hey there everybody so I wanted to go through perms and relaxers with you all because last week I had released earlier this week I had released a hair color a chemistry of your color video and it seemed to help a lot of people so today we're going to go through crimson relaxers the difference between them how it all works all that jazz so thank you for spending a quick 15 minutes with me maybe 20 depends on how quickly I talk but we're gonna get through this and hopefully it's gonna give you some insight as to how the chemistry works behind these two services alright so let's get to it um the first thing is Who am I so my name is Teresa muley I am an education consultant I have about 15 years of cosmetology teaching experience about 22 years in the actual industry though I have worked for all of the major brands I mean I shouldn't say all the matrix and redken and pivot points and all sorts of them and I'm pretty strong in my chemistry background so as my favorite stuff to teach it's my favorite thing to talk about I'm a hair stylist I'm a school leader I'm a consultants I'm a teacher I am a student at the University of Florida so I understand what y'all go through every single day and most of all I'm just a big ol science nerd I really really love science and so I love these kinds of platforms that I get to talk about it with you and really share some of my information with you ok so today we're going to learn first about the chemical process of a perm what's actually happening when we perm hair then and we're gonna talk about the process of a relaxer because while it's similar it is not actually the same thing and we're gonna talk about how to like and then of course we're gonna talk about how they are different because we're using or manipulating the same bonds but it's not exactly the same process and then we're gonna talk about why this matters to you because I think it's important that in any type of trade school environment we are teaching you things that you actually have to know not just a pressure state board but to actually use in the industry so what kind of talk about why this is so important okay so let's start with that why does it actually matter okay these two chemical reactions deal with the same proteins they behave differently we have to understand why they behave differently okay so ineffectively to manipulate the hair and without drinking it off which I know a lot of sales that do we have to know what we're doing inside of it so that's why this is so important and then remember I'm gonna be an estate board I don't care what stage you're in I don't care if you are in texas or Florida or Illinois this is gonna be an estate board for you so please understand it and even that I know too many stylists that don't really understand what they're doing inside that hair strand and so knowing that will help you prevent from breaking hair okay so let's get going both of these processes deal with a keratin protein okay so this might look a little familiar to you there's gonna be some types of illustration of this in your textbook of some sort but this is my own makeshift graphic design work which I am no good at so let's be clear these are not like professional images okay so your keratin protein of your hair is made up of amino acids there are 19 different amino acids we're not gonna go through all of those for time sake but if you're really interested do some research but your hair protein is made of amino acids the amino acids are actually connected by something called a peptide bond okay peptide bond is also known as an end bond and each row of those so you have a top row and on the bottom row is called a polypeptide chain well that's because there's many peptides poly means many when we think of polygamy right we think of many wives well um polypeptide means many peptide bonds so two polypeptide chains line up with each other and they start to create as keratin protein okay so again the peptide bond also knows an end bond because it's connecting the end of one amino acid to the end of the other amino acid all right those two polypeptide chains are actually connected by side bonds because again they're connecting side to side the two polypeptide chains three different types of side bonds first is hydrogen okay so hydrogen bond accounts for about a third of the hair strength it's kind of a weak bond because we break it literally every time we put any Ana Pete on the hair we've broken that hair okay so heat or water is gonna break it we break it every time we wash our hair and then when we blow-dried it into a new shape we reform it it's that simple okay so hydrogen bond tons of them and they're going to provide a third of the hair strength then we have a salt bond okay salt bond also a weak bond also accounting for a third of the hair strengthen it again because there's so many so a salt bond connects our sorry is broken by a change in pH so every time we wet the hair down we change the pH of there why is that the hair is at a pH of about 4.5 to 5.5 what is it a 7 shampoos can be anywhere from really to 6.5 to a 7.5 sometimes so the reality times higher than that so the reality of it is every time we wash the hair we break the salt buns okay so again and when we shampoo condition and blow-dry we've already broken and reform those two bonds right so that's common the third bond is what we really are dealing with in all of these chemical process services okay and it's a disulfide bond okay a disulfide bond can only be broken with chemicals it is not going to break on its own a disulfide bond is created because of the of the addition of a sulfur atom attached to some of the amino acids right disulfide means two sulfur's when we dissect something we cut it in two right so a disulfide bond is going to have amino acids that are connected by cell or with sulfur attached to them that's what makes it a day sulfide bond