what's going on YouTube Stephen is Salonga here and in today's video we're going to be making over this mannequin and creating what I'm going to call the perfect blended layered haircut meaning I'm not gonna cut it super short it's not gonna be super long but I'm gonna create a beautiful flowing layered haircut it may be kind of like an 80s layered haircut or something but you know I focused so many of my haircuts on you know with women's haircuts when it comes to layering but you know maybe you're a guy who wants to grow his hair longer it's just not laying right and this video is going to be great for you know whether you're a barber learning you wanting to learn more about mens haircutting great for a stylist somebody in school or if you're a client just you know trying to understand a haircut of how it could work properly for you so I'm gonna wash this head and we'll be right back to get started so before we start this haircut I also want let you guys know that I do have haircutting combs now that I am selling that are available on my website I basically have been spending a lot of money on my combs over the years and I said you know what this is way too ridiculous I want to find something that I can actually sell that I use that is like a lot cheaper so basically these are plastic but they're a higher-quality plastic they're not garbage and I have them in two colors because if you have maybe you know lighter hair you want some contrast also to kind of match my brand color of the red and white and the white ones work great especially if you're working on darker hair as you can see you know it just allows for a better contrast so they are available you can see by the card here that I'm I'm posting a pop also you can check it out in my description at the end of the video I do have them on sale right now and it's free shipping so definitely take advantage of the offer and check these out the first thing I suggest is to find the natural parting if you're unsure of where the natural parting is or not sure how to do it you know what I like to do is line the comb up right on the top of the nose here and just draw like you're drawing a line straight back right on the top of the head like so and once you do that you can then split it into four quadrants and what I mean by four quadrants is we're separating the entire head to make it easy so basically finding the top of the head alright which is right here you lay the comb flat on the head and whoever lays flat is where the top of the head is where it's the flattest so usually that's right around this area which is right behind the ear and these four quadrants what it's simply doing it's nothing complicated it's just separating the front from the back and again this is what we call the division point so if you are in beauty school right now you're probably gonna be hearing that word those words the vision point but it's literally just dividing okay it's dividing the front and the back because what you do need to realize is that this is treated completely differently than the back when it comes to the haircut all right and that's that's really the only thing it's very very helpful to be honest with you because all you're doing is separating it and while you're cutting I am going to tell you it's extremely helpful to have a clearer vision of where you're cutting so what I like to do now not every guy is going to have their hair as long as this coming in to you but it's better to be prepared and knowledgeable than not right so what I like to do is basically you can hold this up out of the way and you can clip it out of the way you can do really do whatever you want but what I'm going to do is I'm going to establish the length and all I'm doing is laying my combs straight down and I'm going to cut straight across that's it flip around on the other side and cut straight across and basically folks we have our base right through here we have our base next thing what I'm going to do is I'm going to bring this down again and do the same thing throughout the entire back of the head right make it very very simple there's the guy from underneath and cut straight across flip the scissors around and cut straight across bring this all down before you know it the entire haircut is gonna be you know halfway done calming us all straight again you can use your fingers if you want to kind of lock it in but sometimes when you give when you cut the hair with no tension that's when it's actually the straightest okay when you cut the hair with no tension whatsoever if you want to use the comb like so you can almost like as a ruler to cut straight across like that but you know a lot of times if you do end up using the comb or your fingers it will start to create some sort of elevated shape or something so now we're going to work up into the sides and through the top to create again we're creating our foundation so always make sure the head is straight and now the finger positioning really will dictate the angle so the more you point your fingers up the more of an angle you're gonna create like so by rotating the more you keep your fingers straight down like this that's going to prevent an angle this way and it's gonna be a lot more straight so what I want to do and I'm using the fine teeth of the comb here because I do want to have this nice and solid here is I'm going to extend my fingers and or angle my fingers up pretty significantly because I do want to create a bit of an angle coming up right in through here okay move any hair out of the way that actually is going to be in the way of cutting and I'm sorry if I got it in the way right there but here we go we're going to cut downwards this way and here in the very very very front again this really depends on how short