over this in-between period of time so we talked about Byzantium and now we have to look at Europe before we go back to Europe so we have to understand what was happening in Europe while we were over in Byzantium so this will set the pace for Chapter seven gothic and sort of set the tone even though some of this is actually in the beginning of chapter seven in your canvas but I'm gonna go over it here because I think it'll help make Chapter seven a little bit easier to understand so while Constantine and everything's happening in Byzantium Rome is being torn apart by these tribes that are migrating in and that whole territory of Europe is now completely fractured so barbarian period is the 5th through the 8th centuries when these tribes are moving in Carolingian is the period of settlement and Romanesque is the expansion and you'll see this in chapter 7 as well as in the overview of chapter 7 but I'll go over this with you now so the periods here fit through the eighth centuries is barbarian marked by the tribes invading Rome and Western Europe Carolingian is 9th and 10th marked by the Crusades and a guy named Charlemagne who comes into power Romanesque is 11th and 12th marked by the continuing Crusades and the rise of power of the Catholic Church so let's talk about barbarian civilizations of the ancient world continued to decay that's Greece that's a trivia that's Egypt and these cultures of tribes that are coming in from the northern territories come in these tribes are coming from the areas today of Scandinavia Germany Norway Ireland Scotland Iceland Russia just all those regions from the north they're gonna migrate in and bring with them their own culture and their own fashion ideas their own skills and manufacturing things so this is what it looks like so right now in this period Europe is being divided by these tribes that are taking over the Visigoths the Franks that Celts the Vandals the Huns you name it they are moving in and they're bringing in their own ideas for a long time this is all warfare so for these three centuries these tribes are warring four regions control of these different regions this is just the migration into what is England today these Germanic tribes at trial that traveled by sea to get to England and trying to take over so you've got the Saxons the Jutes the angles the Franks the Huns all these groups of people that are travelling into the regions to take over land in territory so they are a warring group a warring culture they did not speak Latin or Greek and so the Romans called them barbarians that's the only reason for the term but these people will influence the cultures of Europe following this period the Franks were Germanic the Celts from the British Isles where Scotland and Ireland are they were known as the Bryson's later Brighton's later Britons thus our matches come from the areas of Russia the Balkans moldovia and they're going to bring with them their own ideas we see these really interesting artifacts that survived these beautiful long ships by the Vikings which are replicated in a lot of movies today the economy they're basically hunters and farmers they are polytheistic the Christians will call them pagans eventually many of them will adopt Christian faith in the ideas of the pagans they made human and animal sacrifices you'll see this represented in lots of different movies today depicting these people in not such a nice way interestingly enough though their gods are the names of our days of the week Tuesday Wednesday Thursday Friday Saturday is named after Saturn Sunday named after the Sun and Monday named after the moon to understand the period European society is broken there is no government the church will assume the government in the 9th century pretty much these monasteries were developed and I think who showed you that in the early part of the Byzantine period for people to go pray and study and basically to gain a sanctuary from the war that's happening all around them costume is pretty simple you got to think about it they were moving from place to place they're nomadic they're fighting they're trying to create farms so simple tunics and mantels but we do see the church as its power is trying to expand still wearing what we saw in Byzantium so still silk still find our fabrications general features here fashion is pretty much a one size fits all for both men and women so the trousers in the beginning like big giant pants with fabric wrapped around them or leather girdles leg windings are basically strips of fabric that are wrapped wrapped around the foot and up the leg to bind the leg close because if you're plowing a field or traveling that floppy leg is going to get in the way so they're kind of like a ballet shoe that wraps up the leg one of the things that is interesting I think is that from 1500 to 400 AD the garments that were created in that period of time survived most of this is in the northern areas of Denmark where there were excavations for this stuff as well as parts of northern England but the garments were not degraded so these are made of wool if you think about the hair on the top of your head it's gonna disintegrate and it didn't just preserve the fabric itself it preserved the hair on the tops of these people's heads and so they're kind of fascinating I did put one image in canvas for you you might go back and check out so here we see a lot of simple tunics trousers nothing that's really constructed in any creative way but really simplistic garments are all made of wool or of leather so you see this tunic on the top made of leather and the one on the bottom made of an interesting weird felted wool they were all made in the natural color of the sheep so they didn't spend time dyeing their garments so you're not gonna really see color as a part of this costume style interesting weaving techniques were discovered though because they layered their garments the outer garments were often made of a looser weave than the one underneath to allow the body to breathe but still say warm we also see a looping of fabric on the surface kind of like your bath towels your terry cloth so if you get out of the shower and you put a bath towel on that towel keeps you warm because the loop of the fabric on the surface is holding your body heat in so we see this used and like hats in some capes and those kinds of things so here's a cap with a terry cloth tight weave that's designed to keep the head warm dates back to about 1400 1200 BC that's a long time for a wool cap to survive here's a cloak that we see this symmetrical lapel