this is the important bond that we break okay yes again my graphic design work is fantastic okay so we're gonna go through the reduction process really quickly don't worry if you don't get at this first explanation I kind of displayed it in all of the steps that happen but then we're gonna go back through it with this keratin protein again and kind of walk through it again so I'm gonna go through it a couple different ways so hopefully one of those rays will stick for you okay so the reduction process this is how we perm here first we break salt and hydrogen bond it's very easy we wet the hair down we've broken it okay then we have to add hydrogen into the hair in some way this is in your perm solution this is that ingredient that you hate the word but you have to know first a board called ammonium thioglycolate okay that's where you find your hydrogen alright ammonia let's open the cuticle just like it doesn't hair color the file likely actually introduces the hydrogen so what had engine does is it actually pulls away that sulfur that we talked about remember some of those amino acids had sulfur attached to them so made them a disulfide bond when the hydrogen goes in and really likes those sulfur atoms so sulfur kind of like ditches disulfide and goes with the hydrogen and kind of just you know goes for a little vacation basically well without the disulfide there sorry without the sulfur there takes off my brakes there's nothing holding it together there's no reason for it to be there without those sulfur atoms okay so these are my brakes and now you have all three bronze broken so now you can actually reshape the hair into a new process right so again now we process the hair into this new shape so once we've done that we put the solution on we've let it sit with check for that escarole I'd never been to some familiar to everybody and we're seeing a nice strong wave pattern in the hair we now have to kind of reform it there reform it into its new position and the way we do that is we add oxygen into the hair this is in your neutralizer the main ingredient in perm neutralizer is hydrogen peroxide okay so we gotta add oxygen into the hair which actually pulls the hydrogen back out of the hair so how does that happen well think about it you've got these two hydrogen atoms that have attached themselves to the soup two sulfur atoms and then we put oxygen in there well what happens is that oxygen attracts those two hydrogen atoms and creates an h2o molecule what is h2o my friend to you well my friends it is water right so those molecules all join together and the actual molecules wash out of the hair as a water molecule okay so with nothing else to do sulfur goes back to those amino acids and disulfide rejoins itself now when I teach this in schools I have a whole story that goes along with it about Donny disulfide and the sulfur sisters and herring hydrogen and any of my students watching this are gonna be like oh my gosh I totally know about that she made me write a play about it I absolutely did okay so the thing about stay sulfide bonds is it's just like a bad breakup that gets back together right when you and somebody break up and then you get back together afterwards especially if one of you has cheated you're back together but you're never quite as strong okay so it's the same thing here so while disulfide broke up and sulfur broke up you pieces when they got back together they're there but they're not as strong as they used to be okay so that's important to remember because when we know that we're breaking these disulfide bonds in the hair and we continue to put chemicals on top of that we have to understand that it's already fragile it's not in the best shape that it could be so we have to be really careful all right so let's go through it again but this time with the keratin protein in front of us okay so the first thing we did was we actually got rid of the hydrogen and the salt molecule or on bonds which were those side bonds when we wet the hair down all we had to do was what the hair and those two have broken okay so now we have to get rid of the sulfur alright so the way we're gonna get rid of the sulfur is we are going to add in hydrogen atoms right so the hydrogen atoms are gonna come and they're gonna collect the sulfur that comes in the ammonium fog light light that gets rid of our disulfide borås right we've let it process we saw in the escarole we're happy with it we gotta put it all back together now okay so now what we're gonna do is we're gonna introduce that oxygen into the hair and the oxygen is gonna pull that hydrogen back which eventually is going to allow us and all of these bonds these might not be shouldn't harder to repair themselves okay so think about that once hydrogen goes everything starts to shift back into place and our bonds find home again alright so you can see it's not that it's a difficult process but you do have to understand a couple key things about this right reduction happens when we introduce hydrogen into the hair the hydrogen pulls away the sulfur atoms disulfide breaks and now we can reshape things oxidation is when we reharden that hair we put the bonds back together oxidation involves giving oxygen right oxidation oxygen we put oxygen into the hair which collects the hydrogen makes a water molecule and says bye-bye and leaves that hair okay so now the disulfide bond goes back together right does that make you sense so again you can watch us a couple times if you have questions please reach out to me I am I will always answer comments and questions and anything you have to the best of my ability I do have a pretty strong background in science and I don't know the answer I'll find it for you okay so that's the perm process so relaxers a little bit different we're still breaking the bonds including the various disulfide bonds but now we're using a process called lanthanum so