you want it but here's the length and I'm doing which is right about the bridge of the nose right here and we're cutting this all on an angle going back down like this so if you can see here we've created a perfectly angled shape going down and through here now we're going to do the same thing on the other side right now I haven't moved at all I'm I'm staying in the same position my body position and that's essential - you don't have to be jumping around doing acrobat moves you know or hanging from the ceiling I mean you can literally just stay in one spot - this entire haircut you know which I think which goes to show you know how a lot of people out there are doing all these these freakish handstands to cut hair it doesn't you don't have to do that you know you can just literally stand in one spot keep your body in a good position and not hurt yourself all right so there we are youth on the other side what I like to do is just stand in front do a little check right here to make sure we're balanced make sure we run worst even even-steven unfortunately right now we're uneven Steven I have to cut the side a little bit shorter but that's the whole point of you know not everybody's perfect if you get it in one one shot then good for you now let's let's see what we got here okay look at this if you look at this you could almost say wow this this is actually a good haircut any guy can leave I mean even a woman can leave anyone can leave with a hair cut like this that's why the base is so important what would happen if we didn't layer this and we didn't create any sort of movement well that's the thing it wouldn't have a lot of movement you know will it look good the only reason it will look good is because we got this shorter and we've got some flowing through here but the problem is is that it's not you know it's not gonna have a lot of movement up and through here it may be very very heavy so again will it work sure to work is it something that you want I don't know in my experience I've noticed sometimes people complain about their hair being too heavy right and not having a lot of movements but there are guys who you know don't want a lot of movement so it really depends alright so now let's create some layers and we'll do kind of a medium length layer in through here now the key is with layers which is really really important wherever you hold this up right if I cut it right here it's gonna fall into the back so you got it and you also don't want to cut it shorter than the front piece right in through here as well right so we've got this right through here and then all this and this has that connect into here so you don't want to go too short and you don't wanna go super long so a good in-between balance would be about right here right which is I'd say about seven inches or so six or seven inches right at the top here and that first piece in the back that is where I'm starting the layers so I'm gonna take a horizontal section right here and this is how I'm doing the entire back of the head we're gonna comb this all straight up to match again I'm using the fine teeth of the comb there's my guide I'm going to cut straight across as you can see right in through here this is what it looks like from the front right there it is so I'm gonna let that drop down I'm gonna take a section here on the other side on the back again combing it straight up and there's my guide keeping the arm as parallel as you possibly can and through here and then there we have it so once we have that done we're going to comb this all down and now we're going to actually create some blending so when we cut that piece here's where the layers going to start right around here and we're now going to comb this straight out from the head there's the guide right there there's what we're gonna cut and we're going to extend this all the way down to the bottom the reason I'm going to extend this all the way down to the bottom is because I want to have a little bit more movement down through here so a lot of times people will talk about oh the hair flips a lot the hair moves if you don't want the hair to flip at all and you don't want to have those pieces kind of flipping out or showing those layers then definitely either don't lip layer it at all or you want to keep that first layer that you cut a lot longer a lot longer almost like you're just you know skimming the top because again this will travel all the way down through here creating that weight so for this haircut I do want to create some movement alright we go once again calming us straight out and all we're doing now is just connecting right we're simply just connecting the dots and putting everything together with the layers to make sure the entire back has some movement to it so once we get right here behind the the division point as you can see I'm combing this all straight back behind the ear this way I'm not extending my body outwards beyond that because I want to maintain the weight in through here which I'll remove when we get through here right you're gonna thank me later trust me all right so now we're gonna pick back up to do the other side and there's the guide and we're gonna cut straight down you can pick up a piece from the other side if you want but make sure that you go all the way down to the very very bottom you're not cutting the length here because that's already established you're just you're just basically cutting what's on top of it all right there's the guy there and once you the thing with men's haircutting or even just haircutting in general once you get the pattern down and once you understand what you're doing and you don't complicate it alright there's there's a lot of hair cutters out there who make this almost impossible to understand with