and that's to cut you off that's where I learned some of my tricks of the trade from before bunders came out they were able to guide me on the what to do if I wanted to do two different type of chemicals according to the pH on that type of hair on my texture type of hair yeah because they tell you do not mix lonization with oxidation because they don't play well together which is why Alicia said in the beginning they always said to her you can't do anything but change like the shape or use a semi-permanent because if you do relaxer you can't mess with this now Alicia does do both but she's been trained very well and how to do them so it's not that we would never advise anybody to go and do both that hasn't gotten the training at all is that like the same as a Brazilian blowout that's I was just gonna say because people at my Sal the salon ey workout they do and don't I might have it mixed up but they color it first and then they do the blowout second okay so there's a couple of different things so Brazilian blowout um it's the one that you put the product in and you're flat ironing it right that's a different product than the Japanese straightener okay so the Japanese straightener is more like this chemically but the Brazilian blowout it's like taking them a cast and putting it on each individual hair strand and that cast will eventually break off slowly so that's not the same kind of inward chemical change as a Japanese straightener does that make sense yeah so um that's not the same thing that's why you can do both but it will because of the Heat and the way that they have that the chemical that they apply it will break down the color that was put in there yeah so does this help you guys to know how bonds break yeah yeah it's and just to understand what's going on some of the stuff they taught in hair school but sometimes they didn't and sometimes even if they taught it you didn't know you needed to know it but now you need to know it right and now you're like oh okay this makes sense right all right so um any more any questions about that Alicia let's close this section out and then I think um let's see how just repeat the three that you said ear the light the high lift lightener and the permanent color what the percentages were you got it so first application of permanent is about 10% okay first application of high lift is about 15 and then the first application of lightener is about 20 again timing texture volume of developer will all adjust those factors but this is just kind of a baseline yeah which why that's why it's so important not to overlap like if you're doing lightener ex exactly exactly or like if you see people do wet Balayage and I see that the hair is already at like a level nine I'm just like because hair is the weakest when the bonds are broken so you have broken bonds and then came in with the highest thing possible and people think it's gentler it's actually the opposite right so if it dry hair is dry the bond the hydrogen bonds aren't broken you wet the hair you broke the bonds you already immediately went in with broken bonds and then you went and then you you know so it's it's interesting to see what goes on on um online versus knowing the chemistry side and you're like whoa whoa whoa they always on Instagram it was diluted it was gentler in the hair I've always hear that which is hard because this is where Jade where you're saying I hear stuff but then I hear opposite stuff so what's gonna H and that's going to happen all the time when you ground yourself in the stuff that you're learning when the opposite stuff comes in because you understand why it won't shake you but when you don't understand why then you get shaken because you're like wait is that right is that not right so getting yourself grounded in that chemistry you see stuff you just know what to ignore because you're like yep that's not right and I'll I promise you this I don't care how old or how young that person is sometimes you look at that person you go oh they're so old they've been in the industry a long time they must know but I want you to think about how much you learned in hair school just know that they came from the same situation so somewhere along the line they're trying to pick up what pieces that they can pick up and sometimes they pick up pieces that aren't accurate so I have a quick question about the overlap obviously I know you're not supposed to do it but but um say you have someone come in and they have like three inches of regrowth their mid strand is lightened but it's kind of they didn't let it lift high enough and then our ends are like white they're where they need to be would you go in with like a a 20 volume to get if say they're level seven naturally so you go in with the 20 volume at the regrowth and then like a seven volume at the midst strand just to kind of break that a little bit yeah we're not saying not overlap we're saying if you have to overlap be as gentle as you can okay but you still have a job to do yeah so you have to figure out the thing is about choices knowing what's going on so you can choose better right so if you know what's going on you're going to choose maybe that five or that seven or 10 volume rather than 20 because now you know it's happening but when don't know what's happening you just go go for the 20 you know like you just your choices are different okay when you know versus when you don't know so we're not saying don't overlap we're just saying be cautious when you're doing things knowing what's going on okay that's all cool awesome all right let's close this little piece out um Alicia what you got for us you want some process pause yeah you guys you guys want a process pause just to make sure we kind of grasp what we got process pause just means she's going to ask us some questions and we'll just answer her so the questions are going to basically guide us like did we capture what we just talked about or do we need to kind of re rehash the section yeah that's all that super simple you guys I I feel like Dana was like huh wait that's our verbiage that we use process pause let's pause and process okay you guys so all right so out of the five things that the hair is composed of what two main things break down while lifting out of the five what are we breaking down protein and pigment absolutely you got it you got it okay so why does knowing the starting tone matters starting tone like warm or cool natural level and starting tone why does the tone versus melanin reviewing everything from before like everything now yeah I was a little confused I'm like this is we just went over bonds it's a you guys are nailing it you're nailing it yes you are you are I promise so Julie why do we need to know our starting timeone matters oh Jay just told us J oh you nailed it Jade oh knowing the you melon and the fail melon in the hair exactly because we could have a warmer underlying pigment as well which right Jay my bad I didn't hear you at first I think I toned out for a second second my bad I thought Julie said um all right next one what bonds chemically break hydrogen bom chemically break yes um the dword uhhuh uhuh I bom Y and the last one overall and what happens if we break two men the house falls down come on all fall down yeah are your elasticity like this uhuh and there's no return sometimes I take pasta and I go ex exactly but we're not damaging hair that much are we hopefully no no no no no we don't want to break that okay you guys doing great you killing it you got this all right let's go into pH do you guys need a break or do you want to just dive into pH and then take a break you tell me dive in dive in okay we're gonna keep pH simple don't worry okay but the pH is the beginning of starting to color change okay so this is where color change is going to start to kick in you guys ready for like some color change stuff chemistry all right so pH is it important to what we do do we need it yes yes what are like why why do we need it what does it help us do it helps kind of measure acidic and alkaline like where that lives on that scale yeah because we know that we got to get inside here to get the melanin right so somehow we got to swell this sucker open so we have access pH is our ability to start swelling this sucker open so we have access to where the Mel is okay so pH is the thing that's going to help us create color change it's also the thing that's going to help our Chemicals React so it's going to help the chemicals go and it's going to help us get inside where the melanin lives so it's a big deal right now it's um it's a scale and we're measuring things because scales measure things right what are we measuring what does pH measure the AL and acidity is that what we're is that what it yeah yeah you just shout out what you think I love it Kelsey yes it's measuring the alkalinity the acidity and pH stands for potential hydrogen or the power of hydrogen so what is that that hydrogen is an ion and it's positive now what's interesting in the chemistry World they know that if we're measuring this potential hydrogen this positive charge we actually are also measuring this one o which is negative that pH scale measures the balance between how much positive charge and how much negative charge our products are holding so your developer what's the balance of that positive and negative in your developer a hair tube of hair color your lightener it's measuring that balance that's what that pH is okay now when we look at the scale how do we read this scale how do we read it well at zero that positive is the highest so anytime we're at zero the high that positive charge is high but as you move towards the opposite side it gets low so super high over here which they call that side what just what you said Kelsey acidic where the positive charge is high as it heads towards this other side it gets lower now it's the opposite with these negative ions the hydroxide when you're at zero they're the lowest and as you move towards the opposite side they go higher you guys see what's happening here so on this side the positive is high negative is low but it's actually the opposite over here over here here the negative is high the positive is low and then they have this thing in the middle right here and they call it neutral what do you think neutral means medium they balance yeah okay perfect they the positive and negative charge are imbalance they're equal so at seven on that pH scale they're both equal so if I'm at seven where they're equal and I go to eight somebody's winning which side is winning the alkaline the alkaline negative exactly so on the alkaline side the negative is winning but if I go let's say I'm at seven where they're equal and I go to a four now who's winning the positive side cic the positive side is winning exactly now um here's what's interesting watch this if I am at a a three and I move to a five what just increased positive or negative negative negative but Jade does this matter that I'm still on the acidic side yeah or no yes no it doesn't matter you're right Jade I don't care where you are on the scale if you're moving in the direction of alkalinity your your negative charge is increasing so you are correct even though I'm on the acidic side if I go from three to a five the negative is increasing so anytime you move in this direction no matter where you are on the scale the negative increases does this make sense you guys so is that saying that change is technically happening even if you're moving a little bit over to one side or the other side right the balance is changing something is increasing so anytime you move in this direction towards alkaline no matter where you are on the scale the negative is increasing but if I'm here so let's get rid of this if I'm at 11 and I move to another n what just increased then positive positive anytime I move in this direction the positive increases I don't care where you are on the scale does this make sense that makes sense but the part that I'm kind of like and maybe I don't need to think about this is when you have the pink one and you were at the zero and you went down and then the blue at the red side you know and then you went up what was that about so here's what the negative is when you're at zero the negative is very low so if I start to move this way the negative is increasing okay okay got it so at the end of the day all you have to remember is this if I'm moving towards alkaline no matter where you are on the scale negative is increasing if I move towards the acidic side no matter where you are on the scale the positive is increasing can that's a question absolutely with hair is there like a certain point on the scale where where it's just either open or closed you know what I mean like if you're under like a six it's just definitely closed whereas you once once you pass the six it's definitely open or I wish it was that easy okay but it's not exactly that easy um but here's what we'll do let's talk about where hair lives on the scale and then what affects the hair and then it'll give us an idea of what's going on okay so hair hair lives at about a four and a half on the scale okay have you heard