for the first time and we see the introduction of a frog closure these are not actual frogs or buttons from the period but just to give you an example so frog is an item that goes into a loop of thread or yarn and it really is the first buttons in costume an actual pair of trousers with feet that could be taken on and off with the Frog closure kind of like if you think of infants onesies where you could take them off with buttons or snaps beautiful metalwork was found so silver but buckles down below is a gold buckle here you see a Viking fibula really interesting artwork here's a skirt so the yarns of the skirt basically are attached on the top and the bottom bands so this would not just be worn like this you would have a skirt or a tunic underneath maybe two maybe three and then this would be wrapped over as a but warmer or a bum warmer because think about if you ride on a horse your butt's going to get cold you have a lot of circulation so this skirt would be wrapped around for warmth here you can see the separates so tunics and skirts not just dresses for women and you can see that the sleeve is wide on the one garment and that would be so that the sleeve could be wrapped around the hands to keep them warm no gloves were introduced yet you can see the crudeness of the construction so it's not about making clothes because they love fashion it's purely about keeping the body warm so it's definitely a functional kind of fashion here some general terms that you need to be paying attention to here colonel it's just a general term for a tunic if you look at Irish or Scottish writing it might be spelled que IR T le this one is the French spelling cirtl or curl a too nice is an under tunic if you remember back we talked about Tanika and tema so now it becomes a - nice and then it'll become a chemise it's like a slip but it's really an under tunic poza are leg coverings and mantels various capes and wraps that were used foot coverings be made of simple strips of cloth or leather maybe on the bottom of the foot and then the cloth fabric wrapped around the foot we do see fringe introduced this really comes from Byzantium which really gets its influence from Persia we do see big bronze belts kind of like a weight lifters belt with a lot of ornamentation here you can see various artifacts that are sketched that we found and here's some actual pieces of jewelry so the middle image is a ring you can see a bracelet on the top you can see this stiff bracelet on the bottom the gold one and on the lower right is something called a torque so it kind of is like that stiff bracelet but it's worn on the neck so we twist it around the neck the the softer the gold the higher the karat come out so here we're looking at 28 karat gold that could be twisted and manipulated these are shoes made of felted wool interesting ornamentation on these and you'll kind of see this detail as we go into chapter 7 some sketches of what some of these Germanic tribes look like in the third third and fourth century a more sketches you can see the large belts and notice that the strings hanging down are holding swords or whatever so the way they travel they would just tie their stuff to their belts to carry their goods more images a little bit crude looking here here is an image of the Goths that were captured in Constantinople and 400 AD you can see the long beards you can see the tunics you can see the trousers again fashion was not about you know fashion here it's really about surviving so you might recognize the tribes here vissa goths ostrogoths this where we get the term gothic 4 chapter seven by the fifth through the twelfth centuries a lot of what was being written in Byzantium is now circulating through Europe so in the Byzantine period they started to document images and they drew them and so these books with images are known as illuminated manuscripts and this is where we get a lot of information about costume because not much survived here's another example of an illuminated manuscript and probably the most famous is the book of kells which really introduces calligraphy and these beautiful letters I don't know if you noticed the letter P that opens the book in the ELLs here's another illuminated manuscript with the P and the Bible so these beautiful scripted words with calligraphy are what you'll see in the 9th and 10th centuries we now are into what's called the Carolingian period so now we have the settlement in two towns we have agriculture we have people plowing fields the franks will adopt a plough and you can plow a field faster seed a field faster if you will and so nutrition is gonna be better because there's gonna be more food available guy named Charlemagne comes into power his grandfather was Charles Martel we don't really care about him for this class if you read history 10 but Charlemagne is very important because he's going to use something called a feudal system to organize society so he needs to build an army so he Awards Knights land Knights were called vassals in the period of time and in exchange they serve his military the Knights then plow fields and build homes on the land but they need people to work their farms for them so they bring peasants in and give them protection in exchange for this so the peasants worked the land they live on the farms they're fed well etc he initiates this feudal system that gives each person rights in exchange for their duties meaning that if the knight performed his military duty he got land if the peasant performed their duties they were given protection and a house on the land of the night so this was the structure of society remember that its rights and duties that is very key moving forward the church used the guise of the Crusades which were supposedly peaceful Christian missions which they were not to spread Christianity but it really was to expand the territory of Rome the Crusades they were sent out on missions the Turks had gained control of the Holy Land and so pope urban ii sends the crusades out to gain control of the holy land but it's pretty corrupt here it's pretty grotesque if we were in class i would tell you more stories about this but for now you can just understand that this is not a peaceful christian mission by any means it's about control and money and power one thing that is introduced because of the crusades is something called chainmail it is an armor made of chain-link and so be very difficult for an arm for arrow to pierce that chain-link so the chain length or twisting of it would deflect the arrows as we see this structure become