the Greens of elevation with different body position with different days with different debt with 18 different sections 45 different clips you know for me that's cool if you want to do that and put on a great show that's awesome but you know a lot of times those haircuts look good for about 10 minutes right but when you have all those crazy disconnects and all these pieces that are separated and this and that the hair doesn't grow out super well it grows out it grows out with like gaps in it grows out with holes in it grows out with the haircut being unbalanced to read the way I cut hair and again I'm not saying to be the best and I'm not discrediting anyone's abilities to cut hair in a very systematic way I just feel that with my experience I like to cut hair as simple simplistic as possible so it'll grow out good it'll be effective I'll be able to get a duck get the job done efficiently and it'll also be very very well balanced that's how I want to cut here all right so as you can see I'm keeping everything very very simple now even though it looks simple you can still you know mess this up and that's why this this method of me cutting helps simplify everything all right so now what I'm doing is I'm cross-checking by combing everything straight out horizontally and all I'm doing is going throughout the back and I'm skimming off any pieces that may be a little unbalanced when I say unbalanced it's my way of saying longer you know and and again I've basically been in the same spot for like the entire haircut all right I have barely moved my body you know I do have to be careful in certain angles that I go in because of my back injury on my neck but even though if I didn't have that I'd still be able to stand in one spot so now what we're going to do is we're going to connect this part this is something that I do in literally every haircutting video that I do it's it's very very essential this part right in through here and very simple the best way to do it is just think that you're doing a mohawk section right down the middle right right down the middle that's the focus that's we're gonna connect everything because that later at some point you're gonna do the corners on the sides all right now that's done it's time to cut the top again we're in the middle but we're gonna cut the top horizontally now because we've already move on from the past we're looking ahead to the future and we're gonna cut everything straight up what's going to happen is as we get to the very very front like this area we're gonna see there's not a lot of hair to be cut honestly because that is why you know when we blended everything throughout the the foundation it was all basically pretty balanced which was very very important so that's what I'm saying a good foundation is important all right so the top is done and we've got the corners and the sides if you break the haircutting down that easily and that's simplistically it's going to be a lifesaver okay there's the corner and we're gonna bring it straight out and there we actually see some hair there that needs to come off because we haven't really done any layering and what this is going to do I mentioned the beginning of this haircut that this is you know a perfectly blended layered haircut what does that mean it means the entire haircut it's flowing with the in with like in itself it's got a seamless flow it's all completely connected and it's perfectly balanced that's really what that means so we're doing the corners and then the sides the sides are down and through here that's how I classify haircuts tops corner sides and then the back following this pattern will make life very very easy so sometimes people will have finer hair and what you need to be careful is to prevent from creating any huge gaps or holes or anything you may want to take a thicker section right a thicker section to kind of make it a bit more dense this way you can see all that weight and not get rid of it by accident all right what's important with the very look the sides down to here is that you do extend the haircut all the way down to the bottom here right if you leave these pieces disconnected from the layers again it's not going to go out how you want it to in some situations like I said and some hair cutters like to do these things to leave pieces out for whatever it is but again that's usually temporary and a lot of times I've noticed in my experience seeing these guys do this stuff or senior stylists do it it's because they're doing trying to create a specific look or an effect at that very moment and it works for a short amount of time but then the grow up process isn't always the best alright so once again guys if you're seeing I'm literally in the same spot right I'm not standing on my head I'm not hanging from the ceiling I'm not doing jumping jacks I'm literally just standing in the same exact spot that I've been in pretty much throughout the entire haircut which goes to prove something that you you know posture is everything body position is everything alright so once again we're just connecting the layers now we're here we are on the very very front and I'm combing back now on top of the section here we go just that little bit right there this haircut literally can be done if I wasn't talking I can have this haircut done enough I'd say about 20 minutes right 20 minutes if I didn't talk at all you know my thing is I'm a big talker so I like to communicate and also because I'm teaching a darn video so this part here what we're doing is we're just going to snip that little bit this is a this is to make sure that the entire top is perfectly blended again we're going for perfect layers and anything that you may see it's a little bit longer this is your chance to get rid of it and