that before everybody okay this is hair's balance point and this is a Natural Healthy hairs balance point and what that means is if you put a pH on that healthy hair that lives at about a four and a half it's not going to swell or constrict it okay but if I start to put anything on the hair that lives above it that means I'm adding negative charge anytime I go above hair and I'm moving towards the alkaline side negative charges increasing if I add negative to hair remember what we said about magnets negative and negative it will swell swell so anytime I put something on the hair that lives above the four and a half it will swell the further away I go the more negative charge I put on there the more it will expand well exactly now the opposite is true if I am at a four and a half on the scale where hair's neutral point is and I put something that's below that hair that means I'm adding positive charge to the hair if I add positive charge to the hair guess what it does constricts it constricts it it pulls it close it hardens and constricts all right so is everybody clear so far on that all right so let's start talking about the the products that we put on here if I put water on here now if the water is pure water you guys with me on that if it's pure water pure water lives about here on the pH scale add a seven if I put a seven on the hair what charge did I add to the hair positive or negative negative charge and what does negative charge do it swells the yeah so if I put water on hair what am I doing to the hair swelling it swelling swelling it for two reasons hydrogen bonds swell and salt bonds swell guys with me so just water swells the hair what happens if I put a acidic Demi on the hair where do we think this lives on the scale take a guess it's okay if it's not right just take a guess who cares on the positive side of the scale right you would think that right Jade because it says acidic but acidic Demis tend to live in this area here about a six and a seven so if I put an acidic Demi on hair what is it doing to hair nothing really Welling it just it so go by the chemistry what happens if I put something on hair that lives above it on the pH scale what did I just add to it what charge negative charge and what does negative charge do to hair swells swells swells it so if I put an acidic Demi on hair that lives at about a six or seven in the pH scale what is it doing to the hair swelling the hair swelling the hair what happens if the wet the hair is swollen already and if the hair is wet it's already here and then you're putting an acidic Demi on it like a glaze right it's not swelling it anymore it's already there okay okay but what we need to know is acidic demise will it seal a cuticle no no it cannot I Jade I feel like you're like processing what in the wood yeah I feel like I I heard the opposite of you know that City will steal it and do add a shine whatever whatever all these different things and now it's like it's not doing that okay yes so Jade I know this is the part that's frustrating because you're working through marketing do you understand our business is not number one science second marketing our business is marketing first science second are you with me me okay if you know the science then you'll understand what's going on so we're just going to teach you the science and then you're going to have to work through all the marketing yay the difference between like so an alkaline Demi would yes swell it more than acidic yes Dana and tell me why why would an alkaline Demi swell it more where do we think the um the pH is on an alkaline Demi is it more or less than an acidic more yes it's more so the pH of a demi alkaline everybody's is a little different so we're going to give you a range it's about an eight and a half so if I put an eight and a half on natural hair it is swelling the hair now do you see how how it's actually further away from the um hair than the acidic was so the alkaline Dem I actually adds more negative charge to the hair than the acidic so the further away you go the more negative charge there is is that makes sense everybody so the alkaline is swelling it more than the acidic simply because it's higher up on the pH scale so now when kind of like uh Jade was saying if someone comes in and you want to do an add-on service which might be marketing um and they're getting a haircut and they but they only get their hair colored every eight weeks and you say oh we should add some shine to this let's put a gloss on your hair is that you are adding shine because you're adding color and color gives reflection okay but you're not Sealing anything okay does that make sense now sometimes an acidic Demi has like ingredients that will stay behind after shampooing that will make the hair look flatter the cuticle look flatter but that's not sealing it does that make sense and so but it does deposit ingredients that will help that cuticle look and reflect shinier okay okay but is it swell or is it you know gluing it shut and sealing it no nothing seals it it's impossible unless you glue it because if I have a blowout and I go outside and it's humid out there guess what that humidity just did to your hair it swo your hydrogen bonds because the humidity is water in the air so you could put whatever you want on it and flat on it as much as you want but the environment is going to affect it so nothing Stills secure cuticle unless you glue it and nobody's gluing a cuticle but you can make it lay flatter which will make it appear shinier because of the way the light's reflecting okay so Jay are you doing okay I know your mind's like just think about everything I've been told yeah all right so let's talk about permanent hair color is it higher on the pH scale than P the alkaline demine what do you think yeah yes yes it is it's about a nine and a half to a 10 just depends on the level and your brand level and brand so do you see we're going further and further the further away we go the more swell we have is everybody with us because it's got more negative charge where did it live again I'm sorry permanent color um it's about a nine and a half just depends on your brand we're going to teach you how to find out all right what about lighteners where do you think they live higher or lower let's do that higher lower where do we think they live take a guess on the far right they live further out yes but they're not as far far as you think about a 10 10 and a half there's a reason for that we'll cover why they're not higher um there's other ingredients in there that's helping you break that that hair down so we'll talk about that in a little bit but but it is higher than your permanent now high lift is a little bit like in between the two so do you see how the thing that gets you the lightest is actually the furthest on the pH scale so here's what here's a really big thing we want to know the higher we go in PH the more we swell the hair which means the more possible lift so if I want the most amount of lift which one would I choose acidic Demi alkaline Demi permanent high lift or lightener lightener lightener lightener the one furthest away is going to give me the most lift if I want the least amount of lift or shift in the hair which would I choose acidic Demi you got it the closer it is in PH the less list you're going to get the further away the more you're G to get does that make sense awesome one more thing that's important about the pH the further away I go I know I'm GNA swell the most yes which means the hair is wide open for D penetration so the higher the pH the deeper the Dy penetration the low lower the ph it's not open as much you won't get as much D penetration does this make sense that equals longevity the deeper it is the longer it lasts the less deep the less longevity so if I was going to use an acidic an alkaline Demi a permanent which would give me the most longevity permanent you got it because it goes in the deepest which would give me the least amount of longevity acidic Demi you got it you guys putting things together here you make choices based on those now if you have a client that likes to go back and forth like they want to be really light for summer and really dark and fall and they do that constantly even though acidic Demi doesn't last as long would that be the better way for them to go because you're going to be needing to break back through that color after Fall's over I do in the middle okay for me okay I'd probably go to Demi alkaline because you want longevity you don't want it washing out in a week you know so but you don't want it to be as deep so I would personally go for the alkaline Demi okay great question all right you guys ready to talk about this one where does this one live Dana you look like you're going to fall asleep just focusing she's like don't call me out like that where do they live I think don't they live below seven that like defin J yes yes yes below seven and below the hair below four you got it and below the hair so they live about between a two and a half to a three so we'll just say three for like average so how many of you have heard if you want to um get you have resistant gray put a demo put a developer on it to pre soften okay so a developer is less um it's it's more acidic than hair so what is it doing to the hair is it swelling or constricting constricting yes I've never done that ever I haven't either but um it's it's an old school they don't actually I hear that they're stopping to teach it but they would teach that it is actually constricting the hair but it is costic it's breaking the hair down so if I have an option of breaking the hair down and poking holes in it or swelling the hair with a hair color which would be healthier swelling the hair with the hair color you got it so if I were going to pre-o cten I would choose color oh color I would choose a high level of color that has high alkalinity um I've heard washing the hair before applying permanent color too helps soften the cuticle is that true it does yes it does the hair right it does but if it dries that comes back together right okay but Alexa I'm not talking to you it is so sensitive um but it does get rid of like um buildup and mineral so you're actually creating a clean canvas because your permanent only works so long so instead of battling clear you know build up and all that and then getting into the fiber it gets to go right in so you have a better coverage the hair's clean yeah um is this helpful to go through how this stuff affects your hair yeah it's going to shift the way we think right and and what we're choosing all right so let's talk about this one um Alicia I'm GNA cover this one and then you guys you ask them the questions that we can kind of get them into some action go going getting into some action but all right where do we think relaxers are on the scale alkaline oh where are they at um let's do are they higher than permanent or lower um relax relaxers lower Alicia higher higher [Music] higher really high Alicia is this right right about a 9 to 14 14 according to the strength as we blow through the cuticle we like open It Wide Open right yes it's high it's like an earthquake hitting the hair and breaking that one one suur Bond it's like an earthquake hitting the hair when it's that high yeah and N Out and real quickly so like for the nine because there's three different strength you're going to have mild regular and resistant your resistant is going to be more towards your P your 14 and your mound is going to be more towards your nine and that's just the basic then you're dealing with calcium and all of that but yeah it's like needs to do a whole class on relax or just to kind of literally like yeah we don't need to get into that then because I was you had a question Jade yeah so when because I you know I've had clients who either have had some kind of smoothing treatment of some kind now once that's done the hair has been physically altered to some degree from that chemical treatment so does your thinking of the pH along with that has to change when you're formulating color going forward because now it's like the hair was compromised in one way yes okay most definitely so what we talk about now is more for hair that's like kind of untouched or like you know um Virgin Hair I would assume versus like treated you know chemically treated so chemically treated hair is great I'm going to give you just one thing so you can understand what happens when it's chemically treated just so you have an idea the actual neutral of pH then goes down because um it creates more of those H bonds that are easily broken so when hair is more damaged it gains more of this so it goes down now I need a whole hecka more just to bring it back back down to a neutral place so we don't want to get too crazy into all the pH but just understand this as the hair gets damaged it goes down and it needs more positive charge to bring it to a healthy place but try like it's good to have this information but it's not good to overwhelm yourself so much where you paralyze yourself so it's like take the information in how do we keep it simple the more the higher you go the more SW