more refined we do see those who could afford it having trousers cut to their leg contours so as we move into chapter 7 the fit of your clothes is going to indicate your wealth or position costume is very colorful the term party color means many colors so you might see a man wearing red hose purple and gold shoes blue Mantle's with a yellow tunic that idea of color blocking you know what fibula are and Clabby are we still see that continuing here changes of woman's costume the layering of clothing here is going to be marked by a tunic that is slightly shorter than the one underneath sleeves that are wider to show the one underneath this garment that you see here is called AB Leo sometimes it's spelled bli a UD or bli UT it's the same thing it is a gown that's fitted in the torso with very wide sleeves sleeves then can be wrapped around the hands to keep them alone so this is what it looks like you can see the fit in the torso with a simple girdle that's twisted around eventually it'll kind of look like a corseted piece and then the very wide sleeves the outer tunic slightly shorter than the one underneath showing that she can afford to have two beautiful tunics and then of course underneath this is her chemise or her to her Tunica intima a headrail is just fabric wrapped around the head for warmth we see this in many different cultures in these times and then here you can see what Carolyn G and fashion looks like and various aspects of it you can see the influence up here at by Saxon costume of the Vikings with the horns and Frankish ladies so these would be women of a higher social position with more embellishment on their costume Romanesque is the return to the ideals of the Roman government so how can we emperors use the old Roman Constitution as a way to build a new Empire take over land and it really was with the feudal system but what starts to happen here is that more of those peasants are saying I don't want to work the field I want to go make something and make my own money and this starts to fracture that feudal system money comes into circulation and barter declined so bartering is I'll do this for you if you fix my car sort of thing a trade of services well now with money money spends the same and this levels the playing field for the different social classes we see east-west trade from the Crusades so you're gonna see a lot of influence from Asia from Oriental regions from Persia from areas of the Far East Near East one thing we do see are that tunics get more fitted the skirts are full because they're riding horses are they're walking so they need that movement but higher quality fabric comes in so silk is now blended with wool wool keeps you warm but the silk is lighter weight and more luxurious we do see the fit of clothes achieved through lacing so that garment that I showed you the the girdle then would be laced around the body and eventually the lacing czar in the back creating a smooth torso in the front evidence of costume in the Romanesque comes from two things those illuminated manuscripts we just talked about but also something called the Bayeux Tapestry so it is a massive tapestry 231 feet long and it was embroidered by the women in England England is not England yet but that region who were depicting the violence of the Norman Conquest so people were banned from writing what was going on so instead women embroider panels to show the stories what you're seeing here is images of the Crusader camps and the Knights that would go pillage the villages take from stuff from people and this is a very violent period of time there are many stories that talk about the violence here how these Knights initiate a law called first night first rites so a woman on her wedding night would be given or taken I should say by the Knights who would have the right to her before her husband and it was a way to ask that include cleanse the region if you've seen the movie Braveheart the opening scene shows this it's pretty violent as we get into Romanesque costume gets a little more refined tunics or shorter sleeves are long skirt of a tunic for a man and a woman are more full because of riding horses we see interesting lacing or closures at the neck of their tunics many skirts of the tunics for men were split on the side so he could ride a horse for dignitaries upper-class we see longer tunics trousers here are loose and then they get more fitted we do see various click capes and cloaks as well we see chainmail spears swords kite-shaped shields cone-shaped helmets Baldrick's remember those sword belts so military costume is going to be more invested in because war becomes a principle industry moving through this entire unit so as women gained wealth the sleeves of their blues got longer and longer and longer showing that they were not doing any manual labor well they get so ridiculously long that they had to knot the sleeve so the more knots you had on your sleeve more money you had or the higher your social position and women literally walked with their hands out from their shoulders because they didn't want their sleeves to drag on the floor same turns here curdles still the term that's used as just a generic term here so you can see here she's got the Blio with the knotted sleeves and then the headrail wrapped around her head underneath the throat some women instead of wrapping fabric around wrapped a piece of fabric under their throat and they tied it at the top of their head or pinned it and then put a veil on it on their head those pieces of fabric under the throat or under the chin are called wimple x' so if you think about a nun's habit she's got a white wimple covering her throat and then she's got the black veil over it if you've ever seen sound of music in the beginning the nuns are singing that song something about Maria in the song they talk about her wimple because Maria never wore the head wear that the nuns wore in the Catholic Church so next time you see the movie listen for the song so here you can see where it evolves into a nun's habit in the church and this is the blue oh it is recognizable because the sleeves and here you can see variations on that interesting incense burner we can definitely see the influence from the Byzantine region here and the chainmail and the cone shaped helmets notice the nose guard down the helmet that comes in at about eleven hundred or so chainmail caps you can just imagine how brutal that would be taking that off your head and a modern-day chainmail bra ok so that takes us through this period and then we will move into Chapter seven next