forgive reduction forget oxidation now we're doing my own ionization soul and ionization involves removing that sulfur atom just like we did in the reduction process but in a very different way okay so Liam binarization occurs because of a change in pH so think about it what is the pH of a relaxer okay so your textbook will say anywhere from 11 to 14 all right the real answer is it's usually about a 13 a 14 a relaxer has a very very high pH remember the pH scale only goes to 14 all right so the leap in pH from a four point five to five point five all the way to a thirteen or fourteen literally causes an earthquake in there hmm so that that little picture right there absolutely that's what's happening we're literally shaking they're so hard so sulfur atom actually falls off that amino acid right so it's a little more dramatic it's a little more catastrophic to the hair which is why it's a little a little a lot more damaging but you need that strong chemical to break that strong strong ethnic hair okay so what we've done is I probably should have fixed this this creates Atlanta iodine bond for us alright so we no longer have a disulfide bond that actually turned into ileum 39 bond because now we actually lose a sulfur atom one of them goes away by hey it's gone okay so important to remember that we it's not that we remove all the sulfur we start knocking them off little by little from that earthquake okay so you can see the lanthanide bond actually the disulfide bond goes away and it becomes lanthanum from there do you see the difference it's only got the one sulfur atom not two sulfur atoms all right so we've broken the bond through the land ionization process blanth ionization was simply because of a change in pH right so we shook that sulfur atom off so how do I put this all back together we don't let that sink in we don't in the world of relaxers we left the hair remain broken [Music] so let's talk about what that really looks like right so you probably saying to normal Teresa we put neutralizing shampoo don't we put normalizing shampoo on it it's not usually neutralizing it can be but it's usually normalizing shampoo and no matter what it is all it's really trying to do is bring the pH back down closer to normal so that the hair doesn't continue to break okay so let's go through this with ladders all right so this is a representation of your keratin protein right your first ladder you put your first row lection on it and you've probably broken a couple of those disulfide bonds you know we may have some length iodine bonds in there now but we don't break everything we just break some of them with that first relaxer I'm not to get the hair about 80% straight if you remove more than 80% of the curl chances are you're breaking it off the head okay so you're never going to get 100% straight hair with a relaxer if you do it might be straight but it's also probably going to be on the floor for you okay so that's your first relaxer you have that letter right so then you do a second relaxer and you think you know what I'm gonna overlap it or you're sloppy or you rush for time you just throw it on there or maybe you're not quite sure what you're doing so you have that different lecture and then you wipe out a couple more of your disulfide bonds alright so you can still get up that ladder that protein still has a little integrity left to it but it doesn't seem like a very strong or safe ladder to climb to me I mean I'm no expert I don't think well you know you can see judge for yourself all right so the third relaxer right this is what we started with you once again are paying attention or your client says to you it's just not straight enough so you decide you're gonna overlap for a third time well what did we just do we took out the remaining disulfide bonds that hair is no longer on the head so if you see it relax your clients and their missing patches of hair it typically comes from actually overlapping their lecture over and over again a lot of people ask is it safe to put color or Lightner on relaxed hair it can be if you're very very careful with permanent color you can use a 10 or 20 volume remember the hydrogen peroxide in a developer is what's going to create that chaos for you but I will tell you that hydrogen it's not just going to target melanin it's gonna target everything in its path so if you have a really weak keratin protein and you are missing a third of your disulfide bonds and then you throw a light neuron there you're probably gonna be wrecking your peptide bonds everything you can so that's why we really really say you probably should not do that okay so a quick recap about what we just talked about both palms and relaxers are achieved through the breaking of the disulfide bond right ponds use hydrogen found in ammonium thioglycolate to pull away the sulfur and break the bond relaxers use a drastic change in pH to knock the sulfur atom off the prime processes are reduction which is breaking it we're reducing it into pieces and oxidation which puts it all back together it's like the glue relaxers use a process called the implyin ization which is that drastic change in the pH which shakes the sulphur atom off okay in the prime process we do rebuild that disulfide bond but in the relaxer process we do not okay we just let it stay broken okay so that's what I have for you hopefully that helped if you liked this video please please please follow me on youtube right just go ahead and hit you know all over subscribe or whatever that thing is find me on my social media well most of what I talk about is education based I'm happy to create videos for just about anything these have been helpful so I'm probably gonna create some more you have any topics you want to hear about please let me know but otherwise thank you so much for watching I appreciate it share share share and hope it helped have a great one guys [Music] you