you're going to to create means you're going to lift more the higher you go the deeper the die okay that means it's going to be like it's going to be more long longevity okay if the hair is more damaged I actually need more positive charge to bring it back to a a better place keep those things simple so take it in and just go how do we simplify because otherwise you're literally going to be like on the floor overwhelmed with all this information and that's not the point the point is to know so you can move simply and quickly so it's like take it in and go how do we simplify is that cool can we do that and that way you don't feel overwhelmed good all right all right so let's chat about this one thing because this will answer questions like if the hair you know you lighten the hair and you put an acidic color on what happens so Alicia will you walk through some of that with what yeah okay so if I want a lot of lift well Julie let me ask this question real quick talk let's just do this one the um let's just go right into the question the activity question okay is that cool that way we because I think we kind of I covered the process pause already in that section so problem so you guys I want you to write this down okay you ready what happens to the pH when we mix the developer with the color where do you think it the pH will land don't say nothing write it down so when we mix our developer with our color where do you think the pH will [Music] land excitedly [Music] okay now we're get ready to do an activity so I need you guys after you have wrote that down to go get three bowls a cup even if you have to do it on four go get your developer your hair color and we asked you to get some litus paper this is our pH reader some people have used um a lipus pen and also some people unfortunately end up getting um ordering one for pool water if you got the one for pool water you don't you won't necessarily get the exact but you can always go back and get the lipus paper and do it again and what we're doing now is that we are getting ready to find out our pH level and what we use so what I need you to do is in one bowl put your developer in another Bowl put your color in another Bowl put the color with the developer together so three bowls cups of FS your developer your hair color and one bowl put your developer by itself in another Bowl put your hair color by itself huh does it matter the ratio no just you need just enough and then in the last bowl you're going to mix your hair color and your develop ER [Music] together all right so once you have that I want you to pull out a piece of your lipm paper when you pull out a piece of your lpmos paper you're going to dip your lpmos paper inside of your developer re you're going to dip it in and dip it out and if you have a piece of paper towel near you you can wipe it off immediately on the paper towel read it and see where your developer Al own lands on the pH so I never used these before am I like literally just pulling breaking it off like yes you are pulling it breaking it off taking your developer uh oh dipping it in side of it you're going to dip it in and dip it out wipe it off and then you're going to take it and put it against your reader we're just on the developer this time just the developer yes ma'am okay and then once you see what your pH where your pH lands for your developer write that thing now get your color take your color put it in a separate Bowl okay or cup once you have that you take another piece of lpmos paper dip it in and out wipe off see where on the pH your color LS and write that down and because I can't find my other bow you know what a song pops in my head Alicia what party in the USA I don't know why that pocks my head but I was like it's a pH party us and don't forget you guys put it up to your litmus reader to your reader so you can be sure yes so then you write down where your pH landed for your color now in the last bowl read your pH scale for both there be exact measurements like should you like on the scale just enough to read just just it doesn't have to be exact and now not Julie I'm not even gonna tell you how I'm cheating I can't find my b okay hey I like purple purple gloves work great look I'm just like okay so gotta do what you gotta do gotta do what you gotta do T you gotta improvise sometimes yes so then you turn around and you read that dip it in and dip it out wipe immediately M put it up against the pH scale wow this is ala's favorite section can you tell it favorite you see where it lands man when we first learned how to do this we literally tested everything we could get our hands on in the salon we're like and this and this yeah oh in the midst of this the reason for this activity of course is to see where I PA land right for each tool or chemical that we use separately and together and I know right now some of you are probably like shook I know I was Julie what about you when you first did yes when I first understood what was going on no when I first thought I didn't understand what was going on but I was like what does this mean but yes all right so I have a question right um we talked about the swelling so the D swell is harder than the swell so when if the dwell is harder than the swell you guys what do you think we have to do to Dell that hair bring that hair back down well can we do this really fasta can we like find out where their developer was and where their color was and then what happened when they met in the middle that way they can hear what each other's was okay and then we'll go yeah then we'll go there yeah yeah okay cool beans okay so you guys ready all right so um anybody like to share what was your pH for your developer three anybody a two mine I did not get the right litmus paper so I'm gonna have to do it later yeah yeah yeah no worries that's cool mine was a four okay what brand did you guys have and what level developer did you use just to see if for some reason we have the same one and got different things I have um Sport scy and I have a seven volume I have coverline and I have a tin volume I have joy Co and I use 10 volume and I normally use Matrix so mine are always three and it doesn't do matter which volume so there's a range you guys see there's a range and it's very it's lower than [Music] hair so now that matters pH matters it matters so now what did you get for your color 10 I got eight got n mine's normally about a nine and a half 10 but they're hard to read the Habs on these things so you kind of have to you can get a pH reader if you want but to me those are a little bit of a pain in the butt this I don't feel like we need the point whatever to me I'm like just give me a nice give me a nice round number and I got it okay so what did you get with both of them together I think it looks like a 12 and a half what is M what seriously can you see it so do did you test it right away because what'll happen is um you got to test it right away because the pH meter will shift so that's so whenever you s look at her she's still stunned yes said to get your developer and your color and your color developer yeah I got it all ready so I think I think it had a moment do you think I should redo it okay yeah like when you have time you know to do it but um dip it in and read it right away so if you have like a sometimes because it has like like a cream color I have a paper towel nearby I dip it then tap it and then go so it sat for my first swab and my second swab yeah yeah so you want to read right away and the great thing is once you see it change like do this next one and watch the difference after it sat how that I need to do this yeah yeah yeah okay go ahead tell them yours because now I'm curious yeah mine was a nine a nine J N J was a nine yep so mine typically goes about the nine so it doesn't it doesn't me in the middle you can keep talking I'm just gonna okay okay so I don't hold you up no you're fine so this is the beauty of it we understand that the hair swells when we're adding What jewels negative charge all right so the problem or the challenge that we have is that the dwelling is harder than the swell so what do we need to do to de swell that hair do anybody have an idea use a lot of acidity yes Jade there you go we need to add more positive charges in that hair to help it Dell that is absolutely awesome does it happen on one time Alicia of low PH does that do it no we have to keep pouring it keep putting in positive charges so that we can get it down as much as possible what's a good um rule of thumb on how to do that now this is sometimes where it get tricky for me and let me tell you why because with all the nuances of the chemicals that I deal with right so for me um well let's say tends to not just for me okay so we should shampoo shampoo condition shampoo and condition condition condition to make sure flood the hair with shampoo and conditioner to help Dell that hair so is one shampoo enough no not at all three two to three and for for us like anybody that has our hair too a Le ala who deals with um very high high high high high pH Alicia how many for you three three but if Kelsey if you shampoo my hair three times that's a no no for me that's way too much but for Alicia because of how high her pH is and according to what I'm doing right right right technically like I said tends to we're dealing with the relaxer right so that means that it's suggested to as well but if I turned around according to what I do and I may add a color with permanent color with that relaxer then I turn around and I do three can I just say I quickly ran and got a product for my job that the owner created for that reason because they I always talk about negative charge but I never really what it meant and this is a flash conditioning treat treatment and I just tested it now the Swatch and this and it's at a three and I see why we all use the after color Services now I makes a lot more sense why I feel so much better afterwards so Jade let me throw this in there that's a three but so is your developer did your developer changed the pH of that hair color on the first go when you mixed your hair color with your developer did you take the pH all the way down to a balanced place or did it stay high in PH said high in PH correct that means one time with that will not take the hair all the way back down did you are you getting the connection here I didn't can you resay that so here's here's what Alicia was kind of walking you guys through is you had low ph and high pH when you mix those together the pH wound up still high because alkalinity is stronger than acid when it comes to hair color so if now you have your hair that you just colored with permanent color or lightener that's high and you put something like an acidic conditioner on it out of three it will not bring it all the way down so do you need to do it twice it's stages you got to do it in stages so what Alicia is telling you is water you rinse that hair out really well with water water is putting positive charge into the hair see if the hair is now here because you put hair color or lightning on it so here's the hair you guys with us can you see that okay take the out real quick oh yeah perfect tell me if you guys can see that okay or when you can there we go so now you've this is after you've colored the hair the hair is now here does this make sense you put water on that hair that was swollen get what did you just add to the hair now a positive charge now water's positive charge because the hair is here so you add a positive charge it will help Dell it just a teeny tiny bit then you shampoo it shampoo is here around here what did you just add to the hair more posi charge positive charge so now it's gonna another stage then you shampoo it again what' you just add more positive charge are you guys with us do you see the stages each stage is adding more positive charge to the hair and that's the only way you get to flood it one step at a time so what's the point of that L's product if water and two shampoos can do the same thing it no no it can't you're not done yet one yep yep you gotta then you gotta condition it but what you could do is you could shampoo shampoo condition treat because each time is adding more positive charge it is literally slowly dwelling each stage so what happens when you shampoo it the first permanent color and then you shampoo whatever you condition but then you got to do a gloss over that or you then bumping it back to yes so I would wait to condition until your gloss is done would you do two shampoos and then gloss or one shampoo I would do two shampoos or you do one shampoo gloss shampoo condition treat does this make sense everybody Jay do you how's that feel it makes sense in theory I'm just thinking for things like when you do like a teasy light and you have all that naughtiness that you have to kind of brush out you want to condition it and then and that's okay yeah totally but at the end of the day after you condition it that conditioner at that point is just to den not then you do what you normally would do shampoo shampoo condition or shampoo shampoo gloss or shampoo gloss shampoo condition treat so what