to make sure it's all even and this is where it's going to jump out at you this is where the hair will start talking to you say hey dude you missed you missed a section over here right this is the ideal time to do it all so this is why this comb comes in handy because it's a white color and you can actually see you can see the hair a little better and while you're combing it right gives a little more contrast alright so let's take a look what we got let's bring the mannequin head up a little bit and what I like to do is I'm going to run my fingers through the hair like this and just double-check everything let's bring it this way again I'm looking for even-steven here alright I think I'm a little longer on this side here so if you are a little longer on one side all you got to do is go back in and simply start to search throughout the haircut of what happened okay there it is right there I didn't I didn't take this far back enough into the side of the corner and this is where I was feeling the length of being a little bit longer okay it's all right there and let's check this here all right just a little bit not much but you have to feel for the area's right feel for the areas that are longer or like I said the hair will basically it'll be very obvious if you're pulling hair and it's a lot longer on one side go back to that area and fix it with haircutting once you're able to figure out how to fix a problem then that's really the difference between being you know a really really good hair cutter and kind of a mediocre alright if you're a client watching this and you're one of those dudes who basically likes to let your hair air-dry who wants to just you know not be bothered by it you got that perfect hair just flows right into place you can spray maybe some 25 spray of mine into it you can you know and then just let it air dry you know if your hair is a bit wavy any time you let the hair air dry it will form with a little bit more curl right as you can see it through here what do layers do all this stuff that I layered it will actually enhance the wave or enhance the crow because now you've got rid of all that weight into here which is allowing the hair to move as I mentioned before if you don't have any layers this will all lay flat like this and the hair will just be flat to the head that's it layers will actually create some movement and so now we can ply any sort of I'm actually testing out a new blow dry cream that I've been working on for the last month or two and I'm gonna run this through the hair and we're going to aired we're gonna blow dry this and I want to show you a few different techniques of what you can do but as you can see in through here the more we kind of scrunch this it's automatically bring out the wave and a lot of you guys want to know you know how do I get my hair to look wavy how do I get to have some texture to it well setting it with something like this you know kind of set it and forget it let it air dry and it'll dry with some texture and some wave to it now if you don't want to have any wave to it and you want the hair to be a little more on the smoother and more tame side I'm gonna use just my hands for this the key is when you blow dry hair like this you do not want to shake it and rattle it up like this a lot of times people dry their hair they're going all over the place all you're doing is creating a hot mess a frizz Bahl you're creating a mess you don't want to do that you want to actually tame the hair like this and almost like you're kind of lightly pulling on the hair and you're smoothing it with your hands right so let's let's check it out alright let's talk about the style now and as you can see I mean this looks pretty good no matter what you know all because of the way we cut it right so let's talk about if you want to have your hair all coming down forward okay there's gonna be some guys out there that want kind of like a haircut like this where it just Falls a little bit in the face and you just kind of have some hair coming down like that looks kind of really really cool all right there's one look right there alright another look is if you want to have that kind of really feathered layered look where it's all going back showing off the layers let's turn the mannequin this way everything is going back and it's all working in to the bottom and through here so again a very very nice beautifully executed haircut down through here and it all flows down to the bottom right same thing on the other side good side angle and through here it all flows back works into the shape down and through here and there we have it it really depends on how you want to wear it right you want to go over to the side this way alright you can do a side parting total side parting like that you can flip it around you know on the other side if you want to do a sorry parting on this way if you want to get you know a little more volume into the front here right like that you can do that you can go right down the middle kind of like how we cut it and have it almost like a feathered hair cut coming down like this you know which is also really really cool I mean you really can do a lot with it with a good haircut you really have a lot of options alright guys thank you so much for watching and again please check out my hair cutting homes that are now for sale a link is in the description of where you can get them basically on my website and I'm doing a sale right now so if you are looking for you know a professional type tool to comb your hair this is what I use okay so thank you guys so much for watching let me know in the comments below if you enjoyed this video don't forget to Like comment and subscribe click the bell and I'll see you next time for more videos with a salon guy