Lecture on Irving Penn: Master of Fashion Photography

Introduction

• Irving Penn was a pivotal figure in fashion photography for Vogue.
  • Created 165 covers over 66 years.
• Born in 1917 in Plainfield, New Jersey to Russian Jewish parents.

Early Life and Education

• Studied at the Philadelphia Museum School of Industrial Art.
• Influenced by surrealist artists.
• Mentored by Alexi Brodovitch, famed art director of Harper's Bazaar.

Career Beginnings

• Worked as art director for Saks Fifth Avenue until 1941.
• Traveled to Mexico with artistic intentions but pivoted to photography using his Rolleiflex camera.
• Joined Vogue under art director Alexander Liberman.

Vogue Career Highlights

• First Vogue cover in October 1943.
• Known for minimalistic style, democratizing subjects.
• Developed unique portrait style using confined spaces.
  • Notable portraits include Georgia O'Keefe and Truman Capote.
• Significant work in the 1940s and 50s with model Lisa Fonssagrives.

Techniques and Style

• Known for minimalist and surrealist influences.
• Developed a technique to strip away artifice from subjects.
• Used confined spaces to capture subjects' personalities.
• Platinum and Palladium printing process for enhanced depth and tone.

Notable Work and Series

• Small Trades: Photographed working-class individuals in Paris, London, New York.
• Portraits in Peru: Captured indigenous Peruvians, reflecting realistic yet humble depictions.
• Series on flowers for Vogue’s Christmas editions.

Collaborations

• Worked with top designers like Christian Dior and Cristóbal Balenciaga.
• Collaborated with Issey Miyake for years without ever meeting in person.

Later Career

• Partnered with fashion editor Phyllis Posnick.
• Experienced resurgence in boldness in his work.
• Continued influence on new designers and photographers.

Legacy

• Seen as a singular presence in photography.
• His work remains influential, leaving a lasting impact on visual arts.

Notable Quotes and Stories

• Diana Vreeland’s quote on style and class.
• John Galliano’s admiration for Penn’s influence.
• Stories of specific photoshoots and the creative process behind them.

Conclusion

• Irving Penn’s legacy in photography is marked by his unique vision, style, and contribution to fashion photography.
• His work is celebrated for its artistic integrity and remains immortal in visual arts history.