happens whenever someone takes your foils out rinses you doesn't shampoo you and tones you okay well I know this one came up the other day so you haven't deswollen the hair the hair is still wide open does that make sense you guys listen here's here's what we got know the dwell happens in stages one time with an acidic treatment will not bring it all the way down and let me tell you how I know um well we know because of the science but two we I have a friend who is a cosmetic chemist who works in the lab and she actually did um testing on this they can test in the lab in ways we cannot so she lifted hair with lightener and got it this High she put at acidic treatment on it that lived down here and it only brought the hair down to an 8.74 you got you got it so we have to do it in stages basically just as much positive charge as you can to keep flooding it and flooding it it will help D it will help pull the dwell but you won't get it to that balanced place the first day it will take a day or two even with all that flooding so without the flooding they go home wash it the next day and like they could have early fading happening we wash it twice condition it and maybe treat it we usually tell them to try not to wash their hair for like 36 hours yeah that's great that's great now some people will say well you know if you do that you know the shampoo shampoo condition treat that you'll bring it all the way back down but I have spoken to a cosmetic chemist that said that's old school thinking and that it it doesn't fully bring it back down you still need to wait a day or two but at least we're getting them in the right direction all that to say listen one treatment will not bring them all the way back down we do need to know that I hope that's helpful all right how's everybody doing with that piece good all right so in order to doell flood that hair as much as you can positive charge that just means five minutes that the shampoo is not enough like you need the 15 you need time you know need time good nice all right listen we just covered pH we did it okay I have a question absolutely so like like Shades EQ you know you a musify with water after after it's processed is that considered a shampoo like that's considered a rinse it's it's here's the thing Dana that's a great question because again here comes the marketing so here's the story on that one that we've heard um because there is something in the hair that's very similar to the name that a shampoo has people assume that that is shampoo it is not shampoo surfactant have lots of different reasons for being in things it is not in that case a shampoo but marketing got a hold of it and said hey it has shampoo in it and the canas were like no and marketing went so people thought you didn't have to shampoo it anytime there's oxidation you need the shampoo to stop the oxidation we talking about I've never used Shades so it some people think that's a shampoo they think the shampoo is in it because it Suds up when you like mulfy it and there's marketing that went out years ago but anytime you mix something that has oxidation oxygen you're putting in the hair you need to shampoo it so you're stopping oxidation otherwise you don't stop it we use Shades at my salon and we're taught to never emulsify that it just ruins the deposit and just not it shouldn't be bubbling up it can but not supposed to let it do that yeah whether that's true or not I don't know but I will tell you this at the end of the day do we need to shampoo and acidic Demi the answer is yes yes you do yep longevity you start breaking down the die that you actually put in there because the oxidation still going you know and real fast where does shampoo live on the scale now I'm sorry so it depends on the shampoo shampoos can range from four to six four to eight now here's the thing about shampoo too shampoo will not affect the swelling of the hair like our chemicals will because our chemicals have alkalizing agents in it the shampoos don't so the when shampoo starts to affect the swell is around a nine when you get to a nine then the shampoo will start to swell which is interesting because UND do goo is at a nine because it's used to help you start to get that hair swollen open so you can color remove so if anybody has ever used Malibu's undo goo out of nine it's there to be a helper in color removal so we don't worry as much about the pH of the shampoo um as we do with the products like our chemicals but conditioners tend to be lower two to four depending on the type the ones for blondes tend to be lower higher positive charge because the hair is now lower on the pH scale from all that damage so they're going to put more positive charge in those conditioners for blondes so hopefully this stuff starts to make in sense right you're like oh so like redkin makes a acidic what I think it's like a postc color shampoo yes conditioner like is that that's great considered lots of positive charge because it's low on the pH scale yeah that's a great way to flood the hair okay yeah um is this helpful you guys awesome awesome all right let's do this let's take a break I think our brains deserve it you've worked so hard let's take breaka will you close this section out for us and then we're gonna come back and we're gonna talk about the lift yes so give me a word one word that will help us close out this section and we're all going to say it together together okay positive positive all right at the count of three let's all say positive and then we're going to go on a five minute break one two three [Music] POS at five

um so so far we have covered the fiber the composition and all the patterns and textures and the way they are the same and different and then we jumped into melanin so we can understand when we&#39;re looking at somebody&#39;s natural level what we&#39;re looking at you know how much how much melanin do I have and what&#39;s the balance going on here um and specifically we want to look out for warmth because that&#39;s the Nemesis right everything else is fine it&#39;s the the warmth so now we talk we&#39;re gonna talk a little bit about the bonds because when we break hair down we always said we&#39;re going for the melanin but we can&#39;t avoid breaking down the protein so we want to understand how that protein breaks down so we&#39;re aware of what we&#39;re doing right so this right here is one big one protein molecule when there&#39;s billions in the hair now Dana does this ever like get wild to you because you see like nursing cross over into hair that&#39;s got to be like so cool and wild for you at the same time um I have a couple of friends that are chemistry and biology teachers and they love hearing me talk about what we share because they&#39;re like that&#39;s what we talk about you know which is kind of cool it&#39;s so similar the crossover it&#39;s it&#39;s crazy to me sometimes yeah I bet you&#39;re like wow that&#39;s so wild right um now when we talk about the protein you remember how we said in the beginning Valerie always says the hair is um biologically dead but chemically alive it&#39;s chemically alive specifically in the middle of this protein molecule where all these side bonds are that&#39;s where the chemical aliveness tends to happen the most for us so we&#39;re going to focus on those bonds what they are and how they break so we&#39;re aware of how we affect the hair okay now when it comes to side bonds there&#39;s three main side bonds that we deal with in the hair do you guys remember what they are it&#39;s okay if you don&#39;t what do you do you any Amino so amino acids are these little balls on the side that connect together to create these long chains called polypeptides okay so that&#39;s where the amino acids fit on the side and each amino acid is slightly different and the thing that makes it different is these little things hanging off the side called the side chains side chain plus side chain connect to create a side Bond okay so these three in the middle we have three we have a hydrogen we have a and we have a disulfide bond also known as The sulfur Bond so there&#39;s three main bonds that we deal with salt hydrogen and dulfi now they&#39;re going to fall into one or two families they&#39;re either going to be a physical Bond or a chemical bond one or the other now a physical bond is a bond that will pull apart but can come back together so comes back together chemical is different that sucker is strong you you got to break it with intention so out of these three let&#39;s put them in either a physical category or chemical so we know what we&#39;re dealing with here so hydrogen is it physical or chemical what do you think chemical it&#39;s actually physical so um the hydrogen will pull apart but it can come back together it&#39;s not permanent chemicals permanent physicals not so hydrogen is a physical there&#39;s a one more that&#39;s a physical which one do you think it is a salt you got it Jade the salt Bond they also call the salt B Bond ionic and ionic just means it has a charge either positive or negative okay so then we have the the the one we only have one that&#39;s in the chemical family and it&#39;s called disulfide yep so salt and hydrogen and disulfide you got it so these are per not permanent and this one has that permanence to it so let&#39;s talk about how they break hydrogen what pulls the hydrogen bond apart and then can pull it back together what do you think there&#39;s two things water water yes Dana&#39;s like no pressure I&#39;m the nurse I&#39;m supposed to know right no pressure yes it&#39;s water and heat so you think about it you shampoo somebody at the shampoo bowl you broke hydrogen bonds you blew her dry the hydrogen bonds came back together in that new shape you created so we deal with hydrogen bonds all the time when we style hair two strand twist roller sets flat iron blow dries anytime we change the shape of the hair but then as soon as you wet it it goes right back that&#39;s hydrogen bonds we&#39;re messing with okay it changes the shape not permanent then we have the salt Bond the salt Bond breaks a little bit different so the salt Bond remember we said it was ionic positive and negative so a salt Bond will break with a change in positive and negative charge so we want to understand the salt Bond let&#39;s do this let&#39;s go back to kindergarten shall we you guys don&#39;t mind doing that every now and then do you I like feeling like a little kid sometimes all right let&#39;s talk about how um charges work and then we&#39;ll go to the ionic bond the salt Bond and kind of figure out how that breaks okay okay now if I have a positive and negative charge what&#39;s going to happen is it going to come together or is it going to repel together yes Paula Abdul told us opposites ATT trct right watch this did you see that I didn&#39;t I mean the attraction is so strong right but what happens if we have same charge and same charge push apart yes repel push apart in our world we call that swell so write that down in our world repel equals swell so watch what happens when I put these two together look at that it won&#39;t even come oh oh oh that&#39;s no fair because that&#39;s the other charge hold on look at that it&#39;s like running away repelling come here come here it&#39;s not going to happen right so Opposites Attract and same charges repel one another so what the heck does that have to do with the salt Bond watch this so in the salt bond that charge right there is positive so the salt bonds have these very weak easy to let go of positive charges if I come to this hair fiber with a negative charge Watch What Happens I&#39;m gonna come in with a negative charge in my product it&#39;s going to pull that positive charge which then leaves a negative behind negative is going to start to repel negative in the hair and guess what&#39;s going to happen to the hair swell it&#39;s going to start to repel itself and swell exactly so how do you keep that super simple if I put negative charge into the hair the hair starts to repel within itself do you guys follow if I put a little bit of charge in there that&#39;s negative it&#39;ll repel a little bit and swell a little bit if I put a lot of negative charge in there guess what&#39;s going to happen swells a lot swells a lot exactly so negative charge will swell the hair fiber it&#39;s the opposite when I add positive charge in there positive charge will actually help constrict it that&#39;s like conditioner versus like um developer yeah we&#39;re g to talk about where that negative and positive charge comes from but yes Jade absolutely so we&#39;ll talk about where it comes from but just so you know um salt Bond Breaks by the positive and negative charge adding and taking away positive and negative charge so it can go away and come back together is everybody with us on why that&#39;s temporary the the disulfide is different the chemical bond a chemical bond has to break with intention so it has to break with chemical chemical bonds break chemical bonds chemical chemical reactions break chemical bonds that&#39;s better okay now if you think about the bonds they&#39;re they have a purpose in the hair the disulfide bond in particular is um it holds the 3D structure of the hair together it&#39;s like foundational beams in the hair think about like the game of D Jenga you start pulling off those chemical bonds right and the hair starts to weaken but is the D Jenga game gonna fall down in the beginning when we start taking like one or two is it gonna fall down no no but at the end of the D Jenga game how is everybody feeling like don&#39;t shake the table and everyone&#39;s like this and freaking out like tense right because if you know if you take one more that whole freaking house is falling down right it&#39;s the same thing with hair when we do chemical processes on the hair there&#39;s no way you&#39;re going to avoid breaking down the chemical bond it&#39;s going to break it&#39;s a byproduct of what we do so that&#39;s not the issue the issue is don&#39;t break too many don&#39;t make the house fall does that make sense all right so what do we break it with three main chemical reactions we use first one oxidation oxidation is lightener hair color some removers anything that you mix your product with a developer that has oxygen we throw oxygen into the hair and it breaks that oxygen breaks that th sulfide Bond bam creates something new syic acid so it&#39;s breaking and making something new so oxidation lightener hair color anything you&#39;re mixing with that hydrogen peroxide you&#39;re throwing an oxygen into the hair breaks D sulfide is that good you got oxidation second one reduction reduction is perm reduction is tho relaxers reduction is some color removers you know the stinky ones that smell like sulfur that&#39;s reduction uh let&#39;s see I think that&#39;s pretty much reduction okay so what is reduction reduction is simply this they take a hydrogen and they put it in the hair the hydrogen acts like a door stop it&#39;s like hold my beer and the disulfide bond slide you put the something in there like a doorstep now it can slide you take the hydrogen out now the disulfide bonds will reconnect with whatever is on the other side sometimes there&#39;s another disulfide and sometimes there&#39;s not so it&#39;s going to break them not as intensely as oxidation but it will still break them CPR has anyone ever used Malibu CPR that&#39;s a reducer it&#39;s just a very weak one so we break it by reduction the break is not the same it&#39;s not as powerfully strong oxidation is the strongest then you have something called lonization Jade this is where your question comes in lonization is hydroxide relaxers it comes in and it literally breaks off one of these sulfur and leaves one hanging and that&#39;s called the what is it called lanthionine bond is that did I say that right Alicia lanthionine um so so Jade when you come in with a relaxer you&#39;re going to break it like this and leave this guy hanging reduction you break it and it makes something um oxidation you break it and it goes and makes something called staic acid reduction you come in and it slides take the hydrogen out and come back and meet up with whatever&#39;s on the other side so those are the three main ways we break that dulite Bond I think that pretty much covers all of our chemical stuff got any others that we might use I think that Alicia did we miss any no we didn&#39;t yeah does the same thing happen with like chlorine like pool water does it change the bond of the hair a little bit or no no I don&#39;t think it&#39;s the same kind of reaction there are more than that those kind of reactions happening but those are the ones we do with our chemicals does that make sense so if we know we&#39;re GNA break the dulfi bond no matter what we do right so our job is to break as little as possible so how could we do our job by creating color change or shape change that&#39;s permanent without creating too much damage I bet we could come up with some ideas like if we were coloring or lightening hair what could we do to keep that damage as low as possible what are some things we could do okay so yes low oxidate low low like low volume right I heard that I heard bonders bonders are like little buffers it&#39;s not going to prevent but it can help buffer it a little bit is that like when people add conditioner and stuff to their ratios no conditioner kind of brings PH down a little bit so it&#39;s not the same um bonders have different ingredients in them that help buffer some of that sometimes they do take the PH down it just depends on the bonder there&#39;s three different kinds so you could do that what about um the way that we apply it no overlap right um and here&#39;s a great rule of th to give you an idea of like the breakage so first application of permanent color we break 10% of those disulfides one application of permanent color one application of a high lift is about 15% and then one application of a lightener are you guys ready for this what do you guys thinking could be 70 you&#39;re gonna feel so much better when I tell you this then it&#39;s about about 20 does that feel better yeah but it is the most aggressive right that we do which is really interesting because um some of the older stylists that have been doing hair a long time they know some of the stuff and they watch the younger stylists come in with bonders and they&#39;re literally on the floor like heart beating like palpitations because they know and some of the younger stylists aren&#39;t always taught what&#39;s happening in terms of how much bonds are breaking or they grew up in an environment where bonders were always there and so their Paradigm is a little different so you&#39;ll see some of these older stylists like having panic attacks Le is that true or no true you know because they just they know they grew up in a time where they&#39;re in the hair world where there was no bonder or conversation happening and that&#39;s to cut you off that&#39;s where I learned some of my tricks of the trade from before bunders came out they were able to guide me on the what to do if I wanted to do two different type of chemicals according to the pH on that type of hair on my texture type of hair yeah because they tell you do not mix lonization with oxidation because they don&#39;t play well together which is why Alicia said in the beginning they always said to her you can&#39;t do anything but change like the shape or use a semi-permanent because if you do relaxer you can&#39;t mess with this now Alicia does do both but she&#39;s been trained very well and how to do them so it&#39;s not that we would never advise anybody to go and do both that hasn&#39;t gotten the training at all is that like the same as a Brazilian blowout that&#39;s I was just gonna say because people at my Sal the salon ey workout they do and don&#39;t I might have it mixed up but they color it first and then they do the blowout second okay so there&#39;s a couple of different things so Brazilian blowout um it&#39;s the one that you put the product in and you&#39;re flat ironing it right that&#39;s a different product than the Japanese straightener okay so the Japanese straightener is more like this chemically but the Brazilian blowout it&#39;s like taking them a cast and putting it on each individual hair strand and that cast will eventually break off slowly so that&#39;s not the same kind of inward chemical change as a Japanese straightener does that make sense yeah so um that&#39;s not the same thing that&#39;s why you can do both but it will because of the Heat and the way that they have that the chemical that they apply it will break down the color that was put in there yeah so does this help you guys to know how bonds break yeah yeah it&#39;s and just to understand what&#39;s going on some of the stuff they taught in hair school but sometimes they didn&#39;t and sometimes even if they taught it you didn&#39;t know you needed to know it but now you need to know it right and now you&#39;re like oh okay this makes sense right all right so um any more any questions about that Alicia let&#39;s close this section out and then I think um let&#39;s see how just repeat the three that you said ear the light the high lift lightener and the permanent color what the percentages were you got it so first application of permanent is about 10% okay first application of high lift is about 15 and then the first application of lightener is about 20 again timing texture volume of developer will all adjust those factors but this is just kind of a baseline yeah which why that&#39;s why it&#39;s so important not to overlap like if you&#39;re doing lightener ex exactly exactly or like if you see people do wet Balayage and I see that the hair is already at like a level nine I&#39;m just like because hair is the weakest when the bonds are broken so you have broken bonds and then came in with the highest thing possible and people think it&#39;s gentler it&#39;s actually the opposite right so if it dry hair is dry the bond the hydrogen bonds aren&#39;t broken you wet the hair you broke the bonds you already immediately went in with broken bonds and then you went and then you you know so it&#39;s it&#39;s interesting to see what goes on on um online versus knowing the chemistry side and you&#39;re like whoa whoa whoa they always on Instagram it was diluted it was gentler in the hair I&#39;ve always hear that which is hard because this is where Jade where you&#39;re saying I hear stuff but then I hear opposite stuff so what&#39;s gonna H and that&#39;s going to happen all the time when you ground yourself in the stuff that you&#39;re learning when the opposite stuff comes in because you understand why it won&#39;t shake you but when you don&#39;t understand why then you get shaken because you&#39;re like wait is that right is that not right so getting yourself grounded in that chemistry you see stuff you just know what to ignore because you&#39;re like yep that&#39;s not right and I&#39;ll I promise you this I don&#39;t care how old or how young that person is sometimes you look at that person you go oh they&#39;re so old they&#39;ve been in the industry a long time they must know but I want you to think about how much you learned in hair school just know that they came from the same situation so somewhere along the line they&#39;re trying to pick up what pieces that they can pick up and sometimes they pick up pieces that aren&#39;t accurate so I have a quick question about the overlap obviously I know you&#39;re not supposed to do it but but um say you have someone come in and they have like three inches of regrowth their mid strand is lightened but it&#39;s kind of they didn&#39;t let it lift high enough and then our ends are like white they&#39;re where they need to be would you go in with like a a 20 volume to get if say they&#39;re level seven naturally so you go in with the 20 volume at the regrowth and then like a seven volume at the midst strand just to kind of break that a little bit yeah we&#39;re not saying not overlap we&#39;re saying if you have to overlap be as gentle as you can okay but you still have a job to do yeah so you have to figure out the thing is about choices knowing what&#39;s going on so you can choose better right so if you know what&#39;s going on you&#39;re going to choose maybe that five or that seven or 10 volume rather than 20 because now you know it&#39;s happening but when don&#39;t know what&#39;s happening you just go go for the 20 you know like you just your choices are different okay when you know versus when you don&#39;t know so we&#39;re not saying don&#39;t overlap we&#39;re just saying be cautious when you&#39;re doing things knowing what&#39;s going on okay that&#39;s all cool awesome all right let&#39;s close this little piece out um Alicia what you got for us you want some process pause yeah you guys you guys want a process pause just to make sure we kind of grasp what we got process pause just means she&#39;s going to ask us some questions and we&#39;ll just answer her so the questions are going to basically guide us like did we capture what we just talked about or do we need to kind of re rehash the section yeah that&#39;s all that super simple you guys I I feel like Dana was like huh wait that&#39;s our verbiage that we use process pause let&#39;s pause and process okay you guys so all right so out of the five things that the hair is composed of what two main things break down while lifting out of the five what are we breaking down protein and pigment absolutely you got it you got it okay so why does knowing the starting tone matters starting tone like warm or cool natural level and starting tone why does the tone versus melanin reviewing everything from before like everything now yeah I was a little confused I&#39;m like this is we just went over bonds it&#39;s a you guys are nailing it you&#39;re nailing it yes you are you are I promise so Julie why do we need to know our starting timeone matters oh Jay just told us J oh you nailed it Jade oh knowing the you melon and the fail melon in the hair exactly because we could have a warmer underlying pigment as well which right Jay my bad I didn&#39;t hear you at first I think I toned out for a second second my bad I thought Julie said um all right next one what bonds chemically break hydrogen bom chemically break yes um the dword uhhuh uhuh I bom Y and the last one overall and what happens if we break two men the house falls down come on all fall down yeah are your elasticity like this uhuh and there&#39;s no return sometimes I take pasta and I go ex exactly but we&#39;re not damaging hair that much are we hopefully no no no no no we don&#39;t want to break that okay you guys doing great you killing it you got this all right let&#39;s go into pH do you guys need a break or do you want to just dive into pH and then take a break you tell me dive in dive in okay we&#39;re gonna keep pH simple don&#39;t worry okay but the pH is the beginning of starting to color change okay so this is where color change is going to start to kick in you guys ready for like some color change stuff chemistry all right so pH is it important to what we do do we need it yes yes what are like why why do we need it what does it help us do it helps kind of measure acidic and alkaline like where that lives on that scale yeah because we know that we got to get inside here to get the melanin right so somehow we got to swell this sucker open so we have access pH is our ability to start swelling this sucker open so we have access to where the Mel is okay so pH is the thing that&#39;s going to help us create color change it&#39;s also the thing that&#39;s going to help our Chemicals React so it&#39;s going to help the chemicals go and it&#39;s going to help us get inside where the melanin lives so it&#39;s a big deal right now it&#39;s um it&#39;s a scale and we&#39;re measuring things because scales measure things right what are we measuring what does pH measure the AL and acidity is that what we&#39;re is that what it yeah yeah you just shout out what you think I love it Kelsey yes it&#39;s measuring the alkalinity the acidity and pH stands for potential hydrogen or the power of hydrogen so what is that that hydrogen is an ion and it&#39;s positive now what&#39;s interesting in the chemistry World they know that if we&#39;re measuring this potential hydrogen this positive charge we actually are also measuring this one o which is negative that pH scale measures the balance between how much positive charge and how much negative charge our products are holding so your developer what&#39;s the balance of that positive and negative in your developer a hair tube of hair color your lightener it&#39;s measuring that balance that&#39;s what that pH is okay now when we look at the scale how do we read this scale how do we read it well at zero that positive is the highest so anytime we&#39;re at zero the high that positive charge is high but as you move towards the opposite side it gets low so super high over here which they call that side what just what you said Kelsey acidic where the positive charge is high as it heads towards this other side it gets lower now it&#39;s the opposite with these negative ions the hydroxide when you&#39;re at zero they&#39;re the lowest and as you move towards the opposite side they go higher you guys see what&#39;s happening here so on this side the positive is high negative is low but it&#39;s actually the opposite over here over here here the negative is high the positive is low and then they have this thing in the middle right here and they call it neutral what do you think neutral means medium they balance yeah okay perfect they the positive and negative charge are imbalance they&#39;re equal so at seven on that pH scale they&#39;re both equal so if I&#39;m at seven where they&#39;re equal and I go to eight somebody&#39;s winning which side is winning the alkaline the alkaline negative exactly so on the alkaline side the negative is winning but if I go let&#39;s say I&#39;m at seven where they&#39;re equal and I go to a four now who&#39;s winning the positive side cic the positive side is winning exactly now um here&#39;s what&#39;s interesting watch this if I am at a a three and I move to a five what just increased positive or negative negative negative but Jade does this matter that I&#39;m still on the acidic side yeah or no yes no it doesn&#39;t matter you&#39;re right Jade I don&#39;t care where you are on the scale if you&#39;re moving in the direction of alkalinity your your negative charge is increasing so you are correct even though I&#39;m on the acidic side if I go from three to a five the negative is increasing so anytime you move in this direction no matter where you are on the scale the negative increases does this make sense you guys so is that saying that change is technically happening even if you&#39;re moving a little bit over to one side or the other side right the balance is changing something is increasing so anytime you move in this direction towards alkaline no matter where you are on the scale the negative is increasing but if I&#39;m here so let&#39;s get rid of this if I&#39;m at 11 and I move to another n what just increased then positive positive anytime I move in this direction the positive increases I don&#39;t care where you are on the scale does this make sense that makes sense but the part that I&#39;m kind of like and maybe I don&#39;t need to think about this is when you have the pink one and you were at the zero and you went down and then the blue at the red side you know and then you went up what was that about so here&#39;s what the negative is when you&#39;re at zero the negative is very low so if I start to move this way the negative is increasing okay okay got it so at the end of the day all you have to remember is this if I&#39;m moving towards alkaline no matter where you are on the scale negative is increasing if I move towards the acidic side no matter where you are on the scale the positive is increasing can that&#39;s a question absolutely with hair is there like a certain point on the scale where where it&#39;s just either open or closed you know what I mean like if you&#39;re under like a six it&#39;s just definitely closed whereas you once once you pass the six it&#39;s definitely open or I wish it was that easy okay but it&#39;s not exactly that easy um but here&#39;s what we&#39;ll do let&#39;s talk about where hair lives on the scale and then what affects the hair and then it&#39;ll give us an idea of what&#39;s going on okay so hair hair lives at about a four and a half on the scale okay have you heard that before everybody okay this is hair&#39;s balance point and this is a Natural Healthy hairs balance point and what that means is if you put a pH on that healthy hair that lives at about a four and a half it&#39;s not going to swell or constrict it okay but if I start to put anything on the hair that lives above it that means I&#39;m adding negative charge anytime I go above hair and I&#39;m moving towards the alkaline side negative charges increasing if I add negative to hair remember what we said about magnets negative and negative it will swell swell so anytime I put something on the hair that lives above the four and a half it will swell the further away I go the more negative charge I put on there the more it will expand well exactly now the opposite is true if I am at a four and a half on the scale where hair&#39;s neutral point is and I put something that&#39;s below that hair that means I&#39;m adding positive charge to the hair if I add positive charge to the hair guess what it does constricts it constricts it it pulls it close it hardens and constricts all right so is everybody clear so far on that all right so let&#39;s start talking about the the products that we put on here if I put water on here now if the water is pure water you guys with me on that if it&#39;s pure water pure water lives about here on the pH scale add a seven if I put a seven on the hair what charge did I add to the hair positive or negative negative charge and what does negative charge do it swells the yeah so if I put water on hair what am I doing to the hair swelling it swelling swelling it for two reasons hydrogen bonds swell and salt bonds swell guys with me so just water swells the hair what happens if I put a acidic Demi on the hair where do we think this lives on the scale take a guess it&#39;s okay if it&#39;s not right just take a guess who cares on the positive side of the scale right you would think that right Jade because it says acidic but acidic Demis tend to live in this area here about a six and a seven so if I put an acidic Demi on hair what is it doing to hair nothing really Welling it just it so go by the chemistry what happens if I put something on hair that lives above it on the pH scale what did I just add to it what charge negative charge and what does negative charge do to hair swells swells swells it so if I put an acidic Demi on hair that lives at about a six or seven in the pH scale what is it doing to the hair swelling the hair swelling the hair what happens if the wet the hair is swollen already and if the hair is wet it&#39;s already here and then you&#39;re putting an acidic Demi on it like a glaze right it&#39;s not swelling it anymore it&#39;s already there okay okay but what we need to know is acidic demise will it seal a cuticle no no it cannot I Jade I feel like you&#39;re like processing what in the wood yeah I feel like I I heard the opposite of you know that City will steal it and do add a shine whatever whatever all these different things and now it&#39;s like it&#39;s not doing that okay yes so Jade I know this is the part that&#39;s frustrating because you&#39;re working through marketing do you understand our business is not number one science second marketing our business is marketing first science second are you with me me okay if you know the science then you&#39;ll understand what&#39;s going on so we&#39;re just going to teach you the science and then you&#39;re going to have to work through all the marketing yay the difference between like so an alkaline Demi would yes swell it more than acidic yes Dana and tell me why why would an alkaline Demi swell it more where do we think the um the pH is on an alkaline Demi is it more or less than an acidic more yes it&#39;s more so the pH of a demi alkaline everybody&#39;s is a little different so we&#39;re going to give you a range it&#39;s about an eight and a half so if I put an eight and a half on natural hair it is swelling the hair now do you see how how it&#39;s actually further away from the um hair than the acidic was so the alkaline Dem I actually adds more negative charge to the hair than the acidic so the further away you go the more negative charge there is is that makes sense everybody so the alkaline is swelling it more than the acidic simply because it&#39;s higher up on the pH scale so now when kind of like uh Jade was saying if someone comes in and you want to do an add-on service which might be marketing um and they&#39;re getting a haircut and they but they only get their hair colored every eight weeks and you say oh we should add some shine to this let&#39;s put a gloss on your hair is that you are adding shine because you&#39;re adding color and color gives reflection okay but you&#39;re not Sealing anything okay does that make sense now sometimes an acidic Demi has like ingredients that will stay behind after shampooing that will make the hair look flatter the cuticle look flatter but that&#39;s not sealing it does that make sense and so but it does deposit ingredients that will help that cuticle look and reflect shinier okay okay but is it swell or is it you know gluing it shut and sealing it no nothing seals it it&#39;s impossible unless you glue it because if I have a blowout and I go outside and it&#39;s humid out there guess what that humidity just did to your hair it swo your hydrogen bonds because the humidity is water in the air so you could put whatever you want on it and flat on it as much as you want but the environment is going to affect it so nothing Stills secure cuticle unless you glue it and nobody&#39;s gluing a cuticle but you can make it lay flatter which will make it appear shinier because of the way the light&#39;s reflecting okay so Jay are you doing okay I know your mind&#39;s like just think about everything I&#39;ve been told yeah all right so let&#39;s talk about permanent hair color is it higher on the pH scale than P the alkaline demine what do you think yeah yes yes it is it&#39;s about a nine and a half to a 10 just depends on the level and your brand level and brand so do you see we&#39;re going further and further the further away we go the more swell we have is everybody with us because it&#39;s got more negative charge where did it live again I&#39;m sorry permanent color um it&#39;s about a nine and a half just depends on your brand we&#39;re going to teach you how to find out all right what about lighteners where do you think they live higher or lower let&#39;s do that higher lower where do we think they live take a guess on the far right they live further out yes but they&#39;re not as far far as you think about a 10 10 and a half there&#39;s a reason for that we&#39;ll cover why they&#39;re not higher um there&#39;s other ingredients in there that&#39;s helping you break that that hair down so we&#39;ll talk about that in a little bit but but it is higher than your permanent now high lift is a little bit like in between the two so do you see how the thing that gets you the lightest is actually the furthest on the pH scale so here&#39;s what here&#39;s a really big thing we want to know the higher we go in PH the more we swell the hair which means the more possible lift so if I want the most amount of lift which one would I choose acidic Demi alkaline Demi permanent high lift or lightener lightener lightener lightener the one furthest away is going to give me the most lift if I want the least amount of lift or shift in the hair which would I choose acidic Demi you got it the closer it is in PH the less list you&#39;re going to get the further away the more you&#39;re G to get does that make sense awesome one more thing that&#39;s important about the pH the further away I go I know I&#39;m GNA swell the most yes which means the hair is wide open for D penetration so the higher the pH the deeper the Dy penetration the low lower the ph it&#39;s not open as much you won&#39;t get as much D penetration does this make sense that equals longevity the deeper it is the longer it lasts the less deep the less longevity so if I was going to use an acidic an alkaline Demi a permanent which would give me the most longevity permanent you got it because it goes in the deepest which would give me the least amount of longevity acidic Demi you got it you guys putting things together here you make choices based on those now if you have a client that likes to go back and forth like they want to be really light for summer and really dark and fall and they do that constantly even though acidic Demi doesn&#39;t last as long would that be the better way for them to go because you&#39;re going to be needing to break back through that color after Fall&#39;s over I do in the middle okay for me okay I&#39;d probably go to Demi alkaline because you want longevity you don&#39;t want it washing out in a week you know so but you don&#39;t want it to be as deep so I would personally go for the alkaline Demi okay great question all right you guys ready to talk about this one where does this one live Dana you look like you&#39;re going to fall asleep just focusing she&#39;s like don&#39;t call me out like that where do they live I think don&#39;t they live below seven that like defin J yes yes yes below seven and below the hair below four you got it and below the hair so they live about between a two and a half to a three so we&#39;ll just say three for like average so how many of you have heard if you want to um get you have resistant gray put a demo put a developer on it to pre soften okay so a developer is less um it&#39;s it&#39;s more acidic than hair so what is it doing to the hair is it swelling or constricting constricting yes I&#39;ve never done that ever I haven&#39;t either but um it&#39;s it&#39;s an old school they don&#39;t actually I hear that they&#39;re stopping to teach it but they would teach that it is actually constricting the hair but it is costic it&#39;s breaking the hair down so if I have an option of breaking the hair down and poking holes in it or swelling the hair with a hair color which would be healthier swelling the hair with the hair color you got it so if I were going to pre-o cten I would choose color oh color I would choose a high level of color that has high alkalinity um I&#39;ve heard washing the hair before applying permanent color too helps soften the cuticle is that true it does yes it does the hair right it does but if it dries that comes back together right okay but Alexa I&#39;m not talking to you it is so sensitive um but it does get rid of like um buildup and mineral so you&#39;re actually creating a clean canvas because your permanent only works so long so instead of battling clear you know build up and all that and then getting into the fiber it gets to go right in so you have a better coverage the hair&#39;s clean yeah um is this helpful to go through how this stuff affects your hair yeah it&#39;s going to shift the way we think right and and what we&#39;re choosing all right so let&#39;s talk about this one um Alicia I&#39;m GNA cover this one and then you guys you ask them the questions that we can kind of get them into some action go going getting into some action but all right where do we think relaxers are on the scale alkaline oh where are they at um let&#39;s do are they higher than permanent or lower um relax relaxers lower Alicia higher higher [Music] higher really high Alicia is this right right about a 9 to 14 14 according to the strength as we blow through the cuticle we like open It Wide Open right yes it&#39;s high it&#39;s like an earthquake hitting the hair and breaking that one one suur Bond it&#39;s like an earthquake hitting the hair when it&#39;s that high yeah and N Out and real quickly so like for the nine because there&#39;s three different strength you&#39;re going to have mild regular and resistant your resistant is going to be more towards your P your 14 and your mound is going to be more towards your nine and that&#39;s just the basic then you&#39;re dealing with calcium and all of that but yeah it&#39;s like needs to do a whole class on relax or just to kind of literally like yeah we don&#39;t need to get into that then because I was you had a question Jade yeah so when because I you know I&#39;ve had clients who either have had some kind of smoothing treatment of some kind now once that&#39;s done the hair has been physically altered to some degree from that chemical treatment so does your thinking of the pH along with that has to change when you&#39;re formulating color going forward because now it&#39;s like the hair was compromised in one way yes okay most definitely so what we talk about now is more for hair that&#39;s like kind of untouched or like you know um Virgin Hair I would assume versus like treated you know chemically treated so chemically treated hair is great I&#39;m going to give you just one thing so you can understand what happens when it&#39;s chemically treated just so you have an idea the actual neutral of pH then goes down because um it creates more of those H bonds that are easily broken so when hair is more damaged it gains more of this so it goes down now I need a whole hecka more just to bring it back back down to a neutral place so we don&#39;t want to get too crazy into all the pH but just understand this as the hair gets damaged it goes down and it needs more positive charge to bring it to a healthy place but try like it&#39;s good to have this information but it&#39;s not good to overwhelm yourself so much where you paralyze yourself so it&#39;s like take the information in how do we keep it simple the more the higher you go the more SW you&#39;re going to to create means you&#39;re going to lift more the higher you go the deeper the die okay that means it&#39;s going to be like it&#39;s going to be more long longevity okay if the hair is more damaged I actually need more positive charge to bring it back to a a better place keep those things simple so take it in and just go how do we simplify because otherwise you&#39;re literally going to be like on the floor overwhelmed with all this information and that&#39;s not the point the point is to know so you can move simply and quickly so it&#39;s like take it in and go how do we simplify is that cool can we do that and that way you don&#39;t feel overwhelmed good all right all right so let&#39;s chat about this one thing because this will answer questions like if the hair you know you lighten the hair and you put an acidic color on what happens so Alicia will you walk through some of that with what yeah okay so if I want a lot of lift well Julie let me ask this question real quick talk let&#39;s just do this one the um let&#39;s just go right into the question the activity question okay is that cool that way we because I think we kind of I covered the process pause already in that section so problem so you guys I want you to write this down okay you ready what happens to the pH when we mix the developer with the color where do you think it the pH will land don&#39;t say nothing write it down so when we mix our developer with our color where do you think the pH will [Music] land excitedly [Music] okay now we&#39;re get ready to do an activity so I need you guys after you have wrote that down to go get three bowls a cup even if you have to do it on four go get your developer your hair color and we asked you to get some litus paper this is our pH reader some people have used um a lipus pen and also some people unfortunately end up getting um ordering one for pool water if you got the one for pool water you don&#39;t you won&#39;t necessarily get the exact but you can always go back and get the lipus paper and do it again and what we&#39;re doing now is that we are getting ready to find out our pH level and what we use so what I need you to do is in one bowl put your developer in another Bowl put your color in another Bowl put the color with the developer together so three bowls cups of FS your developer your hair color and one bowl put your developer by itself in another Bowl put your hair color by itself huh does it matter the ratio no just you need just enough and then in the last bowl you&#39;re going to mix your hair color and your develop ER [Music] together all right so once you have that I want you to pull out a piece of your lipm paper when you pull out a piece of your lpmos paper you&#39;re going to dip your lpmos paper inside of your developer re you&#39;re going to dip it in and dip it out and if you have a piece of paper towel near you you can wipe it off immediately on the paper towel read it and see where your developer Al own lands on the pH so I never used these before am I like literally just pulling breaking it off like yes you are pulling it breaking it off taking your developer uh oh dipping it in side of it you&#39;re going to dip it in and dip it out wipe it off and then you&#39;re going to take it and put it against your reader we&#39;re just on the developer this time just the developer yes ma&#39;am okay and then once you see what your pH where your pH lands for your developer write that thing now get your color take your color put it in a separate Bowl okay or cup once you have that you take another piece of lpmos paper dip it in and out wipe off see where on the pH your color LS and write that down and because I can&#39;t find my other bow you know what a song pops in my head Alicia what party in the USA I don&#39;t know why that pocks my head but I was like it&#39;s a pH party us and don&#39;t forget you guys put it up to your litmus reader to your reader so you can be sure yes so then you write down where your pH landed for your color now in the last bowl read your pH scale for both there be exact measurements like should you like on the scale just enough to read just just it doesn&#39;t have to be exact and now not Julie I&#39;m not even gonna tell you how I&#39;m cheating I can&#39;t find my b okay hey I like purple purple gloves work great look I&#39;m just like okay so gotta do what you gotta do gotta do what you gotta do T you gotta improvise sometimes yes so then you turn around and you read that dip it in and dip it out wipe immediately M put it up against the pH scale wow this is ala&#39;s favorite section can you tell it favorite you see where it lands man when we first learned how to do this we literally tested everything we could get our hands on in the salon we&#39;re like and this and this yeah oh in the midst of this the reason for this activity of course is to see where I PA land right for each tool or chemical that we use separately and together and I know right now some of you are probably like shook I know I was Julie what about you when you first did yes when I first understood what was going on no when I first thought I didn&#39;t understand what was going on but I was like what does this mean but yes all right so I have a question right um we talked about the swelling so the D swell is harder than the swell so when if the dwell is harder than the swell you guys what do you think we have to do to Dell that hair bring that hair back down well can we do this really fasta can we like find out where their developer was and where their color was and then what happened when they met in the middle that way they can hear what each other&#39;s was okay and then we&#39;ll go yeah then we&#39;ll go there yeah yeah okay cool beans okay so you guys ready all right so um anybody like to share what was your pH for your developer three anybody a two mine I did not get the right litmus paper so I&#39;m gonna have to do it later yeah yeah yeah no worries that&#39;s cool mine was a four okay what brand did you guys have and what level developer did you use just to see if for some reason we have the same one and got different things I have um Sport scy and I have a seven volume I have coverline and I have a tin volume I have joy Co and I use 10 volume and I normally use Matrix so mine are always three and it doesn&#39;t do matter which volume so there&#39;s a range you guys see there&#39;s a range and it&#39;s very it&#39;s lower than [Music] hair so now that matters pH matters it matters so now what did you get for your color 10 I got eight got n mine&#39;s normally about a nine and a half 10 but they&#39;re hard to read the Habs on these things so you kind of have to you can get a pH reader if you want but to me those are a little bit of a pain in the butt this I don&#39;t feel like we need the point whatever to me I&#39;m like just give me a nice give me a nice round number and I got it okay so what did you get with both of them together I think it looks like a 12 and a half what is M what seriously can you see it so do did you test it right away because what&#39;ll happen is um you got to test it right away because the pH meter will shift so that&#39;s so whenever you s look at her she&#39;s still stunned yes said to get your developer and your color and your color developer yeah I got it all ready so I think I think it had a moment do you think I should redo it okay yeah like when you have time you know to do it but um dip it in and read it right away so if you have like a sometimes because it has like like a cream color I have a paper towel nearby I dip it then tap it and then go so it sat for my first swab and my second swab yeah yeah so you want to read right away and the great thing is once you see it change like do this next one and watch the difference after it sat how that I need to do this yeah yeah yeah okay go ahead tell them yours because now I&#39;m curious yeah mine was a nine a nine J N J was a nine yep so mine typically goes about the nine so it doesn&#39;t it doesn&#39;t me in the middle you can keep talking I&#39;m just gonna okay okay so I don&#39;t hold you up no you&#39;re fine so this is the beauty of it we understand that the hair swells when we&#39;re adding What jewels negative charge all right so the problem or the challenge that we have is that the dwelling is harder than the swell so what do we need to do to de swell that hair do anybody have an idea use a lot of acidity yes Jade there you go we need to add more positive charges in that hair to help it Dell that is absolutely awesome does it happen on one time Alicia of low PH does that do it no we have to keep pouring it keep putting in positive charges so that we can get it down as much as possible what&#39;s a good um rule of thumb on how to do that now this is sometimes where it get tricky for me and let me tell you why because with all the nuances of the chemicals that I deal with right so for me um well let&#39;s say tends to not just for me okay so we should shampoo shampoo condition shampoo and condition condition condition to make sure flood the hair with shampoo and conditioner to help Dell that hair so is one shampoo enough no not at all three two to three and for for us like anybody that has our hair too a Le ala who deals with um very high high high high high pH Alicia how many for you three three but if Kelsey if you shampoo my hair three times that&#39;s a no no for me that&#39;s way too much but for Alicia because of how high her pH is and according to what I&#39;m doing right right right technically like I said tends to we&#39;re dealing with the relaxer right so that means that it&#39;s suggested to as well but if I turned around according to what I do and I may add a color with permanent color with that relaxer then I turn around and I do three can I just say I quickly ran and got a product for my job that the owner created for that reason because they I always talk about negative charge but I never really what it meant and this is a flash conditioning treat treatment and I just tested it now the Swatch and this and it&#39;s at a three and I see why we all use the after color Services now I makes a lot more sense why I feel so much better afterwards so Jade let me throw this in there that&#39;s a three but so is your developer did your developer changed the pH of that hair color on the first go when you mixed your hair color with your developer did you take the pH all the way down to a balanced place or did it stay high in PH said high in PH correct that means one time with that will not take the hair all the way back down did you are you getting the connection here I didn&#39;t can you resay that so here&#39;s here&#39;s what Alicia was kind of walking you guys through is you had low ph and high pH when you mix those together the pH wound up still high because alkalinity is stronger than acid when it comes to hair color so if now you have your hair that you just colored with permanent color or lightener that&#39;s high and you put something like an acidic conditioner on it out of three it will not bring it all the way down so do you need to do it twice it&#39;s stages you got to do it in stages so what Alicia is telling you is water you rinse that hair out really well with water water is putting positive charge into the hair see if the hair is now here because you put hair color or lightning on it so here&#39;s the hair you guys with us can you see that okay take the out real quick oh yeah perfect tell me if you guys can see that okay or when you can there we go so now you&#39;ve this is after you&#39;ve colored the hair the hair is now here does this make sense you put water on that hair that was swollen get what did you just add to the hair now a positive charge now water&#39;s positive charge because the hair is here so you add a positive charge it will help Dell it just a teeny tiny bit then you shampoo it shampoo is here around here what did you just add to the hair more posi charge positive charge so now it&#39;s gonna another stage then you shampoo it again what&#39; you just add more positive charge are you guys with us do you see the stages each stage is adding more positive charge to the hair and that&#39;s the only way you get to flood it one step at a time so what&#39;s the point of that L&#39;s product if water and two shampoos can do the same thing it no no it can&#39;t you&#39;re not done yet one yep yep you gotta then you gotta condition it but what you could do is you could shampoo shampoo condition treat because each time is adding more positive charge it is literally slowly dwelling each stage so what happens when you shampoo it the first permanent color and then you shampoo whatever you condition but then you got to do a gloss over that or you then bumping it back to yes so I would wait to condition until your gloss is done would you do two shampoos and then gloss or one shampoo I would do two shampoos or you do one shampoo gloss shampoo condition treat does this make sense everybody Jay do you how&#39;s that feel it makes sense in theory I&#39;m just thinking for things like when you do like a teasy light and you have all that naughtiness that you have to kind of brush out you want to condition it and then and that&#39;s okay yeah totally but at the end of the day after you condition it that conditioner at that point is just to den not then you do what you normally would do shampoo shampoo condition or shampoo shampoo gloss or shampoo gloss shampoo condition treat so what happens whenever someone takes your foils out rinses you doesn&#39;t shampoo you and tones you okay well I know this one came up the other day so you haven&#39;t deswollen the hair the hair is still wide open does that make sense you guys listen here&#39;s here&#39;s what we got know the dwell happens in stages one time with an acidic treatment will not bring it all the way down and let me tell you how I know um well we know because of the science but two we I have a friend who is a cosmetic chemist who works in the lab and she actually did um testing on this they can test in the lab in ways we cannot so she lifted hair with lightener and got it this High she put at acidic treatment on it that lived down here and it only brought the hair down to an 8.74 you got you got it so we have to do it in stages basically just as much positive charge as you can to keep flooding it and flooding it it will help D it will help pull the dwell but you won&#39;t get it to that balanced place the first day it will take a day or two even with all that flooding so without the flooding they go home wash it the next day and like they could have early fading happening we wash it twice condition it and maybe treat it we usually tell them to try not to wash their hair for like 36 hours yeah that&#39;s great that&#39;s great now some people will say well you know if you do that you know the shampoo shampoo condition treat that you&#39;ll bring it all the way back down but I have spoken to a cosmetic chemist that said that&#39;s old school thinking and that it it doesn&#39;t fully bring it back down you still need to wait a day or two but at least we&#39;re getting them in the right direction all that to say listen one treatment will not bring them all the way back down we do need to know that I hope that&#39;s helpful all right how&#39;s everybody doing with that piece good all right so in order to doell flood that hair as much as you can positive charge that just means five minutes that the shampoo is not enough like you need the 15 you need time you know need time good nice all right listen we just covered pH we did it okay I have a question absolutely so like like Shades EQ you know you a musify with water after after it&#39;s processed is that considered a shampoo like that&#39;s considered a rinse it&#39;s it&#39;s here&#39;s the thing Dana that&#39;s a great question because again here comes the marketing so here&#39;s the story on that one that we&#39;ve heard um because there is something in the hair that&#39;s very similar to the name that a shampoo has people assume that that is shampoo it is not shampoo surfactant have lots of different reasons for being in things it is not in that case a shampoo but marketing got a hold of it and said hey it has shampoo in it and the canas were like no and marketing went so people thought you didn&#39;t have to shampoo it anytime there&#39;s oxidation you need the shampoo to stop the oxidation we talking about I&#39;ve never used Shades so it some people think that&#39;s a shampoo they think the shampoo is in it because it Suds up when you like mulfy it and there&#39;s marketing that went out years ago but anytime you mix something that has oxidation oxygen you&#39;re putting in the hair you need to shampoo it so you&#39;re stopping oxidation otherwise you don&#39;t stop it we use Shades at my salon and we&#39;re taught to never emulsify that it just ruins the deposit and just not it shouldn&#39;t be bubbling up it can but not supposed to let it do that yeah whether that&#39;s true or not I don&#39;t know but I will tell you this at the end of the day do we need to shampoo and acidic Demi the answer is yes yes you do yep longevity you start breaking down the die that you actually put in there because the oxidation still going you know and real fast where does shampoo live on the scale now I&#39;m sorry so it depends on the shampoo shampoos can range from four to six four to eight now here&#39;s the thing about shampoo too shampoo will not affect the swelling of the hair like our chemicals will because our chemicals have alkalizing agents in it the shampoos don&#39;t so the when shampoo starts to affect the swell is around a nine when you get to a nine then the shampoo will start to swell which is interesting because UND do goo is at a nine because it&#39;s used to help you start to get that hair swollen open so you can color remove so if anybody has ever used Malibu&#39;s undo goo out of nine it&#39;s there to be a helper in color removal so we don&#39;t worry as much about the pH of the shampoo um as we do with the products like our chemicals but conditioners tend to be lower two to four depending on the type the ones for blondes tend to be lower higher positive charge because the hair is now lower on the pH scale from all that damage so they&#39;re going to put more positive charge in those conditioners for blondes so hopefully this stuff starts to make in sense right you&#39;re like oh so like redkin makes a acidic what I think it&#39;s like a postc color shampoo yes conditioner like is that that&#39;s great considered lots of positive charge because it&#39;s low on the pH scale yeah that&#39;s a great way to flood the hair okay yeah um is this helpful you guys awesome awesome all right let&#39;s do this let&#39;s take a break I think our brains deserve it you&#39;ve worked so hard let&#39;s take breaka will you close this section out for us and then we&#39;re gonna come back and we&#39;re gonna talk about the lift yes so give me a word one word that will help us close out this section and we&#39;re all going to say it together together okay positive positive all right at the count of three let&#39;s all say positive and then we&#39;re going to go on a five minute break one two three [Music] POS at five

Transcript for:Lecture Notes on Hair Composition and Chemistry

Transcript for:
Lecture Notes on Hair Composition and Chemistry